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Heaven And Earth Show*** E3 5c

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100m, 4 pitches. The imposing wall finishing on the exposed fin at the highest point in the Gorge. Sustained 5c for the majority with lots of gear including many old pegs. p1. 4c - Easy groove to ledges below an ash stump. p2. 5c - Thin vertical wall passing many pegs. p3. 5c - Climb the wall behind the belay to good holds below a peg. Continue steeply up left of the peg to a rest. Traverse right into a thin crack and pass the RH end of a roof. Continue easily to the terrace. p4. 5c - climb the wall left of the arete, with great holds and gear, to meet the arete at half height. Follow the excellent arete to the top.
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 10 logbooks, and on 5 wishlists.

Went to do Coronation St but there was a ridiculously slow party on it so settled on this instead. Balls ache approach up the gully and across a field of nettles. The first pitch was indifferent but set the scene with vegetation, moistness and loads of snails in the cracks (WTF?! Never seen anything like it, is Cheddar meant to be famous for its snail cultivation as well as the cheese?). Ed led that one and I led the rest. P2 had a hard sequence to get to the first peg (Ed found that fine so may be I was just a bit gripped as it was above the gear) and then a fairly sustained sequence past some wet holds. Lots of pegs, not all of them essential so didn't clip them all. P3 was damn hard! I think I went off route a bit - after the second (stainless steel) peg I traversed immediately right to the crack, which was tricky to get into and wet! Sustained hard 5c to the roof, fortunately the gear was fine. Then a long reach to a jug and easier ground. I think you're meant to go up (may be slightly left and up) from the peg for a couple of metres, then move right. Anyway, hard E3 the way I did it but good fun. A great pitch. P4 was hard to start to get up to and past the two pegs (got a good back up cam in at the expense of squishing a couple of snails in the crack, ooops!). Moved to the arÍte immediately right from the second pitch but looked hard to move up the arÍte from there, so went back to the peg and moved up two or three metres (holds and gear materialised), then went round the arÍte straight to the flake crack. I think that was the right way! Very enjoyable climbing up the arÍte, must have looked spectacular from the ground in the evening sun. A final short steep wall to finish this excellent pitch. The past two pitches definitely lifted the route into three star status. A really adventurous experience as no one had done it for a while, so no chalk and had to garden en route a fair bit to reveal holds, plus there were wet bits and the snails! Horrible descent slither down Shoot Gully, never again!!!
Misha - AltLd O/S - 05/Oct/13 with Ed

Rather than grow old waiting for a slow party on Coronation St we flicked through the guidebook and picked this. Just maybe in fine dry conditions the steep and unstable dirt and nettle approach via Gully is pleasant, but not on this particular day. Lead P1 - straightforward, with many snail filled cracks. Misha lead other pitches. Rested midway up P2 and on P3, climbed up towards the roof on P3 before stepping right, prob easier than Misha's way going right then up. Pleased to get the intricacies of P4 clean. Great view from the top - but there must be an easier way to get there!
eduardo - AltLd dog - 05/Oct/13 with Misha

eddy-on-the-rocks - Lead O/S - 13/Mar/11 with Tom P

Lead P1, P3
TommityP - Lead O/S - 13/Mar/11 with Ed

Fall/rests on P3. The top pitch is an astonishing find which could and should have been done in the 70s. Amazing that it was overlooked for so long.
Paul Robertson - AltLd dog - 11/Mar/11 with Guy Percival

led pitches 2 and 4, both are really good.
guy xavier percival - AltLd O/S - 11/Mar/11 with paul

Lead p1(clean) and p3 (Dogged - roof gave me some problems). Awesome route, great fun.
sam.sam.sam.ferguson - AltLd O/S - 04/Mar/11 with Marti Hallett

Awesome, good gear on every pitch. But you are going to be cold!
Marti999 - AltLd O/S - 04/Mar/11 with Sam Ferguson

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 17/Oct/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Feb/07

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Alan100, richiebongo, ericinbristol, Hidden, andy dunn

Voting
Total votes cast 19
hard E40 of 7
E40 of 7
easy E40 of 7
hard E30 of 7
E33 of 7
easy E34 of 7
hard E20 of 7
E20 of 7
easy E20 of 7
hard 6a0 of 6
6a0 of 6
easy 6a0 of 6
hard 5c1 of 6
5c5 of 6
easy 5c0 of 6
hard 5b0 of 6
5b0 of 6
easy 5b0 of 6
3 Stars3 of 6
2 Stars3 of 6
1 Star0 of 6
0 Stars0 of 6
Bag of .....0 of 6
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