Staffordshire > Roaches Skyline >
 
Entropy's Jaw*** E5 6b

Adjacent Climbs
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Script for a Tier >>
[Rich Buswell, 2 kb]8m. Start up Wild Thing but follow the impossibly-thin seam up the smooth slab to the right. Good but hard-earned small wires protect; they have been tested but this definitely isn't to be recommended. © ROCKFAX
FA. Andrew Woodward 1982

Ticklists: Best slab climbs of the UK, The Roaches - Routes Graded List, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck, The Roaches Skyline 'E' challenge.

Photo: Rich Buswell © Stuart Brooks
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 52 logbooks, and on 18 wishlists.

Going to get this badger one day
Andrew Abraham - TR dog - 14/May/14 with Ky

Ground up with pads. had 1 go and jumped off to test pads, then next go, slipped with fingers on top of crag, not sure why i fell off. next go did it. Awesome sequence!!
Ed Booth - Solo - 22/Feb/14 with Duncan, Bubbles, Nathan Lee, Benno Wagner, Rob Greenwood, Fennerz

nathanlee - Sent rpt - 22/Feb/14 with Duncan Campbell, Rob Greenwood, Ben Norman, Emlyn James

Very good beta here, felt pretty steady, great climbing, chuffed
BenNorman - Solo β - 22/Feb/14 with Crew, Nathan Lee

fennerz - Solo β - 22/Feb/14 with Ed Booth

markalmack - Sent x - 29/Dec/13 with Howard, chris todd

Way too hot. Above 2 good pads and 2 bad pads. Definitely going back for it when it's cooler.
Ewano - Sent dnf - 22/Aug/13 with Pete Danson

Hidden - TR dnf - 09/Jul/13

best line I will ever do. fantastic climbing, first E5, very happy!
PeteWilson - Solo - 25/Jun/13 with Matt Wilson

pipof747 - Lead RP - 10/May/13

Ky - TR RP - 08/Apr/13 with Will Davies

Ky - TR RP - 04/Apr/13 with Stevie Hammond

Snowballed
sgl0jd - Solo RP - Apr/13

managed to place to reasonable looking wires
Harry Chaplin - Lead RP - 02/Mar/13

C coldwell-storry - Lead β - 17/Feb/13 with rob lay

Andrew Jennings - Sent β - 02/Feb/13 with Dan Mcmanus, Andy Reeve

mark20 - Sent β - 18/Nov/12

Hidden - Solo - 18/Nov/12

Hidden - Lead RP - 18/Nov/12

Amazing climb, so so good. 4 pads, took the fall from where my fingers were 1cm from the top and skidded down the slab but it was fine. 4th or 5th go, just a amazing route.
al123 - Solo - 13/May/12 with alistair

Yay!
Spidermunkie - Solo RP - 02/Mar/12

Second go ground up above pads.
jacobjacob - Solo RP - 26/Feb/12

ground up with pads. Special route.
Ian Broome - Sent - 14/Jan/12

first go
maddy.c - Sent - 2012

Ky - 2012

initially bouldered up and did a couple of controlled jump offs - one from quite high where I realised how good the small wire placement is (which made me inclined to use it). Placed the wire from reaching down from the top, then sketched it out first go with a rope on after that. Class micro route, brilliant fun.
Ram MkiV - Lead - 29/Jan/11 with Guy & Oaks

easy fall but a scary proposition, will be back with more pads or a wire to lead
GuyVG - Solo dnf - 29/Jan/11 with noaks and stephen

harvie - Solo - 22/Jan/11

Hidden - Solo - 2011

ground up, pads 1 fall
Mr Wild - Solo - 14/Nov/10

edinbed - Sent - 30/Oct/10

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - Solo rpt - 24/Oct/10 with Rachel Briggs

Amazing. Flash with pads and good foot work beta. Never done anything like this before, loved it.
Richard Hall - Solo β - 24/Oct/10

thrutch - Lead dog - 17/Oct/10 with Sven

Ground up - Excellent!
nathanlee - Lead - 25/Sep/10 with Dom Lee

dominic lee - Lead β - 25/Sep/10 with nathan lee

I'll have to come back on a colder day. My foot kept pinging rather unpredictably off the crux
sgl0jd - TR - 01/Sep/10

simeclimb68 - TR dog - 01/Sep/10

super prob
northy1983 - Solo - 2010

Those thin seams are tricky little things!
sam8oy - TR RP - 08/Sep/07 with John

nathanmanc - Solo RP - 04/Feb/07

Ground up. 1 fall onto a mat from the crux. Contender for the best micro-route, along with Tierdrop.
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - Solo - 2005

Hidden - Solo RP - 21/Sep/04

mark s - Lead - 2003

Gus - Lead - 03/Jul/01

nige - Lead RP - 2000 with mark hounslea

Hidden - Lead - 01/Jul/99

Dave Musgrove Jnr - Lead - 20/Sep/98 with tim lowe

Jon Read - Lead rpt - Oct/97 with Matt Gallagher

Pre-mats.
Jon Read - Solo RP - Jul/92 with Roger Peppe

mark mcgowan01 - May/86

mark mcgowan01 - 1986

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, ashtond6, stvey, richiebongo, Jordanh031, Hidden, mfisher, PeteWilson, jonnybull, mhawk, Ewano, quiffhanger, Hidden, Hidden, Dr Toph, tommytwotone, bryn marsh, Steve Banham

Voting
Total votes cast 88
hard E60 of 28
E60 of 28
easy E60 of 28
hard E51 of 28
E522 of 28
easy E55 of 28
hard E40 of 28
E40 of 28
easy E40 of 28
hard 6c0 of 32
6c0 of 32
easy 6c0 of 32
hard 6b1 of 32
6b27 of 32
easy 6b4 of 32
hard 6a0 of 32
6a0 of 32
easy 6a0 of 32
3 Stars25 of 28
2 Stars3 of 28
1 Star0 of 28
0 Stars0 of 28
Bag of .....0 of 28
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Style of ascent

Soloed20 of 52 (38.5%)
Lead14 of 52 (26.9%)
Toproped7 of 52 (13.5%)
Bouldered8 of 52 (15.4%)
Unknown3 of 52 (5.8%)

'Climbed'22 of 52 (42.3%)
clean β7 of 52 (13.5%)
clean rpt3 of 52 (5.8%)
clean RP14 of 52 (26.9%)
dogged3 of 52 (5.8%)
dnf3 of 52 (5.8%)