Lancashire > Wilton 1 >
 
Virgin's Dilemma** HVS 5a

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<< Great Slab
 
999 >>
[The over-looked 'Virgin's Dilemma' should not be missed by any HVS/E1 leader. , 2 kb]20m. A rare problem (a Wilton slab - what else?). Climb the centre of the lower slab to the sandy break then continue up its centre passing a peg to enter the shallow groove spliting the upper face. © ROCKFAX
FA. Hank Pasquill 1967

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List.

Photo: The over-looked 'Virgin's Dilemma' should not be missed by any HVS/E1 leader. © Liam Pos
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 47 logbooks, and on 7 wishlists.

clean onsight, the left side of the chimney was slightly wet, but apart from that it was a good, albeit hard climb (maybe E1 ??)
GeorgeClimbs - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/14

NickstaDB - 2nd O/S - Sep/13

dchovs - TR - 03/Mar/13

dchovs - TR - 27/Feb/13

In the rain... A0 Firstly i sliped off the start and ended up on my arse. Then pulled on the peg at the top.. very wet tho
efrance24234 - 2nd dog - 26/Jun/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/12

Bold - but good gear when you get it and lovely technical climbing and good positions for what is quite a short route.
Swotson - Lead O/S - 31/May/12 with Tony Madden

Hidden - 2nd - 22/May/12

pchaplin - Lead - 01/Apr/12

Nice boulder problem at the start, after that a very creative climb with tiny footholds. Take micro nuts.
MichaelGallimore - 2nd β - 01/Apr/12 with Pete

2nded/top-roped first after Jim gave up on this and finished up 999. Quite good hard (one 5b move? from the jug to enter the chimney) sustained climbing, had to dig a few of the placements out with a nut key, plus one low side runner and still felt E1
Graeme Hammond - Lead rpt - 25/Mar/12 with Jim

Hmmm..not sure how this got graded HVS. Hard move into the chimney above very poor gear. Tried to lead but got frustrated and scooted off up 999. Definitely E1 and hard E1 at that.
Jim Slater - 2nd O/S - 25/Mar/12 with Graeme

Hidden - Lead O/S - Mar/12

Hidden - 2012

John Postlethwaite - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/11 with liam

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Jul/11

kk_cheung - TR - 13/Jul/11

Mike_Bottom - TR O/S - 27/Jun/11

wheelo - TR - 24/May/11 with chris g

This is never HVS 5a, much harder in my view.
ChrisGreen - TR O/S - 24/May/11 with John W

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 19/Mar/11

Lunar25 - TR O/S - 05/Mar/11 with Titi, Gedas

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Sep/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 25/Jul/10

hardoreVdiffBen - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/10 with Remus

1 rest.
hellboundblr - TR dog - 11/Jul/10 with Adrian Goldstraw

kjbix - Lead - 16/May/10 with Mike Colinson

dave mann - Lead O/S - 2010

efrance24234 - 2010

Lunar25 - Lead O/S - 2010

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Jun/09

Hidden - 2nd - 20/Apr/09

Tom Phillips - 2nd - 11/May/08 with leo

greylag - 2nd - 2008

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 09/Sep/06

Hidden - 2006

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 2006

kingholmesy - Lead O/S - 2006 with SteveOc

Hidden - 2nd - 2005

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2003

Hidden - TR O/S - 2003

Hidden - 1988

Hidden - Lead - 06/Sep/84

GordonHart - Lead O/S - 1984 with John

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Jul/82

Mark Kemball - Lead - 13/Apr/80

Dave Westby - Lead - 1963 with Garry Nuttal

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
cheek to the rock, Hidden, Ropeboy, Hidden, alimckay, Hidden, Ralfy

Voting
Total votes cast 77
hard E10 of 27
E10 of 27
easy E116 of 27
hard HVS6 of 27
HVS5 of 27
easy HVS0 of 27
hard VS0 of 27
VS0 of 27
easy VS0 of 27
hard 5b0 of 26
5b0 of 26
easy 5b11 of 26
hard 5a12 of 26
5a3 of 26
easy 5a0 of 26
hard 4c0 of 26
4c0 of 26
easy 4c0 of 26
3 Stars1 of 24
2 Stars19 of 24
1 Star2 of 24
0 Stars2 of 24
Bag of .....0 of 24
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Style of ascent

Lead21 of 47 (44.7%)
Followed13 of 47 (27.7%)
Toproped9 of 47 (19.1%)
Unknown4 of 47 (8.5%)

'Climbed'18 of 47 (38.3%)
clean O/S25 of 47 (53.2%)
clean β1 of 47 (2.1%)
clean rpt1 of 47 (2.1%)
dogged2 of 47 (4.3%)