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These details were last updated on 10/Aug/2010

Black Rocks

Derbyshire, ENGLAND

Climbs 151 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 250m a.s.l – Faces N

Crag features
A dark imposing bastion with huge prows and impressive side walls, split by fine cracks and home to some of the best slopers on grit. Exposed, quick drying, but lower sections on North face greasy/green after rain. Big history, follow in the footsteps of the gritstone greats, Putrell (Stonnis Crack, S 4a), Piggott (Sand Buttress , HVS 4c), Harding (Demon Rib, E4 5c, Prom. Traverse, E2 5b), Dawes (Gaia E8 6c - THE route of the crag) and Grieve (Meshugu, E9 6c).

Superb 'extended bouldering' (take a mat!) on The Block.

Weather forecast

 Today  Sat  Sun  Mon  Tue 

0.0mm rain
Sun
7 °C
14 kph

0.0mm rain
Sun
9 °C
22 kph

2.7mm rain
Sunny periods
12 °C
34 kph

1.0mm rain
Sunny periods
11 °C
27 kph

1.9mm rain
Cloudy
12 °C
17 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online
More: mwis: Peak District & Yorkshire DalesMet Office: Peak District

Guidebooks
Peak Bouldering (2014), Froggatt to Black Rocks (2010), Peak SE Pokketz (2007), Eastern Grit (2006), On Peak Rock (2003), Peak Climbs - Chatsworth (1996),
Out of print: Rock climbs in the Peak - Derwent valley (1981)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
1Percy (Boulder problem #1)V3 (6a) 31
2Henry (Boulder problem #2)V0 (5a) *43
3TrevorV0 (5a) *100
4Thomas EliminateV6 4
5Thomas (Boulder problem #3)V4 (6b) **25
6Toby (Boulder problem #4)V0- 4b *87
7Gordon (Boulder problem #5)V0- 4a *113
8Edward (Boulder problem #6)V0 (5a) 32
9The Fat Controller (Boulder prob #7)V4 (6b) 10
10Left Hand Side of SlabV1 5b *11
11Route 2 (Slab problem #1)VS 5a *164
12Island of Sodor (Slab problem #2)HVS 5c *89
13Route 1 (Slab problem #3)HVS 4c *198
14Duck (Slab problem #4)M 52
15Mallardf3+ 13
16Railway RibV0 5a 7
17Harold (Slab problem #5)V6 (6b) *8
18The Bufferf5+ 9
19CrackedM 21
20ObverseVD 12
21East CrackHVD 14
22Mental PygmyE3 6a *2
23New Year ButtressHVD 48
24Queen's Parlour SlabVS 4b **76
25Queen's Parlour GullyD **158
26Original RouteS 4a *53
27Queen's Parlour ChimneyHS 4b *25
28The RaungeHS 4b  
29Pine Tree GullyD 26
30Birch Tree ClimbVD 6
31Pirate's StaircaseM 13
32Green CrackHVS 5a 4
33Black CrackVS 4c *21
34Central ButtressHVD 3c ***114
35Central Buttress DirectE1 5a *39
36Central Buttress ChimneyVS 4c 3
37Soft RushE6 6a **1
38Blind Man's CrackVD 4a *63
39Blind Man's ButtressVD 4a *20
40Left Promontory GullyD 44
41Rope TrickE2 5c **1
42LongshipsE2 5b *1
43FirebirdE2 5c **21
44Prominent Tory ReverseE2 5c *1
45MeshugaE9 6c ***5
46A Day at the PromE4 6b  
47ProminenceE3 6a * 
48Kit KatE3 6a *1
49Promontory TraverseE1 5b ***44
50Twisted SmileHVS 5b *2
51Right Promontory GullyM *67
52Right Promontory RibS 4a 3
53Stonnis Arete VariationsVD 4a *18
54Stonnis AreteS 4a **120
55The Eighth FoldE6 6c **1
56Ladykiller PeakE3 6b * 
57Fireworks for the BlindE4 6a 1
58Stonnis CrackHS 4b **274
59DiscombobulatorE5 6c **2
60Caught SmilingE6 7a * 
61Sand ButtressVS 4c ***215
62UntowardE5 6b *2
63Sand GullyD *71
64Right Hand ExitHVD *11
65Camel HotE6 6b ***4
66The Indirect StartE2 5c 9
67Lean Man's ClimbVS 5a ***169
68Feeding the PonyE8 6c *1
69The Superstitious StartHVS 5b *2
70Lean Man's SuperdirectVS 4c ***29
71Fat Man's ChimneyD *64
72Lean Man's EliminateVS 4c *12
73Branch ChimneyM 40
74GomorrahE1 6a 3
75The SprainE2 5b *37
76Liquid AbsE5 6b * 
77Smears for Earsf7A+ **1
 Climb nameGradex
78GoodmotorfingerE5 6c * 
79BadmotorfingerE5 6c *3
80Twin CracksVD 31
81Finale WallHVS 4b 8
82Finale Slab Left-handE1 5b *15
83Finale Slab Right-handE2 5b *10
84Cybertron MissionE6 6b **3
85Curtain CallE2 5b 12
86Lawyer's ChimneyVD 22
87Chancery SlabVS 4c 16
88Our KidE4 5c 3
89Slanted and EnchantedE6 6b * 
90Jammed Stone ChimneyVS 4c 3
91Curved CrackHS 4b 51
92Curve BallV3 5c **1
93Kra S'HoanVS 4b 20
94Noah's ArkVS 4b 10
95GaiaE8 6c ***21
96Harder FasterE9 7a * 
97Taxi to the Cragf7B *3
98Through the K-holeE7 6b *1
99Curving AreteE5 6b ***12
100Birch Tree Wall VariationsHVS 5a **165
101<New route claim>The Leaching Birch TreeHVS 5b ***1
102Birch Tree WallVS 5a ***358
103Birch Tree Wall EliminateE4 6b **5
104Demon RibE3 5c **34
105Lone Tree GrooveVS 5a **356
106Lone Tree GullyS 4a **347
107Occam's RaisinE5 6b *1
108PseudonymE5 6b **8
109Hat Trickf7A ***12
110Route 66f7C 6c ***2
111The Devil Is In The DetailsE7 7a **2
112Fun TraverseE4 6b *6
113Non Stick VicarV8 6c 1
114South GullyVD 4a 130
115South CornerHVS 4c 34
116South Gully RibS 4a 29
117Bad Hair DayE4 6b 16
118The RunnelE2 6b 17
119Fat Girl Rodeof7B * 
120Slab EndD 146
121DiagonalHS 5a 15
122Shredded FeetE3 6b *2
123Small ThingsE6 6c *3
124Golden DaysE3 6a *50
125Jumping on a BeetleE7 6c *9
126The Angel's ShareE8 7a **5
127Velvet SilenceE6 6c **15
128Tree CrackHVS 5b 11
 UPPER ROCKS  
130Crack and FaceV0+ 5b 15
131Valerie Ann, I'm Desperate DanV0- 5a 15
132RubyV0+ 5b 13
133Easy SlabV0- 4b 13
134DollyV3 6a 6
135Ledge ClimbV2 5c 9
136Maybellef6B+ **3
137APV1 5c 14
138The ClamV1 5c 13
139Flaked SlabV0- 4b 10
140King Edwardf7C 6c ***8
141Hot Dog SnifferE6 6a **4
142RafflesE3 5b 2
 ANGEL BOULDER  
144Easy AreteV0+ 5b 3
145Megalythic ManV6 6b 1
146NeanderthalV4 6a 1
147Angel DelightV7 6c  
148Easier AreteV0- 4a 2
149HushVS 4c **4
150My Pet DaddyE5 6a *1
151East Arête *S 2
152Slab and Table *HVD 1
153VJ Crack *VS 4c  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
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Access notes
From Cromford follow road to Wirksworth (B5036)for 3/4 mile. Rocks (and picnic site!) are signed to the left.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Classifieds
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer mungo

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
"Rough, round, big, ugly, hard and unforgiving." A perfect description of the climbing and the people you are likely to encounter on a weekend trip to Black Rocks. Shame really as it has some of the best lines on grit. If you fancy it go during the week or evening, outside holidays.
nathanlee - 29/Jul/11

It was ever thus... Lots of names carved into the rock on the top - some of it quite artistic, some of it "AB luvs CD" etc. Some of it very new and some has been there for generations. Yobs? Not really, but plenty of weekend gawpers..."Oh look there's one! There's one!" Was the cry when the little group appeared on the skyline and pointed at us. Shame about the litter - lots of this. If you can put up with being gawped at then you will find some tough testpieces in a reather testing environment. The grades are a little less than generous for grit but there are some fantastic routes. A friend of mine once remarked that no birds sing at Black Rocks...nothing sinister about that - it's just that the sound of dogs, prams, bikes, shrieking people and cars drowns them out. Enjoy!
Rampikino - 18/Oct/10

Rough, round, big, ugly, hard and unforgiving, everything gritstone should be! One of the best gritstone crags in the Peak for hard climbing. If you want your grit technique to improve its a toss up between here, or the cowperstone. Shame about the yobs, i reckon you get an extra 'E' point for each empty can of stella you get thrown at you whilst ur on the lead.
tom allsop - 13/Oct/09

Taught climbing to an old friend there today. I was embarrassed with the rubbish, fosters cans and broken glass everywhere. Apart from that, there are some great routes, probably not the best crag for teaching a beginner on though...
Mattu - 22/Jun/09

Yes its a bit green on the off side but never mind, great climbs, sunset view point after the rounded gritstone struggles. To the people who post 'wont be returning to this one' good riddance dont come back!! xxx
ktmdave - 08/May/08

Went on sunday, beautiful day for climbing unfortunately most of the climbing here was poor. Obviously underclimbed as everything apart from the birch tree wall area was very green and slippery and most of the routes up to VS on birch tree wall were very polished. Shame as what we did do had a lot of potential and some of the routes are pretty high for gritstone. Still probably won't come back here again - at least the reports of Chav's and beer cans proved unfounded.
timbo - 31/Aug/05

went on saturday,took children to it,had an excellent day,no yobs of people,would go again
rachel - 06/Jun/05

Not impressed at all. Most of it very very green despite being June, sadly defaced by names cared into the rock, and frequented by grubby chavs swigging from cans of lager in the middle of the day who appear to think nothing of littering the place with their empties. Safe to say that we won't be coming back.
Dave - 05/Jun/05

An excellent crag - can be abit wet on the north facing area but loads of excellent routes and bouldering (with a mat) - it is sometimes abit litter strewn but i've never had problems with yobs throwing cans either (i feel i'm missing out!)
mark pollak - 31/Jul/04

Some excellent routes, but the crag suffers more than most from local yobs leaving litter, and from large groups of top-roping kids with dirty trainers damaging the routes :(
Nick Smith - 12/Jul/04

My local crag for the last 30 years and despite climbing there literally hundreds of times I always find it to be one of my favourite gritstone crags and not once in all those years have I ever seen anyone carving their name in the rock or throwing cans off the top. It has to be said though that some of the carvings are quite ingenious, the weeing donkey being a favourite with my children.
jonathan shepherd - 11/Jul/04

This crag is ideal for novices to experts, best avoided on weekends when total idiots decide to take hours chiselling their names into the face whilst drinking Stella and hurling their cans upon anyone attempting some of the excellent climbs! Watch out for broken glass on the ledges and make sure the cracks are clear before you hand-jam.
Stephen Farrer - 11/Jun/04

The first derbyshire gritstone crag I laid eyes on and it was enough to get me addicted! Found alot of the VS level routes absolutely nails and Stonis crackspat me off atleast four times. Ten years later I got back on it and it is still hard. My mate got his foot stuck in it for five minutes!! Prom traverse is one of my favourite routes..... Indeed an excellent crag.
Dave Evans - 08/Jun/04

Great!
BU - 26/Aug/03

A beast of a place. Some execellent routes, albeit a bit green in places. Easy access with nearby car parking below the crag. Shame about all the carvings in the rocks by mindless morons.
DS - 26/Jun/03

On reading my old diary from 1947 I see where Birch Tree Wall was a real bugger. As I remember it it was a lay-back up the crack but the slopping ledge to the left was a worse bugger,no hand holds 54 years ago I still remember sticking my hand in a crack then twisting it for a hold. Feeling sharp one early morning I detirmine to do her without a rope I nearly became religist that morn. Other climbs in my diary is Palm tree gally and groove, Lean\'s Ordinary,Q.P.slap,I dare say on the end of a rope.
Ralph H. Brailsford - 31/Aug/02