Derbyshire > Black Rocks >
Lean Man's Superdirect*** VS 4c

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[Ken Wilson on Lean Man's Superdirect, 3 kb]20m, 2 pitches. 1) 5a, 10m. Excellent. Climb the steep, green and awkward groove in the left wall of Fat Man's Chimney to a good stance. 2) 5a, 10m. The steep cracks above lead to a ledge on the left and a technical finish back right. Hard for the grade with both pitches finally being upgraded from 4c by popular demand. © ROCKFAX
FA. Alf Bridge, I M Waller, J L Longland 1930. Left unrecorded for 15 years due to its difficulty!

Ticklists: 100 More Classic British VS Climbs, Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List, Eastern Peak Grit 100 VD- VS, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, Peak Rock/1/ The 1st Peak District Tigers., Peak Rock/3/ A Decade of Expansion.

Photo: Ken Wilson on Lean Man's Superdirect © Gordon Stainforth
View all 3 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 29 logbooks, and on 13 wishlists.

Leeds Andy - AltLd - 07/Aug/13

ERH - Lead O/S - Aug/13

I am glad I didnt get to lead this. An awkward start and a steep top with hand-jamming action and nothing for your feet. Felt harder than the sloth!
Emma-Louise Anderson - 2nd dog - 05/Jul/10 with Dave, Paul Tattersall

tatz45 - Lead O/S - 05/Jul/10 with Emma Anderson, Dave Grant

GREAT ROUTE, led as one long pitch which was ace! Nice lay backing on the first pitch and perfect jams in a steep situation on the 2nd :D Thought 5a was fair, but the name is a bit miss leading as it is a completely independent line to the excellent Lean Man's Climb.
Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 31/May/10 with Pete aka Dad

dan gibson - Solo O/S - 16/Jun/09

Budge - Lead rpt - 25/Sep/08 with Graham Collins

grunting gibbed and frigged my way up in the failing twilight.
tempeh - 2nd dog - 25/Sep/08 with budge

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Mar/08

thrutch - 2008

AntiGrav - 2008

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/04

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Mar/04

Dave Bond - Lead O/S - 2004 with charles

samwelli - 2nd dog - 04/Sep/02 with Reuben Brown

Budge - 2nd rpt - 29/Aug/02 with Carl Tiivas, Mike Oates

Budge - Lead O/S - 17/Aug/00 with Mike Oates

Roget - Lead rpt - 08/May/98 with jon

CrashMat Rob - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/97 with Bruce

Gordon Stainforth - Lead O/S - 16/Jul/96 with John Stainforth

Tricky finish
babymoac - Lead - 19/Jul/92 with Manda, James Crampton

tlr - Lead - 07/May/92 with Cal

Roget - 2nd O/S - 1988 with jim

charlesmfrench - AltLd O/S - 02/Mar/86

Nigel Bond - Lead - 08/Apr/84 with Charlie Leverton

Mark Kemball - Solo - 16/Apr/83

Nigel Bond - Lead - 19/Jun/79 with Martin Crosby

rogerskews - 1976 with CMC Members

mikej - Lead - 08/Jun/69 with Alan Booth, Mike Browne, E

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
SuperLee1985, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, joe hallam, Alex.M-M., Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Ander, Hidden, Peakology, Hidden

Total votes cast 24
hard HVS0 of 8
HVS0 of 8
easy HVS4 of 8
hard VS4 of 8
VS0 of 8
easy VS0 of 8
hard HS0 of 8
HS0 of 8
easy HS0 of 8
hard 5a0 of 8
5a0 of 8
easy 5a6 of 8
hard 4c2 of 8
4c0 of 8
easy 4c0 of 8
hard 4b0 of 8
4b0 of 8
easy 4b0 of 8
3 Stars8 of 8
2 Stars0 of 8
1 Star0 of 8
0 Stars0 of 8
Bag of .....0 of 8
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Style of ascent

Soloed2 of 29 (6.9%)
Lead16 of 29 (55.2%)
Followed5 of 29 (17.2%)
Alt Leads3 of 29 (10.3%)
Unknown3 of 29 (10.3%)

'Climbed'10 of 29 (34.5%)
clean O/S13 of 29 (44.8%)
clean rpt3 of 29 (10.3%)
dogged3 of 29 (10.3%)