Lancashire > Wilton 1 >
 
Virgin's Dilemma** HVS 5a

Adjacent Climbs
<< Great Slab
 
999 >>
[The over-looked 'Virgin's Dilemma' should not be missed by any HVS/E1 leader. , 2 kb]20m. A rare problem (a Wilton slab - what else?). Climb the centre of the lower slab to the sandy break then continue up its centre passing a peg to enter the shallow groove spliting the upper face. © ROCKFAX
FA. Hank Pasquill 1967

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List.

Photo: The over-looked 'Virgin's Dilemma' should not be missed by any HVS/E1 leader. © Liam Pos
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 50 logbooks, and on 7 wishlists.

It's a shame that this doesn't get more traffic. If it was clean it would be lovely especially as it's a bit of a novelty, a quarried grit slab! Nice moves if a little bold but never desperate. Go on give it a try, the cleaner it is the better it will be!
Leo Woodhead - Lead O/S - 09/Jul/14 with Ian W

clean onsight, the left side of the chimney was slightly wet, but apart from that it was a good, albeit hard climb (maybe E1 ??)
GeorgeClimbs - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/14

NickstaDB - 2nd O/S - Sep/13

Hidden - 10/Mar/13

dchovs - TR - 03/Mar/13

dchovs - TR - 27/Feb/13

In the rain... A0 Firstly i sliped off the start and ended up on my arse. Then pulled on the peg at the top.. very wet tho
efrance24234 - 2nd dog - 26/Jun/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/May/12

g1m147 - 2nd - 22/May/12 with Mick.

pchaplin - Lead - 01/Apr/12

Nice boulder problem at the start, after that a very creative climb with tiny footholds. Take micro nuts.
MichaelGallimore - 2nd β - 01/Apr/12 with Pete

2nded/top-roped first after Jim gave up on this and finished up 999. Quite good hard (one 5b move? from the jug to enter the chimney) sustained climbing, had to dig a few of the placements out with a nut key, plus one low side runner and still felt E1
Graeme Hammond - Lead rpt - 25/Mar/12 with Jim

Hmmm..not sure how this got graded HVS. Hard move into the chimney above very poor gear. Tried to lead but got frustrated and scooted off up 999. Definitely E1 and hard E1 at that.
Jim Slater - 2nd O/S - 25/Mar/12 with Graeme

Hidden - Lead O/S - Mar/12

Hidden - 2012

John Postlethwaite - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/11 with liam

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Jul/11

kk_cheung - TR - 13/Jul/11

Mike_Bottom - TR O/S - 27/Jun/11

wheelo - TR - 24/May/11 with chris g

This is never HVS 5a, much harder in my view.
ChrisGreen - TR O/S - 24/May/11 with John W

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 19/Mar/11

Lunar25 - TR O/S - 05/Mar/11 with Titi, Gedas

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Sep/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 25/Jul/10

hardoreVdiffBen - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/10 with Remus

1 rest.
hellboundblr - TR dog - 11/Jul/10 with Adrian Goldstraw

kjbix - Lead - 16/May/10 with Mike Colinson

dave mann - Lead O/S - 2010

efrance24234 - 2010

Lunar25 - Lead O/S - 2010

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Jun/09

Hidden - 2nd - 20/Apr/09

Tom Phillips - 2nd - 11/May/08 with leo

greylag - 2nd - 2008

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 09/Sep/06

Hidden - 2006

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 2006

kingholmesy - Lead O/S - 2006 with SteveOc

Hidden - 2nd - 2005

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2003

Hidden - TR O/S - 2003

Hidden - 1988

Hidden - Lead - 06/Sep/84

GordonHart - Lead O/S - 1984 with John

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Jul/82

Mark Kemball - Lead - 13/Apr/80

Hidden - AltLd - 1973

Dave Westby - Lead - 1963 with Garry Nuttal

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Hidden, Ropeboy, Hidden, alimckay, Hidden, Ralfy

Voting
Total votes cast 80
hard E10 of 28
E10 of 28
easy E116 of 28
hard HVS6 of 28
HVS6 of 28
easy HVS0 of 28
hard VS0 of 28
VS0 of 28
easy VS0 of 28
hard 5b0 of 27
5b0 of 27
easy 5b11 of 27
hard 5a12 of 27
5a4 of 27
easy 5a0 of 27
hard 4c0 of 27
4c0 of 27
easy 4c0 of 27
3 Stars1 of 25
2 Stars20 of 25
1 Star2 of 25
0 Stars2 of 25
Bag of .....0 of 25
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Style of ascent

Lead22 of 50 (44.0%)
Followed13 of 50 (26.0%)
Toproped9 of 50 (18.0%)
Alt Leads1 of 50 (2.0%)
Unknown5 of 50 (10.0%)

'Climbed'20 of 50 (40.0%)
clean O/S26 of 50 (52.0%)
clean β1 of 50 (2.0%)
clean rpt1 of 50 (2.0%)
dogged2 of 50 (4.0%)