Unicorn* HVS 5b
65m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A good, tough route with a tricky second pitch. Start below a groove, just right of the large overhang at 15m.
1) 4b, 15m. Weave up the lower wall to the large ledge.
2) 5b, 15m. Climb the small groove above and right of the ledge and make a hard move to gain the main groove on the left. Unicorn Direct (HVS) gains the same point by beefy jamming up the crack directly up and left of the belay. Pass the trees to a good belay below an overhang.
3) 4b, 28m. Follow the groove on the right, then traverse right to a tiny ledge on the exposed rib. Follow the rib to the top. © ROCKFAX


P R J Harding, P R Hodgkinson, M G Hughes (1 pt aid) 17/Apr/1949
Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 81 logbooks, and on 6 wishlists.

cornishbekx - 2nd dog - 18/Jul/15

Hidden - AltLd dog - 15/Jun/15

jimmatthews - AltLd O/S - 15/Jun/15 with Ally Hurst

Attempted to lead P2 but backed-off. Nasty crux with poor gear, sloping holds and almost inevitable contact with the belayer or the belay ledge if you slip - not my idea of fun. I lodged one half-way decent DMM grey wallnut into the crack below the crux but could find no other gear worth falling on. Small tri-cams might work.
Pete_Frost - AltLd dnf - 07/Jun/15 with Chris Brooks

Crux moves good. The rest is ok, gear a bit crap and so is the rock in places.
jezb1 - AltLd - 04/Jun/15

Led crux P2, but had to ground (& grind!) up it. Fell off first go, failing to bridge properly. Fortunately Johnny absorbed most of impact, when my arse landed on his head. Glad I had small cams for protection. Found solution both technical & strenuous: tough for 5b. But a good route, which left me limping & suitably chastened.
Andy Clarke - AltLd - 09/Apr/15 with Johnny

Si - 2015

p2. awkward move on pitch 2 with less than inspiring gear for HVS 5b. cool top pitch
benkelsey - AltLd O/S - 13/Oct/14 with rory wadsworth

Lead P1,3 P2 crux
ruairidhwad - Lead O/S - Oct/14 with Ben Kelsey

Did first bold pitch before Tris struggled with the 2nd pitch. Handed me the reigns after small fall onto cluster of shit gear. I only kept going cos I didn't fancy the down climb. Awkward crux. Didn't get to savour final pitch as rain had started so rushed it.
freemanTom - AltLd O/S - 24/Aug/14 with Tristian

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 01/Jul/14

climbtim - AltLd dnf - 01/Jul/14 with Tom Thorne

Andrew Lester - AltLd O/S - 10/Jun/14

Harder than expected. top pitch was awesome.
highclimber - Lead O/S - 12/Mar/14

Neil - Lead O/S - 2014

I led P1 and 3. Seconding pitch 2 with a heavy bag and a too tight toprope made it so hard! After falling off a couple of times, i made it through
dobby 200 - AltLd RP - 30/Nov/13 with Joe Doherty

joedoherty - AltLd - 30/Nov/13 with Micheal Dobinson

2nd pitch
metal arms - AltLd O/S - 24/Aug/13

Led p 1 & then kept going up the crux second pitch to make one long pitch
cem - AltLd O/S - 27/Jul/13 with Chris Smith, Pete Atkinson

Abandoned after lead fell and his gear failed.
Siobhan McGowan - 2nd dnf - 27/Jul/13

CrispsSmiths - AltLd - 27/Jul/13 with cem

Did pitch 2+3 together by accident. One move wonder really
partz - AltLd O/S - 25/Jun/13 with Halla Parkin

Nick Biven - 2013

Hard for 5b. Not over impressed with the protection on P2 either or maybe I was having a bad day.
Dave Rumney - Lead - 08/Jul/12 with Tanya Milner

Hidden - Mar/12

Lawrie Brand - AltLd O/S - 17/Aug/11 with Joe

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 02/Jul/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/Apr/11

Ed Griffin - 2nd dog - 30/Jun/10 with Alaric

Quite chuffed with this. But closest I have come to falling off for a while. I contemplated jumping away out from the groove, but wasn't sure the gear would hold, so self preservation kicked in and I found some extra tenacity from somewhere. Extended the traverse on pitch 3 to add extra excitement, and came up the far side of the final rib which is steeper.
Alaric - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/10 with Ed

HIGHTOWER - AltLd O/S - 19/Jun/10 with Dunc (Bangor), Hannah

Tightsgirl - 2nd - 19/Jun/10 with Duncan Campbell, Mark Freestone

p1+p3. 1 hard, thrutchy move on 2nd pitch..good effort mav!
Duncan Campbell - AltLd O/S - 19/Jun/10 with Mav, Hannah

The Bad Cough - AltLd O/S - 12/Jun/10 with Christian Minett

Led pitch 2. Crux is just off the belay. I spent as much time gardening the second belay as I could!
Ken Applegate - AltLd O/S - 15/Apr/10 with Hannah Evans

Hidden - 2010

Ken Taylor - 2010

Hidden - 2010

Seymore Butt - 2009

jchenoweth - Lead RP - 18/Oct/08 with Charlie Jeynes and Andy Miller

P2
barni - AltLd - 24/Jun/08 with Paul James

mje1398 - AltLd O/S - 31/May/08 with John M

Matt Vigg - 2008

Hidden - AltLd - 2008

Hidden - AltLd - Jul/07

richardr - Apr/07

Hidden - 2006

mattyork2 - AltLd - 15/Aug/05 with moony

Stone Muppet - 2005

I led crux 5b pitch: awkward, but well-protected with my special friend :-)
Siderunner - AltLd O/S - 02/May/04 with Steve M

SteveM - AltLd - 02/May/04 with AS

jparry75 - Lead - May/04 with m.evans

michael burrows - 2nd - 20/Jun/03 with mark ryan

Rock Fairy - 2nd - 2000 with Carl

Led P2 crux
Different Steve - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/99 with Rupert Holbrook & Christina Ennis

Chris Reid - Lead O/S - 03/Jun/99

Marti999 - AltLd - 1994 with kev

WB - 1992

Babika - 2nd O/S - 20/Oct/90 with Bob Horne

Hidden - 1990

Hidden - AltLd - 22/Jul/87

michael burrows - AltLd O/S - 14/Jun/87 with pete roberts

Hammy - Lead - 10/Mar/84 with Les Witt

Ian Clare - 1984

Robmwatt - 1983

Mark Kemball - 18/Oct/81

RichardMc - Lead - 01/Aug/81 with Dave Langmead

Hidden - Lead - 30/May/81

Falko - Lead O/S - 1980 with Chris Plant

beaumap - AltLd - Jun/76 with Bernie Green

Desperate.
Ian Jones - AltLd O/S - 1976 with Chris Newton

Bolt Phobia - Lead - 26/Oct/75

mikej - AltLd - 10/Sep/75 with Mike Byles

granitbahn - AltLd - 1974

rogerskews - 30/Jun/73 with Keith Jenkins

Tom V - 1972

RichardMc - AltLd - 19/Aug/69 with Derek Bull

tapley - Lead - 19/Jul/69 with Alex George

Hidden - Lead - 17/Jun/67

eroica64 - 2nd - 08/Apr/66 with Clive Powell

Line runners on spikes with double steel krabs to stop them lifting.Done for second time about 2005
uphillnow - AltLd - 1964 with Van Dave

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
mapperley samurai, ms26g10, rbharries

Voting
Total votes cast 33
hard E10 of 12
E11 of 12
easy E10 of 12
hard HVS9 of 12
HVS2 of 12
easy HVS0 of 12
hard VS0 of 12
VS0 of 12
easy VS0 of 12
hard 5c0 of 11
5c0 of 11
easy 5c2 of 11
hard 5b7 of 11
5b2 of 11
easy 5b0 of 11
hard 5a0 of 11
5a0 of 11
easy 5a0 of 11
3 Stars0 of 10
2 Stars1 of 10
1 Star6 of 10
0 Stars2 of 10
Bag of .....1 of 10
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Unknown
Climbed
Clean O/S
Clean RP
Dogged
DNF