Gwynedd > Carreg Wastad >
 
Unicorn* HVS 5b

Adjacent Climbs
<< Unicorn Direct
 
Elidor >>
65m, 3 pitches. A good, tough route with a tricky second pitch. Start below a groove, just right of the large overhang at 15m. 1) 4a, 15m. Weave up the lower wall to the large ledge. 2) 5b, 15m. Climb into the small groove above the ledge and make a hard move to gain the main groove on the left. Pass the trees to a good belay below an overhang. 3) 4b, 28m. Follow the groove on the right, then traverse right to a tiny ledge on the exposed rib. Follow the rib to the top. © ROCKFAX
P R J Harding, P R Hodgkinson, M G Hughes (1 pt aid) 17/Apr/1949
Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 70 logbooks, and on 5 wishlists.

Did first bold pitch before Tris struggled with the 2nd pitch. Handed me the reigns after small fall onto cluster of shit gear. I only kept going cos I didn't fancy the down climb. Awkward crux. Didn't get to savour final pitch as rain had started so rushed it.
freemanTom (Guildford MC) - AltLd O/S - 24/Aug/14 with Tristian

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 01/Jul/14

climbtim - AltLd dnf - 01/Jul/14 with Tom Thorne

Andrew Lester - AltLd O/S - 10/Jun/14

Harder than expected. top pitch was awesome.
highclimber - Lead O/S - 12/Mar/14

Neil - Lead O/S - 2014

I led P1 and 3. Seconding pitch 2 with a heavy bag and a too tight toprope made it so hard! After falling off a couple of times, i made it through
dobby 200 - AltLd RP - 30/Nov/13 with Joe Doherty

joedoherty - AltLd - 30/Nov/13 with Micheal Dobinson

2nd pitch
metal arms - AltLd O/S - 24/Aug/13

Led p 1 & then kept going up the crux second pitch to make one long pitch
cem - AltLd O/S - 27/Jul/13 with Chris Smith, Pete Atkinson

Abandoned after lead fell and his gear failed.
Siobhan McGowan - 2nd dnf - 27/Jul/13

Did pitch 2+3 together by accident. One move wonder really
partz - AltLd O/S - 25/Jun/13 with Halla Parkin

Nick Biven - 2013

Hard for 5b. Not over impressed with the protection on P2 either or maybe I was having a bad day.
Dave Rumney - Lead - 08/Jul/12 with Tanya Milner

Hidden - Mar/12

Lawrie Brand - AltLd O/S - 17/Aug/11 with Joe

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 02/Jul/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/Apr/11

Ed Griffin - 2nd dog - 30/Jun/10 with Alaric

Quite chuffed with this. But closest I have come to falling off for a while. I contemplated jumping away out from the groove, but wasn't sure the gear would hold, so self preservation kicked in and I found some extra tenacity from somewhere. Extended the traverse on pitch 3 to add extra excitement, and came up the far side of the final rib which is steeper.
Alaric - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/10 with Ed

HIGHTOWER - AltLd O/S - 19/Jun/10 with Dunc (Bangor), Hannah

Tightsgirl - 2nd - 19/Jun/10 with Duncan Campbell, Mark Freestone

p1+p3. 1 hard, thrutchy move on 2nd pitch..good effort mav!
Duncan Campbell - UKC - AltLd O/S - 19/Jun/10 with Mav, Hannah

The Bad Cough - AltLd O/S - 12/Jun/10 with Christian Minett

Led pitch 2. Crux is just off the belay. I spent as much time gardening the second belay as I could!
Ken Applegate - AltLd O/S - 15/Apr/10 with Hannah Evans

Hidden - 2010

Ken Taylor - 2010

Hidden - 2010

Seymore Butt - 2009

jchenoweth - Lead RP - 18/Oct/08 with Charlie Jeynes and Andy Miller

P2
barni - AltLd - 24/Jun/08 with Paul James

mje1398 - AltLd O/S - 31/May/08 with John M

Matt Vigg - 2008

Hidden - AltLd - 2008

Hidden - AltLd - Jul/07

richardr - Apr/07

Hidden - 2006

mattyork2 - AltLd - 15/Aug/05 with moony

Stone Muppet - 2005

I led crux 5b pitch: awkward, but well-protected with my special friend :-)
Siderunner - AltLd O/S - 02/May/04 with Steve M

SteveM - AltLd - 02/May/04 with AS

jparry75 - Lead - May/04 with m.evans

michael burrows - 2nd - 20/Jun/03 with mark ryan

Rock Fairy - 2nd - 2000 with Carl

Led P2 crux
Different Steve - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/99 with Rupert Holbrook & Christina Ennis

Chris Reid - Lead O/S - 03/Jun/99

Marti999 - AltLd - 1994 with kev

WB - 1992

Babika - 2nd O/S - 20/Oct/90 with Bob Horne

Hidden - 1990

Hidden - AltLd - 22/Jul/87

michael burrows - AltLd O/S - 14/Jun/87 with pete roberts

Hammy - Lead - 10/Mar/84 with Les Witt

Ian Clare - 1984

jasper11 - 1983

Mark Kemball - 18/Oct/81

RichardMc - Lead - 01/Aug/81 with Dave Langmead

Hidden - Lead - 30/May/81

Falko - Lead O/S - 1980 with Chris Plant

beaumap - AltLd - Jun/76 with Bernie Green

Desperate.
Ian Jones - AltLd O/S - 1976 with Chris Newton

Bolt Phobia - Lead - 26/Oct/75

mikej - AltLd - 10/Sep/75 with Mike Byles

granitbahn - AltLd - 1974

rogerskews - 30/Jun/73 with Keith Jenkins

Tom V - 1972

RichardMc - AltLd - 19/Aug/69 with Derek Bull

tapley - Lead - 19/Jul/69 with Alex George

eroica64 - 2nd - 08/Apr/66 with Clive Powell

Line runners on spikes with double steel krabs to stop them lifting.Done for second time about 2005
David Smith - AltLd - 1964 with Van Dave

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
ms26g10, rbharries, useful, Hidden, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 19
hard E10 of 7
E10 of 7
easy E10 of 7
hard HVS5 of 7
HVS2 of 7
easy HVS0 of 7
hard VS0 of 7
VS0 of 7
easy VS0 of 7
hard 5c0 of 7
5c0 of 7
easy 5c1 of 7
hard 5b5 of 7
5b1 of 7
easy 5b0 of 7
hard 5a0 of 7
5a0 of 7
easy 5a0 of 7
3 Stars0 of 5
2 Stars1 of 5
1 Star4 of 5
0 Stars0 of 5
Bag of .....0 of 5
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent

Lead13 of 70 (18.6%)
Followed7 of 70 (10.0%)
Alt Leads33 of 70 (47.1%)
Unknown17 of 70 (24.3%)

'Climbed'41 of 70 (58.6%)
clean O/S22 of 70 (31.4%)
clean RP2 of 70 (2.9%)
dogged1 of 70 (1.4%)
dnf4 of 70 (5.7%)