16m. High in the grade. Start 3m right of Back Off, at the lowest point of the slab. Climb easily up the mini arete, crossing the diagonal crack of Bishop's Move, to the horizontal break. Follow the left trending crack in the slab above, and make a tricky finish over the slight overlap to the tree (as for Back Off). Adequately protected but the higher placements are fiddly - micros may be useful.

B Mullan, C Lindley 31/Oct/2010

Ticklists: Fairy Cave Quarry Top 20.

Wendy Watthews 03/Oct Lead O/S
with Tom FP
Robin Woodward 08/Aug Lead O/S

Fairly straightforward to the overlap and then just committing to go for the top (on not ideal, but OK gear). it's unclear if the line is direct (not much there), left (to the E2) or right (to the footledge/pocket foot and crack) , I sort of bridged/splayed the right and middle left.

just one more 23/Jul Lead O/S
with ben enright, katie b
dansimkin 04/Jul Lead dog
gobbledigook 01/Jul 2nd O/S
Poco Loco 30/Jun Lead O/S
with Dan Guy, Bald Eagle
BALD EAGLE 30/Jun 2nd
with Dan Guy, James Pomeroy
Hidden 23/Jun Lead
crater 22/Jun 2nd O/S
with steve
Hidden 18/Jun Lead
Monkey_Alan 14/Jun Lead O/S

Eats offsets like anything!

Trace 14/Jun 2nd
carl_123 04/Jun Lead rpt
catty_9 03/Jun Lead O/S
with Sam Joseph
Legs 28/May Lead O/S

Nice little lead as a warm up. Short and sweet.

with Sarah
Hidden 28/May 2nd
davidclare 16/May Lead O/S
with Tris Vye
Hidden 11/May 2nd rpt
Hidden 11/May Lead rpt
Hidden 04/May Lead O/S
sideshow84 04/May Lead O/S
Mayaculpa 01/May TR
with Mike Rotraxion
Rob Morgan 05/Oct/14 2nd
Steve Bartle 05/Oct/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Oct/14 2nd rpt
Hidden 04/Oct/14 Lead rpt
steve_gibbs 27/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with John Harris, Jamie Roberts
Hidden 17/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Sep/14 2nd rpt
Hidden 12/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Aug/14 2nd O/S
georgeevans88 03/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Didn't feel that bold with micros. Quite sustained for the grade. Good slab practice.

with Caitlin
will_benfold 03/Aug/14 2nd rpt
Pintsize 03/Aug/14 Lead O/S
spenser 27/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Andrew Rembrandt
Hidden 27/Jul/14 2nd O/S
Tom F Harding 12/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Chris Sieradzki 06/Jul/14 Lead O/S

This is definitely not VS. I have done E1s with better gear which on this route is so fiddly and shallow. Moves are easy but my head was telling me I can't fall on this.

with Hooo
Hooo 06/Jul/14 2nd
marsden.d.paul 03/Jul/14 Lead O/S
thomb 03/Jul/14 -
with Paul
trwolfe13 29/Jun/14 2nd O/S
will_benfold 29/Jun/14 2nd O/S
with Tim Culwick
cameron_hall 29/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Jun/14 2nd
Snorfalorpagus 29/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Enjoyable. Bold.

with Aileen Robertson
richardsavill 13/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with steve tarrant
Hidden 12/Jun/14 Lead rpt
upontop 05/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Chris
brian watson 05/Jun/14 Lead O/S
felixizzy 01/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Jack
Hidden 26/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/May/14 2nd
Hidden 26/May/14 TR rpt
Nevil 19/May/14 Lead
with Vince
Vincej 19/May/14 2nd
with Nevil
Alessandro Tentori 17/May/14 2nd O/S
with Kirsten Donovan
kirsten 17/May/14 Lead
Hidden 05/May/14 Lead O/S
Easty14 16/Apr/14 Lead
Hidden 11/Oct/13 TR O/S
Easty14 05/Oct/13 2nd
Pete Randall 05/Oct/13 Lead O/S
with Seb, Pete Neden
Hidden 05/Oct/13 2nd O/S
Matt Amos 20/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Deary65 31/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Learning to trust my feet on slabs!

Felix Ottey 25/Aug/13 Lead O/S
wurzelinzummerset 09/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Nick
stoneback 09/Aug/13 2nd O/S
with Alan
MoWalker3 07/Aug/13 -
with Cormac
riddle 04/Aug/13 Solo O/S
petegunn 21/Jul/13 2nd
with Davina
Hidden 21/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Adrian Daniels 21/Jul/13 Lead
with John Parrott, Steve Webster
Hidden 16/Jul/13 Lead
The Ivanator 05/Jul/13 2nd rpt
with Dave
davenev 05/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Ivan
beckett45 28/Jun/13 Lead
fishinwater 18/Jun/13 Lead
with Rob H
BruceW 08/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Becca
Hidden 02/Jun/13 Lead O/S
tolly_60 01/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Rushed it; placing crap, run-out runners, and made a quick dash for the tree at the top!

Marti999 31/May/13 2nd O/S
with Ben Hallett, Debbie
TimPerkin 26/May/13 Lead
with Tom Perkin
johnl 25/May/13 Lead O/S

So it has the same crux as Back Off? That makes it 5b doesn't it? Go over the overlap 1 metre to the right to make it 4c. Cracking route though.

with Adam Perrett
carl_123 22/May/13 Lead O/S
Cheese Monkey 17/May/13 Lead O/S


with Mike
Mayaculpa 17/May/13 2nd
with Ben
gjh 06/May/13 Lead O/S
kate tarrant ?/May/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Apr/13 Lead O/S
kirsten 21/Apr/13 Lead
with Brian
bpmclimb 21/Apr/13 Lead rpt

Still not sure of the grade of this!

with Kirsten
Ian JL 06/Oct/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Sep/12 Lead O/S
bpmclimb 19/Aug/12 Lead rpt
with Clare
Urgles 19/Aug/12 2nd rpt
Big Lee 21/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Felt top end VS, top end 4c but not HVS as there were some really good nut placements right where I needed them at half height. Gave up trying to place the micro wire below the overlap though as the placement didn't look like it would hold a 90kg fall. The moves over the overlap weren't too difficult once committed. Possibly the best route of the day.

with Alan
The Ivanator 28/May/12 Lead rpt
with Jez
jezb1 28/May/12 2nd

On reflection, I think it's vs 4c but you could persuade me it's hvs 4c

The Ivanator 02/May/12 Lead O/S

Top of both tech and adjectival grades, led on Stu's in situ gear. Nice route, well worth a *

bpmclimb 02/May/12 TR rpt
with Shunt
bpmclimb 02/May/12 Lead rpt

Gear in situ.

with Stu, Ivan, Mick
bpmclimb 13/Aug/11 2nd rpt

VS/HVS 4c/5a. Right on the cusp. Still inclined to go with top end VS, after comparison with Caveman and Jiggery Pokery over on the Glacis.

with Helen S
Hidden 13/Aug/11 Lead O/S
blum 03/Jul/11 2nd β

Tom lead I seconded

with Tom Starks
blum 03/Jul/11 2nd β

Tom lead I seconded. Nice route

with Tom Starks
Stanners 19/Jun/11 TR O/S

Climbed to help confirm a grade in the new guide. Personally think its HVS 4C, the gear looked too shallow and small in my opinion for it to be VS.

Quarryboy 19/Jun/11 TR O/S

Debate on the grade between Rob and Mark was beginning to annoy me and so I decided to top rope it myself as a warm down to find out how hard it really was, I think I agree with Rob HVS 4c seem about right.

Urgles 19/Jun/11 Lead rpt

Led this time to remove dagger. Top end VS 4c as some of the gear is fiddly and the move over the overlap is borderline 4c/5a and protected by a microwire.

Urgles 04/Jun/11 TR
with Mr Shunt
bpmclimb 03/Mar/11 Lead rpt

Possibly VS 4c.

with Clare
bpmclimb 31/Oct/10 Lead O/S

FA (although very likely done before). Links start of Travel Bug to last couple of moves of Back Off, via a nice crack which takes good gear.

with Clare
Hidden ??/2004 Lead
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
petecallaghan, Angrypenguin, jhobbs, Ollie Wickham, Hidden, Fatclimber, Hooo, Tom Harper, Hidden
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 29
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 27
Votes cast 20
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set