A route with an arduous (and avoidable) start. Using the chimney start lowers the route to a more amenable HS 4b. 1) 5a, 18m. Climb the fingery polished scoop by a long reach, or avoid it by the chimney on the left. Weave up towards the overhangs, pulling over a bulge with difficulty to enter a groove. Trend right below the huge roofs to the 'pipe' stance. 2) 3c, 10m. The pleasant jamming cracks on the right are awkward to enter and soon lead to the cliff top. © Rockfax
FA. Stanley Jeffcoat 1913
|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
|Calum Wadsworth||04/Oct||Lead O/S||
Did the 5a start this time - v nice
|Rebecca North||03/Oct||2nd O/S||
5a start. Really interesting climb.
Would be a hard start for a HS leader. Not much gear and moves, the rest is a doddle!
|pawel suhy||13/Sep||2nd RP||
|Neal Jobling||13/Sep||AltLd rpt||
As one pitch. Lovely. Made the first moves harder than they needed to be. Probably 5a if you do it right! The HS 5a grade actually works.
|Dafydd Llywelyn||07/Sep||Solo O/S|
|Antonio Ferra||?/Sep||Lead O/S|
|Matt Smith||22/Aug||Lead O/S||
As one pitch.
Ed Shaw, Jo Davison
|Felix la shat||?/Aug||AltLd O/S|
|Dan Vaj||11/Jul||2nd rpt|
john evans, patrick h
|Cheese Monkey||05/Jul||Lead O/S||
|Andrew Abraham||06/Jun||Lead rpt||
Chris Wallis, Paul Sherman
|Jamie Everitt||26/May||Lead O/S||
Very nice, lead it in one pitch on 5a start although it feels more like 4c.
Started in the chimney to avoid the hard first move as suggested in the guide and then moved out onto the buttress
Couple of attempts at start requured!
|alias dave||18/Apr||Lead O/S|
|Daniel Allen||18/Apr||2nd O/S|
|Anthony Dixon||15/Apr||Lead O/S||
First pitch. Very nice move at the beginning but doesn't feel 5a.
5a Start. An absolutely cracking route, highly recommended. The position, variety and nice exposure on final easy pitch are not to be missed. I do not know why this is not as popular as the other routes (black and tans etc). Gear is good once reached, run out slightly for the tech grade. In fairness new partner could not pull initial move sequence.
Found this fun, lead both pitches. Took the easy chimney start as hadn't climbed for months and it was slimey. Traversing out on very green and slimy ledge was spicy. Top bit ended a bit too soon.
Hilarious 4 on the ledge rope disaster :)
Czech Tom, Simon, Sarah
|Martin Bagshaw||28/Sep/14||AltLd O/S||
Lead 2nd pitch. Neil's first 5a lead.
Led 2nd pitch
Led it all in one pitch, really nice route
5a start, good route.
Adam led as one pitch. Both did the 5a start
|David Stevens||03/Sep/14||Lead O/S||
|Jim Slater||31/Aug/14||Lead rpt|
A fun start and a nice varied route. No idea why this is two pitches. Bit squishy after rain.
|Leo Choi||09/Aug/14||AltLd O/S||
lead second pitch
Led P1, with a hand from the gulley on the LHS for the start.
|Matt Cooke||26/Jul/14||2nd β||
|Jack Whiteley||16/Jul/14||AltLd O/S||
Jo Sunderland, Martin Smith
Lead second pitch. Such an amazing route!
5a start with a mat - unprotected for a good way! What a great route. Perfect for Charlie and I. Face climbing then jamming cracks.
|alaster tonge||14/Jun/14||Lead O/S||
with the 5a start, as one pitch
John B lead
As one pitch. The bottom move was actually a lot easier than I anticipated, nice route.
Led p1. I may have missed some vital hold, but ithe move I did was more like 5b. Short lived difficulty and stunning climb after. The traverse was one of the best positions I've been in on grit. Interesting metal chock at belay- imagine what the first ascensionists belays were like. Brendan led p2, reminiscent of black & tans.
|Dave Turnbull, BMC||05/May/14||Lead||
Roland Strube, Harry Turnbull
Lead second pitch
|tom bre||27/Apr/14||2nd O/S||
|Dan Vaj||12/Apr/14||Lead O/S|
Avoided the difficult start but lead as a single pitch.
Led P1. The 5a start was a bit puzzling but the difficulties are shortlived. Quite nervy padding up the slabs above to good gear..
Had to rinse second pitch in order to put in gear for Rob who was having a mare on Black and Tan!
Hass led first - low on protection at points...
|Dave Latimer||07/Nov/13||AltLd O/S|
Started up the chimney and traversed over (no gear for 5m if you go this way, brrr)
Ranveig Berg, Seth Redmond
|Mark Collins||28/Sep/13||Lead O/S||
|Derek Robinson||28/Sep/13||2nd dog|
Start is much harder for the short.
|Jim Slater||21/Sep/13||2nd O/S||
Cool moves at the beginning.
Ray led the second pitch. Ruined by spindrift of flying ants tumbling down on our heads!
Ray led the second pitch. Ruined by spindrift of flying ants tumbling down on our heads!
|Jules Lane||11/Aug/13||Lead RP||
Got the first 5a move to the first good hold easily and placed a wire, but then due to poor footwork, failed to complete the final hard move, so came down and did it second time. Completed the route in 1 pitch - all good fun.
Mynydd Dave K
Me pitch 1. P2 Alan. Bit of a bold start.....
|Neil Henson||20/Jul/13||AltLd O/S||
Led 2nd pitch
I was so close to getting up the first bit, but twice just could not find enough friction to make my foot stick, or more left arm umph needed (not there at the end of a long day)still once over the first part the rest was a good challenge - great stuff
Great route, sweated it out in scorching sunshine. Did it in one pitch to save the hassle of a belay.
Fell off the fingery bits at the bottom a few times before getting up it.
|Howard J||25/Jun/13||AltLd rpt||
I led the first pitch, with the easier start.
James led P1 Me P2 Tricky start nice climb
Led P1, sort of LH start traversing onto the flake, fun upper section
|Big Lee||01/Jun/13||AltLd RP||
Failed at the 5a start. Reached the obvious flake but the small footholds felt desparately polished. Opted for the 4b start, which made the route fairly steady for ther grade.
|Andrew G||29/Oct/12||Lead O/S||
clean O/S first pitch. Did not finish second pitch, had to lower off as it was so wet and slippery
|John Brayshaw||21/Oct/12||Lead rpt|
|John Holden||13/Oct/12||Lead β||
a windy autumnal sunday, no midges a plus though! led a one pitch on double ropes. all about the first move which took a couple of go's and if I'm honest a little pull on the first piece of gear (a nut), then nice varied style to the top. enjoyed this one, even found a good sheltered anchor / belay spot.
|Liam Ingram||10/Aug/12||AltLd O/S||
|Paul Hy||09/Aug/12||AltLd O/S||
5a start is too hard atm so went up chimney then traversed first pitch.
LEad pitch 2
More VS gear wise on lower section.
|TJ Mather||25/Jul/12||2nd RP||
Seconded Matt Moore- Climbed in one pitch. Good idea to take a bouldering pad for the start.
strung both pitches into one
Lovely. Could do with a bit more traffic though.
Nathan Magnall, Jay Conlon
|Jay C||13/Jun/12||2nd O/S|
|Gary A S||10/Jun/12||Lead dnf|
|Charley Carpenter||?/Jun/12||Lead O/S|
HS 4b (skipped the tricky start) with Lincon Kev
Led first pitch via easier chimney start (HS 4b)
I lead the second pitch
|David Kay||02/May/12||AltLd rpt|
I did P1 with the 5a start. got a nut in the top of the starting flake, but it got a little run out for my liking after that. Very pleasant moves throughout though.
Lead first pitch.
Would have been much more pleasant if there had been less wind!
Went to retrieve lost gear, success! Very windy, made the easy top pitch feel quite exposed.
|Sophie Nunn||07/Jan/12||AltLd O/S||
|Will Caesar||??/2012||AltLd O/S|
Paul Deane, Chris Murray
|Le Chevalier Mal Fet||??/2012||2nd|
Did the easier chimney start at 4b and ran it in 1 pitch withou too much bother. Later worked the harder start and I think I cracked it but couldn't climb properly due to darkness and a nervous partner !
|Chris Harding||15/Sep/11||Lead O/S||
Did the harder start well worth doing really good climb
P1 - Tim, P2 - me
|craig naylor||09/Aug/11||2nd O/S||
|Dan Lane||23/Jul/11||Lead O/S||
In one pitch, no need to split it, well extended gear makes it more than manageable to do in one pitch. Oh and a good route too!
Sarah Clough, Laurie Carefoot
|Mike Turner||16/Jul/11||Lead O/S||
Easy start via Jeffcoat chimney
|Brian Rodgers||13/Jul/11||Lead O/S||
Was quite high up before I could get some gear in, would give it VS for that reason though a bouldering mat would've probably helped ha
nice route tricky start, hard to protect this part if you are an HS leader I should imagine! Easy for the grade after this
Nice bouldery start- rest of route much more pleasant than it looks from below.
Did it all in one p. I have done many easier and safer VS's than this route in the past. A bit slimmy too
john frost, floss_81
Lead first pitch. First few moves were hard then it eases into a simple climb. Nice one.
|Rich Malcolm||03/Jun/11||AltLd rpt||
Lovely climb did the chimney start after trying the direct start.
Led P1. A route with a little bit of everything. Truly epic stuff at the grade! BMC gives it 4c, 4a. I'd say 5a, 3c.
Seconded first (crux) pitch.
Done in a single pitch. Started up the chimney.
Iain Leverett, Dave Battley
|scotty h||10/May/11||2nd RP||
The start was tricky
Lou Titchfield, Alex Maggs
Lou, Scott Humphries
|The Ivanator||02/May/11||Lead O/S||
Great starting moves, thankfully the landing is good if you were to come off. It feels quite high up before it is comfortable to pause and place gear (after the nut placed from the ground - by then redundant) perhaps worth VS with the direct start, I led in a one-er.
|Dave Mahon||?/May/11||Lead O/S||
Done via the direct start
Lead pitch one clean.
|Col Kingshott||25/Apr/11||AltLd O/S|
|Dan Geh||22/Apr/11||Lead O/S|
Lead first pitch
Enjoyable, if a little slippery in first 10'
|NB Pixel||19/Apr/11||AltLd O/S||
Nice lead by JT on first pitch; start was awesome, but had to do it quite a fingery complex way as short. I led second pitch...
|Sam Simpson||09/Apr/11||Lead O/S|
|alias dave||09/Apr/11||2nd O/S|
|Ollie B||19/Mar/11||AltLd O/S||
Lead the first pitch, start was very awkward for the shorter individual and it was green and wet! All good fun though.
A tough start but great. Stringing the pitches together makes for a varied adventure.
|David Kay||13/Mar/11||AltLd O/S||
Tom took the first pitch, I took second.
|Rachel Slater||07/Nov/10||AltLd O/S||
lead 2nd pitch
Just couldn't get off the ground.
|Steven Andrews||16/Oct/10||AltLd O/S||
pretty tough start for an HS! but great clmbing
|Rick Ashton||10/Oct/10||2nd O/S||
One fall on the hard start. Pre-placed a nut for the second (and successful) attempt. Led it as one pitch. Most ridiculously, I've given myself a generous nose bleed at the belay while testing how strong (i.e., weak!) a cam placement in a mossy flaring crack was.
Second time. lovely route.
Gavin, Jonathan Harrison
Start quite tricky and took a few attempts but nice fun climb
|Howard J||27/Jul/10||AltLd rpt||
I led the first pitch (with the easy start)
Vanessa Jackson, Mark Ford
Start hard. Took couple of goes to figure it out. Rest easy good climbing.
Led P1. Tricky start leading to nice climbing.
I led pitch 2. P1 had a difficult start.
Me P1 5a.
|Happy Wanderer||15/May/10||AltLd O/S||
Led first 5a pitch.
|Andrew Bangs||03/May/10||AltLd O/S||
With Phil. He led the harder first pitch with the hard start. I had to resort to the easier chimney start having failed to do the hard moves. I led the second pitch - not much gear unless you have the right cams, but it's full of juggy holds. Climbing in a hailstorm made for extra interest.
Did the 5a start
|Oliver Houston||24/Apr/10||Lead O/S|
A nice amble, after the initial move, a whole lot easier than our earlier HS, Right Route Right.
|Neil Metcalfe101||16/Apr/10||AltLd O/S||
Phil 'the Duke'
Dan lead first pitch, I lead second. Tricky move initially that is unprotected, would have only lead it if had bouldering mat there. Easy route after
Really fun multipitch. Thread is bomber at belay position, first move was fun.
|Double Knee Bar||31/Oct/09||2nd O/S||
Did chimney start, very green.
|Jack Loftus||29/Oct/09||AltLd O/S|
kept on route for the proper start which def makes this HS, qwould prob only be S without.
Mike Redding, Neil Peck
Nice route. Did it all in one pitch - just didn't put any gear in until the second pitch :D
led the easy 2nd pitch
matt and phill
|Richard Gilbert||11/Apr/09||AltLd O/S||
I led first pitch, with the proper start - pleased with myself!
Lead pitch 2
Jeffcoat's Chimney variation to start (HS 4b). Nicola led the first pitch. I led the second.
Led p1, including the 5a start.
Holly Adamthwaite and Clive Greenwood
|Laurence Everitt||13/Sep/08||Lead O/S||
green and rubbish
|Dave Lacey||30/Aug/08||AltLd O/S|
Scott & Rachel
As 1 pitch
hissey and gavin
Lead second easy half
Made a general pigs ear of the first move and fortunately there was no one around to see some really poor technique! After that everything gets much easier. A very nice route. Alsion lead and placed a no 2 freind which she knew was irretrievable as soon as it was in. Unfortunately for us it was nearly dark by the time we'd both had a good go at trying to get it out!!
|cooper leek||?/Mar/08||2nd O/S||
I Lead the 2nd pitch, I chose the less difficult start up the chimney but had to move across pretty quickly to retrieve pro as Chris had done the direct start.
|Will Hunt||12/Jan/08||AltLd O/S||
Lead first pitch
|Eddie Hung||04/Nov/07||Lead RP||
Really dodgy start, slipped off a few times at the beginning before doing the whole thing clean. Did it as one pitch.
Dave Hodgkinson, James Smith
Nice climb. Tricky start but really cool.
Emma Ross (leading) & Patrick Von Glenn
|Col Kingshott||06/Oct/07||Lead O/S|
|matt ling||11/Sep/07||AltLd O/S|
I led first pitch
Led 2nd Pitch
|Graeme Hammond||01/Sep/07||Lead O/S|
Al #1 me #2 started via chimney
stiff start and run out for HS
Bill and Steve Bes
A pretty darn good route. The direct start is hard but ok as long as you commit. Def 5a. The end of pitch 1 has an airy feel, the only thing that slightly let it down was a couple of dubious pieces of rock.
Dominique B, Rosalind
Led both pitches. Nothing too hard but great fun all the way.
Wanted to lead this but didn't like the look of the start. Now I've done it clean, it's on the lead wishlist!
|Steve Waters, Mynydd||01/Apr/07||Lead O/S||
|Ivan Lissin||?/Dec/06||Lead O/S||
My partner was supposed to be leading but was struggling with the start so I decided to have a go. This was my first proper lead and a great one at that. Scary moment came after the direct start as I struggled to find a place for my first piece of gear 5m above the ground.
|Simon Caldwell||04/Nov/06||2nd O/S||
Dave led pitch 1, Carmen pitch 2.
Carmen and Dave E
|A Crook||04/Nov/06||Lead O/S|
|Howard J||24/Sep/06||Lead rpt||
Did the easy start
|rob wmc||09/Sep/06||Lead O/S||
Used the chimney to start (4b).
5a direct start, more like 4c
|Katie Weston||08/Aug/06||2nd O/S|
Absolutely hated this, a broken hand hold really put me off, along with fierce rock overs on green roundedness. The hard start was good though.
Did the hard start
|dan gibson||04/Jun/06||Solo rpt|
first 2 pitch climb,great belay ledge.
|victim of mathematics||14/Jun/05||Lead O/S|
|Howard J||11/May/04||Lead O/S||
|Andy Clarke||07/Aug/03||Lead O/S||
|Dave Bond||??/2003||Lead O/S|
|Dave Mason||?/Nov/02||Lead O/S||
|John Brayshaw||09/Jun/01||AltLd O/S|
|Russell Flynn||16/Jul/00||Lead O/S|
Banjo fell, gear ripped, landed on my head & hyper extended cruciate ligament, 6 weeks in plaster. Bummer.
|Le Chevalier Mal Fet||?/Jun/96||Lead|
|CrashMat Rob||??/1996||Lead O/S|
|Ian Archer||23/Sep/95||2nd O/S||
|adam carless||??/1995||2nd O/S|
In demi dark, horrendous midges
Pete Dainty, Pete Bott
Pete Williams and Pat Higson
|chris sm||??/0000||AltLd O/S||