Nippy Norman HS 4b
25m. A rock fall has turned the original corner climb into a crack climb, the pale rock and sudden transition to dark rock marks the position of the lost rock. Start right of the groove of Grapefruit Cocktail at the vertical crack. Climb the clean crack until a step right can be made about at 12 metres into a groove. (Don't step too far right as the more defined groove is loose, dirty and dangerous). Block belays as for Bantam etc. Exit the ridge by traversing it to the belay spike of The Snake. Caution recommended once the initial crack is climbed

The top section now looks dangerously loose - avoid until it stabilises.

Ticklists: Culm - When the tide's in..

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This climb is in 5 logbooks, and on no wishlists.

Repeated - didn't do the wrong line last time, the top really is that loose, tottering death mostly once past halfway. The first half is solid technical climbing - hard for HS, nearer VS.
Jelly Mould Surfer - Lead rpt - 11/Jan/14

At the top of the crack don't go too far right, if you join the wrong groove you will be winner of the worse route of the day award. An interesting start with the original corner now a crack in a slab after a rock fall, but the wrong groove is tottering death.
Jelly Mould Surfer - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/13

Mark Kemball - Lead - 02/Mar/13 with Stu Bradbury

Hidden - 2nd - 12/Jul/05

Norman_P_W - Lead - 12/Jul/05 with Bob M

Total votes cast 5
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