Rockfax Description
Poor rock and vegetation on the initial pitches gives way to better climbing above.
1) 4c, 27m. As for Old Holborn. Start at a small rib flanked on both sides by grooves. Climb the groove on the right of the rib, then surmount the rib itself. From its top, move right onto a slanting rake. Follow this to belay in the holly trees.
2) 4c, 36m. Battle your way behind the holly and climb the wall to gain a groove moving right to a rib and continue on in the same vein to reach a terrace. Move left to the base of the large corner and climb it on improving rock to belay on a holly tree.
3) 4c, 18m. Move up and right below the overhangs. Then move back left on big holds to an fantastically exposed niche. Pull through the steepening above and climb the now deteriorating corner taking care with loose blocks at the top. © Rockfax
"A Graded List of a Few Welsh Climbs" Aka ROGER'S LIST
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Rick Sewards | 20 Sep, 2023 |
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βeta: As of May 2023, very dense ivy at foot of groove on 2nd pitch - impossible to see holds or gear - lowered off in situ sling and crab before traverse | βeta? | |
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βeta: As of May 2023, very dense ivy at foot of groove on 2nd pitch - impossible to see holds or gear - lowered off in situ sling and crab before traverse |
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Max Hangs | 12 May, 2019 |
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βeta: Take care! Very bold and chossy for VS. Scared me more than any HVS I've been on. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Take care! Very bold and chossy for VS. Scared me more than any HVS I've been on. |
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Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Craig Doris)