Staffordshire > Roaches Upper Tier >
 
Humdinger* E1 5b

Adjacent Climbs
<< Saul's Crack
 
Jeffcoat's Chimney Variations >>
[Tim Trying to finish before dark..., 2 kb]18m. Climb the narrow buttress to the roofs and pull through these powerfully (hard for the short who will have to stretch), eventually trending rightwards. Low in the grade. © ROCKFAX
FA. Mick Guilliard 1969

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, Peak Rock/14/Gritstone After the Gold Rush.

Photo: Tim Trying to finish before dark... © Matt
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 95 logbooks, and on 10 wishlists.

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/14

alex insisted i had to go left from the jug. after 3 attempts to go left I rested on the rope. Then decided to try right & found the hidden jug straight away. there must be a moral in there somewhere.
leon - Lead dog - 07/Jul/14 with Alex

One move wonder.
RFWilkie - Lead β - 03/May/14 with Mark

Ewan Russell - Lead O/S - 01/Mar/14 with Halla

Hidden - TR dog - 16/Feb/14

Lead on Hannes' gear straight after belaying him.
Somerset swede basher - Lead β - 19/Jan/14 with Hannes

adie84 - 2014

Hidden - Lead dnf - 03/Sep/13

Alistair Corbett - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/13 with nick

Seems way harder than E1 and doesn't relent
rd20 - 2nd dog - 23/Dec/12 with David P

Hard move even for the not short. Also ended up facing outwards under the roof, silly!
dprctr - Lead dog - 23/Dec/12 with Robert Dufton

Wayne S - 2nd - 22/Sep/12

Fell multiple times at the crux, very long reach required, felt hard at 5b
claregardiner - Lead - 15/Sep/12

Haydn Jones - 2nd O/S - 01/Sep/12 with pep

Max Lowry - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/12

sgl0jd - 22/Jul/12

TommityP - Lead O/S - 25/May/12

Fell off at the big move, feet weren't high enough...
CLedden - 2nd dog - 25/May/12

Si dH - 2nd rpt - 01/Apr/12 with Olly

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/12

Hidden - 2012

stephenhartley - 2nd - 27/Sep/11 with Burns

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Sep/11

1 rest at stretch move - didn't commit. Got on second attempt - should have gone for it first time!
Martin Davies - Lead dog - 02/Aug/11 with Tim Rogers

Ali.B - Lead dnf - 27/Jul/11

tompilgrem - Lead dnf - 12/Jul/11 with Nick/D

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/11

Long move for a shorty!
gingerwolf - 2nd β - 07/Jun/11

Hidden - Lead - 01/Jun/11

craig naylor - 2nd - 01/Jun/11

mic_b - Lead O/S - 29/Apr/11 with Heidi

Hidden - 2nd - 29/Apr/11

chrisbussell - 2nd - 19/Apr/11 with Tim O'Neill

ChrisBrooke - Lead O/S - 10/Oct/10 with John Inkpen

GF - 2nd dnf - 17/Sep/10

Long reach from the jug on the lip
markfairbank - 2nd dog - 12/Sep/10 with Harry Middleton

juza - Lead dog - 29/Aug/10 with Garry Cooper

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 09/Jul/10

Hidden - Lead dnf - 10/Apr/10

barni - Lead dog - 07/Aug/09 with Strong Jon

Backed off from the crux pumped on lead, then seconded it cleanly. Neil also found it hard and had to rest on lead. Very good route. Went straight through remains of peregrine nest - lots of little bones all over the place.
Si dH - 2nd RP - 24/Aug/08 with Neil Furniss

daveagriff - Lead - 2008

Sean Kelly - 2008

Hidden - 2008

Failed lead, seconded cleanly
Mr Wild - 2nd dog - 20/Jun/07 with Greg

derico - Lead O/S - 07/Jun/07 with Alex M

Hidden - 2nd dog - 07/Jun/07

Hidden - Lead dnf - 07/Apr/07

Xav - Lead O/S - 03/Mar/07 with Reg

reg_measures - Lead O/S - 03/Mar/07 with Xav

mattyork2 - Lead dog - 04/Feb/07 with Alan Royle

Hidden - Lead - 03/Feb/07

Rob Kennard - 2007

Birdo - 2007 with Dave Bird

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/06 with helen gibson

Stig - 2nd dog - 24/Aug/06 with Charlie Reade-Jahn

b.hayley - 2nd - Jun/06

Roch - 2nd - 22/Apr/06

Col_MAN - TR dog - 19/Apr/06 with uni climbers

1 rest - the 5c move is quite hard and I was climbing rubbishly
reg_measures - 2nd dog - 05/Mar/06 with James Wade

A tough lock off at the grade
shark - Lead O/S - 28/Jan/06 with Mike Garton

Long reach
dannyboy83 - Lead O/S - Jun/05 with Felix Coxwell

Hidden - Lead - 23/Apr/05

Ben1983 - Lead dog - Apr/05

mark s - 2005

Feeling very lethargic, pulled over the lip the first time and decided I couldn’t be bothered, so I traversed over to Jeffcoat's Chimney to retret, then decided I did want to do it so went back. Committed to move over lip and fell off, which gave me the motivation I need to get on with it.
Lev - Lead RP - 22/Aug/04

Hidden - Lead dog - 05/Jun/04

Hidden - Lead - 31/Mar/03

Laramadness - 2nd β - 25/Jun/02

goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 20/Aug/00 with Roy Thomas

ArnaudG - 2000

tlr - 2nd - 2000 with Pom

Hidden - Lead - 19/Sep/98

Paul-Michael - Lead dnf - Aug/98 with David Jupp

craig h - 2nd O/S - 15/Feb/97 with Phil B

Hidden - Lead O/S - Apr/96

nige - Lead - 1996 with john buckley

michael burrows - Lead O/S - 23/Apr/95 with richard parry

ColinD - Lead - 14/Apr/95

Nigel Coe - Lead - May/93 with Scott Titt

Hidden - Lead - 1992

Roget - Solo rpt - 08/Aug/91

NickJH - Lead O/S - Aug/91 with NBarrowclough

andrew300169 - 1990

Roget - Lead O/S - Aug/89 with jim

David Smith - Lead - 29/Apr/89 with Mark Gray

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Mar/89

ChrisJD - Lead dnf - 08/Jun/88

Michael Hood - Lead - 17/Jun/84

andy gittins - 1984

Hidden - Lead - 1982

Hidden - 2nd - 15/Feb/81

Mike Owen - 11/Nov/78 with Gavin Peat

GeoffG - Lead - 30/Dec/77

rogerskews - 2nd - 1976 with John Blackburn

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Andrew Abraham, kim.mulji, Gary Coggon, jandyd05, Hidden, ozbaker, Hidden, A Downing, Hidden, Mike H

Voting
Total votes cast 80
hard E20 of 28
E20 of 28
easy E21 of 28
hard E110 of 28
E116 of 28
easy E11 of 28
hard HVS0 of 28
HVS0 of 28
easy HVS0 of 28
hard 5c0 of 28
5c0 of 28
easy 5c12 of 28
hard 5b5 of 28
5b11 of 28
easy 5b0 of 28
hard 5a0 of 28
5a0 of 28
easy 5a0 of 28
3 Stars0 of 24
2 Stars14 of 24
1 Star10 of 24
0 Stars0 of 24
Bag of .....0 of 24
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Style of ascent

Soloed1 of 95 (1.1%)
Lead55 of 95 (57.9%)
Followed25 of 95 (26.3%)
Toproped2 of 95 (2.1%)
Unknown12 of 95 (12.6%)

'Climbed'37 of 95 (38.9%)
clean O/S25 of 95 (26.3%)
clean β4 of 95 (4.2%)
clean rpt2 of 95 (2.1%)
clean RP2 of 95 (2.1%)
dogged17 of 95 (17.9%)
dnf8 of 95 (8.4%)