Staffordshire > Roaches Upper Tier >
 
Jeffcoat's Chimney** VD

Adjacent Climbs
<< Jeffcoat's Chimney Variations
 
Jeffcoat's Buttress Variation >>
[Pushed up the chimney, 2 kb]24m, 2 pitches. A classic of considerable antiquity. 1) 18m. Climb the well-scratched chimney passing an overhang on the left (polished) then continue rightwards past the holly to a good stance. 2) 6m. Move left to outflank the overhangs, or for something harder finish up the steep corner (VS 4c). © ROCKFAX
FA. Stanley Jeffcoat 1913

Ticklists: Connoisseur's Classic Rock, Twelve fine routes in the lower grades at the Roaches, The Roaches - Routes Graded List, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, Western Peak Grit 100 VD - VS, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, 100 Western Grit Stars.

Photo: Pushed up the chimney © Rod Deaves
View all 5 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 540 logbooks, and on 20 wishlists.

Chris1234H - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/14 with Simon Perry

Hidden - Solo O/S - 08/Sep/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Sep/14

Trevers - Lead dnf - 24/Aug/14

this route is dumb. stupid chimneys. down climbed from the step. i am ashamed
wjcdean - AltLd dnf - 24/Aug/14 with Trevers

Neil Henson - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/14 with Jackie

Vanessa Simmons - 2nd - 10/Jul/14 with Pete

nclarey - Lead O/S - Jul/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jul/14

Jamie Skelton - Solo O/S - 29/Jun/14 with Nicky Brierley

08nbrierley - Solo O/S - 29/Jun/14 with jamie

Jammy
jazzyjeff - Lead - 29/Jun/14 with Holly

jumpingjimminy - Lead rpt - 13/Jun/14 with Andy L

stokienomad - Lead rpt - 15/May/14

solid, good jams
GermanAlex - Solo O/S - 03/May/14

Psych - Lead O/S - May/14

vixym - Lead O/S - 25/Apr/14

BenedictIEP - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/14 with Eleanor Jones

Awesome climb, glad I was flexible enough to avoid smearing though!
Leleanor93 - 2nd O/S - 19/Apr/14 with Benedict Powrie

pjames87 - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/14

td72 - 14/Apr/14

Sam took the first and main pitch. Attempted the VS finish in the rain but not confident enough. Maybe next time it's dry!
Rockafella - AltLd O/S - 03/Apr/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Mar/14

eastonator - 2nd O/S - 15/Mar/14 with Lee Cammann

Nice, route. Attempted to do it in one pitch, but the VS finish was quite tricky, bold and un-protected so wasn't comfortable without a spotter. Belayed dan up to the ledge and went from there, but not before Dan got a cam stuck just below the ledge. I had to ab off the ledge and retrieve it before we could continue (luckily i always have a prussic on my harness).
SuperLee1985 - Lead O/S - 15/Mar/14 with Dan Easton

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Mar/14

Back to Lead outdoor after a wet winter.
Alex_Derbyshire - Lead - 03/Mar/14

lloydellis93 - Lead - 03/Mar/14

Markheighton - Lead - 03/Mar/14

Hidden - Solo O/S - 01/Mar/14

Purely - 2nd O/S - 02/Jan/14 with Mat Adams

Caitlin - 2014

Hidden - 2014

Allanfairfechan - 2014

Very fun climb good body jamming before coming out the crack and up onto the belay ledge, finished with the VS 4c variation
1176gws - Lead O/S - 24/Nov/13 with Solo

guschuck - Lead β - 24/Nov/13

Theeni - Lead O/S - 23/Nov/13

Shakti - 2nd O/S - 23/Nov/13

ah2013 - Lead O/S - 09/Nov/13 with Lucas, Tom

Jordanh031 - AltLd O/S - 01/Oct/13

Rob Royle - Lead - 29/Sep/13 with Dave Robins

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Sep/13

Led that stupid wall at the end.
MYox - AltLd O/S - 21/Sep/13 with Maia

david100 - 2nd - 14/Sep/13

jason smeeth - Lead O/S - 14/Sep/13 with Jenks82

Adelewhiteman - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/13

wiswilson - 2nd - 07/Sep/13 with Marc Colbeck

SteveJB - 2nd O/S - 26/Aug/13 with Wayne Qualter

gavster - AltLd - 18/Aug/13 with rob

Rob Royle - AltLd - 18/Aug/13 with Steph, Gav

si_green99 - Lead rpt - 02/Aug/13 with Greg Spicer

Bit greasy. Steve lead 1st pitch, crux near bottom was challenging, Dan lead 2nd pitch, again still damp.
cellomonkey1 - AltLd O/S - 01/Aug/13 with Dan

Goodstuff - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/13

Paul Hy - Lead rpt - 13/Jul/13 with Grace J, Ian

JDSwain - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/13

grace jones - 2nd O/S - 13/Jul/13

Paul Hy - Lead rpt - 10/Jul/13 with Claire D

ClaireD - 2nd O/S - 10/Jul/13 with Paul Hyland

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 07/Jul/13

Hidden - Lead - 06/Jul/13

p3tersen - Lead - 29/Jun/13 with Brad Hopkins

Led p1
Mayaculpa - AltLd - 25/Jun/13 with Jock Smith

FionaNicholson - Lead - 15/Jun/13

gsavell - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/13 with Sarah Knight

Nice climb. loads of gear.
GStone - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/13 with James Rose

Climbed the slab nexts to the chimney and then moved up into the cave
Chris Harding - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/13 with Danny

First pitch only
terri mc - 2nd O/S - 06/Jun/13 with Mel Brown

Le Chevalier Mal Fet - Lead - Jun/13 with Dave Ackerley

SteveJ30 - Lead O/S - Apr/13

jack 9895 - Lead O/S - 13/Mar/13

Good fun climb.
richardadventurecafe - 2nd - 01/Mar/13 with Si teasedale

Hidden - 2nd - 01/Mar/13

Robbie's first lead.
TJ Mather - 2nd O/S - 27/Feb/13 with Robbie Lander

Ralphus - AltLd O/S - 23/Feb/13 with Stefanie Gunst

tommylongfellow - AltLd - 17/Feb/13 with mountainpunk

mountainpunk - AltLd - 17/Feb/13 with Tommy

Hidden - 2013

Hidden - 2013

gazzij - 2013

baron84 - 2nd - 24/Nov/12 with BramT

BTphonehome - Lead O/S - 24/Nov/12 with Baron

poeter210 - Lead O/S - 03/Nov/12 with adrian voss

druss - 2nd O/S - 03/Nov/12 with Byrne Ghavalas, Peter Ocampo

Hidden - 2nd β - 03/Nov/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - Oct/12

Hidden - 2nd - 29/Sep/12

Sam Maher - Lead O/S - 22/Sep/12 with James Kent

scott.hill - AltLd O/S - 31/Aug/12 with Mat Duncan, Alisa

My little brother's first outdoor climb! I lead P1, seconded P2
tinyali - AltLd O/S - 31/Aug/12 with Mat Duncan, Scott Hill

Good route. Had some fun trying to get up the very last section, which I eventually managed on a tight top rope!
Cornish boy - 2nd O/S - 16/Aug/12 with Sean

andy_e - Lead O/S - 12/Aug/12

jakethepeg - Lead - 24/Jul/12

1st pitch only, 2nd looking uninspiring!
matthewpwilson - 2nd O/S - 21/Jul/12 with Colin McManus, Laura

laura wilson - TR - 21/Jul/12 with colin mcmanus, matthewpwilson

nice route with tricky crux to finish
chrisdajenk - 2nd O/S - 14/Jul/12 with Martin

Goose4 - Lead O/S - 06/Jul/12 with Alex Haslehurst

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Jun/12

Strachan - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/12

deklan - Lead - 20/Jun/12 with mario, jak

Hidden - 2nd - 19/Jun/12

steve-grigg - Solo O/S - 18/Jun/12

i.fish2000 - Solo O/S - 18/Jun/12

Gary A S - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/12 with Clio

Clee - 2nd - 10/Jun/12 with Gary

Hidden - Lead - Jun/12

WillDoyle - Lead β - 28/May/12

Top rope self belay
solfreak - 27/May/12

mol - AltLd - 27/May/12 with Caity

caity - 2nd O/S - 27/May/12 with Molly Thompson

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 26/May/12

In one pitch. Climbed the chimney more difficult way. Move from the chimney to the crack is the best, later is just ok.
Maciekman - Lead O/S - 26/May/12 with John

ross brinson - Lead - 20/May/12 with Hannah Watson

1st pitch only
Steve J P - Lead - 20/May/12 with JD, BW

sp led
Bernie Wylde - 2nd - 20/May/12 with jd, sp

cjmorrow - Lead O/S - 20/May/12 with Clare

hannah watson - 2nd - 20/May/12 with Ross Brinson

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/May/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/May/12

Hidden - 2nd β - 16/Apr/12

iang74 - Lead - 16/Apr/12 with Lee Halley

PrincessAlbert - Lead O/S - 07/Apr/12

byatt2002 - Lead - 24/Mar/12

The VS exit is very, very green.
jmcshopes - 2nd - 24/Mar/12

Tough getting started on the last pitch.
MTBAnimal - Lead O/S - 21/Mar/12

Hidden - 2nd - 17/Mar/12

Jack lead the first pitch
Jay C - AltLd O/S - 03/Mar/12 with Jack N

JamieSparkes - Lead O/S - 24/Feb/12 with PaulG

Did the VS exit
thomaspomfrett - Lead O/S - 19/Feb/12

Started as variations but pretty much ended as the VD, meed to check where to go left of the rather encroaching holly bush.
scotty h - AltLd β - 03/Feb/12 with Matt Moore

Morris123 - AltLd - Feb/12

Sam Melville - 2012

Hidden - 2012

kez1 - Lead O/S - 04/Dec/11 with nick brooks

gavinpeach - Lead O/S - 12/Nov/11 with David Shelmerdine

David Shelmerdine - 2nd - 12/Nov/11 with Gavin Peach

tmelrose - Lead O/S - Nov/11

luke321 - Lead O/S - 15/Oct/11

sadsetts - Lead O/S - 04/Oct/11 with Ronny

chedder - Lead O/S - 02/Oct/11 with luke watts

swoollock - 2nd - 01/Oct/11

cragant - 2nd - 01/Oct/11

marcoleptic - Solo O/S - 27/Sep/11

pendlewarrior - Lead - 25/Sep/11

Dan Geh - 2nd O/S - 22/Sep/11 with Adam Jordan, Thomas Geh

tgeh - 2nd O/S - 22/Sep/11 with adam jordan, dan geh

Hidden - Lead - 08/Sep/11

Hidden - Lead - 01/Sep/11

HairyMan - 2nd - 01/Sep/11 with Zoe Taylor

AMJ098 - Lead O/S - Sep/11 with Dan Geh

Hidden - Solo O/S - 09/Aug/11

Jimbo_28 - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/11

mhawk - 2nd O/S - 24/Jul/11 with Julie Hulme

Hidden - Solo O/S - 12/Jul/11

liverpooldave - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/11

Hidden - Lead - 02/Jul/11

nathan2day - Lead - 02/Jul/11 with Dominik Siedlecki

slippery at the grade
Duncan Beard - 2nd - Jul/11 with Dave Smith

Anta Misina - 2nd - Jul/11

Deano100 - 2nd - 04/Jun/11

Slippy at the crux on the first pitch and that's saying something for someone whose home crag is Avon! Did the variations top pitch. Has a hold snapped? Felt harder than HS with a horrible landing for the first move!
Bobling - AltLd - 04/Jun/11 with Dean, Rob H

timatherton - Lead O/S - 28/May/11

Both pitches
lewismansell - Lead O/S - 25/May/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/May/11

Paul Hy - 2nd O/S - 11/May/11 with Phil B, Ian

Hidden - Lead - 08/May/11

iwebster59017 - Lead O/S - 27/Apr/11 with kirsty Brown

Kirsty810202 - 2nd O/S - 27/Apr/11 with Ian Webster

Hidden - Lead - 20/Apr/11

neillkelly - 2nd - 09/Apr/11

nice
bigroomboy - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/11 with Jack

nice vs at top very polished
timothy1988 - Lead O/S - Apr/11

p_won - Lead - Apr/11 with johnny walker

Hidden - Lead rpt - 27/Mar/11

dillsupertramp - Lead O/S - 27/Mar/11 with Daniel Pitt

dpitt83 - 2nd - 27/Mar/11 with mike dillworth

Awesome moves just before belay.
jon_ridley - Lead O/S - 20/Mar/11 with Emily Cropton

Emily Cropton - 2nd - 20/Mar/11 with Jon Ridley

Hidden - Lead - 19/Mar/11

with geoff and jonny
groliver26 - Lead O/S - 19/Mar/11 with Geoff Pyatt

Hidden - 2nd - 19/Mar/11

ross brinson - Lead - 18/Mar/11

A few slightly awkward moves, makes you think about body position a lot for a VDiff! Good climb! Nice VS finish looks good too.
Stuart Hurworth - 2nd O/S - 09/Mar/11 with Marcus Levens

Hidden - Lead - 09/Mar/11

Lunar25 - Solo O/S - 08/Mar/11

Lead second pitch
chrisbrown_023 - AltLd O/S - 06/Mar/11 with Jamie Fowler

flashpanther - Lead - Mar/11

highfivekrissy - AltLd - Mar/11 with Andy Waring

fletch540 - Lead O/S - 2011

Hidden - Lead dnf - 2011

John Mckeating - 2011

PAJames - 2011

adam 24 - Lead O/S - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

andrewgarratt - Lead O/S - 30/Oct/10 with Kim

DOVEY - 20/Oct/10 with Steve jones

Hidden - AltLd - 16/Oct/10

Hidden - Lead - 26/Sep/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Sep/10

Hidden - 2nd - Sep/10

Andyp89 - Lead O/S - Sep/10

Andy DJ - Lead - 15/Aug/10 with CHASETRAILBUILDA

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/10

Led first pitch. Dogged second pitch on VS4c variant.
FrJ - AltLd - 08/Aug/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 31/Jul/10

2nd pitch - quite tough but enjoyable.
chubbyclimber - AltLd - 25/Jul/10 with Pete

Chris Dovey - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/10 with Luke Parkes

parksy986 - 2nd O/S - 24/Jul/10 with chris dovey

JWB - Lead rpt - 18/Jul/10 with Jiggi

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Jul/10

altenative finish vs 4c
hapymike - Lead - 10/Jul/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/Jul/10

Peter Metcalfe - 2nd - 03/Jul/10 with Cath Sullivan

Gigga - Lead O/S - Jul/10

1st pitch only. Wandered on to Jeffcoat's Buttress in search of holds and gear: I've clearly lost the art of climbing polished chimneys!
Becky E - Lead - 26/Jun/10 with Helen Dunnett

Hidden - 2nd - 26/Jun/10

ianslade - Lead β - 22/Jun/10 with Dave

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/10

crux half up first pitch on move out from chimmey. Nice stance for belay. loads of gear. Enough to hang a landrover on
kiwi boy - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/10 with keith pascoe

mortifiedPenguin - 2nd O/S - 06/Jun/10 with Jason Rogers

Jim Malo - Lead O/S - 31/May/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/May/10

Led 1st pitch which was most of the route. Ditch led second tricky pitch.
lucasp - AltLd O/S - 22/May/10 with ditch

sshandy - AltLd - 22/May/10 with Silver Surfer

Hidden - Lead - 16/May/10

Hidden - TR O/S - 15/May/10

AmyLauren - TR - 15/May/10 with David

AmyLauren - TR - 15/May/10 with David

augustus trout - 2nd - 14/May/10 with Dave BuxtonMC

Seconded, stopped after 1st of 2 pitches, as did lead climber.
mad.moo - AltLd dnf - 03/May/10

Very tricky!!! mantling into fields and bracing a long way above the last bit of gear - nice big hex at top though :D
sklarke - Lead O/S - 02/May/10

barrylong - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/10 with Mark Wood

Hidden - 2nd - 24/Apr/10

gingergeorge - Lead - 24/Apr/10 with 15oth trg

Doug Hughes - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/10 with Paul

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/10

Hidden - Lead dnf - 18/Apr/10

Green in places, but a good finish over the slopers toppijg out left.
Heinrich - Sent O/S - 18/Apr/10 with Gaz

Pat 350 - 2nd - 09/Apr/10 with Tom T

josh_smith_90 - 2nd O/S - 08/Apr/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/10

Hidden - Apr/10

Shorty83 - 2nd - Apr/10 with Giles

Led first pitch then walked off as short on time
Laura-lou - Lead - 15/Mar/10 with Paul Shepherd

Incredibly slimy, possibly this improves in summer? Certainly helps if you're tall on this one... had to do a lot of moves very differently to Rich as I couldn't reach half the holds he could!
catemuir - 2nd - 06/Feb/10 with Richard Batstone

GF - 2010

Hidden - Lead - 2010

Ken Taylor - 2010

DomWatson - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/09

rfdl100 - 2nd - 26/Sep/09

Tak - Lead - 13/Sep/09

Daymo - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/09 with Richard, Len Oakes

Hidden - 2nd - 12/Sep/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Sep/09

Slippy, but fun Lead on first pitch, didn't realise it was a two pitch climb so finished after first pitch...
jack89 - AltLd O/S - 31/Aug/09 with Nick

jumpingjimminy - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/09 with Ellie

yellowjersey - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/09

Trace led the first pitch, went a bit off route onto the HS to the right at one point, because she found that way easier? I led the short and difficult second pitch. Tried it from the right, then the middle (gear), then the left as the book suggested (bold first move but easier, as long as you are fairly tall). Trace fell when seconding.
Blackgoby - AltLd O/S - 22/Aug/09 with Tracey

Kaiser999 - Lead - 19/Aug/09

DannyK - Lead O/S - 07/Aug/09 with Christos

I lead the first pitch to the top of the chimney and owen topped it out making a nice move on the slab at the top.
si_green99 - AltLd O/S - 02/Aug/09 with Owen Raybould

Happy Wanderer - 2nd O/S - 02/Aug/09 with Ken T

nathanroberts89 - Lead O/S - Aug/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/Jul/09

donkster - 2nd rpt - 31/Jul/09 with DaveNW

Hidden - 2nd - 18/Jul/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jul/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Jun/09

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 13/Jun/09

Hexman - 2nd - 12/Jun/09 with Hannah

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/09

aeaton69 - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/09

JaseSSDD - AltLd O/S - 09/Jun/09 with Andy Eaton

jcurley - 2nd rpt - 05/Jun/09 with Horace

hapymike - Lead - 02/Jun/09

will randall - 2nd O/S - Jun/09 with sarah

Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 30/May/09 with Sarah New

Jess and Jacob
reinschgm - 2nd - 24/May/09 with Matt

Hidden - Lead - 26/Apr/09

littlenick - 2nd O/S - 25/Apr/09 with dene neal

Using Paul Nunn's 70s guide we thought a nice little dif to wind down. Ended up on the super-polished VS4c finish which seems to be missing a small flake even at that grade - found that variation harder than Via Dolarosa
jimorothy - Lead - 24/Apr/09 with Rachel Crolla

Lovely. Went slightly off route at the top
Richard Gilbert - Lead O/S - 13/Apr/09 with Helen

argylectu - Lead O/S - 21/Feb/09 with Nick Hutson

littlenick - Lead rpt - 21/Feb/09 with dene neal

for some reason found this route more difficult to second than to lead. can be quite slippery.
littlenick - 2nd dog - 21/Feb/09 with dene neal

Hidden - 2009

Mr Wild - Solo - 2009

Col Kingshott - Lead - 2009

keith leonard - 2009

Hidden - Lead - 2009

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Dec/08

Alex Winter - Lead O/S - 15/Nov/08 with S.Diserens, V.Richardson

Hannah85 - 2nd dog - Nov/08

WillBroad - Lead O/S - 24/Oct/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Oct/08

Ben Griffiths - Lead O/S - 05/Oct/08 with Camilla

camilla - 2nd O/S - 05/Oct/08 with Ben Griffiths

Hidden - 2nd - Oct/08

Nice cave to belay from :-)
markblair - AltLd O/S - 28/Sep/08 with Alison Dixon

MattT88 - 2nd - 24/Aug/08 with Becca Snowden

BeccaSnowden - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/08 with Matt Turner

Found all the holds in and around the initial chimney very green and slimy. Backed off due to no gear placements. Probably pretty straightforward if the holds are dry.
Mr. K - Lead dnf - 24/Aug/08 with Martin Parmiter

springything - 2nd dnf - 24/Aug/08 with Kyle Wood

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Aug/08

tomB - 2nd O/S - 16/Aug/08 with Ross Pimlott

Hidden - Lead dnf - 10/Aug/08

no_more_scotch_eggs - 2nd O/S - 02/Aug/08 with loudfish

Little scared due to sun going down. But a good route.
Ashapalan - 2nd - 30/Jul/08 with ad and hillary

last moves at the top made it worthwhile. almost fell near the start cuz the rope got caught!
adam06 - Lead - 30/Jul/08 with Hilary Theaker and dave carr

hils theaker - 2nd - 30/Jul/08

Nice VDiff, although very green. A couple of slightly tricky moves in places, but overall not that hard.
mmalbon - Lead O/S - 19/Jul/08 with Simon

Tom Robinson - 2nd - 19/Jul/08 with Alex Porter

Slippery mossy rock. Sun & cloud.
alexporter - Lead - 19/Jul/08 with Tom Robinson

Kamikaze Badger - 2nd O/S - 15/Jul/08 with Phil Newing

cooper leek - Lead O/S - Jul/08 with donk

mark32 - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/08

tomboyle - Lead O/S - 04/Apr/08 with sarah finney

Em66 - Lead O/S - 24/Mar/08 with Mat

mikeryder - 2nd - 22/Feb/08 with big rob

dannyboy83 - Solo O/S - Feb/08

daza - Lead - 12/Jan/08 with Alex

bobboulderer - Lead dnf - Jan/08 with Rob Shoosmith

Hidden - AltLd - 2008

daveagriff - Lead - 2008

Sean Kelly - 2008

carl_coop - 2nd O/S - 2008 with George Best

gingergeorge - Lead - 2008 with carl_coop

Eddie Hung - Lead O/S - 03/Nov/07 with Dave Hodgkinson, James Smith

dzlhodgson - 2nd O/S - 03/Nov/07 with Eddie Hung

a bit damp and green!!!!!!!!!!
chalk monster - Solo rpt - 31/Oct/07

the rec - Lead O/S - 20/Oct/07 with Jules

did the VS finish
pebbles - Lead - 29/Sep/07 with deborah AND nicky

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Sep/07

david the bear - 08/Sep/07 with Steve

reubensampson - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/07 with Justyna Gemzala

The Bad Cough - Lead O/S - 05/Aug/07 with John Nesbitt

staceyjg - 2nd O/S - 04/Aug/07 with Mark Booker

chalk monster - Lead - 04/Aug/07 with staceyjg

did the VS 4c finish straight up the corner, nice :-)
gb83 - AltLd O/S - 01/Aug/07 with chriscopps

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/07

chriscopps - AltLd - 01/Aug/07

Hidden - 2nd - 01/Aug/07

Zoomer - 2nd - 28/Jul/07 with Julia Bloomer

Jules 210681 - Lead - 28/Jul/07 with glenn bloomer

Mike W - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/07 with Martin

Hidden - Solo O/S - 09/Jul/07

Phil Jennings - Lead O/S - 08/Jul/07 with Matt Burdekin

fruitcake72 - 2nd O/S - 02/Jun/07 with mic_b and mrsbate

mic_b - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/07 with mrsbate

jcurley - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/07 with Horace

bobpilgrem - Lead O/S - 23/May/07 with Bob/Nic

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/May/07

Hidden - 2nd - 05/May/07

Hidden - TR - 05/May/07

Hidden - AltLd - 01/May/07

Hidden - AltLd - 01/May/07

dja - AltLd O/S - 30/Apr/07 with matt and jason

matt ling - AltLd O/S - 30/Apr/07 with dja and jason

led 1st chimney pitch.....
mike_hough_uk - AltLd - 06/Apr/07 with Christine Bailey

Led the last little bit
chri55ie - AltLd - 06/Apr/07 with Mike Hough

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 01/Apr/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Mar/07

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 10/Jan/07

timmy-ts - 2007

first climb at the roaches! great fun
2RoyalAnglian - Lead O/S - 2007 with mark ansty

Diggler - Lead - 2007

LP - 2007

did in one pitch, but i did bastardise this route, following some of the buttress route (went up on right side after first pro placement, before returning to the crack for the finish). my excuse is that everything was sopping wet, and slimy in places, with meant anything other than big juggy holds was out. good pro placements after first overhang, though take lots of large nuts.
doughboy_swiftandsure - Lead O/S - 28/Oct/06 with Paul Graves (HOPS)

hetaher - Lead O/S - 15/Oct/06 with My mum and my sister

Tried lead but felt harder than VD. Seconded route in the end, not too pleasant in the chimney.
igneouscarl - 2nd RP - 10/Oct/06

simonfife - Lead O/S - 17/Sep/06 with D Wearing

Dave Wearing - 2nd - 17/Sep/06 with Simonty1

Hidden - Lead - 17/Sep/06

Hidden - Solo O/S - 15/Sep/06

Alfredo - Lead - Aug/06 with Ben R

JPGR - Lead - 30/Jul/06 with Yvette

need to practices on setting cams, prefer using nut
markju - Lead O/S - 16/Jul/06 with karl

Nice climb, a bit squirmy in places, but generally nice First bit of gear is a bit high, but bomber, after that its just a case of how many big wires you have, and the route will swallow anything you flirtingly waft in it's direction
pottsworth - Lead - 12/Jul/06

missed the belay point and did it in a one-er. woops! i agree the first bit of protection is a little high but its solid. At this point I went left, I am reliably informed it is easier to the right. slightly polished
Alaister Nurse - Lead - 29/Jun/06 with Edward Jenkins

First full lead. Awesome and scary! First pitch no real problems. Set up faulty belay anchor. Fell at start of second and final pitch before placing gear. No worries. Did it again and succeeded. Yippee kyay mf...
mick1jones - Lead dog - 25/Jun/06 with Rod Deaves

DerwentDiluted - Lead - 25/Jun/06 with Nicola Pettit

Hidden - 2nd - 07/Jun/06

dan gibson - Solo rpt - 04/Jun/06

Mike Parker - 2nd - 21/May/06 with Dan Parker

naughtybadboy - Lead - 16/May/06 with simon day

Hidden - Lead - May/06

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 16/Apr/06

I hate chimneys! The route being littered with snow a fluffy owl pellets didn't add much appeal.
aaronthehippy - Lead O/S - 04/Mar/06 with Rubin & Rachel

dan gibson - 2006

jackiechimp - 2006

John Lisle - 2006

Sarah Applegate - 2nd - 2006 with Sid Davies

Mark Stitson (ULGMC) - Lead - 12/Nov/05 with Andy

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Oct/05

Si dH - Lead rpt - 16/Oct/05 with Ellie and Katie

david morse - Lead - Oct/05 with chris todd

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Sep/05

Hidden - Lead - 03/Sep/05

Celia Watson - 2nd - 03/Sep/05 with stuart watson

Somerset swede basher - Lead O/S - Sep/05 with John Sargeant

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/05

Hidden - 2nd - 21/Aug/05

Mark Stitson (ULGMC) - Lead - 20/Aug/05 with Graham Foster

LoopyLou - Lead O/S - Aug/05 with Helen Lear

Caralynh - 2nd - 20/Jul/05 with Jez Hadall

Hidden - Lead - 20/Jul/05

JuneBob - Lead O/S - 16/Jul/05 with Alison

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/05

Hidden - 2nd - 11/Jun/05

kenneM - Lead - May/05 with Will Taylor

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Apr/05

victim of mathematics - AltLd O/S - 20/Feb/05 with crossdressingrodney

crossdressingrodney - AltLd O/S - 20/Feb/05 with victim of mathematics

mark s - 2005

Jamie Brown - Lead O/S - 2005 with Craig

Hidden - Lead - 2005

Hidden - Lead - 2005

mwh - Lead O/S - Nov/04 with MagnusL

andy tetsill - Lead - Oct/04 with Joy Luke Hazel

VS4c finish
Rampikino - Lead - 07/Aug/04 with Liz, Ian, Claire, Glyn

donkster - 2nd O/S - Aug/04 with trigg

BALD EAGLE - Lead - 24/Jul/04 with Kamil Weinberg

John Eley - Lead O/S - Jun/04

Katie Weston - Lead rpt - 16/May/04

Hidden - Lead O/S - May/04

mol - Lead - Apr/04 with Helen Alderson

Dave Latimer - AltLd O/S - 30/Mar/04

used middle of overhang which the old Roaches guide calls 5a
Mark Stitson (ULGMC) - 2nd - 15/Feb/04 with Cosmin Andron

Jonny M - Lead O/S - Feb/04 with Rich Cole

CurlyStevo - Lead - 2004

tobydunford - Solo O/S - 02/Nov/03

Dux - Lead O/S - 07/Sep/03 with Premal

Katie Weston - Lead rpt - Sep/03

SteveM - Lead - 16/Aug/03 with Bekhs

Hidden - Lead - 21/Jul/03

Alaric - 2nd O/S - 12/Jul/03 with Isabel B

Hidden - Lead - Jun/03

Hidden - Lead - 26/May/03

ASchwirtz - Lead O/S - 03/May/03 with Shona D'arcy

Hidden - May/03

Allan Young - AltLd O/S - 26/Apr/03 with Rob Morris

roverhead - 2nd - 20/Apr/03

Hidden - 2003

Hidden - 2003

Gustav - AltLd O/S - 2003 with Uncle Steve

M
petekeron - Lead O/S - 2003

Lev - Lead O/S - 19/Oct/02

Stevie_R - Lead O/S - 23/Apr/02 with rod

FrankW - AltLd O/S - 20/Apr/02 with Joe

Howard J - Lead rpt - 14/Apr/02 with Jon Edwards

platt2000 - Lead - 2002

Hidden - Lead - 2002

MontyH - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/01 with Andy Lawrance

Will Gordon - Lead O/S - Jul/01 with Tom Roberts

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/01

1st ever climb
Retroman3 - 2nd O/S - 23/Jun/01 with Yan

Mark Adams - 2nd - 13/Jan/01

Hidden - Lead rpt - 2001

Stone Muppet - 2001

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Oct/00

Howard J - 2nd - 29/Aug/00 with Jeff Burgum

Hidden - Solo O/S - 25/Aug/00

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Aug/00

Gman - 2nd O/S - Aug/00 with Ed

Hidden - Lead - 31/Jul/00

Russell Flynn - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/00 with Jo

bpmclimb - Lead O/S - 17/Jul/00 with Clare

sixties - Lead - 08/Jun/00 with hrd

spqr - 2nd O/S - 05/May/00 with Chesh

Excellent, "traditional", two pitches http://www.pardoes.nildram.co.uk/pages/roach9a18.htm
Steve Pardoe - Lead - 01/May/00 with Simon Pardoe

chrishedgehog - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/00 with Joe Thompson

tlr - Solo - 2000

Hidden - Lead - 2000

alan moore - 2000

Howard J - Lead rpt - 22/Jun/99 with Sheila Donelon

antroy - Lead - 15/May/99

Hidden - Solo - May/99

Katie Weston - 2nd - May/99

Martyn - 1999

Dom Whillans - 1999

Paul-Michael - Lead O/S - Aug/98 with Simon Randall

Howard J - AltLd rpt - 03/May/98 with Niels Christiansen

buxtoncoffeelover - Lead - May/98

Hidden - Solo - 12/Oct/97

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Mar/97

Hidden - Lead - 1997

Le Chevalier Mal Fet - Lead - Jun/96

A Crook - 2nd - 19/Apr/96 with Dom Stockton

rocktigger - 2nd - 1996 with chopper

Hidden - Lead - 09/Aug/95

Howard J - Lead O/S - 23/May/95

brady - Lead - 1995 with John Cameron

Nigel Coe - Solo - 1995

smudge - Solo O/S - 05/Jul/93

Hidden - Solo - 21/Feb/93

SimonN - 1993

stokienomad - Lead - 23/Apr/92

Hidden - Lead - 1992

Fiskavaig - Lead - 1992

Hidden - Solo - 1992

steve prior - Lead - Oct/91

SimonN - Solo - 22/May/91

Martyn - 2nd O/S - 1991

Ian Archer - Lead - 01/Jul/90 with Marcus Sierp

Roget - Solo O/S - 13/Apr/90

andrew300169 - 1990

Steve Lenartowicz - 1990

OMSKB - Lead - 1989

.
Iain Thow - Solo - 28/Jun/88

angry pirate - 1988

Yourlead - Lead - 1988 with Ric Gregory

Hidden - 1988

andy tetsill - Lead - Sep/87 with whitehall instructing

Nigel Bond - Lead - 20/Apr/85 with Martin Cash

Hidden - Solo - 12/Apr/85

Mark Kemball - Solo - 13/Mar/84

Simon2005 - Lead O/S - 1984

Nigel Bond - Lead - 28/Nov/82 with Charlie Leverton

Hidden - 1982

Nigel Bond - Lead - 08/Mar/80 with Martin Crosby

Ghastly Rubberfeet - Solo - 1980

Hidden - Lead - 1980

leland stamper - Solo O/S - 14/Oct/79

Hidden - Solo O/S - Sep/79

charlesmfrench - Lead O/S - 1979

dangerdave - Lead - 1979 with Nick Elliott

Nigel Bond - Solo - 07/May/78

babymoac - Solo - 25/Jun/77

Repeat
Gordon Stainforth - Solo - 01/May/77

Gordon Stainforth - Solo - 30/Apr/77

JohnHutch - Lead - 08/May/76 with BA

Bolt Phobia - Solo - 07/Mar/76 with Martyn Hurn

rogerskews - AltLd - 1976

Chris Ellis - 2nd - 21/Sep/75 with John Hall

Rog Wilko - Lead - Feb/71 with Debbie Wilkinson

pneame - 15/Oct/70 with Tich Smitton

mikej - Lead - 07/May/69 with Brian Hill

mikej - Solo - 30/Apr/69 with Wil Hurford

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Chownsy, Chris1234H, Hidden, SuperLee1985, DanChad, WhipperSnapper, ruthonbike, Hidden, ian2707, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, bernardmordan, Hidden, reckless_rat, Hidden, dpitt83, Skullfire, ben comery, Rob Messenger

Voting
Total votes cast 108
hard HVD0 of 58
HVD0 of 58
easy HVD7 of 58
hard VD30 of 58
VD21 of 58
easy VD0 of 58
hard HD0 of 58
HD0 of 58
easy HD0 of 58
3 Stars6 of 50
2 Stars30 of 50
1 Star13 of 50
0 Stars0 of 50
Bag of .....1 of 50
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent

Soloed40 of 540 (7.4%)
Lead283 of 540 (52.4%)
Followed117 of 540 (21.7%)
Toproped5 of 540 (0.9%)
Bouldered1 of 540 (0.2%)
Alt Leads52 of 540 (9.6%)
Unknown42 of 540 (7.8%)

'Climbed'251 of 540 (46.5%)
clean O/S250 of 540 (46.3%)
clean β6 of 540 (1.1%)
clean rpt20 of 540 (3.7%)
clean RP1 of 540 (0.2%)
dogged3 of 540 (0.6%)
dnf9 of 540 (1.7%)