Tinkerbell E1 5c
28m. Formerly HVS, but the route shed a block from just above the overlap; the crux move is now much harder. About 10m left of the Withyhill Cave entrance is a prominent arched overlap: start under the centre of this. Climb the slab, crossing a left-rising diagonal crack (which, disappointingly, spits out nuts) to the overlap. With a runner on the sapling on the left, step up and place small wires above the overlap; then pull over with difficulty. Easy climbing leads to the narrow terrace. Belay on saplings a further 8m up the easy but very loose ground behind the narrow terrace, or continue to the top. (Reclimbed 22.8.11 at the new grade of E1 5c by B Mullan, C Lindley, M Davies).
J Moyle, P Robertson 11/Jun/2011
PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 9 logbooks, and on 1 wishlist.

Serious rock fall to the right on the overlap, this route seems okay. Top section loose as described.
riddle - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/14 with Tony

Committed to the hard move, only to discover that a cam on the back of my harness had attached itself to the sapling :(
will_benfold - Lead dog - 29/Jun/14 with Tim Culwick

Hidden - 2nd - 17/Mar/14

Grunty hard move! Did with terrible style!
Tristypants - Lead - 17/Mar/14 with Bec Chalkley

Skipped the chossy loose shite after the hard bits.
gilmourheid - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/12 with Steve27

Repeat lead, after removal of the useful but dangerously loose block. We think the hard move is now 5c, and the overall grade E1, assuming the continued presence of the slabby block above the overlap which furnishes both small wire placements and holds. It seems solidly attached at the moment.
bpmclimb - Lead β - 22/Aug/11 with Mark, Clare

Backed off because good hold above overlap was creaking ominously. It's not one of those rattling but cammed in blocks; it's close to actually falling off and therefore needs removing. UPDATE abbed down a few days later and pulled off the block (easily). The move is probably 5b now, and the route E1.
bpmclimb - Lead dnf - 09/Aug/11 with Clare

James Moyle - Lead RP - 11/Jun/11 with Paul Robertson

Paul Robertson - 2nd O/S - 11/Jun/11 with James Moyle

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
jopayne1988
Voting
Total votes cast 7
hard E20 of 2
E20 of 2
easy E20 of 2
hard E10 of 2
E12 of 2
easy E10 of 2
hard HVS0 of 2
HVS0 of 2
easy HVS0 of 2
hard 6a0 of 2
6a0 of 2
easy 6a0 of 2
hard 5c0 of 2
5c1 of 2
easy 5c1 of 2
hard 5b0 of 2
5b0 of 2
easy 5b0 of 2
3 Stars0 of 3
2 Stars0 of 3
1 Star0 of 3
0 Stars2 of 3
Bag of .....1 of 3
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.