A long line that has a very traditional feel to it, and is a little dirty in places. Start at the toe of the ramp at the end of a seawater-filled trench.1) 20m. Climb the intimidating right-trending ramp and crack to a good ledge and spike belay at its right-hand end (care is needed to protect the second on this pitch).2) 12m. Ascend the large flake rightwards to its top and then work up the slab above it to a stance next to a large crack/corner.3) 14m. Move right to a crack and climb it to a break. Step right to another wider crack and climb its left wall to a ledge and belay on blocks.4) 10m. Climb a short crack to a horizontal break, traverse left to a ledge and finish up the corner-crack above it. © Rockfax
Ticklists: West Country Climbs.
|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
Carol, Andy J
Jack Hampson, Brandon Banfield
|Whole Nut||31/Aug||2nd dog||
Last pitch very green so came out though gully
Sunny and hot. Lead all 4 pitches, navigation on pitch 2 and 3 tricky. Surprisingly challenging for a VDiff, felt more like a severe. Pitch 3&4 are dirty (but dry)
|Poco Loco||05/Apr||AltLd O/S||
I led the first and last pitch. The first pitch was a bit wet which was more interesting since I was climbing in trainers... Interesting slabby hand traverse on the final pitch.
Solly Kemball Dorey, Alison Dorey
Didn't take enough gear and went off route. Bit of a 'mare. Lesson learnt: Climb multipitch with more snap gates, screwgates or quickdraws!
Lead all pitches. Went off route after pitch 2 and went straight up rather than right and up the slap, had a technical overhanging move which was harder than VDiff, great fun though.
|Ian Bell||25/Aug/13||AltLd O/S||
P1 & P3. P1 & P2 very nice. P3 a bit horrible and mossy. No feet hand traverse seemed a bit stiff for V Diff. Lovely place and weather though.
First pitch is brilliant. Can be tough for the second, if the leader isn't thoughtful with the protection. Upper pitches are not obvious, but worth it for the first pitch...
Richard Taylor, Katy Stranack
The first pitch is in a spectacular position, giving vdiff access to E grade territory. Lovely climb in perfect sunshine.
Tom Lowe, James berwick
Tom Lowe, Dave Webster
Beautiful setting! First multi-pitch lead. Dead seagull.
Pitches 3 and 4 terrible, loads of mud and hairy lichen.
Lead 1st & 3rd pitches. 1st pitch a pleasure, 2nd still fun, 3rd & 4th not obvious and soggy/overgrown.
|Neil D||28/Jun/12||AltLd O/S||
Led P1, P3, P4. Dirty!
Alistair Everett, will brown
One tricky move on suspect gear on first pitch. Rest was a pleasure. Sunburnt arms
Led pp 2 + 3
Jonah Jones, Andy Gee
Escape in the rain
Good fun, shame the middle pitches were a bit damp.
First two pitches sweet but lost route on final pitch and had to battle lichen and other grot
First two pitches ok, then got lost!
good first pich - rest rather overgrown
Challenging route finding through plants, lichen and guano. Intimidating but feasible final pitch with hand-traverse into mantel-shelf onto guano covered ledge. Had to wash hands afterwards but all good fun.
Led pitch 1, DW led pitch 2, 3, 4
|Neil Rodgers (PCC)||29/Aug/10||AltLd O/S||
First pitch was really promising, then went off route, not obvious, ended up gardening. Poor
|Mike Bayley||02/Jun/10||AltLd O/S||
Pitches 1 & 3
Andrea van der Vilt, Dave Wheeler
|Master Chief||14/Nov/08||AltLd O/S|
Nice VD, bit bold on the final pitch.
Bottom was wet as the tide had just pulled out, nice route.
My first ever outdoor climb (except for PYB course). Will always remember this.