Staffordshire > Roaches Upper Tier >
 
Wallaby Direct* HVS 5a

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20m. Follow West's Wallaby to the middle of its traverse then climb steeply to an improving crack and easier ground. © ROCKFAX
FA. Mike Simpkins 1960

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List.

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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 113 logbooks, and on 5 wishlists.

robbiek - 2nd dog - 05/May/13 with Geoff Pyatt

first HVS pretty cool route got some mad disco leg halfway up but all went ok in the end!
shaunhumphreys - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/13 with franhammond92

franhammond92 - 2nd - 20/Apr/13

good
James Oswald - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/13 with Dawn

Hidden - TR - 17/Feb/13

Graeme Hammond - 2nd rpt - 21/Oct/12 with Pete Wimbush

rich led the normal route
Graeme Hammond - 2nd rpt - 20/Oct/12 with Richard

Hidden - 2nd β - 08/Sep/12

David Kay - Lead O/S - 04/Sep/12 with James Hoyes

Hoyes - 2nd rpt - 04/Sep/12 with David K

Haydn Jones - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/12 with pep

JUSTXMike - TR O/S - 23/Aug/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/12

JCAshman - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/12

JCAshman - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/12

jon_gill1 - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/12 with jim braithwaite

came off twice before finding sequence.
Paul Hy - 2nd - 25/Jul/12 with Jack C

Felt quite hard. On my arms quite a lot so got quite tired particularly doing the traverse.
monsteratt - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/12 with Jess

Jessica Taylor - 2nd - Jul/12

The purest of onsights. Did on a misty day, so couldn't see much of the route, no guidebook, no idea if it was a route or where it went. Fantastic fun, greasy due very to bad weather
TommityP - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/12

Matt Cooke - Lead O/S - 31/Mar/12 with Rosh

sara n - TR O/S - 31/Mar/12 with Neal J

lovely climb!
timmyhobby - Sent O/S - 25/Mar/12

shafman - 2nd O/S - 25/Mar/12 with timmyhobby

One tight nut was my downfall! More training needed...
heathergotrumbled - 2nd dog - 17/Mar/12 with AW

nice route pumpy getting the gear in, don't think I followed the normal sequence but flowed nicely through the moves, didn't use the crack much.
CurlyStevo - Lead - Aug/11 with Kevin

littleluke - Lead O/S - Aug/11

Chris had a scary time. I found it quite easy!
mes32 - 2nd - 23/Jul/11

chrisallan - Lead dog - 23/Jul/11

Mike Bayley - 2nd O/S - 16/Jul/11 with Martin Hore

Rested on gear at start of HVS section, fluffed placing gear.
hellboundblr - Lead - 02/Jul/11 with Steve P

HIGHTOWER - 2nd - 02/Jul/11 with Dylan Williams

williamsd79 - Lead O/S - 02/Jul/11 with Mark Freestone

Hidden - 2nd - 02/Jul/11

Hidden - 2nd - 02/Jul/11

Surprised to get up this.
Hoyes - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/11 with Rachel B

The HVS bit wasn't too bad!
Batt - 2nd O/S - 14/Jun/11 with James Hoyes

Julesthe1st - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/11 with Pete

peeturd - 2nd β - 05/Jun/11

DavidR - 2nd rpt - 21/May/11 with Holly Adamthwaite

Brilliant, brilliant , brilliant! Fantastic lower crack, wild hand traverse, tough upper wall ...better than Valkyrie?
The Ivanator - 2nd - 02/May/11 with Stewart

Stewart Armstrong - 02/May/11 with Ivan Bicknell

Took a big fall on the first attempt when off route. Great climb, good moves!
Gigga - Lead - 23/Apr/11 with Dan, shorty83

Shorty83 - 2nd - 23/Apr/11 with Dan Parry, Giles

Onion - 2nd - 23/Apr/11 with Nick A, Giles W

Neil D - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/11 with Beth Hodgett

HKinsella - 2nd - 20/Apr/11 with Neil Dowse, Beth Hodgett

Long fall on this one
Jim Gaffney - Lead dnf - 09/Apr/11 with Claire Poppett

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 26/Mar/11

Hidden - Lead RP - Mar/11

pord - 01/Jan/11

had to weight rope to get gear out lower down...
Betha. - 2nd dog - 2011

Hidden - 2nd - 2011

donkster - Lead RP - 16/Oct/10 with jus, pete buswell

Garron - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/10

riddle - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/10 with Yasmina

Hidden - 2nd dog - 12/Sep/10

Great route!
markfairbank - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/10 with Harry Middleton

Marcos31 - 2nd - 22/Aug/10 with Dean Bucknall

Strenuous and sustained getting onto the traverse then a steep move up. Great route!
Marvino - Lead - 17/Aug/10 with Martin, Rach

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 10/Jul/10

DavidR - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/10 with Holly Adamthwaite

Diggler - Lead O/S - 21/May/10 with Johnny

John Pickles - 2nd - 07/May/10 with Kieran Hodgson

Pretty scary, wouldn't like to lead. Managed to do without fall though. Good route
andrea83 - 2nd O/S - 10/Apr/10 with Dan

very nice rock over move to reach the easier top slab, overall worth 2 stars, and a much better line than the original
Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 21/Mar/10 with Jools

Hidden - Lead - 2010

loved the moves on the traverse
Bill Lawrence - Lead O/S - 19/Sep/09 with andy lawrence

One small, controlled fall near the top.
garywong - Lead dog - 12/Jul/09 with Mark Shale

robertmichaeladams - Lead - 05/Jul/09 with Jim

Jim Slater - 2nd dog - 21/Jun/09 with Trev Wilson

CharlieMack - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/09 with Tom Seabridge

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Apr/09

Martin Haworth - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/09 with Marek

aspyrex - 2nd O/S - 11/Apr/09 with Martin Haworth

My last lead climb as a teenager! :/
JCB42 - Lead - 06/Apr/09 with James Turner

Andrew Sloan - Lead rpt - 05/Apr/09

tjmillen - 2nd O/S - 2009 with simon hall

keith leonard - 2009

Seconded after taking a sizeable whipper above the crux on lead. Got flash pumped first time round (not a good warm-up route after a night out) and read the move wrong. Not that hard really.
Si dH - 2nd RP - 14/Jun/08 with Neil Furniss

sadams - 2nd - 09/Feb/08 with Eric Hildrew

daveagriff - Lead - 2008

Hidden - 2008

Will Jung - Lead dog - Oct/07 with Fiona Boothby

trevor macalonan - 2nd O/S - 26/Aug/07 with Tim

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/07

b.hayley - 2nd - Jun/07

greg101 - Lead - 28/Apr/07 with Sarah B

Andrew Sloan - 2nd O/S - 11/Mar/07

nige - Lead - 25/Aug/06 with sven rowan

Marvino - 2nd - 25/Jun/06 with steve

Roch - 2nd - 23/Apr/06

Hidden - Lead - 22/Apr/06

Hidden - 2nd - 28/Aug/05

LoopyLou - Lead O/S - Aug/05 with Helen Lear

mark s - 2005

Chesh - Lead O/S - Jun/04 with Phil B

gripping and exposed at top. Good route
stp - Solo O/S - 19/Apr/02

Paul-Michael - Lead O/S - Aug/00 with Paul Nurse

Russell Flynn - TR O/S - 13/May/00

nai - 2nd - 1995

Roget - Solo rpt - 03/Sep/94

Hidden - Lead - 08/Sep/91

Roget - Lead rpt - 07/Jul/91 with chris jones

Hidden - Solo O/S - 13/Jan/90

andrew300169 - 1990

Roget - 2nd O/S - 09/Jul/89 with jim

Hidden - Lead - 1986

Simon2005 - TR - 1984

andy gittins - 1984

Mark Kemball - 2nd - 07/Nov/82

Hidden - Lead - 27/Aug/81

Dave Musgrove - Lead - 22/May/76

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Hidden, BWoodward, Albie, Caralynh

Voting
Total votes cast 90
hard E10 of 30
E10 of 30
easy E10 of 30
hard HVS3 of 30
HVS26 of 30
easy HVS0 of 30
hard VS1 of 30
VS0 of 30
easy VS0 of 30
hard 5b0 of 31
5b0 of 31
easy 5b1 of 31
hard 5a16 of 31
5a13 of 31
easy 5a1 of 31
hard 4c0 of 31
4c0 of 31
easy 4c0 of 31
3 Stars7 of 29
2 Stars21 of 29
1 Star1 of 29
0 Stars0 of 29
Bag of .....0 of 29
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Style of ascent

Soloed3 of 113 (2.7%)
Lead53 of 113 (46.9%)
Followed44 of 113 (38.9%)
Toproped5 of 113 (4.4%)
Bouldered1 of 113 (0.9%)
Unknown7 of 113 (6.2%)

'Climbed'45 of 113 (39.8%)
clean O/S47 of 113 (41.6%)
clean β2 of 113 (1.8%)
clean rpt7 of 113 (6.2%)
clean RP3 of 113 (2.7%)
dogged8 of 113 (7.1%)
dnf1 of 113 (0.9%)