28m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A route with an arduous (and avoidable) start. Using the chimney start lowers the route to a more amenable HS 4b. 1) 5a, 18m. Climb the fingery polished scoop by a long reach, or avoid it by the chimney on the left. Weave up towards the overhangs, pulling over a bulge with difficulty to enter a groove. Trend right below the huge roofs to the 'pipe' stance. 2) 3c, 10m. The pleasant jamming cracks on the right are awkward to enter and soon lead to the cliff top. © Rockfax

FA. Stanley Jeffcoat 1913

Ticklists: The Roaches - Routes Graded List, Western Peak Grit 100 VD - VS, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, 100 Western Grit Stars, Northern (Yorkshire !?) Climbs for a Southerner.

mark44 25/Oct -
steely 15/Oct AltLd O/S
rosiehawker 11/Oct -
with Ross Garfoot
Hidden 11/Oct AltLd O/S
Hidden 04/Oct 2nd
Calum Wadsworth 04/Oct Lead O/S
with Emma
petern 04/Oct 2nd O/S
with jane gilmour
Hidden 04/Oct Lead O/S
Montecore 03/Oct Lead O/S

Did the 5a start this time - v nice

with Rebecca North
Rebecca North 03/Oct 2nd O/S

5a start. Really interesting climb.

Hidden 28/Sep 2nd O/S
mark4344 28/Sep Lead O/S
with Michel
Hidden 25/Sep Lead O/S
Jackwd 20/Sep Lead O/S

Would be a hard start for a HS leader. Not much gear and moves, the rest is a doddle!

charley 20/Sep 2nd O/S
with JackD
DrIan 19/Sep 2nd
with Kevin
Hidden 13/Sep AltLd dog
pawel suhy 13/Sep 2nd RP
with Antonio PCC, Irena PCC
Neal Jobling 13/Sep AltLd rpt
with Tracy
Kemics 09/Sep Lead O/S

As one pitch. Lovely. Made the first moves harder than they needed to be. Probably 5a if you do it right! The HS 5a grade actually works.

with Mel
Dafydd Llywelyn 07/Sep Solo O/S
mike_w18 05/Sep Lead O/S
with Neil
Hidden 05/Sep 2nd
Antonio Ferra ?/Sep Lead O/S
5cme2810 28/Aug AltLd O/S

Multi-pitch practice

Hidden 22/Aug 2nd O/S
Matt Smith 22/Aug Lead O/S

As one pitch.

Gav Williams 16/Aug 2nd
with Rowan
Hidden 15/Aug AltLd O/S
mikespooner 08/Aug Lead

Ran together

with Ed Shaw, Jo Davison
leesa.rushton 02/Aug 2nd O/S
Felix la shat ?/Aug AltLd O/S
Hidden 25/Jul Lead O/S
ColdAndWet 15/Jul Lead
JohnBotham 15/Jul 2nd
Dan Vaj 11/Jul 2nd rpt
petegruf 10/Jul 2nd
with john evans, patrick h
Cheese Monkey 05/Jul Lead O/S
with Vienna
guy757 11/Jun -
Ross88 07/Jun Lead O/S
with Danny A
Andrew Abraham 06/Jun Lead rpt
with Chris Wallis, Paul Sherman
Trobbo 30/May 2nd O/S
with simon fenna
Jamie Everitt 26/May Lead O/S

Very nice, lead it in one pitch on 5a start although it feels more like 4c.

FlavioL1989 26/May 2nd O/S
KeenClimber 21/May Lead O/S
AngelaC 01/May AltLd

Couple of attempts at start requured!

Psych ?/May Lead O/S
FraserMcClennan 25/Apr 2nd
Hidden 18/Apr Lead
alias dave 18/Apr Lead O/S
Daniel Allen 18/Apr 2nd O/S
Anthony Dixon 15/Apr Lead O/S
with Shann
Matt_C9716 14/Apr 2nd
with Neil
foostu4 13/Apr Lead O/S
Hoyes 09/Apr Lead O/S
MarcinGobczynski 07/Apr Lead O/S
scottcoates 05/Apr AltLd O/S
druss 05/Apr AltLd O/S

First pitch. Very nice move at the beginning but doesn't feel 5a.

with Aidan
Sardien 04/Apr 2nd
stevied01 22/Mar Lead O/S

5a Start. An absolutely cracking route, highly recommended. The position, variety and nice exposure on final easy pitch are not to be missed. I do not know why this is not as popular as the other routes (black and tans etc). Gear is good once reached, run out slightly for the tech grade. In fairness new partner could not pull initial move sequence.

mattc 15/Mar Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Mar 2nd O/S
jack_44 07/Mar Lead
jack_44 07/Mar Lead
philhc ??/2015 -
AlexxelA 15/Nov/14 Lead O/S

Found this fun, lead both pitches. Took the easy chimney start as hadn't climbed for months and it was slimey. Traversing out on very green and slimy ledge was spicy. Top bit ended a bit too soon.

cem 15/Nov/14 2nd rpt
Kirill 15/Nov/14 Lead O/S
Stuart William 11/Oct/14 2nd
with Mark
Hidden 05/Oct/14 Lead O/S
jkarran 28/Sep/14 TR

Hilarious 4 on the ledge rope disaster :)

with Czech Tom, Simon, Sarah
Hidden 28/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Sep/14 Solo
Martin Bagshaw 28/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Lead 2nd pitch. Neil's first 5a lead.

with Neil Passmore
StevieJ 20/Sep/14 AltLd

Led 2nd pitch

with Mark
Mark1800 20/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Led it all in one pitch, really nice route

with Stevie
Hidden 14/Sep/14 Lead O/S
philhilo 14/Sep/14 2nd O/S
with Helen E
brew_guru 14/Sep/14 Lead O/S

5a start, good route.

with Jade
TomGB 07/Sep/14 2nd O/S

Adam led as one pitch. Both did the 5a start

Hidden 06/Sep/14 2nd
holly138 06/Sep/14 2nd O/S
with Tom B
Hidden 06/Sep/14 2nd dog
David Stevens 03/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Christina Holmgrun
Jim Slater 31/Aug/14 Lead rpt
jonhowson 31/Aug/14 2nd O/S

A fun start and a nice varied route. No idea why this is two pitches. Bit squishy after rain.

Mike Hood 28/Aug/14 Lead
MikeLell 09/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Fraser
benlatham07 09/Aug/14 2nd O/S
leoch01 09/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

lead second pitch

strudles 09/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Leo choi
67hours 26/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Led P1, with a hand from the gulley on the LHS for the start.

with Matt Cookie
Matt Cooke 26/Jul/14 2nd β
with George Cave
Hidden 25/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Davidchatterton 20/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 20/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
alany4 20/Jul/14 2nd O/S
frume 16/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Alex Spalding
Jack Whiteley 16/Jul/14 AltLd O/S


with John Hayes
SPD224 12/Jul/14 2nd
with Jo Sunderland, Martin Smith
poigol5043 12/Jul/14 Lead
planetmarshall 09/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
amy 06/Jul/14 2nd
charlielow 21/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Lead second pitch. Such an amazing route!

benlatham07 21/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Ella7 21/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

5a start with a mat - unprotected for a good way! What a great route. Perfect for Charlie and I. Face climbing then jamming cracks.

alaster tonge 14/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Assad Lahlou
Alex Whittaker 14/Jun/14 2nd
john_ni 14/Jun/14 Lead O/S

with the 5a start, as one pitch

with Dave Stacey
Hidden 14/Jun/14 2nd O/S
liverpooldave 14/Jun/14 2nd O/S

John B lead

jumpingjimminy 13/Jun/14 2nd O/S
with Andy L
Hidden 08/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Jun/14 Lead O/S
GermanAlex 30/May/14 Lead O/S

As one pitch. The bottom move was actually a lot easier than I anticipated, nice route.

with Arno
noemie5438 26/May/14 AltLd
with Ian P.
MichaelGallimore 18/May/14 AltLd O/S

Led p1. I may have missed some vital hold, but ithe move I did was more like 5b. Short lived difficulty and stunning climb after. The traverse was one of the best positions I've been in on grit. Interesting metal chock at belay- imagine what the first ascensionists belays were like. Brendan led p2, reminiscent of black & tans.

with Brendan
Dave Turnbull, BMC 05/May/14 Lead
with Roland Strube, Harry Turnbull
Jake Howard 04/May/14 AltLd

Lead second pitch

with Tomasz Smith
Tomasz Smith 04/May/14 AltLd
tom bre 27/Apr/14 2nd O/S

Quality climb

Hidden 27/Apr/14 Lead rpt
PeteMc 23/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
tom0french 23/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
Joemanglerocks 18/Apr/14 Lead
with Satoshi Kimura
Dan Vaj 12/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Apr/14 2nd O/S
muwasi 09/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
with Isaac, Chris
chris67 09/Apr/14 2nd O/S
Drew Bennett 30/Mar/14 Lead
BareBears 30/Mar/14 Lead β

Avoided the difficult start but lead as a single pitch.

with Dale
Rob Davies 30/Mar/14 Lead

Several attempts over the years to do this start, eventually successful - most 5b moves seem easier to me!

with Mike Jones
Hidden 29/Mar/14 Lead O/S
ClemB 29/Mar/14 2nd
Hidden 29/Mar/14 2nd
Matt250 16/Mar/14 Lead O/S
alexm198 15/Mar/14 AltLd O/S

Led P1. The 5a start was a bit puzzling but the difficulties are shortlived. Quite nervy padding up the slabs above to good gear..

ecromwell 15/Mar/14 AltLd O/S

Had to rinse second pitch in order to put in gear for Rob who was having a mare on Black and Tan!

Hidden 09/Mar/14 -
Dave Rumney 09/Mar/14 -
with Tanya Milner
CptCatastrophe 01/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Airy start

Ban1 ?/Mar/14 Lead O/S
tjrukc ??/2014 -
adie84 ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
Eoinparker 23/Nov/13 AltLd O/S

Hass led first - low on protection at points...

HassenBali 23/Nov/13 AltLd O/S
petejarrett 16/Nov/13 Lead O/S
Dave Latimer 07/Nov/13 AltLd O/S
ChrisBrooke 06/Oct/13 2nd
with Nick Barratt
Indy92 05/Oct/13 Lead O/S
Siobhan McGowan 05/Oct/13 2nd
Montecore ?/Oct/13 Lead O/S

Started up the chimney and traversed over (no gear for 5m if you go this way, brrr)

with Ranveig Berg, Seth Redmond
Mark Collins 28/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Derek Robinson
Derek Robinson 28/Sep/13 2nd dog
Hidden 22/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Tony Ryland 22/Sep/13 2nd
with Steve Barby
williap 22/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Sep/13 Lead O/S
egg-man 22/Sep/13 2nd RP

Start is much harder for the short.

with John Pickles
Hidden 22/Sep/13 2nd
Jim Slater 21/Sep/13 2nd O/S
with Trevor Wilson
Hidden 21/Sep/13 2nd O/S
MYox 21/Sep/13 Lead

Cool moves at the beginning.

with Maia
Hidden 14/Sep/13 Lead
Hidden 29/Aug/13 2nd
wishicud climbHVS 28/Aug/13 Lead
Hidden 28/Aug/13 Lead O/S
jaamez 26/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Ray led the second pitch. Ruined by spindrift of flying ants tumbling down on our heads!

with Ray Birch
jaamez 26/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Ray led the second pitch. Ruined by spindrift of flying ants tumbling down on our heads!

with Ray Birch
oodie72 25/Aug/13 Lead O/S
chancer 25/Aug/13 2nd O/S
David Kay 11/Aug/13 2nd
with Jules Lane
Jules Lane 11/Aug/13 Lead RP

Got the first 5a move to the first good hold easily and placed a wire, but then due to poor footwork, failed to complete the final hard move, so came down and did it second time. Completed the route in 1 pitch - all good fun.

with Mynydd Dave K
Hidden ?/Aug/13 Solo O/S
JWB 27/Jul/13 AltLd

Me pitch 1. P2 Alan. Bit of a bold start.....

with Alan Segar
Hidden 27/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
MoWalker3 20/Jul/13 AltLd
with neilH
Neil Henson 20/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Led 2nd pitch

with Mo Walker
thomaspomfrett 18/Jul/13 Lead O/S
lesmarsden 18/Jul/13 2nd β

I was so close to getting up the first bit, but twice just could not find enough friction to make my foot stick, or more left arm umph needed (not there at the end of a long day)still once over the first part the rest was a good challenge - great stuff

John Holden 09/Jul/13 Lead
with Simon Snowdon
gavster 07/Jul/13 Lead
with rob
Rob Royle 07/Jul/13 2nd
with Gav
Andrew Abraham ?/Jul/13 Lead

Great route, sweated it out in scorching sunshine. Did it in one pitch to save the hassle of a belay.

with Ceara
p3tersen 29/Jun/13 2nd

Fell off the fingery bits at the bottom a few times before getting up it.

Howard J 25/Jun/13 AltLd rpt

I led the first pitch, with the easier start.

Hidden 15/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
Matt_L_Robinson 15/Jun/13 AltLd
FionaNicholson 15/Jun/13 Lead
GStone 09/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

James led P1 Me P2 Tricky start nice climb

Mrobinson005 06/Jun/13 2nd O/S
mattgrange 02/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Led P1, sort of LH start traversing onto the flake, fun upper section

Big Lee 01/Jun/13 AltLd RP

Failed at the 5a start. Reached the obvious flake but the small footholds felt desparately polished. Opted for the 4b start, which made the route fairly steady for ther grade.

annak 01/Jun/13 AltLd dog
Rob Davies 01/Jun/13 Lead dnf

Why does a 5a start at the Roaches cause me more problems than 5c at Pex Hill?

Hidden ??/2013 -
Andrew G 29/Oct/12 Lead O/S
with James Norton
jamesnorton 29/Oct/12 2nd O/S

clean O/S first pitch. Did not finish second pitch, had to lower off as it was so wet and slippery

with Andy
joeflan 27/Oct/12 Lead O/S
John Brayshaw 21/Oct/12 Lead rpt
stev1e.wilso 21/Oct/12 2nd
Phil Mercer 21/Oct/12 2nd
Chriswallis2 20/Oct/12 Lead O/S
with Anna
John Holden 13/Oct/12 Lead β

Chimney start.

with Mike Tinnion
asmith37 22/Sep/12 AltLd rpt
Darrell Read 02/Sep/12 Lead
Hidden 01/Sep/12 2nd O/S
sjbrook 01/Sep/12 2nd O/S
with PMC
Pryan ?/Sep/12 Lead
with Hazel
Robin Brooke ?/Sep/12 Lead

a windy autumnal sunday, no midges a plus though! led a one pitch on double ropes. all about the first move which took a couple of go's and if I'm honest a little pull on the first piece of gear (a nut), then nice varied style to the top. enjoyed this one, even found a good sheltered anchor / belay spot.

Peter Metcalfe 18/Aug/12 Lead
Liam Ingram 10/Aug/12 AltLd O/S


maryleese 10/Aug/12 AltLd
Paul Hy 09/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

5a start is too hard atm so went up chimney then traversed first pitch.

with Mike R
Mrobinson005 07/Aug/12 Lead O/S

LEad pitch 2

torsok 05/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Dez
vinspin 28/Jul/12 2nd O/S
with ritchie
ritchierich 28/Jul/12 Lead O/S

More VS gear wise on lower section.

with Vinny
Hidden 28/Jul/12 2nd O/S
runestone 27/Jul/12 2nd rpt
with Steve
TJ Mather 25/Jul/12 2nd RP

Seconded Matt Moore- Climbed in one pitch. Good idea to take a bouldering pad for the start.

sambosanquet101 23/Jul/12 Lead

strung both pitches into one

Hidden 23/Jul/12 2nd
manosand 22/Jul/12 2nd O/S
SPD224 21/Jul/12 2nd
with Vivian Sherwood
Hidden 21/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Jul/12 2nd
stevetheleg 13/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

Lovely. Could do with a bit more traffic though.

with Nathan Magnall, Jay Conlon
namagnall 13/Jun/12 AltLd
Jay C 13/Jun/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 12/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Strachan 12/Jun/12 2nd RP

Nasty start

Gary A S 10/Jun/12 Lead dnf
with Clio
ross brinson 04/Jun/12 Lead
with Hannah Watson
hannah watson 04/Jun/12 2nd
Hidden 04/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
gd303uk 01/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
gary.barr 01/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Great start

Charley Carpenter ?/Jun/12 Lead O/S
jjclarke70 23/May/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/May/12 Lead rpt
liverpooldave 20/May/12 Lead O/S

HS 4b (skipped the tricky start) with Lincon Kev

KevInLincoln 20/May/12 2nd
with liverpooldave
cathymiller 06/May/12 AltLd

Led first pitch via easier chimney start (HS 4b)

RichyBOYY 02/May/12 AltLd

I lead the second pitch

David Kay 02/May/12 AltLd rpt
Hidden 28/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Mar/12 AltLd
treg 25/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

I did P1 with the 5a start. got a nut in the top of the starting flake, but it got a little run out for my liking after that. Very pleasant moves throughout though.

with Will
franhammond92 24/Mar/12 Lead
JakeWShaw 24/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

Lead first pitch.

with Nick
Nick1812P 24/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
simeclimb68 19/Feb/12 Solo O/S
cameron_hall 22/Jan/12 AltLd O/S

Would have been much more pleasant if there had been less wind!

hlegge 22/Jan/12 AltLd O/S

Went to retrieve lost gear, success! Very windy, made the easy top pitch feel quite exposed.

zach.stone 21/Jan/12 Lead O/S
Sophie Nunn 07/Jan/12 AltLd O/S
with Floris
Will Caesar ??/2012 AltLd O/S
PAJames ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
rob 528 ??/2012 -
rob 528 ??/2012 -
DanChad ??/2012 2nd O/S
with Paul Deane, Chris Murray
Le Chevalier Mal Fet ??/2012 2nd
Hidden 20/Nov/11 2nd O/S
jcooper8 05/Nov/11 Lead O/S
jandyd05 28/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Did the easier chimney start at 4b and ran it in 1 pitch withou too much bother. Later worked the harder start and I think I cracked it but couldn't climb properly due to darkness and a nervous partner !

Hidden 28/Oct/11 2nd
Rob84 22/Oct/11 2nd O/S
with Chris James
crispyboy 22/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with denzel
thrutch 16/Oct/11 AltLd O/S
with Sven
jdgaventa 14/Oct/11 AltLd
with katy
chedder 02/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with luke watts
Chris Harding 15/Sep/11 Lead O/S

Did the harder start well worth doing really good climb

with Wendy
Hidden 08/Sep/11 Lead
Boran 24/Aug/11 2nd
with Hannah
Hidden 21/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
grubes 21/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Vicky
vix 21/Aug/11 2nd O/S
with luke
Hidden 21/Aug/11 AltLd
nrhardy 20/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

P1 - Tim, P2 - me

with Tim
craig naylor 09/Aug/11 2nd O/S
with dan armstrong
antdav 06/Aug/11 2nd O/S
with Wayne
hotfeet 06/Aug/11 Lead
with Mac
waynem1985 06/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Aug/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 30/Jul/11 Lead O/S
asmith37 30/Jul/11 2nd rpt
Dan Lane 23/Jul/11 Lead O/S

In one pitch, no need to split it, well extended gear makes it more than manageable to do in one pitch. Oh and a good route too!

with Sarah Clough, Laurie Carefoot
asmith37 23/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 23/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Mike Turner 16/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Easy start via Jeffcoat chimney

with Bob Butcher
Hidden 13/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Brian Rodgers 13/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Adam
Blurgy319 03/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Was quite high up before I could get some gear in, would give it VS for that reason though a bouldering mat would've probably helped ha

with Peter Williams
Hidden 03/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
hapymike 03/Jul/11 AltLd
HIGHTOWER 02/Jul/11 Lead O/S
williamsd79 02/Jul/11 2nd O/S
CurlyStevo ?/Jul/11 Lead

nice route tricky start, hard to protect this part if you are an HS leader I should imagine! Easy for the grade after this

with Kevin
Anta Misina ?/Jul/11 2nd
Hidden 30/Jun/11 2nd O/S
bobpilgrem 28/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Nice bouldery start- rest of route much more pleasant than it looks from below.

with Bob/Nic
Fred_Richard 26/Jun/11 Lead

Did it all in one p. I have done many easier and safer VS's than this route in the past. A bit slimmy too

with Kat
Hidden 26/Jun/11 Lead O/S
kat-lyle 26/Jun/11 2nd
with fred
Barry D 14/Jun/11 AltLd
with Andy H
Andy Hardy 14/Jun/11 AltLd

2nd Pitch

Frostie 09/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Jun/11 Lead
stephen ashworth 09/Jun/11 2nd
with john frost, floss_81
chisanga 04/Jun/11 AltLd RP

Lead first pitch. First few moves were hard then it eases into a simple climb. Nice one.

with Matt Thomas
Hidden 03/Jun/11 Lead
Rich Malcolm 03/Jun/11 AltLd rpt
with Matt Brennan
trish1968 02/Jun/11 2nd

Lovely climb did the chimney start after trying the direct start.

rocktigger 01/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Clare
DubyaJamesDubya ?/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Andrew Bevan
steveth 25/May/11 AltLd

Led P1. A route with a little bit of everything. Truly epic stuff at the grade! BMC gives it 4c, 4a. I'd say 5a, 3c.

chris_r 25/May/11 AltLd O/S

Seconded first (crux) pitch.

lucasp 21/May/11 Lead

Done in a single pitch. Started up the chimney.

with keith lmc
Tom Stoddart 14/May/11 2nd
with Iain Leverett, Dave Battley
scotty h 10/May/11 2nd RP

The start was tricky

with Lou Titchfield, Alex Maggs
maggsy 10/May/11 Lead O/S
with Lou, Scott Humphries
Hidden 08/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/May/11 2nd O/S
Sidekick 04/May/11 Solo
The Ivanator 02/May/11 Lead O/S

Great starting moves, thankfully the landing is good if you were to come off. It feels quite high up before it is comfortable to pause and place gear (after the nut placed from the ground - by then redundant) perhaps worth VS with the direct start, I led in a one-er.

with Stewart
Stewart Armstrong 02/May/11 -
with Ivan Bicknell
Hidden 01/May/11 2nd
Hidden 01/May/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 01/May/11 AltLd
Monoaffe ?/May/11 Lead O/S
Dave Mahon ?/May/11 Lead O/S

very pleasant.

with Alice
Andrew23 29/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Done via the direct start

with John Tomlinson
mcglenr25 26/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Lead pitch one clean.

mksmith35 25/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Tom Kirby
Col Kingshott 25/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
iwebster59017 24/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Kirsty810202 24/Apr/11 2nd O/S
tgeh 22/Apr/11 2nd O/S
with dan geh
Dan Geh 22/Apr/11 Lead O/S
MaccMark 21/Apr/11 AltLd

Lead first pitch

ColinD 19/Apr/11 2nd

Enjoyable, if a little slippery in first 10'

Hidden 19/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
NB Pixel 19/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Nice lead by JT on first pitch; start was awesome, but had to do it quite a fingery complex way as short. I led second pitch...

with JT
Hidden 16/Apr/11 Lead
monika paprzycka 16/Apr/11 2nd
Sam Simpson 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S
alias dave 09/Apr/11 2nd O/S
with Sam.EB
Hidden ?/Apr/11 2nd
Rob84 20/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Jack Turner
Hidden 20/Mar/11 2nd O/S
crispyboy 20/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Lashlin
Ollie B 19/Mar/11 AltLd O/S
with S.Bennett
Hidden 13/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Tom_Jermy 13/Mar/11 AltLd O/S

Lead the first pitch, start was very awkward for the shorter individual and it was green and wet! All good fun though.

johnpuddephatt 13/Mar/11 Lead O/S

A tough start but great. Stringing the pitches together makes for a varied adventure.

David Kay 13/Mar/11 AltLd O/S

Tom took the first pitch, I took second.

JamieSparkes 12/Mar/11 2nd O/S
Lunar25 08/Mar/11 Solo O/S
Hidden 07/Mar/11 2nd
flashpanther ?/Mar/11 Lead
Jono Graham ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
John Mckeating ??/2011 -
augustus trout 21/Nov/10 2nd


with Colin Maddison
Rachel Slater 07/Nov/10 AltLd O/S

lead 2nd pitch

Olli-C 07/Nov/10 AltLd O/S

1st pitch

Hidden 17/Oct/10 AltLd dog
charley 17/Oct/10 AltLd O/S
with Steve Wallace
valentinesbabe 17/Oct/10 2nd dnf

Just couldn't get off the ground.

Steven Andrews 16/Oct/10 AltLd O/S

pretty tough start for an HS! but great clmbing

with Richard Lines
BlueJohn 13/Oct/10 Lead
with Helen
Ianwesterby 12/Oct/10 Lead
with Leo
Leo Woodhead 12/Oct/10 -
with Ian W
Rick Ashton 10/Oct/10 2nd O/S
with andy gibb
lostinmidlands 09/Oct/10 Lead dog

One fall on the hard start. Pre-placed a nut for the second (and successful) attempt. Led it as one pitch. Most ridiculously, I've given myself a generous nose bleed at the belay while testing how strong (i.e., weak!) a cam placement in a mossy flaring crack was.

with troelsS
paulnc 09/Oct/10 AltLd O/S
with Rob Doman
ElvisLeg 26/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Lee Harris
jshields 12/Sep/10 AltLd

Second time. lovely route.

with Gavin, Jonathan Harrison
Luuuuuke 29/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Jo
pord 08/Aug/10 2nd dog

Start quite tricky and took a few attempts but nice fun climb

with Justin
jaxxman 31/Jul/10 2nd O/S
with John (koflack)
Howard J 27/Jul/10 AltLd rpt

I led the first pitch (with the easy start)

with Vanessa Jackson, Mark Ford
Hidden 18/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
MartinWilliams87 10/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Jul/10 Lead rpt
Shorty83 02/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
with Giles
Hidden 01/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Gigga ?/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Jun/10 2nd
Ky 26/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Crucko
ianslade 22/Jun/10 Lead β
with Dave
john.gaffney 19/Jun/10 Lead RP

Start hard. Took couple of goes to figure it out. Rest easy good climbing.

with dan m
Hidden 19/Jun/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 17/Jun/10 Lead rpt
Monkey_Alan 12/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

Led P1. Tricky start leading to nice climbing.

with Richard Perrin
mortifiedPenguin 06/Jun/10 2nd dog
with Jason Rogers
wirralclimber1984 05/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with james
gingerwolf 03/Jun/10 Lead O/S
pldarch 02/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Isabel
daveyji ?/Jun/10 Lead
with Linda Williamson
Hidden 31/May/10 2nd O/S
lucasp 22/May/10 AltLd O/S

I led pitch 2. P1 had a difficult start.

with ditch
Hidden 22/May/10 Lead dnf
Hidden 22/May/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22/May/10 AltLd
hellboundblr 21/May/10 AltLd

Me P1 5a.

with Danny Smudge
Hidden 21/May/10 AltLd O/S
Happy Wanderer 15/May/10 AltLd O/S

Led first 5a pitch.

with Ken T
DaNo123 14/May/10 Lead
with Hanzler
PanzerHanzler 14/May/10 2nd O/S
bigbobbyking 09/May/10 2nd
with Chris Allan
chrisallan 09/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/May/10 2nd O/S
Andrew Bangs 03/May/10 AltLd O/S

With Phil. He led the harder first pitch with the hard start. I had to resort to the easier chimney start having failed to do the hard moves. I led the second pitch - not much gear unless you have the right cams, but it's full of juggy holds. Climbing in a hailstorm made for extra interest.

98%monkey 03/May/10 Lead O/S

Did the 5a start

with Andrew
tlmarjot ?/May/10 Lead O/S
with Anna Wilding
RamblingRyan 25/Apr/10 2nd
with Col
Oliver Houston 24/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
manwithacam 19/Apr/10 2nd

A nice amble, after the initial move, a whole lot easier than our earlier HS, Right Route Right.

with Joris
Joris.Roulleau 18/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Apr/10 2nd
Adam Potter 17/Apr/10 2nd
Neil Metcalfe101 16/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
with Phil 'the Duke'
Hexman 11/Apr/10 AltLd O/S

Led P1

with Andy Holder
andrea83 10/Apr/10 AltLd

Dan lead first pitch, I lead second. Tricky move initially that is unprotected, would have only lead it if had bouldering mat there. Easy route after

with Dan
Hidden 03/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Mar/10 Lead O/S
partz 14/Mar/10 Lead O/S

Really fun multipitch. Thread is bomber at belay position, first move was fun.

with Dan Smart
Daymo 07/Mar/10 Lead O/S
shark 11/Feb/10 Solo
Hidden ??/2010 -
GF ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 Lead
ozbaker ??/2010 2nd rpt
Ken Taylor ??/2010 -
peter myers ??/2010 Lead
with Matt Eyre
guido ??/2010 AltLd
cymjt ??/2010 -
Double Knee Bar 31/Oct/09 2nd O/S

Did chimney start, very green.

with Iain
ccraigg22 29/Oct/09 AltLd rpt
Hidden 29/Oct/09 2nd O/S
Jack Loftus 29/Oct/09 AltLd O/S
with Craig
phja 20/Sep/09 2nd O/S
with darren
shed_hed 20/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Tak 13/Sep/09 2nd
si_green99 12/Sep/09 2nd O/S

kept on route for the proper start which def makes this HS, qwould prob only be S without.

with Mike Redding, Neil Peck
Tadams 05/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Finnegan Pope-Carter
cem 05/Sep/09 AltLd O/S

Led p1

with Ben Gurney
Hidden 29/Aug/09 2nd O/S
Mike W 22/Aug/09 Solo
timbanton 14/Aug/09 Lead
Hidden 13/Aug/09 Lead RP
adamscottthomas 08/Aug/09 Lead rpt
ellentaylor 08/Aug/09 2nd rpt
Hidden 06/Aug/09 Lead O/S
odox 18/Jul/09 Lead O/S

Nice route. Did it all in one pitch - just didn't put any gear in until the second pitch :D

garywong 11/Jul/09 2nd O/S
smolders 11/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Gary W
Hidden 24/Jun/09 Lead O/S
carl_123 20/Jun/09 AltLd O/S

led the easy 2nd pitch

with matt and phill
Hidden 04/Jun/09 2nd
Hidden 02/Jun/09 AltLd
dannymoo99 02/Jun/09 Lead
with Tom Shooter
Hidden ?/Jun/09 Lead O/S
georgebe 31/May/09 Lead
Twisty 30/May/09 Lead rpt
with Rayan Sammut
Hidden 30/May/09 2nd
@ndy 11/May/09 Lead
with Jonah
stevemcg 10/May/09 AltLd
with Liz
fizzychewitt 10/May/09 AltLd
with Steve
Hidden ?/May/09 2nd
Hidden 26/Apr/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 22/Apr/09 2nd
Richard Gilbert 11/Apr/09 AltLd O/S

I led first pitch, with the proper start - pleased with myself!

with Huw Charrington
nikmorgan ?/Apr/09 AltLd

Lead pitch 2

ChuckstarUK 28/Mar/09 AltLd O/S

Jeffcoat's Chimney variation to start (HS 4b). Nicola led the first pitch. I led the second.

with Nicola
Danhan ??/2009 -
Col Kingshott ??/2009 Lead
keith leonard ??/2009 -
Hidden ??/2009 Lead
Hidden ??/2009 Lead
Blisco 01/Nov/08 AltLd O/S

Led p1, including the 5a start.

with Chris Townsend
troym 12/Oct/08 AltLd O/S
DavidR 11/Oct/08 2nd O/S

Hol's lead.

with Holly Adamthwaite and Clive Greenwood
Hidden 11/Oct/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 10/Oct/08 Lead O/S
roscoe6 05/Oct/08 Lead
HamishD 27/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with vince vahinsberg
vvanhinsbergh 27/Sep/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 21/Sep/08 Lead O/S
gazfellows 20/Sep/08 2nd
with shaun d
gaz.marshall 15/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Jones
Hidden 14/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Laurence Everitt 13/Sep/08 Lead O/S

green and rubbish

Hidden 30/Aug/08 AltLd O/S
Dave Lacey 30/Aug/08 AltLd O/S
DrIan 20/Aug/08 2nd
with Scott & Rachel
Bristoldave 16/Aug/08 Lead O/S

As 1 pitch

CarolineH 16/Aug/08 2nd O/S
with Dave
siah 02/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with hissey and gavin
dashitboarder 29/Jul/08 AltLd

Lead second easy half

with Dad
markblair 29/Jul/08 AltLd O/S

Made a general pigs ear of the first move and fortunately there was no one around to see some really poor technique! After that everything gets much easier. A very nice route. Alsion lead and placed a no 2 freind which she knew was irretrievable as soon as it was in. Unfortunately for us it was nearly dark by the time we'd both had a good go at trying to get it out!!

with Alison Dixon
Andy Miller ?/Jun/08 -
cooper leek ?/Mar/08 2nd O/S
with donk
TiffTiff 24/Feb/08 Lead O/S
staceyjg 17/Feb/08 AltLd O/S

I Lead the 2nd pitch, I chose the less difficult start up the chimney but had to move across pretty quickly to retrieve pro as Chris had done the direct start.

minaturechris 17/Feb/08 AltLd
with Stacey
dannyboy83 ?/Feb/08 Solo O/S
Will Hunt 12/Jan/08 AltLd O/S

Lead first pitch

Hidden 12/Jan/08 AltLd
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 -
Goose4 ??/2008 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2008 -
Eddie Hung 04/Nov/07 Lead RP

Really dodgy start, slipped off a few times at the beginning before doing the whole thing clean. Did it as one pitch.

with Dave Hodgkinson, James Smith
dzlhodgson 04/Nov/07 2nd O/S
with Eddie Hung
jameswbrae 03/Nov/07 2nd O/S

Nice climb. Tricky start but really cool.

with Emma Ross (leading) & Patrick Von Glenn
Hidden 03/Nov/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Oct/07 AltLd
Hidden 31/Oct/07 AltLd
Col Kingshott 06/Oct/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Sep/07 Lead O/S
OffshoreAndy 22/Sep/07 2nd
with NCC Kelvin
alanw 15/Sep/07 2nd
with Tom R
dja 11/Sep/07 AltLd O/S
matt ling 11/Sep/07 AltLd O/S
with dja
adamscottthomas 10/Sep/07 AltLd O/S

I led first pitch

ellentaylor 10/Sep/07 AltLd O/S

Led 2nd Pitch

jcurley 07/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with Horace
Graeme Hammond 01/Sep/07 Lead O/S
popov86 ?/Sep/07 Lead
hang_about 27/Aug/07 AltLd

Al #1 me #2 started via chimney

with big al
Hidden 27/Aug/07 Lead O/S
mol ?/Aug/07 AltLd
with Nick Lambert
Zoomer 28/Jul/07 Lead
twodada 28/Jul/07 Lead

stiff start and run out for HS

with Bill and Steve Bes
Jules 210681 28/Jul/07 2nd
tatz45 14/Jul/07 Lead O/S
with Hedvika Toncrova
Hidden 10/Jul/07 2nd
mic_b 07/Jul/07 AltLd O/S
with Jose
Jon_Warner 08/Jun/07 AltLd O/S

A pretty darn good route. The direct start is hard but ok as long as you commit. Def 5a. The end of pitch 1 has an airy feel, the only thing that slightly let it down was a couple of dubious pieces of rock.

with Jonny
Hidden 08/Jun/07 Lead
Ing 08/Jun/07 AltLd
with Jim
Stig 29/May/07 2nd O/S
with Charlie Reade-Jahn
Hidden 26/May/07 Lead
pelvoux 26/May/07 Lead O/S
with Dominique B, Rosalind
thomasholyoak 20/May/07 Lead O/S


LakesWinter 05/May/07 AltLd
with Chris Gibbs
Marvino 05/May/07 Lead

Led both pitches. Nothing too hard but great fun all the way.

with Jamie
Hidden 30/Apr/07 2nd
Caralynh 29/Apr/07 2nd O/S

Wanted to lead this but didn't like the look of the start. Now I've done it clean, it's on the lead wishlist!

bob3141 28/Apr/07 2nd
with Oliver Mentz
davek 15/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Larson
Hidden 06/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Steve Waters, Mynydd 01/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Martin Kocsis
Hidden ?/Apr/07 Lead O/S
chiverstom 03/Feb/07 Lead O/S
with Dave Turner
Hidden 03/Feb/07 Solo
timmy-ts ??/2007 -
Diggler ??/2007 Lead
Darragh ??/2007 -
Ivan Lissin ?/Dec/06 Lead O/S

My partner was supposed to be leading but was struggling with the start so I decided to have a go. This was my first proper lead and a great one at that. Scary moment came after the direct start as I struggled to find a place for my first piece of gear 5m above the ground.

Simon Caldwell 04/Nov/06 2nd O/S

Dave led pitch 1, Carmen pitch 2.

with Carmen and Dave E
A Crook 04/Nov/06 Lead O/S
Howard J 24/Sep/06 Lead rpt

Did the easy start

Hidden 23/Sep/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Sep/06 Lead
Hidden 16/Sep/06 Solo O/S
rob wmc 09/Sep/06 Lead O/S

Used the chimney to start (4b).

with Pete
Swirly 05/Sep/06 2nd O/S

5a direct start, more like 4c

with Dom Clarke
Katie Weston 08/Aug/06 2nd O/S
Lex_2004 08/Aug/06 Lead O/S

Absolutely hated this, a broken hand hold really put me off, along with fierce rock overs on green roundedness. The hard start was good though.

kevinknights 05/Aug/06 2nd O/S

Good route

Hidden 21/Jul/06 2nd O/S
Hidden 02/Jul/06 Lead O/S
Paul Burgess 29/Jun/06 Lead
with Dan Henderson
featuresforfeet 24/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
with Mark Lim
a_d_tru 11/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
with Matt
Hidden 08/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
simonw1 04/Jun/06 Lead O/S

Did the hard start

with Allan Watson
dan gibson 04/Jun/06 Solo rpt
naughtybadboy 16/May/06 AltLd
with simon day
Hidden 11/May/06 Lead
Hidden 11/May/06 2nd O/S
markbenton ?/May/06 -
Hidden 23/Apr/06 AltLd
Pem 19/Feb/06 Lead O/S

first 2 pitch climb,great belay ledge.

with mark griff
Hidden 21/Jan/06 2nd O/S
dan gibson ??/2006 -
John Lisle ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
AngelaC 27/Aug/05 AltLd
Hidden 06/Aug/05 Lead
kendogcatchy ?/Aug/05 Lead
with Dave Clarke
LoopyLou ?/Aug/05 Lead O/S
with Helen Lear
crossdressingrodney 11/Jul/05 Lead O/S
victim of mathematics 14/Jun/05 Lead O/S
Cornish Merlin 14/Jun/05 2nd
Hidden 04/Jun/05 Lead
OffshoreAndy 28/May/05 Lead O/S
with Steve Mount
Hidden 29/Apr/05 Lead
Hidden ??/2005 -
Hidden ??/2005 Lead
Hidden 31/Dec/04 Lead O/S
riddle ?/Dec/04 Lead
with Tom Elliot
steve prior ?/Oct/04 Lead
with Andy C
Lev 22/Aug/04 Lead O/S
Chesh 04/Jul/04 Lead
with Julie
Howard J 11/May/04 Lead O/S
with Helen Severn
donkster ?/May/04 Lead O/S
with trigg
Hidden 12/Apr/04 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Mar/04 Lead
Hidden ??/2004 AltLd O/S
John HW 24/Aug/03 Lead
with Cath
Andy Clarke 07/Aug/03 Lead O/S
with MWagner, ChrisA
jimshrimp 20/Jul/03 AltLd O/S
Alaric 12/Jul/03 AltLd O/S

Led p1

with Isabel B
Retroman3 30/Jun/03 Lead O/S
with Yan
Hidden 20/Jun/03 AltLd
ASchwirtz 18/May/03 Lead O/S
Neil Curtis 10/May/03 2nd
with Pete Barnes
Hidden ?/Mar/03 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2003 -
Hidden ??/2003 Lead O/S
Dave Bond ??/2003 Lead O/S
petekeron ??/2003 Lead O/S


Dave Mason ?/Nov/02 Lead O/S
with Trev Tatler
Hidden 01/Sep/02 Lead
Hidden ?/Jun/02 Lead O/S
FrankW 20/Apr/02 AltLd O/S
with Joe
DerwentDiluted 29/Mar/02 AltLd
with J. Ellson
Milne ?/Mar/02 Lead O/S

approx date

Hidden ??/2002 2nd
Gus ??/2002 Lead
with luisa giles
MontyH 28/Jul/01 Lead O/S
with Andy Lawrance
John Brayshaw 09/Jun/01 AltLd O/S
with Chris
Darragh ?/May/01 -
with Rob
Stone Muppet ??/2001 -
Hidden 22/Jul/00 Lead
Celia Watson 22/Jul/00 2nd
Russell Flynn 16/Jul/00 Lead O/S
tlr ??/2000 Solo
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
Hidden ??/2000 Lead O/S
marcoleptic ??/2000 2nd dnf

Banjo fell, gear ripped, landed on my head & hyper extended cruciate ligament, 6 weeks in plaster. Bummer.

with Banjo
Les Ross 10/Apr/99 Lead
Hidden 27/Mar/99 AltLd
rlrs ??/1999 Lead
Hidden 27/Sep/98 Lead
stokienomad 23/Jul/98 Lead
Hidden 12/Oct/97 Solo
Hidden 03/Jul/97 Lead
Hidden 10/May/97 2nd
Hidden ??/1997 Lead O/S
brady ??/1997 Lead
with Mark Duffield
Hidden ??/1997 Lead
smudge 16/Jun/96 AltLd O/S
with Rich
Le Chevalier Mal Fet ?/Jun/96 Lead
nacnud 21/Apr/96 2nd
Hidden 02/Apr/96 2nd
CrashMat Rob ??/1996 Lead O/S
Ian Archer 23/Sep/95 2nd O/S
with Rob Gilkes
Hidden 11/Aug/95 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Aug/95 AltLd
Yourlead 11/Jun/95 2nd
with Graham Penny
icescrew ?/May/95 2nd
with Rich Hogan
goi.ashmore 12/Mar/95 Solo O/S
adam carless ??/1995 2nd O/S
Marti999 ??/1995 Lead
nai ??/1995 Solo
alan moore ??/1995 -
malc 12/Sep/93 Lead
Hidden 21/Jul/93 Lead
andrew300169 07/Mar/93 Solo
with Jason
SimonN ??/1993 -
KillingtonT 02/Jun/92 AltLd
with Mark Drinkwater
RichardMc 10/May/92 Lead
Roget 13/Apr/90 Solo O/S
andrew300169 ??/1990 -
Steve Lenartowicz ??/1990 -
OMSKB ?/Sep/89 Lead
OMSKB ??/1989 Lead
Iain Thow 28/Jun/88 Lead

In demi dark, horrendous midges

with Jacqui Butcher
Hidden 08/Jun/88 Solo
angry pirate ??/1988 -
Hidden 07/Jun/86 Lead
Richard Weller 22/Sep/85 Lead
with Bernadette Butler
Mark Kemball 13/Mar/84 Solo
charlesmfrench 28/Feb/82 Lead O/S
Nigel Coe 18/Jul/81 AltLd
with Steve Portnoi
Ghastly Rubberfeet ??/1980 Solo
Hidden ?/Sep/79 Lead O/S
babymoac 25/Jun/77 -
Hidden 08/May/76 2nd
rogerskews ??/1976 Lead
Chris Terrey ??/1976 Lead
with Roger Wilson
Nigel Bond 30/Jun/74 AltLd
with Pete Dainty, Pete Bott
Rog Wilko ?/May/71 Lead
with Debbie Wilkinson
mikej 30/Apr/69 Solo
with Wil Hurford
oldmanofmow ??/1962 Lead

Pete Williams and Pat Higson

chris sm ??/0000 AltLd O/S
with Francis Taylor
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
philmitch, hthom, Lukejoshmueller, mrdigitaljedi, SuperLee1985, Hidden, ruthonbike, alp79, Hidden, Hidden, steve.frankel, dr_botnik, Spanner, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, rich.mike, hapymike, jumpingjimminy, Hewin, Skullfire, Ander, mbtulett, Rob Messenger
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 109
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 111
Votes cast 127
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set