Rockfax Description
20m. Follow West's Wallaby to the middle of its traverse then climb steeply to an improving crack and easier ground. © Rockfax

FA. Mike Simpkins 1960

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, Roaches HVS Challenge.

Dexter JW 29/Aug Lead O/S

Wild traverse! little rest at the block when i started traversing to soon and was corrected, not much for your feet!

with Popz
rob 528 24/Aug Lead

Really good route, straight forward with good gear, a far more logical finish to west's wallaby. Got a good soaking stripping the gear after a torrential down pour ended play.

Nigel Bond 11/Aug Lead
with Bern Hardman
Simonfarfaraway 08/Aug 2nd
with Shaw
FlavioL1989 07/Jun 2nd O/S

Roaches HVS Challenge #18

MichaelGallimore 07/Jun Lead O/S

Part of the Roaches HVS challenge. We got the silver medal, then it went dark on us after skyline. All routes attempted on-sight. Fun day! Thanks Dan and Flavio!

with Flavio
DanChad 13/May Lead O/S
Le Chevalier Mal Fet 13/May 2nd

As great as I remember.

benw681 10/May -
philmitch 10/May 2nd β
Adamski1986 26/Apr Lead
with Zoe Strong
Hidden 26/Apr Lead dog
oread 18/Apr 2nd
fuzzysheep01 15/Mar Lead O/S
MusicalMountaineer 15/Mar 2nd dog
with Joe
Hidden ??/2015 Lead O/S
GermanAlex 12/Oct/14 Lead dog

So annoyed with myself... did the upper traverse about five times to get the correct & good gear in the right-hand crack, thereby getting completely pumped and couldn't do the move to excellent hand holds (which I didn't know) any more. Shook out, reached up a tiny bit, and found jugs. Should have just gone for it!

with Arno
cpforbes 09/Aug/14 2nd dog
Tim Rodgers 09/Aug/14 Lead
with Chris Down
Andrew Abraham 13/Jul/14 Lead O/S
monsteratt 13/Jul/14 2nd rpt
Roisin 11/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/14 2nd O/S
Shawty 28/Jun/14 Lead O/S
poigol5043 28/Jun/14 Lead
will_benfold 14/Jun/14 2nd rpt
Pintsize 14/Jun/14 Lead
JimboWizbo 26/May/14 Lead O/S

Great first route, two stars surely! Must have climbed well because it felt good at HVS

with gaz, Beth
hirving 17/May/14 TR O/S

Climbed it after Quinn had done it and watched Crosby and Woody fall before i did it. first section needs to be done quickly and then you get a good rest (awkward if tall). really want to lead it

quinn sorabjee 17/May/14 TR rpt
Hidden 17/May/14 TR O/S
matt8hew88 17/May/14 TR dnf
jordangolding 17/May/14 TR O/S
Jacob Hodge 95 17/Apr/14 TR O/S
with peter chapman
JakeWShaw 29/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Found it as pumpy as the sloth!

with Shaun
mark4344 27/Sep/13 Lead dog

arms were jelly after doing the sloth and sauls crack. found top crack really hard work though and took a decent fall.

with Matt Payne
vanderz 08/Sep/13 Lead O/S
dionisys 08/Sep/13 2nd
with vanderz
Hidden 08/Sep/13 Lead O/S
pheotleyr 18/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Absolutely brilliant and spectacular, 3*. Got very pumped on the HVS bit and found it hard, thinking about it now the whole climb is probably rather soft for HVS - no proper 5a move, lots of good gear all the way and a good rest at half height. Just don't spend too much time placing all that gear...

with Mike
Mayaculpa 18/Aug/13 2nd
with Peter
MoWalker3 20/Jul/13 -
with Sue
Hidden 06/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Mike W 16/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/May/13 TR
quinn sorabjee 26/May/13 -
robbiek 05/May/13 2nd dog
with Geoff Pyatt
shaunhumphreys 20/Apr/13 Lead O/S

first HVS pretty cool route got some mad disco leg halfway up but all went ok in the end!

franhammond92 20/Apr/13 2nd
James Oswald 20/Apr/13 Lead O/S


with Dawn
Dawn_K_B ?/Apr/13 2nd
Hidden 17/Feb/13 TR
quinn sorabjee 17/Feb/13 -
Graeme Hammond 21/Oct/12 2nd rpt
Graeme Hammond 20/Oct/12 2nd rpt

rich led the normal route

Hidden 08/Sep/12 2nd β
David Kay 04/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Hoyes 04/Sep/12 2nd rpt
with David K
Haydn Jones 01/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with pep
JUSTXMike 23/Aug/12 TR O/S
Hidden 23/Aug/12 Lead O/S
JCAshman 21/Aug/12 Lead O/S
JCAshman 21/Aug/12 Lead O/S
jon_gill1 28/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with jim braithwaite
Paul Hy 25/Jul/12 2nd

came off twice before finding sequence.

with Jack C
monsteratt 21/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Felt quite hard. On my arms quite a lot so got quite tired particularly doing the traverse.

with Jess
Jessica Taylor ?/Jul/12 2nd
Hidden 19/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Matt Cooke 31/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Rosh
sara n 31/Mar/12 TR O/S
with Neal Jobling
timmyhobby 25/Mar/12 Sent O/S

lovely climb!

shafiq lalloo 25/Mar/12 2nd O/S
heathergotrumbled 17/Mar/12 2nd dog

One tight nut was my downfall! More training needed...

with AW
CurlyStevo ?/Aug/11 Lead

nice route pumpy getting the gear in, don't think I followed the normal sequence but flowed nicely through the moves, didn't use the crack much.

with Kevin
littleluke ?/Aug/11 Lead O/S
mes32 23/Jul/11 2nd

Chris had a scary time. I found it quite easy!

chrisallan 23/Jul/11 Lead dog
Mike Bayley 16/Jul/11 2nd O/S
with Martin Hore
hellboundblr 02/Jul/11 Lead dog

Rested on gear at start of HVS section.

with Steve P
HIGHTOWER 02/Jul/11 2nd
williamsd79 02/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Jul/11 2nd
Hidden 02/Jul/11 2nd
Hoyes 14/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Surprised to get up this.

Batt 14/Jun/11 2nd O/S

The HVS bit wasn't too bad!

Julesthe1st 05/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Pete
peeturd 05/Jun/11 2nd β
DavidR 21/May/11 2nd rpt
The Ivanator 02/May/11 2nd

Brilliant, brilliant , brilliant! Fantastic lower crack, wild hand traverse, tough upper wall ...better than Valkyrie?

with Stewart
Stewart Armstrong 02/May/11 -
with Ivan Bicknell
Gigga 23/Apr/11 Lead

Took a big fall on the first attempt when off route. Great climb, good moves!

with Dan, shorty83
Shorty83 23/Apr/11 2nd
Onion 23/Apr/11 2nd
Neil D 20/Apr/11 Lead O/S
HKinsella 20/Apr/11 2nd
with Neil Dowse, Beth Hodgett
Jim Gaffney 09/Apr/11 Lead dnf

Long fall on this one

Hidden 26/Mar/11 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Mar/11 Lead RP
pord 01/Jan/11 -
Betha. ??/2011 2nd dog

had to weight rope to get gear out lower down...

Hidden ??/2011 2nd
donkster 16/Oct/10 Lead RP
with jus, pete buswell
Garron 26/Sep/10 Lead O/S
riddle 12/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Yasmina
Hidden 12/Sep/10 2nd dog
markfairbank 12/Sep/10 Lead O/S

Great route!

with Harry Middleton
marclloyd77 22/Aug/10 2nd
Marvino 17/Aug/10 Lead

Strenuous and sustained getting onto the traverse then a steep move up. Great route!

with Martin, Rach
Hidden 10/Jul/10 2nd O/S
DavidR 10/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Dave Mahon ?/Jun/10 2nd O/S

not much gear but nice climbing. Matt led the VS

Diggler 21/May/10 Lead O/S
with Johnny
John Pickles 07/May/10 2nd
with Kieran Hodgson
andrea83 10/Apr/10 2nd O/S

Pretty scary, wouldn't like to lead. Managed to do without fall though. Good route

with Dan
Graeme Hammond 21/Mar/10 Lead O/S

very nice rock over move to reach the easier top slab, overall worth 2 stars, and a much better line than the original

with Jools
Hidden ??/2010 Lead
Bill Lawrence 19/Sep/09 Lead O/S

loved the moves on the traverse

with andy lawrence
garywong 12/Jul/09 Lead dog

One small, controlled fall near the top.

robertmichaeladams 05/Jul/09 Lead
with Jim
Jim Slater 21/Jun/09 2nd dog
with Trevor Wilson
CharlieMack 22/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Tom Seabridge
Hidden 12/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Martin Haworth 11/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Marek
aspyrex 11/Apr/09 2nd O/S
with Martin Haworth
JCB42 06/Apr/09 Lead

My last lead climb as a teenager! :/

Andrew Sloan 05/Apr/09 Lead rpt
tjmillen ??/2009 2nd O/S
with simon hall
keith leonard ??/2009 -
Si dH 14/Jun/08 2nd RP

Seconded after taking a sizeable whipper above the crux on lead. Got flash pumped first time round (not a good warm-up route after a night out) and read the move wrong. Not that hard really.

with Neil Furniss
sadams 09/Feb/08 2nd
with Eric Hildrew
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 -
Will Jung ?/Oct/07 Lead dog
with Fiona Boothby
trevor macalonan 26/Aug/07 2nd O/S
with Tim
timharrison 26/Aug/07 Lead
Hidden 11/Aug/07 Lead O/S
b.hayley ?/Jun/07 2nd
greg101 28/Apr/07 Lead
with Sarah B
Andrew Sloan 11/Mar/07 2nd O/S
nige 25/Aug/06 Lead
with sven rowan
Marvino 25/Jun/06 2nd
with steve
Roch 23/Apr/06 2nd
Hidden 22/Apr/06 Lead
Hidden 28/Aug/05 2nd
LoopyLou ?/Aug/05 Lead O/S
with Helen Lear
Hidden ??/2005 -
Chesh ?/Jun/04 Lead O/S
with Phil B
stp 19/Apr/02 Solo O/S

gripping and exposed at top. Good route

Gus ??/2002 Lead
Chris Reid 27/Oct/01 Lead O/S
bullybones ??/2001 Lead
Paul-Michael ?/Aug/00 Lead O/S
with Paul Nurse
Russell Flynn 13/May/00 TR O/S
Stoney Boy 22/Sep/98 Lead O/S
with Neil McCallum
Le Chevalier Mal Fet ?/May/97 Lead
with Richard Bower
nai ??/1995 2nd
Nigel Coe ??/1995 Lead
with Ian Birch
Roget 03/Sep/94 Solo rpt
Nigel Coe ?/May/93 2nd
Hidden ?/May/93 Lead
Hidden 08/Sep/91 Lead
Roget 07/Jul/91 Lead rpt
with chris jones
Hidden 13/Jan/90 Solo O/S
andrew300169 ??/1990 -
Roget 09/Jul/89 2nd O/S
with jim
Hidden ??/1986 Lead
Simon2005 ??/1984 TR
andy gittins ??/1984 -
Mark Kemball 07/Nov/82 2nd
Hidden 27/Aug/81 Lead
Dave Musgrove 22/May/76 Lead
mikej 03/May/70 TR
with John Bickerdyke
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
stvey, Hidden, hellboundblr, Hidden, hirving, Hidden, Hidden, BWoodward, Albie, Caralynh
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 42
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 43
Votes cast 41
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set