Lean Man's Superdirect*** VS 5a
[Ken Wilson on Lean Man's Superdirect, 3 kb]20m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
1) 5a, 10m. Excellent. Climb the steep, green and awkward groove in the left wall of Fat Man's Chimney to a good stance.
2) 5a, 10m. The steep cracks above lead to a ledge on the left and a technical finish back right. Full value for the grade with both pitches being upgraded from 4c by popular demand. © ROCKFAX

FA. Alf Bridge, I M Waller, J L Longland 1930. Left unrecorded for 15 years due to its difficulty!

Ticklists: 100 More Classic British VS Climbs, Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List, Eastern Peak Grit 100 VD- VS, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, Peak Rock/1/ The 1st Peak District Tigers., Peak Rock/3/ A Decade of Expansion, The Black Rocks 1949 Guide VS Challenge.

Photo: Ken Wilson on Lean Man's Superdirect © Gordon Stainforth
View all 3 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 36 logbooks, and on 14 wishlists.

Ughhhhh I can't jam
hipyhop - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/14 with Mike Cheque

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 11/Aug/14

Led P2 as Bush wanted to pitch it (obvs), upper crux looked like it was going to be hard, but with the help of two delightful hand jams it was a doddle! Really great moves up the last section just wished it could have carried on.
Stroppy - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/14 with Tom Bushell

OliverRoss - Lead β - 02/Jun/14 with Craig Osborne

Hidden - Lead O/S - Apr/14

Leeds Andy - AltLd - 07/Aug/13

ERH - Lead O/S - Aug/13

I am glad I didnt get to lead this. An awkward start and a steep top with hand-jamming action and nothing for your feet. Felt harder than the sloth!
Emma-Louise Anderson - 2nd dog - 05/Jul/10 with Dave, Paul Tattersall

tatz45 - Lead O/S - 05/Jul/10 with Emma Anderson, Dave Grant

GREAT ROUTE, led as one long pitch which was ace! Nice lay backing on the first pitch and perfect jams in a steep situation on the 2nd :D Thought 5a was fair, but the name is a bit miss leading as it is a completely independent line to the excellent Lean Man's Climb.
Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 31/May/10 with Pete aka Dad

dan gibson - Solo O/S - 16/Jun/09

Budge - Lead rpt - 25/Sep/08 with Graham Collins

grunting gibbed and frigged my way up in the failing twilight.
tempeh - 2nd dog - 25/Sep/08 with budge

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Mar/08

thrutch - 2008

AntiGrav - 2008

nige pacer - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/04

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Mar/04

Dave Bond - Lead O/S - 2004 with charles

samwelli - 2nd dog - 04/Sep/02 with Reuben Brown

Budge - 2nd rpt - 29/Aug/02 with Carl Tiivas, Mike Oates

Budge - Lead O/S - 17/Aug/00 with Mike Oates

Roget - Lead rpt - 08/May/98 with jon

CrashMat Rob - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/97 with Bruce

Gordon Stainforth - Lead O/S - 16/Jul/96 with John Stainforth

Tricky finish
babymoac - Lead - 19/Jul/92 with Manda, James Crampton

tlr - Lead - 07/May/92 with Cal

steve prior - Lead - Sep/90 with Chris S

Paul Clarke - 1989

Roget - 2nd O/S - 1988 with jim

charlesmfrench - AltLd O/S - 02/Mar/86

Nigel Bond - Lead - 08/Apr/84 with Charlie Leverton

Mark Kemball - Solo - 16/Apr/83

Nigel Bond - Lead - 19/Jun/79 with Martin Crosby

rogerskews - 1976 with CMC Members

mikej - Lead - 08/Jun/69 with Alan Booth, Mike Browne, E

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
mapperley samurai, SuperLee1985, joe hallam, Alex.M-M., Ander, Peakology

Total votes cast 33
hard HVS0 of 11
HVS0 of 11
easy HVS4 of 11
hard VS4 of 11
VS3 of 11
easy VS0 of 11
hard HS0 of 11
HS0 of 11
easy HS0 of 11
hard 5b0 of 11
5b0 of 11
easy 5b0 of 11
hard 5a0 of 11
5a1 of 11
easy 5a7 of 11
hard 4c3 of 11
4c0 of 11
easy 4c0 of 11
3 Stars11 of 11
2 Stars0 of 11
1 Star0 of 11
0 Stars0 of 11
Bag of .....0 of 11
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat