Wallaby Direct* HVS 5a

Rockfax Description
20m. Follow West's Wallaby to the middle of its traverse then climb steeply to an improving crack and easier ground. © ROCKFAX

FA. Mike Simpkins 1960

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, Roaches HVS Challenge.

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This climb is in 169 logbooks, and on 10 wishlists.

Wild traverse! little rest at the block when i started traversing to soon and was corrected, not much for your feet!
Dexter JW - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/15 with Popz

Really good route, straight forward with good gear, a far more logical finish to west's wallaby. Got a good soaking stripping the gear after a torrential down pour ended play.
rob 528 - Lead - 24/Aug/15

Nigel Bond - Lead - 11/Aug/15 with Bern Hardman

Simonfarfaraway - 2nd - 08/Aug/15 with Shaw

Roaches HVS Challenge #18
FlavioL1989 - 2nd O/S - 07/Jun/15 with Mike Gallimore

Part of the Roaches HVS challenge. We got the silver medal, then it went dark on us after skyline. All routes attempted on-sight. Fun day! Thanks Dan and Flavio!
MichaelGallimore - Lead O/S - 07/Jun/15 with Flavio

DanChad - Lead O/S - 13/May/15 with Chris Murray

As great as I remember.
Le Chevalier Mal Fet - 2nd - 13/May/15 with Dan Chadfield

benw681 - 10/May/15

philmitch - 2nd β - 10/May/15

Adamski1986 - Lead - 26/Apr/15 with Zoe Strong

Hidden - Lead dog - 26/Apr/15

oread - 2nd - 18/Apr/15

fuzzysheep01 - Lead O/S - 15/Mar/15 with Guy Morley

MusicalMountaineer - 2nd dog - 15/Mar/15 with Joe

So annoyed with myself... did the upper traverse about five times to get the correct & good gear in the right-hand crack, thereby getting completely pumped and couldn't do the move to excellent hand holds (which I didn't know) any more. Shook out, reached up a tiny bit, and found jugs. Should have just gone for it!
GermanAlex - Lead dog - 12/Oct/14 with Arno

cpforbes - 2nd dog - 09/Aug/14 with Tim Rodgers

Tim Rodgers - Lead - 09/Aug/14 with Chris Down

Andrew Abraham - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/14 with Clement Attwood

monsteratt - 2nd rpt - 13/Jul/14 with Andrew Abraham

Roisin - Lead O/S - 11/Jul/14

Hidden - 2nd O/S - Jul/14

Shawty - Lead O/S - 28/Jun/14

poigol5043 - Lead - 28/Jun/14

will_benfold - 2nd rpt - 14/Jun/14 with Sarah Woodrow

Pintsize - Lead - 14/Jun/14 with Will Benfold

Great first route, two stars surely! Must have climbed well because it felt good at HVS
JimboWizbo - Lead O/S - 26/May/14 with gaz, Beth

Climbed it after Quinn had done it and watched Crosby and Woody fall before i did it. first section needs to be done quickly and then you get a good rest (awkward if tall). really want to lead it
hirving - TR O/S - 17/May/14 with sam giles

quinn sorabjee - TR rpt - 17/May/14 with J Golding

Hidden - TR O/S - 17/May/14

matt8hew88 - TR dnf - 17/May/14

jordangolding - TR O/S - 17/May/14 with quinn sorabjee

Jacob Hodge 95 - TR O/S - 17/Apr/14 with peter chapman

Found it as pumpy as the sloth!
JakeWShaw - Lead O/S - 29/Mar/14 with Shaun

arms were jelly after doing the sloth and sauls crack. found top crack really hard work though and took a decent fall.
mark4344 - Lead dog - 27/Sep/13 with Matt Payne

vanderz - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/13 with Graeme Vanderhoven

dionisys - 2nd - 08/Sep/13 with vanderz

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/13

Absolutely brilliant and spectacular, 3*. Got very pumped on the HVS bit and found it hard, thinking about it now the whole climb is probably rather soft for HVS - no proper 5a move, lots of good gear all the way and a good rest at half height. Just don't spend too much time placing all that gear...
pheotleyr - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/13 with Mike

Mayaculpa - 2nd - 18/Aug/13 with Peter

MoWalker3 - 20/Jul/13 with Sue

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Jul/13

Mike W - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/13

Hidden - TR - 26/May/13

quinn sorabjee - 26/May/13

robbiek - 2nd dog - 05/May/13 with Geoff Pyatt

first HVS pretty cool route got some mad disco leg halfway up but all went ok in the end!
shaunhumphreys - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/13 with franhammond92

franhammond92 - 2nd - 20/Apr/13

James Oswald - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/13 with Dawn

Dawn_K_B - 2nd - Apr/13 with James Oswald

Hidden - TR - 17/Feb/13

quinn sorabjee - 17/Feb/13

Graeme Hammond - 2nd rpt - 21/Oct/12 with Pete Wimbush

rich led the normal route
Graeme Hammond - 2nd rpt - 20/Oct/12 with Richard Williams

Hidden - 2nd β - 08/Sep/12

David Kay - Lead O/S - 04/Sep/12 with James Hoyes

Hoyes - 2nd rpt - 04/Sep/12 with David K

Haydn Jones - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/12 with pep

JUSTXMike - TR O/S - 23/Aug/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/12

JCAshman - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/12

JCAshman - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/12

jon_gill1 - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/12 with jim braithwaite

came off twice before finding sequence.
Paul Hy - 2nd - 25/Jul/12 with Jack C

Felt quite hard. On my arms quite a lot so got quite tired particularly doing the traverse.
monsteratt - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/12 with Jess

Jessica Taylor - 2nd - Jul/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/12

Matt Cooke - Lead O/S - 31/Mar/12 with Rosh

sara n - TR O/S - 31/Mar/12 with Neal Jobling

lovely climb!
timmyhobby - Sent O/S - 25/Mar/12

shafiq lalloo - 2nd O/S - 25/Mar/12 with timmyhobby

One tight nut was my downfall! More training needed...
heathergotrumbled - 2nd dog - 17/Mar/12 with AW

nice route pumpy getting the gear in, don't think I followed the normal sequence but flowed nicely through the moves, didn't use the crack much.
CurlyStevo - Lead - Aug/11 with Kevin

littleluke - Lead O/S - Aug/11

Chris had a scary time. I found it quite easy!
mes32 - 2nd - 23/Jul/11

chrisallan - Lead dog - 23/Jul/11

Mike Bayley - 2nd O/S - 16/Jul/11 with Martin Hore

Rested on gear at start of HVS section.
hellboundblr - Lead dog - 02/Jul/11 with Steve P

HIGHTOWER - 2nd - 02/Jul/11 with Dylan Williams

williamsd79 - Lead O/S - 02/Jul/11 with Mark Freestone

Hidden - 2nd - 02/Jul/11

Hidden - 2nd - 02/Jul/11

Surprised to get up this.
Hoyes - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/11 with Rachel B

The HVS bit wasn't too bad!
Batt - 2nd O/S - 14/Jun/11 with James Hoyes

Julesthe1st - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/11 with Pete

peeturd - 2nd β - 05/Jun/11

DavidR - 2nd rpt - 21/May/11 with Holly Adamthwaite

Brilliant, brilliant , brilliant! Fantastic lower crack, wild hand traverse, tough upper wall ...better than Valkyrie?
The Ivanator - 2nd - 02/May/11 with Stewart

Stewart Armstrong - 02/May/11 with Ivan Bicknell

Took a big fall on the first attempt when off route. Great climb, good moves!
Gigga - Lead - 23/Apr/11 with Dan, shorty83

Shorty83 - 2nd - 23/Apr/11 with Dan Parry, Giles

Onion - 2nd - 23/Apr/11 with Nick A, Giles W

Neil D - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/11 with Beth Hodgett

HKinsella - 2nd - 20/Apr/11 with Neil Dowse, Beth Hodgett

Long fall on this one
Jim Gaffney - Lead dnf - 09/Apr/11 with Claire Poppett

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 26/Mar/11

Hidden - Lead RP - Mar/11

pord - 01/Jan/11

had to weight rope to get gear out lower down...
Betha. - 2nd dog - 2011

Hidden - 2nd - 2011

donkster - Lead RP - 16/Oct/10 with jus, pete buswell

Garron - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/10

riddle - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/10 with Yasmina

Hidden - 2nd dog - 12/Sep/10

Great route!
markfairbank - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/10 with Harry Middleton

marclloyd77 - 2nd - 22/Aug/10 with Dean Bucknall

Strenuous and sustained getting onto the traverse then a steep move up. Great route!
Marvino - Lead - 17/Aug/10 with Martin, Rach

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 10/Jul/10

DavidR - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/10 with Holly Adamthwaite

not much gear but nice climbing. Matt led the VS
Dave Mahon - 2nd O/S - Jun/10 with Matt Jackson

Diggler - Lead O/S - 21/May/10 with Johnny

John Pickles - 2nd - 07/May/10 with Kieran Hodgson

Pretty scary, wouldn't like to lead. Managed to do without fall though. Good route
andrea83 - 2nd O/S - 10/Apr/10 with Dan

very nice rock over move to reach the easier top slab, overall worth 2 stars, and a much better line than the original
Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 21/Mar/10 with Jools

Hidden - Lead - 2010

loved the moves on the traverse
Bill Lawrence - Lead O/S - 19/Sep/09 with andy lawrence

One small, controlled fall near the top.
garywong - Lead dog - 12/Jul/09 with Mark Shale

robertmichaeladams - Lead - 05/Jul/09 with Jim

Jim Slater - 2nd dog - 21/Jun/09 with Trevor Wilson

CharlieMack - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/09 with Tom Seabridge

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Apr/09

Martin Haworth - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/09 with Marek

aspyrex - 2nd O/S - 11/Apr/09 with Martin Haworth

My last lead climb as a teenager! :/
JCB42 - Lead - 06/Apr/09 with James Turner

Andrew Sloan - Lead rpt - 05/Apr/09

tjmillen - 2nd O/S - 2009 with simon hall

keith leonard - 2009

Seconded after taking a sizeable whipper above the crux on lead. Got flash pumped first time round (not a good warm-up route after a night out) and read the move wrong. Not that hard really.
Si dH - 2nd RP - 14/Jun/08 with Neil Furniss

sadams - 2nd - 09/Feb/08 with Eric Hildrew

daveagriff - Lead - 2008

Hidden - 2008

Will Jung - Lead dog - Oct/07 with Fiona Boothby

trevor macalonan - 2nd O/S - 26/Aug/07 with Tim

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/07

b.hayley - 2nd - Jun/07

greg101 - Lead - 28/Apr/07 with Sarah B

Andrew Sloan - 2nd O/S - 11/Mar/07

nige - Lead - 25/Aug/06 with sven rowan

Marvino - 2nd - 25/Jun/06 with steve

Roch - 2nd - 23/Apr/06

Hidden - Lead - 22/Apr/06

Hidden - 2nd - 28/Aug/05

LoopyLou - Lead O/S - Aug/05 with Helen Lear

Hidden - 2005

Chesh - Lead O/S - Jun/04 with Phil B

gripping and exposed at top. Good route
stp - Solo O/S - 19/Apr/02

Gus - Lead - 2002

Chris Reid - Lead O/S - 27/Oct/01

bullybones - Lead - 2001

Paul-Michael - Lead O/S - Aug/00 with Paul Nurse

Russell Flynn - TR O/S - 13/May/00

Stoney Boy - Lead O/S - 22/Sep/98 with Neil McCallum

Le Chevalier Mal Fet - Lead - May/97 with Richard Bower

nai - 2nd - 1995

Nigel Coe - Lead - 1995 with Ian Birch

Roget - Solo rpt - 03/Sep/94

Nigel Coe - 2nd - May/93 with Scott Titt

Hidden - Lead - 08/Sep/91

Roget - Lead rpt - 07/Jul/91 with chris jones

Hidden - Solo O/S - 13/Jan/90

andrew300169 - 1990

Roget - 2nd O/S - 09/Jul/89 with jim

Hidden - Lead - 1986

Simon2005 - TR - 1984

andy gittins - 1984

Mark Kemball - 2nd - 07/Nov/82

Hidden - Lead - 27/Aug/81

Dave Musgrove - Lead - 22/May/76

mikej - TR - 03/May/70 with John Bickerdyke

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
stvey, hellboundblr, hirving, BWoodward, Albie, Caralynh

Total votes cast 126
hard E10 of 42
E10 of 42
easy E10 of 42
hard HVS4 of 42
HVS35 of 42
easy HVS2 of 42
hard VS1 of 42
VS0 of 42
easy VS0 of 42
hard 5b0 of 43
5b0 of 43
easy 5b1 of 43
hard 5a22 of 43
5a17 of 43
easy 5a3 of 43
hard 4c0 of 43
4c0 of 43
easy 4c0 of 43
3 Stars9 of 41
2 Stars29 of 41
1 Star3 of 41
0 Stars0 of 41
Bag of .....0 of 41
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Style of ascent
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat
Clean RP