UKC

Rockfax Description
Poor rock and vegetation on the initial pitches gives way to better climbing above.
1) 4c, 27m. As for Old Holborn. Start at a small rib flanked on both sides by grooves. Climb the groove on the right of the rib, then surmount the rib itself. From its top, move right onto a slanting rake. Follow this to belay in the holly trees.
2) 4c, 36m. Battle your way behind the holly and climb the wall to gain a groove moving right to a rib and continue on in the same vein to reach a terrace. Move left to the base of the large corner and climb it on improving rock to belay on a holly tree.
3) 4c, 18m. Move up and right below the overhangs. Then move back left on big holds to an fantastically exposed niche. Pull through the steepening above and climb the now deteriorating corner taking care with loose blocks at the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists

"A Graded List of a Few Welsh Climbs" Aka ROGER'S LIST

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User Date Notes
Rick Sewards 20 Sep, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: As of May 2023, very dense ivy at foot of groove on 2nd pitch - impossible to see holds or gear - lowered off in situ sling and crab before traverse
βeta?
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βeta: As of May 2023, very dense ivy at foot of groove on 2nd pitch - impossible to see holds or gear - lowered off in situ sling and crab before traverse
Max Hangs 12 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Take care! Very bold and chossy for VS. Scared me more than any HVS I've been on.
βeta?
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βeta: Take care! Very bold and chossy for VS. Scared me more than any HVS I've been on.

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Guidebooks for Carreg Wastad

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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 27
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 26
Votes cast 25
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Dogged
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Facinating Witches

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Craig Doris)

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