28m. Formerly HVS, but the route shed a block from just above the overlap; the crux move is now much harder. About 10m left of the Withyhill Cave entrance is a prominent arched overlap: start under the centre of this. Climb the slab, crossing a left-rising diagonal crack (which, disappointingly, spits out nuts) to the overlap. With a runner on the sapling on the left, step up and place small wires above the overlap; then pull over with difficulty. Easy climbing leads to the narrow terrace. Belay on saplings a further 8m up the easy but very loose ground behind the narrow terrace, or continue to the top. (Reclimbed 22.8.11 at the new grade of E1 5c by B Mullan, C Lindley, M Davies).

J Moyle, P Robertson 11/Jun/2011

Paul Baller 25/Jul Lead O/S
with matt stevens
Paul Baller 25/Jul Lead O/S
with matt stevens
Matt Amos 06/Apr Lead O/S
with Sam O
riddle 12/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Serious rock fall to the right on the overlap, this route seems okay. Top section loose as described.

with Tony
will_benfold 29/Jun/14 Lead dog

Committed to the hard move, only to discover that a cam on the back of my harness had attached itself to the sapling :(

with Tim Culwick
Hidden 17/Mar/14 2nd
Tristypants 17/Mar/14 Lead

Grunty hard move! Did with terrible style!

with Bec Chalkley
gilmourheid 09/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Skipped the chossy loose shite after the hard bits.

with Steve27
bpmclimb 22/Aug/11 Lead β

Repeat lead, after removal of the useful but dangerously loose block. We think the hard move is now 5c, and the overall grade E1, assuming the continued presence of the slabby block above the overlap which furnishes both small wire placements and holds. It seems solidly attached at the moment.

with Mark, Clare
bpmclimb 09/Aug/11 Lead dnf

Backed off because good hold above overlap was creaking ominously. It's not one of those rattling but cammed in blocks; it's close to actually falling off and therefore needs removing. UPDATE abbed down a few days later and pulled off the block (easily). The move is probably 5b now, and the route E1.

with Clare
James Moyle 11/Jun/11 Lead RP
Paul Robertson 11/Jun/11 2nd O/S
with James Moyle
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hooo, jopayne1988
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
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High 6a
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High 5c
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High 5b
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Style of ascent
Flashed (β)
Not Set