16m. High in the grade. Start 3m right of Back Off, at the lowest point of the slab. Climb easily up the mini arete, crossing the diagonal crack of Bishop's Move, to the horizontal break. Follow the left trending crack in the slab above, and make a tricky finish over the slight overlap to the tree (as for Back Off). Adequately protected but the higher placements are fiddly - micros may be useful.

B Mullan, C Lindley 31/Oct/2010

Ticklists: Fairy Cave Quarry Top 20.


ClimberDateStyle
Hidden 21/Oct 2nd rpt
Hidden 21/Oct Lead O/S
Mayaculpa 20/Oct 2nd
Mayaculpa 13/Oct TR
Hidden 05/Oct Lead
Hidden 26/Aug Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Jul Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Jun 2nd
George.Rowland 18/Jun 2nd
with Joe, Bob Peters
Fatclimber 18/Jun Lead O/S
with Niels
Bob Peters 18/Jun Lead
Jimkato ?/Jun -
Jimkato ?/Jun Lead
with Matt Walker
Hidden 24/May 2nd rpt
Hidden 24/May Lead rpt
arandall 16/May Lead O/S
Mayaculpa 14/May TR
with Mike Rotraxion
Mayaculpa 08/May TR
with Richard T, Mike Rotraxion
cdpuk 08/May Lead

Wet. Didn't fancy top moves in a wet muddy state so went around the left instead. Even when dry, HVS?

accordion_to_who 30/Apr Lead O/S

Quite bold for VS. Rewardingly sustained for such a short route. Committed moves on questionable gear but feels fairly safe because of the angle. Good dry-weather climbing on nice rock but make sure it's dry because there's not much for the feet and so smearing is non-negotiable.

Hidden 24/Apr Lead O/S
Woolly 17/Apr Lead
with Donald
crater 17/Apr 2nd rpt
with steve
Hidden 02/Apr 2nd O/S
Matt Smith 02/Apr Lead O/S

Challenging. Mostly because of the e2 section at the end.

stvredmond 31/Mar Lead
BALD EAGLE 19/Mar 2nd
with Dan Guy
gobbledigook 19/Mar Lead rpt
Mike Roger ??/2016 -
Wendy Watthews 03/Oct/15 Lead O/S
with Tom FP
Robin Woodward 08/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Fairly straightforward to the overlap and then just committing to go for the top (on not ideal, but OK gear). it's unclear if the line is direct (not much there), left (to the E2) or right (to the footledge/pocket foot and crack) , I sort of bridged/splayed the right and middle left.

Jenny Dart 08/Aug/15 2nd
with Robin
just one more 23/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with ben enright, katie b
dansimkin 04/Jul/15 Lead dog
gobbledigook 01/Jul/15 2nd O/S
Poco Loco 30/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Dan Guy, Bald Eagle
BALD EAGLE 30/Jun/15 2nd
with Dan Guy, James Pomeroy
BBEENN 29/Jun/15 Lead
Woolly 23/Jun/15 Lead
with Donald
crater 22/Jun/15 2nd O/S
with steve
Bob M 18/Jun/15 Lead

Didn't think that this was very well protected at the top. Moved right over the overlap and back left to the lower-off.

Monkey_Alan 14/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Eats offsets like anything!

Trace 14/Jun/15 2nd
carl_123 04/Jun/15 Lead rpt
catty_9 03/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Sam Joseph
Legs 28/May/15 Lead O/S

Nice little lead as a warm up. Short and sweet.

with Sarah
Hidden 28/May/15 2nd
davidclare 16/May/15 Lead O/S
with Tris Vye
Hidden 11/May/15 2nd rpt
Hidden 11/May/15 Lead rpt
Hidden 04/May/15 Lead O/S
sideshow84 04/May/15 Lead O/S
Mayaculpa 01/May/15 TR
with Mike Rotraxion
Rob Morgan 05/Oct/14 2nd
Steve Bartle 05/Oct/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Oct/14 2nd rpt
Hidden 04/Oct/14 Lead rpt
steve_gibbs 27/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with John Harris, Jamie Roberts
Hidden 17/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Sep/14 2nd rpt
Hidden 12/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Aug/14 2nd O/S
georgeevans88 03/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Didn't feel that bold with micros. Quite sustained for the grade. Good slab practice.

with Caitlin
will_benfold 03/Aug/14 2nd rpt
Pintsize 03/Aug/14 Lead O/S
spenser 27/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Andrew Rembrandt
Hidden 27/Jul/14 2nd O/S
Tom F Harding 12/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Chris Sieradzki 06/Jul/14 Lead O/S

This is definitely not VS. I have done E1s with better gear which on this route is so fiddly and shallow. Moves are easy but my head was telling me I can't fall on this.

with Hooo
Hooo 06/Jul/14 2nd
Hidden 03/Jul/14 Lead O/S
thomb 03/Jul/14 -
with Paul
trwolfe13 29/Jun/14 2nd O/S
will_benfold 29/Jun/14 2nd O/S
cameron_hall 29/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Jun/14 2nd
Snorfalorpagus 29/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Enjoyable. Bold.

with Aileen Robertson
richardsavill 13/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with steve tarrant
Hidden 12/Jun/14 Lead rpt
upontop 05/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Chris
brian watson 05/Jun/14 Lead O/S
felixizzy 01/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Jack
Hidden 26/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/May/14 2nd
Hidden 26/May/14 TR rpt
Nevil 19/May/14 Lead
with Vince
Vincej 19/May/14 2nd
with Nevil
Alessandro Tentori 17/May/14 2nd O/S
with Kirsten Donovan
kirsten 17/May/14 Lead
Hidden 05/May/14 Lead O/S
Easty14 16/Apr/14 Lead
Hidden 11/Oct/13 TR O/S
Easty14 05/Oct/13 2nd
Pete Randall 05/Oct/13 Lead O/S
with Seb, Pete Neden
Hidden 05/Oct/13 2nd O/S
Matt Amos 20/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Deary65 31/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Learning to trust my feet on slabs!

Felix Ottey 25/Aug/13 Lead O/S
wurzelinzummerset 09/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Nick
stoneback 09/Aug/13 2nd O/S
with Alan
MoWalker3 07/Aug/13 -
with Cormac
riddle 04/Aug/13 Solo O/S
petegunn 21/Jul/13 2nd
with Davina
Hidden 21/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Adrian Daniels 21/Jul/13 Lead
with John Parrott, Steve Webster
Woolly 16/Jul/13 Lead
The Ivanator 05/Jul/13 2nd rpt
with Dave
davenev 05/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Ivan
beckett45 28/Jun/13 Lead
fishinwater 18/Jun/13 Lead
with Rob H
BruceW 08/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Becca
Hidden 02/Jun/13 Lead O/S
tolly_60 01/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Rushed it; placing crap, run-out runners, and made a quick dash for the tree at the top!

Marti999 31/May/13 2nd O/S
with Ben Hallett, Debbie
TimPerkin 26/May/13 Lead
with Tom Perkin
johnl 25/May/13 Lead O/S

So it has the same crux as Back Off? That makes it 5b doesn't it? Go over the overlap 1 metre to the right to make it 4c. Cracking route though.

with Adam Perrett
carl_123 22/May/13 Lead O/S
Cheese Monkey 17/May/13 Lead O/S

Nice

with Mike
Mayaculpa 17/May/13 2nd
with Ben
gjh 06/May/13 Lead O/S
kate tarrant ?/May/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Apr/13 Lead O/S
kirsten 21/Apr/13 Lead
with Brian
bpmclimb 21/Apr/13 Lead rpt

Still not sure of the grade of this!

with Kirsten
Ian JL 06/Oct/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Sep/12 Lead O/S
bpmclimb 19/Aug/12 Lead rpt
with Clare
Mark Davies PK 19/Aug/12 2nd rpt
Huntlyfiddler 19/Aug/12 2nd
Big Lee 21/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Felt top end VS, top end 4c but not HVS as there were some really good nut placements right where I needed them at half height. Gave up trying to place the micro wire below the overlap though as the placement didn't look like it would hold a 90kg fall. The moves over the overlap weren't too difficult once committed. Possibly the best route of the day.

with Alan
The Ivanator 28/May/12 Lead rpt
with Jez
jezb1 28/May/12 2nd

On reflection, I think it's vs 4c but you could persuade me it's hvs 4c

The Ivanator 02/May/12 Lead O/S

Top of both tech and adjectival grades, led on Stu's in situ gear. Nice route, well worth a *

bpmclimb 02/May/12 TR rpt
with Shunt
bpmclimb 02/May/12 Lead rpt

Gear in situ.

with Stu, Ivan, Mick
bpmclimb 13/Aug/11 2nd rpt

VS/HVS 4c/5a. Right on the cusp. Still inclined to go with top end VS, after comparison with Caveman and Jiggery Pokery over on the Glacis.

with Helen S
Hidden 13/Aug/11 Lead O/S
blum 03/Jul/11 2nd β

Tom lead I seconded

with Tom Starks
blum 03/Jul/11 2nd β

Tom lead I seconded. Nice route

with Tom Starks
Stanners 19/Jun/11 TR O/S

Climbed to help confirm a grade in the new guide. Personally think its HVS 4C, the gear looked too shallow and small in my opinion for it to be VS.

Quarryboy 19/Jun/11 TR O/S

Debate on the grade between Rob and Mark was beginning to annoy me and so I decided to top rope it myself as a warm down to find out how hard it really was, I think I agree with Rob HVS 4c seem about right.

Mark Davies PK 19/Jun/11 Lead rpt

Led this time to remove dagger. Top end VS 4c as some of the gear is fiddly and the move over the overlap is borderline 4c/5a and protected by a microwire.

Mark Davies PK 04/Jun/11 TR
with Mr Shunt
bpmclimb 03/Mar/11 Lead rpt

Possibly VS 4c.

with Clare
Huntlyfiddler 03/Mar/11 2nd
bpmclimb 31/Oct/10 Lead O/S

FA (although very likely done before). Links start of Travel Bug to last couple of moves of Back Off, via a nice crack which takes good gear.

with Clare
Huntlyfiddler 31/Oct/10 2nd
Hidden ??/2004 Lead
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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 35
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 33
Votes cast 26
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Not Set