The stunning hanging groove; brilliant but only for the bold. The technical crux is getting into the groove but is well protected (easier for the tall). Superb moves above this gain a psychologically draining rest point at the top of the groove where even breathing feels precarious! Slopers out right lead to the psycho-crux pull onto the arete with a high kick for a toe-hook, much gusto and a strong will to live. © Rockfax
FA. Johnny Dawes 1986
|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
Pete Clark, Jon Clark
Classic tick. Very happy. A couple of goes on a top rope then went for it. I'm glad i didn't try to flash it.
Nick da Beast
|Ram MkiV||10/Oct/13||Lead RP|
|Cailean Harker||17/Jan/13||Lead RP||
Amazingly happy to get this lead, an absolute relief catching the top. Would have loved to go for the ground up, but after Mike jumped off from the groove and the gear ripped out lost my bottle a bit and decided to look at gear and moves on a top rope first. Which in hind sight I am happy I did, because the top moves are super sketchy!
|Mike Goldthorp||17/Jan/13||Lead dnf||
Went for a flash without too much expectation, got up to the top of the groove but really didnt fancy the uncertainty of the final moves, downclimbed a bit and jumped off, glad I did cos cam's ripped (placed them too high in the crack in the flared section, they're better a bit lower) and skimmed the floor on the low cams... Flashed on TR afterwards but a bit shaken to have another burn, will be back soon
Truly Iconic. Used the Jean Minh way to get into the groove, and the top felt fine in the cold.
|Adam Booth||21/Oct/11||TR dog|
|Ed Booth||21/Oct/11||TR dog||
So close to doing the move into the grrove twice, but its a proper body twister! At least that bits by the gear, the top is ok but would be scary on lead. Psyched!
|Dirk Uhlig||04/Oct/11||Lead RP||
Onsight on Toprope
|Jonas Paulsson||04/Mar/11||TR dog||
Couldn't do the crux move. Did the rest with some falls over a number of tries.
Superb!!! What a mental fight. 5 tries in top rope then lead with placing the gears. Two ropes. 3 days of work. Video: http://vimeo.com/14457298
CÚdric Claert, Guillaume Lion, Nathan Rosenfeld
Could do all but the Crux move into the groove. Pretty much flashed the top moves.
|Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH||19/Dec/07||TR dnf|
2nd ascent. Slugs 1, 2 and 3 to protect.