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These details were last updated on 24/Jun/2014

Black Rocks

Derbyshire, ENGLAND

Climbs 181 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 250m a.s.l – Faces NW

Crag features
A dark imposing bastion with huge prows and impressive side walls, split by fine cracks and home to some of the best slopers on grit. Can make a big first impression (see comments!) but time spent adjusting to the place will be well rewarded.

A historically important venue- follow in the footsteps of gritstone greats such as Puttrell (Stonnis Crack, HS 4b), Piggott (Sand Buttress, VS 4c), Harding (Demon Rib, E3 5c, Promontory Traverse, E1/2 5b), Dawes (Gaia, E8 6c) and Grieve (Meshuga, E9 6c).

Exposed and quick drying, but lower sections on the north face can be green and stay damp after rain.

Sadly many non-climbing visitors leave their rubbish here- doing your bit to remove some of this is proven to earn karmic protection on the bolder routes.

Access notes
From Cromford follow road to Wirksworth (B5036) for 3/4 mile. Rocks (and picnic site!) are signed to the left.

Pay & display parking but there are a few roadside bays opposite the higher car park entrance.

A short but uphill walk from Cromford rail station.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Weather forecast

 Today  Wed  Thu  Fri  Sat 

0.1mm rain
Sun
20 °C
11 kph

0.0mm rain
Sunny periods
17 °C
18 kph

0.0mm rain
Sun
18 °C
12 kph

0.0mm rain
Sun
21 °C
9 kph

1.0mm rain
Sun
19 °C
13 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online
More: mwis: Peak District & Yorkshire DalesMet Office: Peak District

Guidebooks
Peak Bouldering (2014), Peak District: Bouldering (2011), Froggatt to Black Rocks (2010), Peak SE Pokketz (2007), Eastern Grit (2006), On Peak Rock (2003), Peak Climbs - Chatsworth (1996), Derwent Gritstone (1985),
Out of print: Peak Gritstone East (2001), Rock Climbing in thge Peak District (1987), Rock climbs in the Peak - Derwent valley (1981)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs Add missing Climb Upload a file of missing climbs
 Climb nameGradex
 RAILWAY BOULDER  
2Percy (Boulder problem #1)f6A 32
3Henry (Boulder problem #2)f3+ *46
4Trevorf5+ *107
5Thomas (Boulder problem #3)f6B **28
6Thomas Eliminatef6C+ 4
7Toby (Boulder problem #4)f2+ *91
8Gordon (Boulder problem #5)f4 *118
9Edward (Boulder problem #6)f4+ 34
10The Fat Controller (Boulder prob #7)f6B 10
 RAILWAY SLABS  
12Route 2 Left Handf5 *14
13Route 2 (Slab problem #1)VS 5a 171
14Island of Sodor (Slab problem #2)HVS 5c *91
15Route 1 (Slab problem #3)VS 4c *205
16Duck (Slab problem #4)M 55
17Mallardf3+ 19
18Railway Ribf4 11
19Harold (Slab problem #5)f6B+ *8
20The Bufferf5+ 11
 QUARRY BUTTRESS  
22CrackedM 23
23ObverseVD 13
24CrackersE1 5b  
25Physical GraffitiE3 6b  
 QUEEN'S PARLOUR  
27MarmotteE5 6b  
28HushVS 4c *6
29VJ CrackVS 4c  
30Benjamin BicklesthwaiteE4 6a  
31East CrackHVD 17
32Mental PygmyE3 6a *2
33New Year ButtressHVD 51
34RastafarianismE3 5c  
35Queen's Parlour SlabVS 4b **83
36Queen's Parlour GullyVD **171
37Queen's Parlour ChimneyHS 4b *26
38Original RouteS 4a *58
39DynoMightE7 6b * 
40The RaungeHS 4b 1
41MoonchildE7 6c  
42Pine Tree GullyD 29
43Birch Tree ClimbS 4a 8
 CENTRAL BUTTRESS  
45Pirate's StaircaseM 15
46Green CrackHVS 5a 4
47Black CrackVS 4c *24
48Stonnis PinnacleHD *1
49Central ButtressHVD 3c ***134
50Central Buttress DirectE1 5a *42
51Central Buttress ChimneyVS 4c 3
52Soft RushE6 6a **1
53Blind Man's CrackVD 4a *71
54Blind Man's ButtressVD 4a *20
 THE PROMONTORY  
56Left Promontory GullyD 47
57Rope TrickE2 5c **1
58Vikings in a Sea of SweatE2 5c  
59LongshipsE2 5b *1
60FirebirdE2 5c **21
61The BounderXS 6?  
62MeshugaE9 6c ***5
63Pog's WallE4 6b  
64A Day at the PromE4 6b * 
65Kit KatE3 6a *1
66Promontory TraverseE1 5b ***45
67The Easy Exit (Promontory Nose)E1 5b  
68Prominent Tory ReverseE2 5c *1
69Twisted SmileHVS 5b *3
70Lucky JimHVS 5a  
71Right Promontory GullyM *72
72Right Promontory RibS 4a 3
73Green WallHS 4c  
 SAND BUTTRESS  
75SilicosisE1 5c  
76Garden Wall TraverseVS 4c  
77Stonnis Arete VariationsVD 4a *22
78Stonnis AreteS 4a **135
79The Eighth FoldE6 6c **1
80Ladykiller PeakE3 6b * 
81Fireworks for the BlindE4 6a 1
82Stonnis CrackHS 4b **292
83DiscombobulatorE5 6c **2
84Caught SmilingE6 7a * 
85Sand ButtressVS 4c ***224
86UntowardE5 6b *2
87Sand GullyD *72
 LEAN MAN'S BUTTRESS  
89Right Hand ExitHVD *11
90Camel HotE6 6b ***4
91The Indirect StartE2 5c 9
92Lean Man's ClimbVS 5a ***174
93Feeding the PonyE8 6c *1
94The Superstitious StartHVS 5b *3
95Lean Man's SuperdirectVS 4c ***31
96Fat Man's ChimneyD *66
97Branch ChimneyM 41
98Cider FrenzyE3 6a  
99Lean Man's EliminateVS 4c *12
 Climb nameGradex
 FINALE AREA  
101The Nuage TravellerE3 5c  
102GomorrahE1 6a 3
103The SprainE2 5b *39
104Liquid AbsE5 6b * 
105Smears for Earsf7A+ **1
106GoodmotorfingerE5 6c * 
107BadmotorfingerE5 6c *3
108Twin CracksVD 32
109Finale WallHVS 4b 8
110Curtain Call (Finale Slab Left-hand)E2 5b *28
111Finale Wall Direct (Finale Slab Right-hand)E2 5b **10
112Cybertron MissionE6 6b **3
113Lawyer's ChimneyVD 22
114Chancery SlabVS 4c 16
115Chancery GrooveM 2
116Our KidE4 5c 3
117Slanted and EnchantedE6 6b * 
118Jammed Stone ChimneyVS 4c 3
 GAIA BUTTRESS  
120Gayerf6C  
121Goyaf7C  
122Curved CrackHS 4b 55
123Curve Ballf6B **1
124Kra S'HoanVS 4b 20
125Noah's ArkVS 4b 10
126GaiaE8 6c ***21
127Harder FasterE9 7a * 
128Taxi to the Cragf7B *3
129Through the K-holeE7 6b *1
130Curving AreteE5 6b ***13
 WEST WALL  
132Bring Back the BirchE5 6a  
133Birch Tree Wall VariationsHVS 5a **171
134Birch Tree Wall- variation startVS 4c ** 
135Desert Island Discof6C  
136Birch Tree Wall- variation finish (The Leaching Birch Tree)HVS 5b ***1
137Birch Tree WallVS 5a ***369
138Birch Tree Wall EliminateE4 6b **5
139The CriticE3 5c * 
140Demon RibE3 5c **35
141Lone Tree GrooveVS 5a **375
142Lone Tree GullyS 4a **361
143Occam's RaisinE5 6b *1
144Route 66f7C ***2
145PseudonymE5 6b **8
146The Devil Is In The DetailsE7 7a **2
147Hat Trickf7A ***12
148Non Stick Vicarf7B+ 1
149Black Book JohnE7 6c  
150Fun TraverseE4 6b *6
151South Gully RibHS 4b 29
152South GullyVD 4a 138
153South CornerHVS 4c 35
154Bad Hair DayE4 6b 16
155Runnel Rib Direct FinishE4 6b  
156Runnel RibE1 6b  
157Fat Girl Rodeof7B * 
158The RunnelE2 6b 17
159Slab EndD 153
 THE BLOCK  
161Diagonalf4 17
162Shredded FeetE3 6b *2
163Small ThingsE6 6c *3
164Golden DaysE3 6a *50
165Jumping on a BeetleE7 6c *9
166The Angel's ShareE8 7a **5
167Velvet SilenceE6 6c **15
168Make it SlappyE6 6c  
169Tree CrackHVS 5b 12
170Excellent SocksHVS 5b  
171DampS 4b  
172DryS 4a 1
 UPPER ROCKS  
174Crack and Facef5 17
175Valerie Ann, I'm Desperate Danf4+ 17
176Rubyf5 15
177Easy Slabf3+ 15
178Dollyf6B *6
179Ledge Climbf5+ 10
180Maybellef6B+ **3
181APf5 15
182The Clamf5+ 15
183Flaked Slabf3 12
184King Edwardf7B+ ***8
 ANGEL BOULDER  
186Easy Aretef4+ 3
187Megalythic Manf7A 1
188Neanderthalf6B 1
189Angel Delightf7A+  
190Easier Aretef2 2
 NEAR EAST BUTTRESS  
192Slab and TableHVD 1
193East ArêteS *2
 FAR EAST BUTTRESS  
195Hot Dog SnifferE6 6a **4
196RafflesE3 5b 2
 HIDDEN QUARRIED BUTTRESS  
198My Pet DaddyE5 6a *1
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
"Rough, round, big, ugly, hard and unforgiving." A perfect description of the climbing and the people you are likely to encounter on a weekend trip to Black Rocks. Shame really as it has some of the best lines on grit. If you fancy it go during the week or evening, outside holidays.
nathanlee - 29/Jul/11

It was ever thus... Lots of names carved into the rock on the top - some of it quite artistic, some of it "AB luvs CD" etc. Some of it very new and some has been there for generations. Yobs? Not really, but plenty of weekend gawpers..."Oh look there's one! There's one!" Was the cry when the little group appeared on the skyline and pointed at us. Shame about the litter - lots of this. If you can put up with being gawped at then you will find some tough testpieces in a reather testing environment. The grades are a little less than generous for grit but there are some fantastic routes. A friend of mine once remarked that no birds sing at Black Rocks...nothing sinister about that - it's just that the sound of dogs, prams, bikes, shrieking people and cars drowns them out. Enjoy!
Rampikino - 18/Oct/10

Rough, round, big, ugly, hard and unforgiving, everything gritstone should be! One of the best gritstone crags in the Peak for hard climbing. If you want your grit technique to improve its a toss up between here, or the cowperstone. Shame about the yobs, i reckon you get an extra 'E' point for each empty can of stella you get thrown at you whilst ur on the lead.
tom allsop - 13/Oct/09

Taught climbing to an old friend there today. I was embarrassed with the rubbish, fosters cans and broken glass everywhere. Apart from that, there are some great routes, probably not the best crag for teaching a beginner on though...
Mattu - 22/Jun/09

Yes its a bit green on the off side but never mind, great climbs, sunset view point after the rounded gritstone struggles. To the people who post 'wont be returning to this one' good riddance dont come back!! xxx
ktmdave - 08/May/08

Went on sunday, beautiful day for climbing unfortunately most of the climbing here was poor. Obviously underclimbed as everything apart from the birch tree wall area was very green and slippery and most of the routes up to VS on birch tree wall were very polished. Shame as what we did do had a lot of potential and some of the routes are pretty high for gritstone. Still probably won't come back here again - at least the reports of Chav's and beer cans proved unfounded.
timbo - 31/Aug/05

went on saturday,took children to it,had an excellent day,no yobs of people,would go again
rachel - 06/Jun/05

Not impressed at all. Most of it very very green despite being June, sadly defaced by names cared into the rock, and frequented by grubby chavs swigging from cans of lager in the middle of the day who appear to think nothing of littering the place with their empties. Safe to say that we won't be coming back.
Dave - 05/Jun/05

An excellent crag - can be abit wet on the north facing area but loads of excellent routes and bouldering (with a mat) - it is sometimes abit litter strewn but i've never had problems with yobs throwing cans either (i feel i'm missing out!)
mark pollak - 31/Jul/04

Some excellent routes, but the crag suffers more than most from local yobs leaving litter, and from large groups of top-roping kids with dirty trainers damaging the routes :(
Nick Smith - 12/Jul/04

My local crag for the last 30 years and despite climbing there literally hundreds of times I always find it to be one of my favourite gritstone crags and not once in all those years have I ever seen anyone carving their name in the rock or throwing cans off the top. It has to be said though that some of the carvings are quite ingenious, the weeing donkey being a favourite with my children.
jonathan shepherd - 11/Jul/04

This crag is ideal for novices to experts, best avoided on weekends when total idiots decide to take hours chiselling their names into the face whilst drinking Stella and hurling their cans upon anyone attempting some of the excellent climbs! Watch out for broken glass on the ledges and make sure the cracks are clear before you hand-jam.
Stephen Farrer - 11/Jun/04

The first derbyshire gritstone crag I laid eyes on and it was enough to get me addicted! Found alot of the VS level routes absolutely nails and Stonis crackspat me off atleast four times. Ten years later I got back on it and it is still hard. My mate got his foot stuck in it for five minutes!! Prom traverse is one of my favourite routes..... Indeed an excellent crag.
Dave Evans - 08/Jun/04

Great!
BU - 26/Aug/03

A beast of a place. Some execellent routes, albeit a bit green in places. Easy access with nearby car parking below the crag. Shame about all the carvings in the rocks by mindless morons.
DS - 26/Jun/03

On reading my old diary from 1947 I see where Birch Tree Wall was a real bugger. As I remember it it was a lay-back up the crack but the slopping ledge to the left was a worse bugger,no hand holds 54 years ago I still remember sticking my hand in a crack then twisting it for a hold. Feeling sharp one early morning I detirmine to do her without a rope I nearly became religist that morn. Other climbs in my diary is Palm tree gally and groove, Lean\'s Ordinary,Q.P.slap,I dare say on the end of a rope.
Ralph H. Brailsford - 31/Aug/02