Rockfax Description
The right-hand arete, on polished holds, leads to harrowing final moves; or an escape right. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Highball Font 4+.

Possibly Fergus Graham 1923

Ticklists: Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, A Severe Day Out in 1949 at BLACK ROCKS, Stonnis Allstars.

Blake 25/Oct Solo O/S
jimmysdead 25/Oct Solo O/S

Great warm up to the day, good conditions.

rockman 23/Sep Solo rpt
rockman 23/Sep Solo rpt
chancer 22/Aug Sent O/S
hipyhop 20/Jun Sent x
Hidden 03/Jun Sent
karol dubas 22/Apr Solo O/S

above pads

with Marcus
andy_e 19/Apr Solo O/S
amccann 27/Mar Solo O/S
with Nick
Nick1812P 27/Mar Sent O/S
with speedy
Hidden 21/Mar Sent
Jonathan Hall 21/Mar Solo
charley 03/Dec/14 Sent O/S
65m moderate millington 06/Nov/14 Solo β
Hidden 06/Nov/14 Solo O/S
woody99i 03/Nov/14 Solo O/S
MarkRoe 03/Nov/14 Solo rpt
eddiem1 05/Sep/14 TR O/S
andork123 30/Aug/14 Solo O/S

was rather dark and wet at the time, good fun though

sgl 16/Aug/14 Solo
Nick Sherring 23/Jul/14 Sent
gaz3212 11/Jul/14 Solo O/S
rockman 03/Jul/14 Solo rpt
Hidden 03/Jul/14 Solo rpt
Hidden 02/Jul/14 Solo rpt
Joe_Law ?/Jul/14 Sent
Hidden 18/Jun/14 Solo rpt
loco wilko ?/Jun/14 Sent
rockmunky 13/Apr/14 TR RP
with Dad
JoeWakefield 29/Mar/14 Sent O/S
robblowen 29/Mar/14 Sent O/S
mcrtchly ??/2014 -
Si dH 30/Aug/13 Sent O/S
with Neil Furniss
Wayne S 29/Aug/13 Solo
althesin 10/Aug/13 Solo
Paul Tanner 08/Jul/13 Solo O/S
Marti999 09/Jun/13 Solo O/S
AlexD 09/Jun/13 Solo
with Marti
Theeni 05/May/13 Solo O/S
with Joseph
Jonesy_A 04/May/13 Solo O/S
Hidden 18/Apr/13 Solo
Hidden 16/Apr/13 Sent
dr_botnik 15/Apr/13 Sent O/S
deacondeacon 15/Apr/13 Sent O/S

To the top

Heather Osborne 03/Apr/13 Sent O/S
with Craig Osborne, Rob Law, rhys whitehouse
Hidden 30/Mar/13 Solo O/S
Hidden 12/Mar/13 Sent rpt
CraigOsborne ??/2013 Solo O/S
Jake Young 02/Dec/12 Solo O/S
SED 16/Nov/12 Sent x

A good return and reminder of how much I dislike slabs.

kermit_uk 16/Nov/12 Sent x
with SED
Hidden 27/Oct/12 Sent rpt
Hidden 16/Oct/12 Sent rpt
JLS 10/Oct/12 Sent O/S
with Jacqui
Rich Malcolm 13/Sep/12 Solo β
rockman 13/Sep/12 TR O/S
timcedwards 13/Sep/12 TR
barni 24/Aug/12 Solo rpt
charlietorrance 12/Aug/12 Solo O/S
Hidden 07/Aug/12 Sent O/S
NickTay 03/Aug/12 Solo rpt
alisterrobbird 30/Jul/12 Sent
Dan Geh 25/Jul/12 Sent O/S
MarkRoe 18/Jul/12 Solo O/S
BRoe 12/Jul/12 Solo O/S
Jim Malo 01/Jul/12 Sent O/S
Graeme Hammond 25/Jun/12 Solo O/S
sting 02/Jun/12 Sent rpt
Hidden 02/Jun/12 Solo O/S
NickTay 13/May/12 Solo O/S

Nice place to sort your head out.

Alex.M-M. 05/May/12 Sent rpt
timmyhobby 06/Apr/12 Solo O/S
Ceridwen 06/Apr/12 Solo
with Tim Hobby
JMoss 06/Apr/12 TR
mapperley samurai 05/Apr/12 Solo

More of a bouler problem than trade. No gear placements. No mats used.

migs493 29/Mar/12 Sent O/S
with Paul W
SED 09/Mar/12 Sent x

Bailed the first time after a slip of the foot. Same slip the second time, but found the left foot to hand match and continued to finish.

hfac 26/Feb/12 Solo
Hidden 15/Jan/12 Sent O/S
Dave Bond 14/Jan/12 Sent
Lunar25 07/Jan/12 Solo O/S
with James Morrison, Dave LE
whitehouse_rhys ??/2012 Solo O/S
with ben roe
Eddie Shelbourne 27/Dec/11 Sent

Bailed right the first try. Had to man up and finish properly 2nd time around

with Terry harris-ellis
Hidden 02/Nov/11 Sent rpt
Hidden 15/Oct/11 -
Hidden 15/Oct/11 Lead
Bloke on a Rope 07/Sep/11 Solo O/S
Hidden 03/Sep/11 Solo O/S
adi bryant 19/Aug/11 Solo O/S
iamstebarker ?/Aug/11 Sent
Hidden 30/Jul/11 Sent x
Haydn Jones 24/Jul/11 Solo O/S
with paul
thrutch 29/Jun/11 Solo
John Lewis 05/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Maureen
Hidden 05/Jun/11 2nd O/S
Robin Nichols ?/Jun/11 Sent O/S
Alkis 08/May/11 -
kfv 27/Apr/11 Sent O/S
liambriddon1991 27/Apr/11 Sent O/S
pawdog 24/Apr/11 Solo O/S
kfv 23/Apr/11 Solo O/S
liambriddon1991 23/Apr/11 Sent O/S
Hidden 20/Apr/11 Sent O/S
gb83 16/Apr/11 Solo O/S

Bold but good. A bit polished in the crux.

masa-alpin 16/Apr/11 Sent O/S
Dhcol 11/Apr/11 Solo

I did this the year previous and forgot how bold the end is!! had a bit of shaky leg towards the end :-) and it didn't help my confidence when some people at the bottom that had just top roped it were saying that we must be mad.

CrashMat Rob 09/Apr/11 Solo O/S
with Nicky, Colin
Hidden 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S
TRFrost 24/Mar/11 Solo O/S
J25 24/Mar/11 Solo
oddessy_uk 23/Mar/11 Sent O/S
Hidden 23/Mar/11 Sent x
SPENCER41 23/Mar/11 Sent O/S
with Jason Curle
MD 30/Jan/11 Sent O/S
Hidden ??/2011 -
Byronius Maximus 19/Dec/10 Sent O/S
Hidden 17/Nov/10 Sent
Rampikino 17/Oct/10 TR
with Cat
Hidden 12/Oct/10 Solo O/S
dja 12/Oct/10 Solo O/S
Wayne.Gaudin 30/Aug/10 TR O/S

Matt and David

Daniel Heath 26/Aug/10 Solo O/S
deejmonkey 19/Aug/10 Solo
with Damian
Onion magnet 24/Jul/10 Solo O/S
katyc 24/Jul/10 Solo
Emma-Louise Anderson 05/Jul/10 Solo O/S

I was glad I stepped up and tried this... it looked far too high but once you were in the slab climbing zone it went super smoothly

tatz45 05/Jul/10 Solo O/S
Andy Peak 1 05/Jul/10 Solo
Hidden 20/Jun/10 Solo O/S
rob wmc 20/Jun/10 Solo O/S
with Alan
Hidden 03/Jun/10 Solo rpt
Ross Barnes ?/Apr/10 Sent
Mark Duncan 12/Mar/10 -
Sam1991 31/Jan/10 Solo β

Useful and encouraging beta from reuben on the psychological crux, trust your feet. nice route, bit highball!

with Andy J and Reuben
bigdrew 31/Jan/10 Solo β
Hidden ??/2010 Solo O/S
sgl0jd 12/Oct/09 -
tom.ireson 13/Sep/09 Sent O/S
with Alex Parkin
Hidden 15/Aug/09 Sent O/S
Hidden 09/Jul/09 Solo O/S
Hidden 09/Jul/09 Solo O/S
frankcp87 28/Jun/09 Solo
jsrous 28/Jun/09 Solo
with Frank and John
Hidden 03/May/09 Solo rpt
Hidden 25/Apr/09 Solo rpt
Sankey 23/Apr/09 Sent
with Wednesday nighters
Pilch 18/Apr/09 Solo O/S
Hidden 05/Apr/09 Sent O/S
timbanton 01/Mar/09 Sent
richardhopton 28/Feb/09 Solo

says VS is Eastern Grit??

with Matt Thombs
hughr 18/Jan/09 Sent x
powellj69 ??/2009 Sent
barni 30/Oct/08 Solo O/S
with Dave barry
SGD 25/Oct/08 Solo
mccaunt ?/Oct/08 Sent O/S
tomB 20/Sep/08 Solo O/S
jscoles 20/Sep/08 Solo
with Tom Baker
Hidden 15/Jun/08 Solo RP
john lynch 14/May/08 Sent
with mike lynch, bo robertson
Hidden 10/May/08 Solo O/S
Joe Costello 04/May/08 Sent O/S
with Liam
mic_b 13/Apr/08 Solo O/S
Russell Lovett 18/Mar/08 Solo O/S
with alone
tommo1664 06/Jan/08 Sent
daveagriff ??/2008 Solo
Slim Bert ??/2008 -
with dave
AntiGrav ??/2008 -
Hidden 01/Dec/07 Solo O/S
kitkat78 24/Nov/07 Sent O/S
with SteveM
SteveM 24/Nov/07 Sent rpt
with Kat
Hidden 09/Jul/07 Solo rpt
gibbo38 01/Jun/07 Solo O/S
with Robert
Hidden 14/Apr/07 Solo O/S
Hidden 31/Mar/07 Solo dnf
Hidden 31/Mar/07 Solo
Matt Fry 16/Mar/07 Solo O/S
with Ali Scott
Owen W-G 03/Feb/07 Solo O/S

With, then without mat.

with Robin, Anthony & Jody
Tom Last 30/Dec/06 Solo O/S

Not hard anywhere. Not hard at the top. Not really HVS either, or I'll eat my hat.

with Keith
Oli 30/Nov/06 Solo rpt
Hidden 30/Nov/06 Solo O/S
Alfredo ?/Nov/06 Solo
Creinu 30/Sep/06 Solo O/S
Peakphil ?/Aug/06 Solo
Swirly 15/Jul/06 Solo O/S
with Rob and Ceri
Pythonist 13/May/06 Solo rpt
Monk 05/May/06 Solo O/S
SGD 06/Feb/06 Solo O/S

thin but good - fluttery at the top

with Sam Carter
Hidden ?/Apr/05 Solo
Dave Mason ??/2005 Solo O/S
julian allen 16/Sep/04 -
zcapxa5 20/Jun/04 Solo O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/04 Solo O/S
Budge 08/Apr/04 Solo O/S
Climb Rox ?/Apr/04 Solo
Mark Collins 27/Nov/03 Solo O/S
climbingrev 21/Aug/03 Solo RP

Confidence is the key. Chickened out briefly, but got back on with it.

Peakology ??/2003 Sent O/S
with cat
chrishedgehog 28/Jul/02 Solo O/S
with C. Parfitt
Hidden 21/Apr/02 Sent O/S
DerwentDiluted 08/Sep/01 Solo
alan moore ??/2000 -
EddieA ?/Nov/96 Solo O/S
Backinthegame 02/May/92 Solo
Rob Davies 15/Sep/91 Solo
Hidden 06/Sep/91 Solo
Laramadness 03/Sep/90 Solo
goi.ashmore 15/Jun/90 Sent O/S
nai ??/1990 Solo
andrew300169 ??/1990 -
Hidden ??/1989 Sent O/S
Iain Thow 16/Jul/88 Solo
Ian Archer 06/May/88 Solo O/S
Roget ??/1987 Solo rpt
with jim
Chris the Tall ?/Dec/86 Solo O/S
Ena ?/Aug/86 Solo
John Brayshaw 01/Jun/82 Solo O/S
dangerdave ?/Jun/80 Solo
Ghastly Rubberfeet ??/1979 Lead
rogerskews ??/1976 Solo
with CMC Members
Hidden 22/Dec/74 Solo
Hidden 26/May/74 TR
mikej 23/Mar/74 Solo
with Nigel Sumner
mikej 06/May/73 Solo
with E
mikej 18/Feb/73 Solo
mikej 01/Oct/72 Solo
with Geoff Williams
mikej 09/Jul/72 Solo
with E
mikej 09/May/71 Solo
with Dave Williams, E
mikej 06/Apr/71 Solo
with Stewart Grant
mikej 24/Mar/71 Solo
mikej 27/Feb/71 Solo
with E
mikej 05/Apr/70 Solo
with Martin Wragg
mikej 08/Jun/69 Solo
with Alan Booth, Mike Browne, E
mikej 03/May/69 Solo
with Mike Browne, John Bickerdyke, Geoff Williams
mikej 30/Mar/69 Solo
with E
mikej 22/Mar/69 Solo
with E
Andy Say ??/1969 Solo
mikej 18/Oct/67 Solo
with Geoff Williams
mikej 23/Nov/66 Solo
with Keith Gregson
mikej 09/Nov/66 Solo
with Keith Gregson
mikej 06/Apr/66 Solo

This route was once a very pleasant Severe. But in the late 60s I found that the sharp edged chipped holds had been smashed making the route considerably harder.

with Ted Markham
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
jimmysdead, David T Harris, Hidden, Hidden, Tom F Harding
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 23
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 22
Votes cast 21
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set