![[ukc advertising]](http://ukc2.com/core/ukc-ad.gif)
Click to read about Advertising on UKC |
Somerset > Fairy Cave Quarry >
|
| Tinkerbell | E1 5c |
Adjacent Climbs
<< Fairy Lites |
Standing on the Shoulders of Moles >> |
| |
|
| |
28m. Formerly HVS, but the route shed a block from just above the overlap; the crux move is now much harder. About 10m left of the Withyhill Cave entrance is a prominent arched overlap: start under the centre of this. Climb the slab, crossing a left-rising diagonal crack (which, disappointingly, spits out nuts) to the overlap. With a runner on the sapling on the left, step up and place small wires above the overlap; then pull over with difficulty. Easy climbing leads to the narrow terrace. Belay on saplings a further 8m up the easy but very loose ground behind the narrow terrace, or continue to the top. (Reclimbed 22.8.11 at the new grade of E1 5c by B Mullan, C Lindley, M Davies).
J Moyle, P Robertson 11/Jun/2011
| | |
|
This climb is in 5 logbooks, and on no wishlists.
Skipped the chossy loose shite after the hard bits.
gilmourheid - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/12 with Steve27
Repeat lead, after removal of the useful but dangerously loose block. We think the hard move is now 5c, and the overall grade E1, assuming the continued presence of the slabby block above the overlap which furnishes both small wire placements and holds. It seems solidly attached at the moment.
bpmclimb - Lead β - 22/Aug/11 with Mark, Clare
Backed off because good hold above overlap was creaking ominously. It's not one of those rattling but cammed in blocks; it's close to actually falling off and therefore needs removing. UPDATE abbed down a few days later and pulled off the block (easily). The move is probably 5b now, and the route E1.
bpmclimb - Lead dnf - 09/Aug/11 with Clare
James Moyle - Lead RP - 11/Jun/11 with Paul Robertson
Paul Robertson - 2nd O/S - 11/Jun/11 with James Moyle
|
|
| |
|
| |
| |
|
|
UKC on Facebook - 
UKC on Twitter
- Terms & Conditions - Privacy Policy - Contact Us