Rockfax Description
This fine crack was left out of the earliest guides as it was thought to be unjustifiably dangerous! Now it gives pleasant climbing to an awkward and rapid exit left. Much harder if you can't jam, but then it would be wouldn't it? © Rockfax

FA. J.W.Puttrell 1900

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, Puttrell's Progress, Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List, Eastern Peak Grit 100 VD- VS, Hard Grit history, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, Peak Rock/1/ The 1st Peak District Tigers., A Severe Day Out in 1949 at BLACK ROCKS, Stonnis Allstars.

Blake 25/Oct Lead O/S

Bit of a one move wonder... nice thoughtful grit

jimmysdead 25/Oct 2nd
with Blake
lewiz 18/Oct Lead O/S

Hard! No doubt easy if you can jam :P

with Yan Mao
Hidden 18/Oct 2nd RP
chrismadar 04/Oct 2nd O/S
Gordon W 04/Oct Lead O/S

Barefoot, forgot shoes

SP 03/Oct Lead
LakesWinter 27/Sep 2nd


Hidden 27/Sep Lead
tobyk 24/Sep Lead O/S
MaxR 24/Sep 2nd
mapperley samurai 12/Aug Lead rpt
with Paul Bojko
merlin138 08/Aug Lead rpt
Alex Handley 08/Aug Lead β

First trad route in a long time

whitehouse_rhys 25/Jul Solo O/S
Radical-G 28/Jun 2nd O/S
Jack Whiteley 27/Jun Lead β
JEP 23/Jun Lead O/S
Hoyes 23/Jun Lead O/S
belay bunny turned bad 01/May Lead O/S
with soph
ashtond6 01/May Solo O/S
soph 01/May 2nd
andy_e 19/Apr Lead dog
ben.phillips 19/Apr 2nd O/S
Hidden 18/Apr Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Apr 2nd rpt
Hidden 18/Apr 2nd
Lukem6 18/Apr Lead rpt

For Stonnis - the Black rocks movie

Hidden 18/Apr Lead O/S
davewsargent 15/Apr 2nd
with jeff ingman, jon shields
amccann 27/Mar Solo O/S
with Nick
Nick1812P 27/Mar Solo O/S
with speedy
Somerset swede basher 26/Aug/14 Solo O/S
with Katharine
Russ 10/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Nice one, airy exit, felt not so easy

with sarah brookes
Sarah Brookes 09/Aug/14 2nd O/S
Lukem6 31/Jul/14 Lead rpt
with tom perry
Hidden 27/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Wayne S 24/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Good steady jamming, stops when it starts to get good!

Hidden 24/Jul/14 Lead dnf
Alex Hallam 10/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Classic route, Kit dogged up it eventually. Think he's starting to understand crack climbing?

Mongoose 05/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Anya
davidalcock 14/Jun/14 2nd
mapperley samurai 14/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Bit short lived. Shame it doesn't go on longer.

sjbrook 12/Jun/14 Lead dog
with PCC
Hidden 03/Jun/14 Lead dnf
hipyhop 17/May/14 Lead rpt

With the photogenic arete finish this time.

with cheque
Hidden 17/May/14 Lead RP
bullybones 14/May/14 2nd
with Neil
scott.hill 05/May/14 2nd O/S
Mike Soulby 05/May/14 Lead dog

ran out of steam near the top, had to rest before finishing the final moves out left. good fun!

Hidden 04/May/14 2nd
lem 26/Apr/14 Lead dog

First lead on gritstone and first trad lead in over ten years. It's good to be back and what the f*ck was I doing all that time? Finally touching grit was a religious experience. Plus it really is as wierd and hard as they say. We love us up it

DrMicky 26/Apr/14 2nd dog

Nearly had a whitey on the ledge ... hs? ... Awesome first time grit though :D

with Lemmy
Hidden 19/Apr/14 Lead
alooker 13/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Nipped in for this slice of history! Solid jams great stuff.

Hidden 11/Apr/14 Lead
timreynolds 11/Apr/14 2nd
with Ian
spenser 09/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Easy climbing up to a no hands rest, took a while to psych myself up to leave the rest! Hard for the grade but absolutely worth doing!

with Eve Lancashire
Hidden 09/Apr/14 2nd O/S
tgeh 05/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with imogene
ifletcher 05/Apr/14 2nd O/S
with tgeh
jwhereat 11/Jan/14 Lead
IanGilbertJones ??/2014 -
Rockafella 24/Nov/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Sep/13 Lead dnf
GermanAlex 22/Sep/13 Lead O/S

never wanted to do it, Robby went for the lead but backed off, pulled ropes, and up I went that beast of an HS. tradguy put it very well: go hard or go home! that being said, the route does sport a very nice hands-free rest just before moving left

with Robby
Brannock 22/Sep/13 2nd


jamie ward 20/Sep/13 Lead O/S

This is stiff for HS! steep, strenuous and committing

with Shaun Blower
pearson9596 26/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Caroline Culwick, Lizzie Culwick
Hidden 26/Aug/13 Lead
Hidden 01/Aug/13 Lead
ERH ?/Aug/13 Lead O/S
tradguy 14/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Full value, go hard or go home.

with Rob Munday, Mark Hazell
quickdrawmcraw 26/Jun/13 Lead O/S
robblowen 01/Jun/13 2nd β
with Munch, Jules
munch88 01/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with rob
Hidden 01/Jun/13 2nd O/S
hipyhop 20/May/13 Lead O/S
with Cherelle, LazyTraveller
tsjx 19/May/13 2nd
with Bruce
Lazytraveller ?/May/13 Lead β
davewsargent 17/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with paul t
deacondeacon 15/Apr/13 Lead

Led on gear from a previous ascent.

the power 15/Apr/13 2nd
with deacon, rob
dr_botnik 15/Apr/13 Lead O/S

found this quite strenuous

scotty h ??/2013 2nd dog

tough climb, and I got my foot well and truly stuck, then I rested and it ended up at head height, still stuck near the top of the crack. Plenty of gear though, tough to get out when your climber takes a lead fall on it.

with Martin Leonard
dan_blair87 ??/2013 Lead
SED 16/Nov/12 2nd O/S

No idea how to jam. Turns out in ok at jamming. A good battle on second.

kermit_uk 16/Nov/12 Lead rpt
with SED
karol dubas 26/Oct/12 Lead β
with Phil Sadler
Hidden 06/Oct/12 Lead O/S
Phil Layton 22/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Phil Laxton
Dan818 14/Sep/12 TR O/S
rockman 13/Sep/12 Lead O/S

A good battle - Thought the top crack was the crux?

timcedwards 13/Sep/12 2nd
Hidden 25/Aug/12 Lead O/S
JamieSparkes 16/Aug/12 Lead O/S

nice little jamming route

Alex.M-M. 12/Aug/12 Lead rpt
charlietorrance 12/Aug/12 2nd RP

learning how to jam- som amazing jams on this route! scary move out left at the top of crack if you are leading!

Rachel Slater 04/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Hard!! (But very fulfilling)

Olli-C 04/Aug/12 2nd O/S

Nails for HS, helps to have big hands and long arms......

Hidden 22/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Lilla Horvath 22/Jul/12 2nd O/S
with Will
SGD 25/Jun/12 Lead O/S

WEll, I'm trying to learn how to climb cracks and this was indeed a learning curve. It was hard! the 1st move took some working out and the move left was a bit goey too. Sooo glad I was carrying a full rack of cams! Grade? who know's I can't jam for toffee :)

Graeme Hammond 25/Jun/12 Solo rpt
Hidden 25/May/12 2nd O/S
DaveFidler 16/May/12 2nd O/S
Alex.M-M. 05/May/12 -
migs493 15/Apr/12 Lead β

Bloody hell!

Stefan_Morris 15/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Alex
Bry 22/Mar/12 2nd dog
hfac 26/Feb/12 Lead
with Jonny F
Jonny M 26/Feb/12 Lead O/S
kabutsu ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
mbradberry2008 30/Nov/11 Lead
flyinfrenchy 30/Nov/11 2nd O/S
Andy Peak 1 01/Oct/11 Solo
Hidden 26/Sep/11 Lead O/S
pow22 24/Sep/11 Lead RP

Got my foot stuck at the crux!

Oceanic 23/Sep/11 -
rich_hw 10/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Sep/11 Solo rpt
Alkis 14/Aug/11 Lead rpt
Andy Peak 1 06/Aug/11 Solo
althesin 28/Jul/11 AltLd
schristophersmith 28/Jul/11 Lead dog

Big fall from crux move to left, pulled out protection and fell to next bomber cam. Let Silas go up and do move before going back and finishing climb. Brilliant crack climb

Haydn Jones 24/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with paul
Laurence Everitt 10/Jul/11 Solo O/S
Poco Loco 19/Jun/11 Lead O/S


with Alison, Tom, Richard Roberts
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 19/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Lukem6 13/Jun/11 Lead RP
dennis janisse 13/Jun/11 2nd O/S
with lm610
Jenny Monkey 13/Jun/11 2nd O/S
spragglerocks 04/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Bruce LMC
CharlieMack 26/May/11 Lead O/S
with Katie
Graeme Hammond 15/May/11 2nd rpt
Hidden 15/May/11 Lead O/S
Col Kingshott 14/May/11 Lead O/S
shaky2 03/May/11 Lead
Hidden 03/May/11 2nd O/S
shouter 24/Apr/11 2nd
colin milton 23/Apr/11 2nd
with martin
Hidden 20/Apr/11 Solo O/S
Jonathan Hall 10/Apr/11 Lead
disturbed_one51 10/Apr/11 2nd
with Wee man
Hidden 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S
PAJames ??/2011 -
Emma-Louise Anderson 20/Oct/10 Lead dog

Steep jamming crack. Tough work, especially with frozen hands. Took a good fall onto my cam... super smooth fall and the gear held.

with Wez Inskip, Adam Simms
Rampikino 17/Oct/10 Lead
with Cat
ben_250 25/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Andrew
Hidden 24/Sep/10 2nd
chrisbussell 21/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Tim O'Neill
B-bop 21/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Juan
CWMulcahy 02/Sep/10 Lead
Tom Redmond 02/Sep/10 Lead O/S

had no gear big enough to protect it, mediocre nut placement fell out as i reached platform, and thread runner! felt far harder than HS and agree with guidebook saying it is "unjustifiably dangerous"

with Rian Whitham
Koala ?/Sep/10 Lead O/S
stephenhartley 02/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Burns
batterj2 24/Jul/10 TR O/S
pr1984 24/Jul/10 2nd O/S
with Mitch
Hidden 24/Jul/10 TR O/S
Hidden 24/Jul/10 TR dog
oodledoodle 30/Jun/10 2nd dog
kermit_uk 30/Jun/10 Lead O/S
KurtD 30/Jun/10 2nd dog
with Cameron Anderson, Billy Gwinnutt
Mr. K 22/Jun/10 Lead dog

Faffed about for ages over the move left onto the ledge from the top of the first crack. By the time I'd worked out I really did need to swing across on hand jams my right leg had buried itself so deeply into the crack I was going nowhere! Short rest and the move went pretty smoothly with an impromptu chin-hook. Quality route! =oD

with Chris Harris, Fred Mainwaring
ccr_harris 22/Jun/10 2nd β

My second ever climb outdoors. I watched Kyle lead the, after a hampered start - I was deciding how best to tackle the beginning - I decided I wasn't going to take out any of the gear on the way up, stopping near the top for a sneaky photo!

Fred Mainwaring 22/Jun/10 Lead
elyben 13/Jun/10 Lead
highrepute 31/May/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 30/May/10 Lead dog
mhawk 29/May/10 2nd O/S
bigdrew 03/May/10 Lead β

Had a fight with this route, Didn't take a full set of large cams (big mistake!) and chickened out of the top crack.

with Reuben
jon_gill1 09/Apr/10 2nd O/S
with shaun
LoneBoulderer 21/Mar/10 2nd
LivinITlarge 21/Mar/10 Lead dog
with Joe
Hidden 31/Jan/10 Lead dog
Rhythm24 31/Jan/10 2nd dog

A real burl fest!

Ken Taylor ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 AltLd O/S
Simon Caldwell 23/Aug/09 Lead O/S

More intimidating than difficult - once I stopped faffing and just got on with it, it went relatively smoothly (though with the odd expletive or three). Nearly finished up the arete on the right at the top of the final crack but it got a bit too bold and I backed off. It's probably about the same grade though so would make a good continuation.

with Carmen
Hidden 13/Aug/09 Solo O/S
dan gibson 16/Jun/09 Solo O/S
LittleJoe 12/Jun/09 Lead O/S

great fun

msherelle 12/Jun/09 2nd
with Joe
Guy Wilson 04/Jun/09 2nd
with Byron Buck
Byronius Maximus 04/Jun/09 Lead O/S

Enjoyable jamming with a harder-than-expected exit to the left.

with Michael King
Hidden 31/May/09 2nd O/S
joe1979 12/May/09 Lead
with phyll
Hidden 29/Mar/09 Lead dog
Hidden 29/Mar/09 Lead dog
LivinITlarge ?/Mar/09 2nd β
keith leonard ??/2009 -
lenn1346 17/Sep/08 2nd rpt
with Colin L
devonjester 17/Sep/08 Lead O/S

Started in the failing light; couple of power moves and a speedy cam placement saw me up over the crux. Justin followed in the twilight. Took the belay apart and came down in the dark. Great climb.

Don Jebus 13/Sep/08 AltLd O/S
Jamie Buxton 26/Aug/08 2nd
with getk
Hidden 26/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Stig 10/Aug/08 2nd O/S
with Charlie Reade-Jahn
Hidden 13/Jul/08 Lead O/S
cmsg 12/Jul/08 2nd rpt

Rested on this in the past. Still felt pretty stiff on second. What a route.

with Tom Cattermole
Hidden 18/May/08 Lead RP
Hidden 11/Apr/08 2nd dog
Hidden 11/Apr/08 Lead
duzinga 24/Feb/08 2nd O/S
with Jim
Hidden 24/Feb/08 Lead O/S
lowersharpnose 01/Jan/08 Lead
thrutch ??/2008 -
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
AntiGrav ??/2008 -
Hidden 01/Dec/07 2nd O/S
AJ007 01/Dec/07 Lead
Matt Fry 03/Nov/07 Lead O/S
with Ali Scott
tom169 27/Oct/07 Lead dog

raining :( a lot :( i hate the weather

with Justin
cat22 20/Oct/07 2nd dog
with Mike
lenn1346 20/Sep/07 Lead dog

got scared at top of crack, fiddled around putting gear in then had to rest on it. Should have just gone for it!

with Colin L
devonjester 20/Sep/07 2nd
crossdressingrodney 16/Sep/07 2nd O/S

Didn't find the crack itself very difficult (and I'm a jamming novice) but the exit from the good holds at the top was very tough for 4b. (I was only seconding though).

victim of mathematics 15/Sep/07 Lead O/S

Came within half a cat's whisker of falling of this on several occasions. Very, very hard indeed (and I like jamming a lot).

malc 02/Sep/07 2nd O/S
with Paul S
howlingbaboon 05/Aug/07 Lead O/S
Graeme Hammond 22/Jul/07 2nd O/S
Hidden 22/Jul/07 Lead O/S
Sankey 08/Jul/07 2nd dog

I'm not too proud to admit dogging this, wacked from leading Sand Buttress, epitomises grit

with Clare and Reuben
leonjones 23/Jun/07 2nd
with Phil Barley
b.hayley ?/Jun/07 Lead
stp 17/Apr/07 Solo O/S
tallsop 13/Feb/07 2nd
with alex
Hidden ??/2007 -
Oli 30/Nov/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Nov/06 2nd O/S
alaan 26/Nov/06 Lead O/S
with Matt
Budge 07/Sep/06 Lead rpt
with Ludovic Laurioux, Mike Oates
clintos 04/Sep/06 Lead
with jonny green
andrewwightman ?/Sep/06 2nd
with Gary, colin Currie
rob wmc 12/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with Pete
Hidden ?/Aug/06 2nd
Mark Collins 16/Jul/06 Lead dog
Swirly 15/Jul/06 2nd O/S

Rob led

with Rob and Ceri
Hidden 06/Jul/06 Lead O/S
Whealiebob 14/Jun/06 Lead
with Terry
Milne 14/Jun/06 2nd O/S
with Dave
Hidden 11/Jun/06 2nd dog
Si dH 14/May/06 Lead O/S
with Tom Lambert
JonBray ?/May/06 Lead O/S
GPN ?/Apr/06 Lead dog

A shameful effort.

gripped01 ?/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with Jules Turner
Rampikino 19/Feb/06 Lead
with Blond Mark
Hidden 14/Sep/05 2nd rpt
Hidden 29/Apr/05 2nd O/S
SteveM 09/Jul/04 Lead
with Cogie
Hidden ?/Jun/04 2nd
adam carless ?/Jun/04 Lead O/S

First climb at black rocks, a traditional jamming crack, with all that implies.

with nick smith
climbingrev 31/May/04 Lead rpt

Now know I can't Jam!!!! Epic struggle up this definitive crack. First ascent 1890's must have been a hero - and a rounded black rocks crack specialist! Very nearly got the flash, but pannicked just before top - really rounded - thankfully found jug (as over 6' above cam!) got #2 cam in and rested! If you ever do this again - remember jug at top of crack RHS.

Hidden 01/May/04 Lead O/S
Lizard ?/Feb/04 Lead O/S
with Dean McK
Mark Collins 27/Nov/03 Solo O/S
Budge 04/Sep/03 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Jul/03 2nd rpt
Hidden ?/Jul/03 Solo
Different Steve ?/May/03 Lead
with Christina Ennis
dangerousoldfool ??/2003 Lead dnf

Couldn't do the leftward move at the top of the crack. Had to downclimb and clean the route. Pumped to death by the time I got down ! Next time..

with Dave C
Peakology ??/2003 Lead O/S
with cat
Chalky Cat ??/2003 2nd O/S
with Dom
gripped01 ?/Oct/02 Lead O/S
with Jules Turner
samwelli 04/Sep/02 2nd O/S
with Reuben Brown
DerwentDiluted 26/Aug/02 Lead
with V. Wilson
Phil West 17/Aug/02 Lead dog
with Chris Tan
Hidden 12/Aug/02 Lead
Hidden 10/Jul/02 2nd O/S
nickdonohue ?/Jun/02 Lead

Was graded Severe... bloody hard!

with Ian Brenton, Kath Donohue
Hidden 21/Apr/02 Lead O/S
rocktigger ??/2002 Lead O/S

ing ard

with Stu
petekeron ??/2002 2nd O/S
with Jamie Barclay
John Brayshaw 01/Jul/01 Lead rpt
with Chris
Gman ?/Jul/01 Lead O/S
with Eamon
Jim Brooke 28/Aug/00 2nd
with Chris Born
chrishedgehog 17/Jul/00 Lead O/S
with Joe Thompson
Budge 25/May/00 Lead O/S
with Mike Oates
Laramadness 30/Apr/00 Solo O/S
Dave Bond ??/2000 Lead O/S
with pete davis
Alastair Hudson 09/Sep/99 Lead
with Dave Woodman
RobSimmo ?/Sep/99 Lead O/S
with Steve Goodens, Jon Berry
kato'sdad ?/Sep/99 2nd
Hidden 24/Jul/99 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/99 2nd
tommytwotone 24/Jun/99 Lead O/S
with Steve Ng
Jim Brooke 05/Jun/99 Lead O/S
with Liz Cant, Rich
Hidden ?/May/99 Lead
paul birch 28/Mar/99 -
CrashMat Rob 10/Jul/97 Lead O/S
with Bruce
Hidden 29/Jun/97 Lead O/S
Brian Rodgers ??/1997 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Apr/96 Lead O/S
rurp ??/1996 Lead O/S
Roget 17/Aug/95 Solo rpt
Gordon Stainforth 06/Aug/95 Lead
with John Cutcliffe
Martyn ??/1995 Lead
with Shaun Hodgkins
brady ??/1995 Lead
with John Cameron, Dave Greenway
Hidden 02/Aug/94 Lead O/S
Marti999 ?/Jun/94 Solo
with lorna
Hidden 01/Oct/93 Lead O/S
Laramadness 03/Sep/92 Solo
Hidden 27/Jun/92 Solo
Hidden 06/Sep/91 Solo
kato'sdad ?/Jun/91 Lead
with Jerry Mattinson
Hidden 05/Aug/90 Lead O/S
craig h 12/Mar/90 Solo O/S
Ian Archer 06/Mar/90 Lead O/S
with Neil Watson
nai ??/1990 Lead
andrew300169 ??/1990 -
gordonday ??/1990 Solo
Hidden 23/Sep/89 Lead O/S
Roget 08/Jul/89 Lead O/S
with jim
Hidden ??/1989 -
Iain Thow 19/Jul/88 Lead
with Bob Lister
Chris the Tall ?/Feb/87 TR

Had tried to lead it - hands froze, one foot got jammed.....

with Nick Woad
Tony Buckley ?/Jul/86 -
with Tony Jinks
shark 24/Jun/86 Solo O/S
Hidden ?/Oct/85 2nd
babymoac 24/Nov/84 Lead
with Bob Hunter
Nigel Bond 08/Apr/84 Lead
with Charlie Leverton
John Brayshaw 01/Jun/83 Lead rpt
with Alfreton MC
Hidden 24/Apr/83 Lead
Mark Kemball 16/Apr/83 Solo
Mark Kemball 02/Oct/82 Lead
with Sian Calow, Chris Calow
John Brayshaw 15/May/82 2nd O/S
with Alfreton MC
charlesmfrench 08/Feb/82 Solo O/S
Nigel Bond 29/Jun/80 Solo
andy tetsill ?/Jun/80 Lead
with Rob Kevan
CrashMat Rob ??/1980 Lead O/S


paul__in_sheffield ??/1980 Lead
Ghastly Rubberfeet ??/1979 Lead
Andy Say ??/1979 Lead
RichardMc 16/Oct/77 2nd
with Tony Williams
tapley 22/Jul/77 Lead
with Alison Tapley
Hidden 16/Apr/77 Lead
rogerskews ??/1976 -
with CMC Members
mikej 03/May/69 Solo
with Mike Browne, John Bickerdyke, Geoff Williams
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
gaz3212, druss, richardw87, hirving, callumbtaylor, SuperLee1985, AndyPagett, Hidden, Hidden, David Carpenter, Hidden, Richard Alderton, Richard Smith, The Biochemist, Hidden, Ander, Hidden, bluebrad, anthony11
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Votes cast 73
High 4c
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Style of ascent
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