Derbyshire > Black Rocks >
Lean Man's Superdirect*** VS 4c

Adjacent Climbs
<< The Superstitious Start
Fat Man's Chimney >>
[Ken Wilson on Lean Man's Superdirect, 3 kb]20m, 2 pitches. 1) 5a, 10m. Excellent. Climb the steep, green and awkward groove in the left wall of Fat Man's Chimney to a good stance. 2) 5a, 10m. The steep cracks above lead to a ledge on the left and a technical finish back right. Hard for the grade with both pitches finally being upgraded from 4c by popular demand. © ROCKFAX
FA. Alf Bridge, I M Waller, J L Longland 1930. Left unrecorded for 15 years due to its difficulty!

Ticklists: 100 More Classic British VS Climbs, Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List, Eastern Peak Grit 100 VD- VS, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, Peak Rock/1/ The 1st Peak District Tigers., Peak Rock/3/ A Decade of Expansion.

Photo: Ken Wilson on Lean Man's Superdirect © Gordon Stainforth
View all 3 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 31 logbooks, and on 13 wishlists.

Led P2 as Bush wanted to pitch it (obvs), upper crux looked like it was going to be hard, but with the help of two delightful hand jams it was a doddle! Really great moves up the last section just wished it could have carried on.
Stroppy - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/14 with Tom Bushell

OliverRoss - Lead β - 02/Jun/14 with Craig Osborne

Leeds Andy - AltLd - 07/Aug/13

ERH - Lead O/S - Aug/13

I am glad I didnt get to lead this. An awkward start and a steep top with hand-jamming action and nothing for your feet. Felt harder than the sloth!
Emma-Louise Anderson - 2nd dog - 05/Jul/10 with Dave, Paul Tattersall

tatz45 - Lead O/S - 05/Jul/10 with Emma Anderson, Dave Grant

GREAT ROUTE, led as one long pitch which was ace! Nice lay backing on the first pitch and perfect jams in a steep situation on the 2nd :D Thought 5a was fair, but the name is a bit miss leading as it is a completely independent line to the excellent Lean Man's Climb.
Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 31/May/10 with Pete aka Dad

dan gibson - Solo O/S - 16/Jun/09

Budge - Lead rpt - 25/Sep/08 with Graham Collins

grunting gibbed and frigged my way up in the failing twilight.
tempeh - 2nd dog - 25/Sep/08 with budge

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Mar/08

thrutch - 2008

AntiGrav - 2008

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/04

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Mar/04

Dave Bond - Lead O/S - 2004 with charles

samwelli - 2nd dog - 04/Sep/02 with Reuben Brown

Budge - 2nd rpt - 29/Aug/02 with Carl Tiivas, Mike Oates

Budge - Lead O/S - 17/Aug/00 with Mike Oates

Roget - Lead rpt - 08/May/98 with jon

CrashMat Rob - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/97 with Bruce

Gordon Stainforth - Lead O/S - 16/Jul/96 with John Stainforth

Tricky finish
babymoac - Lead - 19/Jul/92 with Manda, James Crampton

tlr - Lead - 07/May/92 with Cal

Roget - 2nd O/S - 1988 with jim

charlesmfrench - AltLd O/S - 02/Mar/86

Nigel Bond - Lead - 08/Apr/84 with Charlie Leverton

Mark Kemball - Solo - 16/Apr/83

Nigel Bond - Lead - 19/Jun/79 with Martin Crosby

rogerskews - 1976 with CMC Members

mikej - Lead - 08/Jun/69 with Alan Booth, Mike Browne, E

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
SuperLee1985, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, joe hallam, Alex.M-M., Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Ander, Hidden, Peakology, Hidden

Total votes cast 30
hard HVS0 of 10
HVS0 of 10
easy HVS4 of 10
hard VS4 of 10
VS2 of 10
easy VS0 of 10
hard HS0 of 10
HS0 of 10
easy HS0 of 10
hard 5a0 of 10
5a1 of 10
easy 5a7 of 10
hard 4c2 of 10
4c0 of 10
easy 4c0 of 10
hard 4b0 of 10
4b0 of 10
easy 4b0 of 10
3 Stars10 of 10
2 Stars0 of 10
1 Star0 of 10
0 Stars0 of 10
Bag of .....0 of 10
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent

Soloed2 of 31 (6.5%)
Lead18 of 31 (58.1%)
Followed5 of 31 (16.1%)
Alt Leads3 of 31 (9.7%)
Unknown3 of 31 (9.7%)

'Climbed'10 of 31 (32.3%)
clean O/S14 of 31 (45.2%)
clean β1 of 31 (3.2%)
clean rpt3 of 31 (9.7%)
dogged3 of 31 (9.7%)