24m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A classic of considerable antiquity. 1) 18m. Climb the well-scratched chimney passing an overhang on the left (polished) then continue rightwards past the holly to a good stance. 2) 6m. Move left to outflank the overhangs, or for something harder finish up the steep corner (VS 4c). © Rockfax

FA. Stanley Jeffcoat 1913

Ticklists: Connoisseur's Classic Rock, Twelve fine routes in the lower grades at the Roaches, The Roaches - Routes Graded List, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, Western Peak Grit 100 VD - VS, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, 100 Western Grit Stars.

Hidden 18/Oct Lead
Stickle Tarn 17/Oct AltLd O/S

P2, up the corner VS 4c.

Hidden 15/Oct Solo O/S
steveg 11/Oct Lead O/S
with Margarida
Hidden 26/Sep 2nd
Hidden 19/Sep 2nd
DanChad 10/Sep AltLd O/S

Led the first pitch.

Le Chevalier Mal Fet 10/Sep 2nd

Always a pleasure!

Hidden 15/Aug 2nd
Tina Wilkinson 09/Aug 2nd O/S

Brillient climb. 24m.

with Bill (CMC)
Felix la shat ?/Aug AltLd O/S
MichaelGallimore 31/Jul Lead O/S

Vs finish

with Jenny
DeanD 23/Jul Lead O/S
with Nick
jeremyftaylor 18/Jul Lead O/S

First bit up the chimney felt steughtforward but I struggled to find gear and took a brief detour into a neighbouring routes where I could see some placements. Didn't do the top pitch

Tom Amraoui 18/Jul 2nd
Hidden 03/Jul Lead O/S
gobbledigook 27/Jun 2nd O/S
Hidden 21/Jun Lead O/S
Mike Turner 19/Jun Lead O/S

With the harder finish

with Steve Mace
flannery 12/Jun AltLd O/S
with Jack
Rotorslap 11/Jun Lead O/S

Faffed a bit after placing first piece of gear. Lead both pitches

Jamie Everitt 11/Jun Solo O/S
Andy Morley 11/Jun 2nd RP
mapperley samurai 11/Jun Lead O/S

Top bit good at the grade.

with Andy Morley
John Eley 10/Jun 2nd O/S
Nomes 08/Jun 2nd O/S
with Darren
darrenpp 07/Jun Lead
with Naomi
FlavioL1989 28/May Solo O/S
Le Chevalier Mal Fet 19/May 2nd

Finished up the chimney variations. Good value for Vdiff, especially in the damp.

with Jay Ibrahim
Hidden 26/Apr AltLd
Hidden 25/Apr Lead dnf
Rob Royle 19/Apr 2nd
with Gav
gavster 19/Apr Lead
GStone 18/Apr Lead O/S
with Steve Gladstone
Hidden 18/Apr Lead
Jamie Light 18/Apr 2nd
Hidden 18/Apr Lead O/S
tom bre 14/Apr Lead rpt

Climbed this 20 years ago - forgot how good it is!

with andy
Paul Hy 09/Apr 2nd rpt
with Laura
Angus Taylor 08/Apr Solo O/S
Mark Duncan 08/Apr -
MarcyBoy87 25/Mar Lead
Andy Morley 21/Mar Lead
with Bernard Lee
PhillS 19/Mar Solo O/S
with Beaker
Hidden 15/Mar AltLd
James-m-h ??/2015 Lead O/S
JCresswell ??/2015 Lead
DubyaJamesDubya ??/2015 -
philhc ??/2015 -
Gus ??/2015 Solo
adie84 ??/2015 -
georgenvk 15/Nov/14 Solo O/S
Hidden 15/Nov/14 Lead O/S
Max 15 15/Nov/14 2nd O/S

Staffordshire Gritstone Cloudy Enjoyable climb, first multi pitch

with Phil. C
GermanAlex 12/Oct/14 2nd
with Arno
Hidden 03/Oct/14 Lead O/S
ASkingle 03/Oct/14 2nd O/S
with James
Hidden 21/Sep/14 2nd
Chownsy 18/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Chris1234H 13/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Clee 10/Sep/14 2nd
with Matt
Hidden 08/Sep/14 Solo O/S
Hidden 04/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Trevers 24/Aug/14 Lead dnf
wjcdean 24/Aug/14 AltLd dnf

this route is dumb. stupid chimneys. down climbed from the step. i am ashamed

with Trevers
Neil Henson 03/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Jackie
Tomt1er 20/Jul/14 Lead O/S
climbingisgreat 15/Jul/14 2nd

Put several runners in then dad lead the rest.

Vanessa Simmons 10/Jul/14 2nd
with Pete
nclarey ?/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 29/Jun/14 Solo O/S
08nbrierley 29/Jun/14 Solo O/S
with jamie
jazzyjeff 29/Jun/14 Lead


with Holly
jumpingjimminy 13/Jun/14 Lead rpt
with Andy L
stokienomad 15/May/14 Lead rpt
GermanAlex 03/May/14 Solo O/S

solid, good jams

Psych ?/May/14 Lead O/S
vixym 25/Apr/14 Lead O/S
BenedictIEP 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Leleanor93 19/Apr/14 2nd O/S

Awesome climb, glad I was flexible enough to avoid smearing though!

pjames87 18/Apr/14 Lead O/S
td72 14/Apr/14 -
Rockafella 03/Apr/14 AltLd O/S

Sam took the first and main pitch. Attempted the VS finish in the rain but not confident enough. Maybe next time it's dry!

Hidden 29/Mar/14 Lead O/S
eastonator 15/Mar/14 2nd O/S
SuperLee1985 15/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Nice, route. Attempted to do it in one pitch, but the VS finish was quite tricky, bold and un-protected so wasn't comfortable without a spotter. Belayed dan up to the ledge and went from there, but not before Dan got a cam stuck just below the ledge. I had to ab off the ledge and retrieve it before we could continue (luckily i always have a prussic on my harness).

with Dan Easton
Hidden 09/Mar/14 AltLd O/S
Alex_Derbyshire 03/Mar/14 Lead

Back to Lead outdoor after a wet winter.

lloydellis93 03/Mar/14 Lead
Markheighton 03/Mar/14 2nd
Hidden 01/Mar/14 Solo O/S
Purely 02/Jan/14 2nd O/S
with Mat Adams
Caitlin ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
Allanfairfechan ??/2014 -
1176gws 24/Nov/13 Lead O/S

Very fun climb good body jamming before coming out the crack and up onto the belay ledge, finished with the VS 4c variation

with Solo
guschuck 24/Nov/13 Lead β
Theeni 23/Nov/13 Lead O/S
Shakti 23/Nov/13 2nd O/S
ah2013 09/Nov/13 Lead O/S
with Lucas, Tom
Jordanh031 01/Oct/13 AltLd O/S
Rob Royle 29/Sep/13 Lead
with Dave Robins
Hidden 21/Sep/13 Lead O/S
MYox 21/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

Led that stupid wall at the end.

with Maia
david100 14/Sep/13 2nd
jason smeeth 14/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Jenks82
Adelewhiteman 08/Sep/13 Lead O/S
wiswilson 07/Sep/13 2nd
with Marc Colbeck
SteveJB 26/Aug/13 2nd O/S
with Wayne Qualter
gavster 18/Aug/13 AltLd
with rob
Rob Royle 18/Aug/13 AltLd
with Steph, Gav
si_green99 02/Aug/13 Lead rpt
with Greg Spicer
cellomonkey1 01/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Bit greasy. Steve lead 1st pitch, crux near bottom was challenging, Dan lead 2nd pitch, again still damp.

with Dan
Goodstuff 20/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Paul Hy 13/Jul/13 Lead rpt
with Grace J, Ian
JDSwain 13/Jul/13 Lead O/S
grace jones 13/Jul/13 2nd O/S
Paul Hy 10/Jul/13 Lead rpt
ClaireD 10/Jul/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 07/Jul/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 06/Jul/13 Lead
p3tersen 29/Jun/13 Lead
Mayaculpa 25/Jun/13 AltLd

Led p1

FionaNicholson 15/Jun/13 Lead
gsavell 09/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Sarah Knight
GStone 09/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Nice climb. loads of gear.

Chris Harding 06/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Climbed the slab nexts to the chimney and then moved up into the cave

with Danny
terri mc 06/Jun/13 2nd O/S

First pitch only

with Mel Brown
Le Chevalier Mal Fet ?/Jun/13 Lead
with Dave Ackerley
SteveJ30 ?/Apr/13 Lead O/S
jack 9895 13/Mar/13 Lead O/S
richardadventurecafe 01/Mar/13 2nd

Good fun climb.

with Si teasedale
Hidden 01/Mar/13 2nd
TJ Mather 27/Feb/13 2nd O/S

Robbie's first lead.

with Robbie Lander
Ralphus 23/Feb/13 AltLd O/S
tommylongfellow 17/Feb/13 AltLd
mountainpunk 17/Feb/13 AltLd
with Tommy
Hidden ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
gazzij ??/2013 -
baron84 24/Nov/12 2nd
with BramT
BTphonehome 24/Nov/12 Lead O/S
with Baron
poeter210 03/Nov/12 Lead O/S
druss 03/Nov/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 03/Nov/12 2nd β
Hidden ?/Oct/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Sep/12 2nd
Sam Maher 22/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with James Kent
scott.hill 31/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
with Mat Duncan, Alisa
tinyali 31/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

My little brother's first outdoor climb! I lead P1, seconded P2

with Mat Duncan, Scott Hill
Cornish boy 16/Aug/12 2nd O/S

Good route. Had some fun trying to get up the very last section, which I eventually managed on a tight top rope!

with Sean
andy_e 12/Aug/12 Lead O/S
jakethepeg 24/Jul/12 Lead
matthewpwilson 21/Jul/12 2nd O/S

1st pitch only, 2nd looking uninspiring!

laura wilson 21/Jul/12 TR
with colin mcmanus, matthewpwilson
chrisdajenk 14/Jul/12 2nd O/S

nice route with tricky crux to finish

with Martin
Goose4 06/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Alex Haslehurst
Hidden 25/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Strachan 21/Jun/12 Lead O/S
deklan 20/Jun/12 Lead
with mario, jak
Hidden 19/Jun/12 2nd
steve-grigg 18/Jun/12 Solo O/S
i.fish2000 18/Jun/12 Solo O/S
Gary A S 10/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with Clio
Clee 10/Jun/12 2nd
with Gary
Hidden ?/Jun/12 Lead
WillDoyle 28/May/12 Lead β
solfreak 27/May/12 -

Top rope self belay

mol 27/May/12 AltLd
with Caity
caity 27/May/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 26/May/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 26/May/12 Lead O/S
ross brinson 20/May/12 Lead
with Hannah Watson
Steve J P 20/May/12 Lead

1st pitch only

with JD, BW
Bernie Wylde 20/May/12 2nd

sp led

with jd, sp
cjmorrow 20/May/12 Lead O/S
with Clare
hannah watson 20/May/12 2nd
Hidden 18/May/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/May/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Apr/12 2nd β
iang74 16/Apr/12 Lead
PrincessAlbert 07/Apr/12 Lead O/S
byatt2002 24/Mar/12 Lead
jmcshopes 24/Mar/12 2nd

The VS exit is very, very green.

MTBAnimal 21/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Tough getting started on the last pitch.

Hidden 17/Mar/12 2nd
Jay C 03/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

Jack lead the first pitch

with Jack N
JamieSparkes 24/Feb/12 Lead O/S
with PaulG
thomaspomfrett 19/Feb/12 Lead O/S

Did the VS exit

scotty h 03/Feb/12 AltLd β

Started as variations but pretty much ended as the VD, meed to check where to go left of the rather encroaching holly bush.

with Matt Moore
Morris123 ?/Feb/12 AltLd
Sam Melville ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
kez1 04/Dec/11 Lead O/S
with nick brooks
gavinpeach 12/Nov/11 Lead O/S
David Shelmerdine 12/Nov/11 2nd
with Gavin Peach
tmelrose ?/Nov/11 Lead O/S
luke321 15/Oct/11 Lead O/S
sadsetts 04/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Ronny
chedder 02/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with luke watts
swoollock 01/Oct/11 2nd
cragant 01/Oct/11 2nd
marcoleptic 27/Sep/11 Solo O/S
Hidden 25/Sep/11 Lead
Dan Geh 22/Sep/11 2nd O/S
tgeh 22/Sep/11 2nd O/S
with adam jordan, dan geh
Hidden 08/Sep/11 Lead
Hidden 01/Sep/11 Lead
HairyMan 01/Sep/11 2nd
AMJ098 ?/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Dan Geh
Petarghh 09/Aug/11 Solo O/S
Jimbo_28 26/Jul/11 Lead O/S
mhawk 24/Jul/11 2nd O/S
with Julie Hulme
Hidden 12/Jul/11 Solo O/S
liverpooldave 03/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Jul/11 Lead
nathan2day 02/Jul/11 Lead
with Dominik Siedlecki
Duncan Beard ?/Jul/11 2nd

slippery at the grade

Anta Misina ?/Jul/11 2nd
Deano100 04/Jun/11 2nd
Bobling 04/Jun/11 AltLd

Slippy at the crux on the first pitch and that's saying something for someone whose home crag is Avon! Did the variations top pitch. Has a hold snapped? Felt harder than HS with a horrible landing for the first move!

with Dean, Rob H
timatherton 28/May/11 Lead O/S
lewismansell 25/May/11 Lead O/S

Both pitches

Hidden 22/May/11 Lead O/S
Paul Hy 11/May/11 2nd O/S
with Phil B, Ian
Hidden 08/May/11 Lead
iwebster59017 27/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Kirsty810202 27/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 20/Apr/11 Lead
neillkelly 09/Apr/11 2nd
bigroomboy 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S


with Jack
timothy1988 ?/Apr/11 Lead O/S

nice vs at top very polished

p_won ?/Apr/11 Lead
with johnny walker
Hidden 27/Mar/11 Lead rpt
dillsupertramp 27/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Daniel Pitt
dpitt83 27/Mar/11 2nd
with mike dillworth
jon_ridley 20/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Awesome moves just before belay.

Emily Cropton 20/Mar/11 2nd
Hidden 19/Mar/11 Lead
groliver26 19/Mar/11 Lead O/S

with geoff and jonny

Hidden 19/Mar/11 2nd
ross brinson 18/Mar/11 Lead
Stuart Hurworth 09/Mar/11 2nd O/S

A few slightly awkward moves, makes you think about body position a lot for a VDiff! Good climb! Nice VS finish looks good too.

Hidden 09/Mar/11 Lead
Lunar25 08/Mar/11 Solo O/S
chrisbrown_023 06/Mar/11 AltLd O/S

Lead second pitch

with Jamie Fowler
flashpanther ?/Mar/11 Lead
highfivekrissy ?/Mar/11 AltLd
with Andy Waring
fletch540 ??/2011 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2011 Lead dnf
John Mckeating ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
adam 24 ??/2011 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
andrewgarratt 30/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Kim
DOVEY 20/Oct/10 -
with Steve jones
Hidden 16/Oct/10 AltLd
Hidden 26/Sep/10 Lead
Hidden 02/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/10 2nd
Andyp89 ?/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Andy DJ 15/Aug/10 Lead
Hidden 15/Aug/10 Lead O/S
FrJ 08/Aug/10 AltLd

Led first pitch. Dogged second pitch on VS4c variant.

Hidden 31/Jul/10 2nd O/S
chubbyclimber 25/Jul/10 AltLd

2nd pitch - quite tough but enjoyable.

with Pete
Chris Dovey 24/Jul/10 Lead O/S
parksy986 24/Jul/10 2nd O/S
with chris dovey
JWB 18/Jul/10 Lead rpt
with Jiggi
Hidden 18/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
hapymike 10/Jul/10 Lead

altenative finish vs 4c

Hidden 08/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
Peter Metcalfe 03/Jul/10 2nd
Gigga ?/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Becky E 26/Jun/10 Lead

1st pitch only. Wandered on to Jeffcoat's Buttress in search of holds and gear: I've clearly lost the art of climbing polished chimneys!

Hidden 26/Jun/10 2nd
ianslade 22/Jun/10 Lead β
with Dave
Hidden 19/Jun/10 Lead O/S
kiwi boy 12/Jun/10 Lead O/S

crux half up first pitch on move out from chimmey. Nice stance for belay. loads of gear. Enough to hang a landrover on

with keith pascoe
mortifiedPenguin 06/Jun/10 2nd O/S
with Jason Rogers
Jim Malo 31/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/May/10 Lead O/S
lucasp 22/May/10 AltLd O/S

Led 1st pitch which was most of the route. Ditch led second tricky pitch.

with ditch
Hidden 22/May/10 AltLd
Hidden 16/May/10 Lead
Hidden 15/May/10 TR O/S
AmyLauren 15/May/10 TR
with David
AmyLauren 15/May/10 TR
with David
augustus trout 14/May/10 2nd
with Dave BuxtonMC
mad.moo 03/May/10 AltLd dnf

Seconded, stopped after 1st of 2 pitches, as did lead climber.

sklarke 02/May/10 Lead O/S

Very tricky!!! mantling into fields and bracing a long way above the last bit of gear - nice big hex at top though :D

barrylong 24/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Mark Wood
Hidden 24/Apr/10 2nd
gingergeorge 24/Apr/10 Lead
with 15oth trg
Doug Hughes 21/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Paul
Hidden 21/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Apr/10 Lead dnf
Heinrich 18/Apr/10 Sent O/S

Green in places, but a good finish over the slopers toppijg out left.

with Gaz
Pat 350 09/Apr/10 2nd
with Tom T
josh_smith_90 08/Apr/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 08/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/10 -
Shorty83 ?/Apr/10 2nd
with Giles
Laura-lou 15/Mar/10 Lead

Led first pitch then walked off as short on time

catemuir 06/Feb/10 2nd

Incredibly slimy, possibly this improves in summer? Certainly helps if you're tall on this one... had to do a lot of moves very differently to Rich as I couldn't reach half the holds he could!

with Richard Batstone
GF ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 Lead
Ken Taylor ??/2010 -
DomWatson 27/Sep/09 Lead O/S
rfdl100 26/Sep/09 2nd
Tak 13/Sep/09 Lead
Daymo 12/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Richard, Len Oakes
Hidden 12/Sep/09 2nd
Hidden 10/Sep/09 Lead O/S
jack89 31/Aug/09 AltLd O/S

Slippy, but fun Lead on first pitch, didn't realise it was a two pitch climb so finished after first pitch...

with Nick
jumpingjimminy 30/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Ellie
yellowjersey 29/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Blackgoby 22/Aug/09 AltLd O/S

Trace led the first pitch, went a bit off route onto the HS to the right at one point, because she found that way easier? I led the short and difficult second pitch. Tried it from the right, then the middle (gear), then the left as the book suggested (bold first move but easier, as long as you are fairly tall). Trace fell when seconding.

with Tracey
Kaiser999 19/Aug/09 Lead
DannyK 07/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Christos
si_green99 02/Aug/09 AltLd O/S

I lead the first pitch to the top of the chimney and owen topped it out making a nice move on the slab at the top.

with Owen Raybould
Happy Wanderer 02/Aug/09 2nd O/S
with Ken T
nathanroberts89 ?/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Jul/09 Lead O/S
donkster 31/Jul/09 2nd rpt
with DaveNW
Hidden 18/Jul/09 2nd
Hidden ?/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Jun/09 2nd O/S
Hexman 12/Jun/09 2nd
with Hannah
Hidden 12/Jun/09 Lead O/S
aeaton69 09/Jun/09 Lead O/S
JaseSSDD 09/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
with Andy Eaton
jcurley 05/Jun/09 2nd rpt
with Horace
hapymike 02/Jun/09 Lead
will randall ?/Jun/09 2nd O/S
with sarah
Graeme Hammond 30/May/09 Lead O/S
with Sarah New
reinschgm 24/May/09 2nd

Jess and Jacob

with Matt
Hidden 26/Apr/09 Lead
littlenick 25/Apr/09 2nd O/S
jimorothy 24/Apr/09 Lead

Using Paul Nunn's 70s guide we thought a nice little dif to wind down. Ended up on the super-polished VS4c finish which seems to be missing a small flake even at that grade - found that variation harder than Via Dolarosa

with Rachel Crolla
Richard Gilbert 13/Apr/09 Lead O/S

Lovely. Went slightly off route at the top

with Helen
argylectu 21/Feb/09 Lead O/S
with Nick Hutson
littlenick 21/Feb/09 Lead rpt
littlenick 21/Feb/09 2nd dog

for some reason found this route more difficult to second than to lead. can be quite slippery.

Hidden ??/2009 -
Mr Wild ??/2009 Solo
Col Kingshott ??/2009 Lead
keith leonard ??/2009 -
Hidden ??/2009 Lead
Hidden 07/Dec/08 Lead O/S
Alex Winter 15/Nov/08 Lead O/S
with S.Diserens, V.Richardson
Hannah85 ?/Nov/08 2nd dog
superturbo 24/Oct/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Oct/08 Lead O/S
Ben Griffiths 05/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with Camilla
camilla 05/Oct/08 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Oct/08 2nd
markblair 28/Sep/08 AltLd O/S

Nice cave to belay from :-)

with Alison Dixon
MattT88 24/Aug/08 2nd
BeccaSnowden 24/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Mr. K 24/Aug/08 Lead dnf

Found all the holds in and around the initial chimney very green and slimy. Backed off due to no gear placements. Probably pretty straightforward if the holds are dry.

springything 24/Aug/08 2nd dnf
Hidden 17/Aug/08 Lead O/S
tomB 16/Aug/08 2nd O/S
with Ross Pimlott
Hidden 10/Aug/08 Lead dnf
no_more_scotch_eggs 02/Aug/08 2nd O/S
Nobster ?/Aug/08 -
with Jon ???
Ashapalan 30/Jul/08 2nd

Little scared due to sun going down. But a good route.

with ad and hillary
adam06 30/Jul/08 Lead

last moves at the top made it worthwhile. almost fell near the start cuz the rope got caught!

with Hilary Theaker and dave carr
hils theaker 30/Jul/08 2nd
mmalbon 19/Jul/08 Lead O/S

Nice VDiff, although very green. A couple of slightly tricky moves in places, but overall not that hard.

with Simon
Tom Robinson 19/Jul/08 2nd
with Alex Porter
alexporter 19/Jul/08 Lead

Slippery mossy rock. Sun & cloud.

with Tom Robinson
Kamikaze Badger 15/Jul/08 2nd O/S
with Phil Newing
cooper leek ?/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with donk
mark32 06/Apr/08 Lead O/S
tomboyle 04/Apr/08 Lead O/S
with sarah finney
Em66 24/Mar/08 Lead O/S
with Mat
mikeryder 22/Feb/08 2nd
with big rob
dannyboy83 ?/Feb/08 Solo O/S
daza 12/Jan/08 Lead
with Alex
bobboulderer ?/Jan/08 Lead dnf
with Rob Shoosmith
Hidden ??/2008 AltLd
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
Sean Kelly ??/2008 -
carl_coop ??/2008 2nd O/S
gingergeorge ??/2008 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 Lead
Eddie Hung 03/Nov/07 Lead O/S
with Dave Hodgkinson, James Smith
dzlhodgson 03/Nov/07 2nd O/S
with Eddie Hung
Hidden 31/Oct/07 Solo rpt
the rec 20/Oct/07 Lead O/S
with Jules
pebbles 29/Sep/07 Lead

did the VS finish

with deborah AND nicky
Hidden 29/Sep/07 Lead O/S
david the bear 08/Sep/07 -
with Steve
reubensampson 25/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Justyna Gemzala
The Bad Cough 05/Aug/07 Lead O/S
staceyjg 04/Aug/07 2nd O/S
Hidden 04/Aug/07 Lead
gb83 01/Aug/07 AltLd O/S

did the VS 4c finish straight up the corner, nice :-)

Hidden 01/Aug/07 Lead O/S
chriscopps 01/Aug/07 AltLd
Hidden 01/Aug/07 2nd
Zoomer 28/Jul/07 2nd
Jules 210681 28/Jul/07 Lead
Mike W 25/Jul/07 Lead O/S
with Martin
Hidden 09/Jul/07 Solo O/S
Phil Jennings 08/Jul/07 Lead O/S
with Matt Burdekin
Babika 01/Jul/07 Lead O/S
with Dusan Antosik
fruitcake72 02/Jun/07 2nd O/S
mic_b 02/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with mrsbate
jcurley 02/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with Horace
bobpilgrem 23/May/07 Lead O/S
with Bob/Nic
Hidden 05/May/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/May/07 2nd
Hidden 05/May/07 TR
Hidden 01/May/07 AltLd
Hidden 01/May/07 AltLd
dja 30/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
with matt and jason
matt ling 30/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
with dja and jason
mike_hough_uk 06/Apr/07 AltLd

led 1st chimney pitch.....

chri55ie 06/Apr/07 AltLd

Led the last little bit

Hidden 01/Apr/07 2nd rpt
Hidden 26/Mar/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Jan/07 2nd O/S
timmy-ts ??/2007 -
2RoyalAnglian ??/2007 Lead O/S

first climb at the roaches! great fun

with mark ansty
Diggler ??/2007 Lead
LP ??/2007 -
doughboy_swiftandsure 28/Oct/06 Lead O/S

did in one pitch, but i did bastardise this route, following some of the buttress route (went up on right side after first pro placement, before returning to the crack for the finish). my excuse is that everything was sopping wet, and slimy in places, with meant anything other than big juggy holds was out. good pro placements after first overhang, though take lots of large nuts.

with Paul Graves (HOPS)
HeatherF 15/Oct/06 Lead O/S
with My mum and my sister
igneouscarl 10/Oct/06 2nd RP

Tried lead but felt harder than VD. Seconded route in the end, not too pleasant in the chimney.

simonfife 17/Sep/06 Lead O/S
Dave Wearing 17/Sep/06 2nd
with Simonty1
Hidden 17/Sep/06 Lead
Hidden 15/Sep/06 Solo O/S
Alfredo ?/Aug/06 Lead
with Ben R
JPGR 30/Jul/06 Lead
with Yvette
markju 16/Jul/06 Lead O/S

need to practices on setting cams, prefer using nut

with karl
pottsworth 12/Jul/06 Lead

Nice climb, a bit squirmy in places, but generally nice First bit of gear is a bit high, but bomber, after that its just a case of how many big wires you have, and the route will swallow anything you flirtingly waft in it's direction

Alaister Nurse 29/Jun/06 Lead

missed the belay point and did it in a one-er. woops! i agree the first bit of protection is a little high but its solid. At this point I went left, I am reliably informed it is easier to the right. slightly polished

with Edward Jenkins
mick1jones 25/Jun/06 Lead dog

First full lead. Awesome and scary! First pitch no real problems. Set up faulty belay anchor. Fell at start of second and final pitch before placing gear. No worries. Did it again and succeeded. Yippee kyay mf...

with Rod Deaves
DerwentDiluted 25/Jun/06 Lead
with Nicola Pettit
Hidden 07/Jun/06 2nd
dan gibson 04/Jun/06 Solo rpt
Mike Parker 21/May/06 2nd
naughtybadboy 16/May/06 Lead
with simon day
Hidden ?/May/06 Lead
Hidden 16/Apr/06 2nd O/S
aaronthehippy 04/Mar/06 Lead O/S

I hate chimneys! The route being littered with snow a fluffy owl pellets didn't add much appeal.

with Rubin & Rachel
dan gibson ??/2006 -
jackiechimp ??/2006 -
John Lisle ??/2006 -
Sarah Applegate ??/2006 2nd
with Sid Davies
Mark Stitson (ULGMC) 12/Nov/05 Lead
with Andy
Hidden 29/Oct/05 Lead O/S
Si dH 16/Oct/05 Lead rpt
with Ellie and Katie
david morse ?/Oct/05 Lead
with chris todd
Hidden 16/Sep/05 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Sep/05 Lead
Celia Watson 03/Sep/05 2nd
Somerset swede basher ?/Sep/05 Lead O/S
with John Sargeant
Hidden 21/Aug/05 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Aug/05 2nd
Mark Stitson (ULGMC) 20/Aug/05 Lead
with Graham Foster
LoopyLou ?/Aug/05 Lead O/S
with Helen Lear
Caralynh 20/Jul/05 2nd
Hidden 20/Jul/05 Lead
JuneBob 16/Jul/05 Lead O/S
with Alison
Hidden 11/Jun/05 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Jun/05 2nd
kenneM ?/May/05 Lead
with Will Taylor
Hidden 02/Apr/05 Lead O/S
victim of mathematics 20/Feb/05 AltLd O/S
crossdressingrodney 20/Feb/05 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2005 -
Jamie Brown ??/2005 Lead O/S
with Craig
Hidden ??/2005 Lead
Hidden ??/2005 Lead
mwh ?/Nov/04 Lead O/S
with MagnusL
andy tetsill ?/Oct/04 Lead
with Joy Luke Hazel
Rampikino 07/Aug/04 Lead

VS4c finish

with Liz, Ian, Claire, Glyn
donkster ?/Aug/04 2nd O/S
with trigg
BALD EAGLE 24/Jul/04 Lead
with Kamil Weinberg
John Eley ?/Jun/04 Lead O/S
Katie Weston 16/May/04 Lead rpt
Hidden ?/May/04 Lead O/S
mol ?/Apr/04 Lead
with Helen Alderson
Dave Latimer 30/Mar/04 AltLd O/S
Mark Stitson (ULGMC) 15/Feb/04 2nd

used middle of overhang which the old Roaches guide calls 5a

with Cosmin Andron
Jonny M ?/Feb/04 Lead O/S
CurlyStevo ??/2004 Lead
tobydunford 02/Nov/03 Solo O/S
Dux 07/Sep/03 Lead O/S
with Premal
Katie Weston ?/Sep/03 Lead rpt
SteveM 16/Aug/03 Lead
with Bekhs
Snowie 05/Aug/03 Lead O/S
jimshrimp 24/Jul/03 AltLd O/S
Hidden 21/Jul/03 Lead
Alaric 12/Jul/03 2nd O/S
with Isabel B
Hidden ?/Jun/03 Lead
Hidden 26/May/03 Lead
ASchwirtz 03/May/03 Lead O/S
with Shona D'arcy
Hidden ?/May/03 -
Allan Young 26/Apr/03 AltLd O/S
with Rob Morris
roverhead 20/Apr/03 2nd
Hidden ??/2003 -
Hidden ??/2003 -
Gustav ??/2003 AltLd O/S
with Uncle Steve
petekeron ??/2003 Lead O/S


Lev 19/Oct/02 Lead O/S
Stevie_R 23/Apr/02 Lead O/S
with rod
FrankW 20/Apr/02 AltLd O/S
with Joe
Alastair Hudson 20/Apr/02 Lead
with Clare Young
Howard J 14/Apr/02 Lead rpt
with Jon Edwards
platt2000 ??/2002 Lead
Hidden ??/2002 Lead
MontyH 28/Jul/01 Lead O/S
with Andy Lawrance
Will Gordon ?/Jul/01 Lead O/S
with Tom Roberts
Hidden 30/Jun/01 Lead O/S
Retroman3 23/Jun/01 2nd O/S

1st ever climb

with Yan
Hidden 13/Jan/01 2nd
Hidden ??/2001 Lead rpt
Stone Muppet ??/2001 -
Hidden 14/Oct/00 Lead O/S
Howard J 29/Aug/00 2nd
with Jeff Burgum
Hidden 25/Aug/00 Solo O/S
Hidden 10/Aug/00 Lead O/S
Gman ?/Aug/00 2nd O/S
with Ed
Hidden 31/Jul/00 Lead
Russell Flynn 23/Jul/00 Lead O/S
with Jo
bpmclimb 17/Jul/00 Lead O/S
with Clare
sixties 08/Jun/00 Lead
with hrd
spqr 05/May/00 2nd O/S
with Chesh
Steve Pardoe 01/May/00 Lead

Excellent, "traditional", two pitches http://www.pardoes.nildram.co.uk/pages/roach9a18.htm

with Simon Pardoe
chrishedgehog 08/Apr/00 Lead O/S
with Joe Thompson
tlr ??/2000 Solo
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
alan moore ??/2000 -
Howard J 22/Jun/99 Lead rpt
with Sheila Donelon
antroy 15/May/99 Lead
Hidden ?/May/99 Solo
Katie Weston ?/May/99 2nd
Martyn ??/1999 -
Dom Whillans ??/1999 -
Paul-Michael ?/Aug/98 Lead O/S
with Simon Randall
Howard J 03/May/98 AltLd rpt
with Niels Christiansen
buxtoncoffeelover ?/May/98 Lead
Hidden 12/Oct/97 Solo
skygodley 18/Jul/97 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Mar/97 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1997 Lead
Le Chevalier Mal Fet ?/Jun/96 Lead
A Crook 19/Apr/96 2nd
rocktigger ??/1996 2nd
with chopper
Hidden 09/Aug/95 Lead
Howard J 23/May/95 Lead O/S
brady ??/1995 Lead
with John Cameron
Nigel Coe ??/1995 Solo
smudge 05/Jul/93 Solo O/S
Carl Hamer 05/Jun/93 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Feb/93 Solo
SimonN ??/1993 -
stokienomad 23/Apr/92 Lead
nai ??/1992 Lead
Fiskavaig ??/1992 Lead
Hidden ??/1992 Solo
steve prior ?/Oct/91 Lead
with Roz C
SimonN 22/May/91 Solo
Martyn ??/1991 2nd O/S
Ian Archer 01/Jul/90 Lead
with Marcus Sierp
Roget 13/Apr/90 Solo O/S
andrew300169 ??/1990 -
Steve Lenartowicz ??/1990 -
OMSKB ??/1989 Lead
Iain Thow 28/Jun/88 Solo


angry pirate ??/1988 -
Yourlead ??/1988 Lead
with Ric Gregory
Hidden ??/1988 -
andy tetsill ?/Sep/87 Lead
with whitehall instructing
Nigel Bond 20/Apr/85 Lead
with Martin Cash
Hidden 12/Apr/85 Solo
Mark Kemball 13/Mar/84 Solo
Simon2005 ??/1984 Lead O/S
Nigel Bond 28/Nov/82 Lead
with Charlie Leverton
Hidden ??/1982 -
Nigel Bond 08/Mar/80 Lead
with Martin Crosby
Ghastly Rubberfeet ??/1980 Solo
Hidden ??/1980 Lead
leland stamper 14/Oct/79 Solo O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/79 Solo O/S
charlesmfrench ??/1979 Lead O/S
dangerdave ??/1979 Lead
with Nick Elliott
Nigel Bond 07/May/78 Solo
babymoac 25/Jun/77 Solo
Gordon Stainforth 01/May/77 Solo


Gordon Stainforth 30/Apr/77 Solo
Hidden 08/May/76 Lead
Bolt Phobia 07/Mar/76 Solo
with Martyn Hurn
rogerskews ??/1976 AltLd
Chris Terrey ??/1976 Lead
with Roger Wilson
Chris Ellis 21/Sep/75 2nd
with John Hall
Rog Wilko ?/Feb/71 Lead
with Debbie Wilkinson
pneame 15/Oct/70 -
with Tich Smitton
mikej 07/May/69 Lead
with Brian Hill
mikej 30/Apr/69 Solo
with Wil Hurford
Hidden 27/Mar/66 Lead
tapley ??/1964 -
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Lukejoshmueller, TizzyA, SuperLee1985, DanChad, WhipperSnapper, ruthonbike, Hidden, ian2707, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, bernardmordan, Hidden, reckless_rat, Hidden, dpitt83, Skullfire, ben comery, Rob Messenger
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Votes cast 68
Votes cast 59
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set