Derbyshire > Black Rocks >
 
Gaia*** E8 6c

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[JR off Gaia, Black Rocks, 2 kb]20m. The stunning hanging groove; brilliant climbing, but restricted to the bold. The technical crux is getting into the groove but is well protected (easier for the tall, 6b). Superb moves above this gain a psychologically-draining rest point at the top of the groove where even breathing feels precarious! Slopers out right lead to the psycho-crux pull onto the arete with a high kick for a toe-hook, much gusto and a strong will to live. © ROCKFAX
FA. Johnny Dawes 1986

Ticklists: Hard Grit, Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List, World Graded List, Peak Rock/16/Eighties Gritstone :The Shape of Things to Come, The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist, Consumed.

Photo: JR off Gaia, Black Rocks © Alex Messenger
View all 12 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 23 logbooks, and on 41 wishlists.

Ethan - Lead - 13/Nov/13 with Pete Clark, Jon Clark

Classic tick. Very happy. A couple of goes on a top rope then went for it. I'm glad i didn't try to flash it.
willackers - Lead RP - 09/Nov/13 with Nick da Beast

Ram MkiV - Lead RP - 10/Oct/13 with Nathan

Amazingly happy to get this lead, an absolute relief catching the top. Would have loved to go for the ground up, but after Mike jumped off from the groove and the gear ripped out lost my bottle a bit and decided to look at gear and moves on a top rope first. Which in hind sight I am happy I did, because the top moves are super sketchy!
Cailean Harker - Lead RP - 17/Jan/13 with Mike Goldthorp

Went for a flash without too much expectation, got up to the top of the groove but really didnt fancy the uncertainty of the final moves, downclimbed a bit and jumped off, glad I did cos cam's ripped (placed them too high in the crack in the flared section, they're better a bit lower) and skimmed the floor on the low cams... Flashed on TR afterwards but a bit shaken to have another burn, will be back soon
Mike Goldthorp - Lead dnf - 17/Jan/13 with Cailean Harker

Truly Iconic. Used the Jean Minh way to get into the groove, and the top felt fine in the cold.
nathanlee - Lead RP - 26/Oct/12 with Dom Lee

Adam Booth - TR dog - 21/Oct/11 with Ed Booth

So close to doing the move into the grrove twice, but its a proper body twister! At least that bits by the gear, the top is ok but would be scary on lead. Psyched!
Ed Booth - TR dog - 21/Oct/11 with Adam Booth

Onsight on Toprope
Dirk Uhlig - Lead RP - 04/Oct/11

Couldn't do the crux move. Did the rest with some falls over a number of tries.
Jonas Paulsson - TR dog - 04/Mar/11

Superb!!! What a mental fight. 5 tries in top rope then lead with placing the gears. Two ropes. 3 days of work. Video: http://vimeo.com/14457298
FlorianCastagne - Lead RP - 24/Aug/10 with Cédric Claert, Guillaume Lion, Nathan Rosenfeld

Gazleah - TR - 07/Mar/10 with elizabeth broadbent

St0neMonkey - TR β - 10/Jan/10

pipof747 - Lead RP - 16/Oct/09

Could do all but the Crux move into the groove. Pretty much flashed the top moves.
El3ctroFuzz - TR dog - Aug/09 with Louise Street

Hidden - Jan/09

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - TR dnf - 19/Dec/07 with Dan Bradley

Climb Rox - TR - 05/Apr/07 with baz/bev/heather/brindo/rachael

Hidden - Lead dnf - 25/Mar/04

Laramadness - TR dog - 31/Aug/96

2nd ascent. Slugs 1, 2 and 3 to protect.
WuDavid - Lead RP - 05/Mar/89

Hidden - TR - 1989

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Robin Nichols, michael00693, Hidden, jamesgodwin64, Mike Goldthorp, BRoe, Dean177, Michael Allday, eddiem1, kermit_uk, Hidden, UrbanSteve, Dr Toph, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, iainpowell, alimckay, Hidden, David Bulley, Hidden, Matt Fry, St0neMonkey, Hidden, oliverthomp, Dave Searle, Hidden, Chris Harding, mark s, mikekeswick, timo.t, Si01, Hidden, Oli, Benwa, Ed Booth, Mark Collins, Hidden, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 44
hard E90 of 16
E90 of 16
easy E91 of 16
hard E80 of 16
E811 of 16
easy E84 of 16
hard E70 of 16
E70 of 16
easy E70 of 16
hard 7a0 of 14
7a0 of 14
easy 7a3 of 14
hard 6c6 of 14
6c3 of 14
easy 6c2 of 14
hard 6b0 of 14
6b0 of 14
easy 6b0 of 14
3 Stars13 of 14
2 Stars0 of 14
1 Star0 of 14
0 Stars0 of 14
Bag of .....1 of 14
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Style of ascent

Lead11 of 23 (47.8%)
Toproped10 of 23 (43.5%)
Unknown2 of 23 (8.7%)

'Climbed'5 of 23 (21.7%)
clean β1 of 23 (4.3%)
clean RP8 of 23 (34.8%)
dogged5 of 23 (21.7%)
dnf3 of 23 (13.0%)
Unknown1 of 23 (4.3%)