|105m, 4 pitches. |
A superb crossing of the Carnage Wall and The Terrace with ever increasing exposure. Start as for Wind and Wuthering.1) 5b, 27m. Follow Wind and Wuthering up its flake and then up to easier ground. Step left, climbing the wall and ramp of East Wall Route to eventually step onto a good ledge and belay 6m below the top of the crag.2) 6b, 36m. Make a difficult traverse left around the blunt arete to a short corner (runners here to give a back-rope for the second). A difficult reverse mantel is followed by a swing down and left to reach horizontal breaks and then the sloping ledge that crosses the wall to below the Carnage 'mantelshelf' (there is an old low peg runner half way). Step down and left to the horizontal crack, and hand traverse this to a hawthorn. Move up and across to a tree belay on Limehill.3) 6b, 30m. Move down to a ledge below a small groove. Clip a peg runner in the break at foot level then drop down and follow the break to a thread runner and the wide groove (New Dawn Fades). Reverse the groove and go left to the base of the Midnight Cowboy ramp, then head up this to gain its flake. Traverse delicately left passing a groove to belay at a tree in the next groove.4) 6a, 12m. Finger traverse the break that leads to the thread runner in the wide groove (Sundance Wall). Follow the groove to the top. © ROCKFAX
UKC Logbook Description
5b,6b,6b,6a: An energy-sapping high level traverse of the Upper Right Wing and Terrace Walls. Start as for Crossbones and finish on Sundance Groove.
Pete Livesey(1972), FFA: Martin Berzins (1982)