Somerset > Fairy Cave Quarry >
 
Talk to the Hand* VS 4c

Adjacent Climbs
<< Bishop's Move
 
Travel Bug >>
16m. High in the grade. Start 3m right of Back Off, at the lowest point of the slab. Climb easily up the mini arete, crossing the diagonal crack of Bishop's Move, to the horizontal break. Follow the left trending crack in the slab above, and make a tricky finish over the slight overlap to the tree (as for Back Off). Adequately protected but the higher placements are fiddly - micros may be useful.
B Mullan, C Lindley 31/Oct/2010

Ticklists: Fairy Cave Quarry Top 20.

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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 53 logbooks, and on 1 wishlist.

Easty14 - Lead - 16/Apr/14

Hidden - TR O/S - 11/Oct/13

Easty14 - 2nd - 05/Oct/13

Pete Randall - Lead O/S - 05/Oct/13 with Seb, Pete Neden

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 05/Oct/13

Matt Amos - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/13

Learning to trust my feet on slabs!
Deary65 - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/13

Felix Ottey - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/13

wurzelinzummerset - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/13 with Nick

stoneback - 2nd O/S - 09/Aug/13 with Alan

MoWalker3 - 07/Aug/13 with Cormac

riddle - Solo O/S - 04/Aug/13

petegunn - 2nd - 21/Jul/13 with Davina

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/13

Steve Woollard - Lead - 16/Jul/13 with Samantha Roach

SamanthaRoach12 - 2nd O/S - 16/Jul/13 with Steve Woollard

The Ivanator - 2nd rpt - 05/Jul/13 with Dave

davenev - Lead O/S - 05/Jul/13 with Ivan

fishinwater - Lead - 18/Jun/13 with Rob H

BruceW - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/13 with Becca

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/13

Rushed it; placing crap, run-out runners, and made a quick dash for the tree at the top!
tolly_60 - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/13

Marti999 - 2nd O/S - 31/May/13 with Ben Hallett, Debbie

TimPerkin - Lead - 26/May/13 with Tom Perkin

So it has the same crux as Back Off? That makes it 5b doesn't it? Go over the overlap 1 metre to the right to make it 4c. Cracking route though.
johnl - Lead O/S - 25/May/13 with Adam Perrett

carl_123 - Lead O/S - 22/May/13

Nice
Cheese Monkey - Lead O/S - 17/May/13 with Mike

Mayaculpa - 2nd - 17/May/13 with Ben

gjh - Lead O/S - 06/May/13

kate tarrant - Lead O/S - May/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Apr/13

kirsten - Lead - 21/Apr/13 with Brian

Still not sure of the grade of this!
bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 21/Apr/13 with Kirsten

Ian JL - Lead O/S - 06/Oct/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/12

bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 19/Aug/12 with Clare

The Pylon King - 2nd rpt - 19/Aug/12 with bpmclimb

Felt top end VS, top end 4c but not HVS as there were some really good nut placements right where I needed them at half height. Gave up trying to place the micro wire below the overlap though as the placement didn't look like it would hold a 90kg fall. The moves over the overlap weren't too difficult once committed. Possibly the best route of the day.
Big Lee - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/12 with Alan

The Ivanator - Lead rpt - 28/May/12 with Jez

Hidden - 2nd - 28/May/12

Top of both tech and adjectival grades, led on Stu's in situ gear. Nice route, well worth a *
The Ivanator - Lead O/S - 02/May/12 with Mick Ward, Brian, Stu

bpmclimb - TR rpt - 02/May/12 with Shunt

Gear in situ.
bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 02/May/12 with Stu, Ivan, Mick

VS/HVS 4c/5a. Right on the cusp. Still inclined to go with top end VS, after comparison with Caveman and Jiggery Pokery over on the Glacis.
bpmclimb - 2nd rpt - 13/Aug/11 with Helen S

and I still think HVS, having spent ages with cramping calves trying to fiddle in a rubbish micro at the top!!
hms - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/11 with Brian

Tom lead I seconded
blum - 2nd β - 03/Jul/11 with Tom Starks

Tom lead I seconded. Nice route
blum - 2nd β - 03/Jul/11 with Tom Starks

Climbed to help confirm a grade in the new guide. Personally think its HVS 4C, the gear looked too shallow and small in my opinion for it to be VS.
Stanners - TR O/S - 19/Jun/11 with Mark Davis, Jack Bradbrook

Debate on the grade between Rob and Mark was beginning to annoy me and so I decided to top rope it myself as a warm down to find out how hard it really was, I think I agree with Rob HVS 4c seem about right.
Quarryboy - TR O/S - 19/Jun/11 with Rob Stanfield, Mark Davies

Led this time to remove dagger. Top end VS 4c as some of the gear is fiddly and the move over the overlap is borderline 4c/5a and protected by a microwire.
The Pylon King - Lead rpt - 19/Jun/11

The Pylon King - TR - 04/Jun/11 with Mr Shunt

Possibly VS 4c.
bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 03/Mar/11 with Clare

FA (although very likely done before). Links start of Travel Bug to last couple of moves of Back Off, via a nice crack which takes good gear.
bpmclimb - Lead O/S - 31/Oct/10 with Clare

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
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Voting
Total votes cast 49
hard HVS0 of 18
HVS1 of 18
easy HVS4 of 18
hard VS9 of 18
VS4 of 18
easy VS0 of 18
hard HS0 of 18
HS0 of 18
easy HS0 of 18
hard 5a0 of 17
5a0 of 17
easy 5a2 of 17
hard 4c12 of 17
4c3 of 17
easy 4c0 of 17
hard 4b0 of 17
4b0 of 17
easy 4b0 of 17
3 Stars0 of 14
2 Stars3 of 14
1 Star11 of 14
0 Stars0 of 14
Bag of .....0 of 14
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Style of ascent

Soloed1 of 53 (1.9%)
Lead33 of 53 (62.3%)
Followed13 of 53 (24.5%)
Toproped5 of 53 (9.4%)
Unknown1 of 53 (1.9%)

'Climbed'11 of 53 (20.8%)
clean O/S30 of 53 (56.6%)
clean β2 of 53 (3.8%)
clean rpt10 of 53 (18.9%)