Lean Man's Superdirect*** VS 5a
[Ken Wilson on Lean Man's Superdirect, 3 kb]20m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
1) 5a, 10m. Excellent. Climb the steep, green and awkward groove in the left wall of Fat Man's Chimney to a good stance.
2) 5a, 10m. The steep cracks above lead to a ledge on the left and a technical finish back right. Full value for the grade with both pitches being upgraded from 4c by popular demand. © ROCKFAX

FA. Alf Bridge, I M Waller, J L Longland 1930. Left unrecorded for 15 years due to its difficulty!

Ticklists: 100 More Classic British VS Climbs, Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List, Eastern Peak Grit 100 VD- VS, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, Peak Rock/1/ The 1st Peak District Tigers., Peak Rock/3/ A Decade of Expansion, The Black Rocks 1949 Guide VS Challenge.

Photo: Ken Wilson on Lean Man's Superdirect © Gordon Stainforth
View all 3 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 42 logbooks, and on 16 wishlists.

Lead in one pitch. 1st bit felt like awkward vs 4c. Crux felt much harder.
Oliver Houston - Lead O/S - 27/Jun/15 with john hayes

hipyhop - Lead rpt - 20/Jun/15 with Jo, Cherelle

amccann - AltLd O/S - 27/Mar/15 with Nick

Nick1812P - AltLd O/S - 27/Mar/15 with speedy

Ughhhhh I can't jam
hipyhop - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/14 with cheque

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 11/Aug/14

Led P2 as Bush wanted to pitch it (obvs), upper crux looked like it was going to be hard, but with the help of two delightful hand jams it was a doddle! Really great moves up the last section just wished it could have carried on.
Stroppy - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/14 with Tom Bushell

OliverRoss - Lead β - 02/Jun/14 with Craig Osborne

RosePearson - Lead O/S - Apr/14 with Phil glass

Hidden - AltLd - 07/Aug/13

ERH - Lead O/S - Aug/13

I am glad I didnt get to lead this. An awkward start and a steep top with hand-jamming action and nothing for your feet. Felt harder than the sloth!
Emma-Louise Anderson - 2nd dog - 05/Jul/10 with Dave, Paul Tattersall

tatz45 - Lead O/S - 05/Jul/10 with Emma Anderson, Dave Grant

GREAT ROUTE, led as one long pitch which was ace! Nice lay backing on the first pitch and perfect jams in a steep situation on the 2nd :D Thought 5a was fair, but the name is a bit miss leading as it is a completely independent line to the excellent Lean Man's Climb.
Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 31/May/10 with Pete aka Dad

dan gibson - Solo O/S - 16/Jun/09

Budge - Lead rpt - 25/Sep/08 with Graham Collins

grunting gibbed and frigged my way up in the failing twilight.
tempeh - 2nd dog - 25/Sep/08 with budge

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Mar/08

thrutch - 2008

AntiGrav - 2008

nige pacer - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/04

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Mar/04

Dave Bond - Lead O/S - 2004 with charles

samwelli - 2nd dog - 04/Sep/02 with Reuben Brown

Budge - 2nd rpt - 29/Aug/02 with Carl Tiivas, Mike Oates

Budge - Lead O/S - 17/Aug/00 with Mike Oates

alan moore - 2000

WuDavid - 2000

Roget - Lead rpt - 08/May/98 with jon

CrashMat Rob - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/97 with Bruce

Gordon Stainforth - Lead O/S - 16/Jul/96 with John Stainforth

Tricky finish
babymoac - Lead - 19/Jul/92 with Manda, James Crampton

tlr - Lead - 07/May/92 with Cal

steve prior - Lead - Sep/90 with Chris S

Hidden - 1989

Roget - 2nd O/S - 1988 with jim

charlesmfrench - AltLd O/S - 02/Mar/86

Nigel Bond - Lead - 08/Apr/84 with Charlie Leverton

Mark Kemball - Solo - 16/Apr/83

Nigel Bond - Lead - 19/Jun/79 with Martin Crosby

rogerskews - 1976 with CMC Members

mikej - Lead - 08/Jun/69 with Alan Booth, Mike Browne, E

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
mapperley samurai, SuperLee1985, joe hallam, Alex.M-M., Ander, Peakology

Total votes cast 36
hard HVS0 of 12
HVS0 of 12
easy HVS4 of 12
hard VS5 of 12
VS3 of 12
easy VS0 of 12
hard HS0 of 12
HS0 of 12
easy HS0 of 12
hard 5b0 of 12
5b0 of 12
easy 5b0 of 12
hard 5a0 of 12
5a2 of 12
easy 5a7 of 12
hard 4c3 of 12
4c0 of 12
easy 4c0 of 12
3 Stars11 of 12
2 Stars1 of 12
1 Star0 of 12
0 Stars0 of 12
Bag of .....0 of 12
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat