60m, 2 pitches.
Near the centre of the south-facing cliff is a large overhanging block at half-height. The climb starts vertically below this on a ledge at the detached tooth for the belayer to sit on.
1 25m Follow the left-slanting jamming crack to belay in the triangular niche at the top of the pillar
2. 35m From the niche, bridge up and jam the overhanging crack and make a spectacular and exciting move out unto the face at right [crux]. Claw up past vertical grass to ledge. Continue more easily up crack until forced to traverse right and up the pleasant comer to top.
1 25m Follow the left-slanting jamming crack to belay in the triangular niche at the top of the pillar
2. 35m From the niche, bridge up and jam the overhanging crack and make a spectacular and exciting move out unto the face at right [crux]. Claw up past vertical grass to ledge. Continue more easily up crack until forced to traverse right and up the pleasant comer to top.
G.Fogg, H,Fogg 24/Jul/2004.
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Route of Interest
Emperor's Nose
Grade: E2 5c ***
(Coumshingaun)