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Karabiner Chimney* HVD

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[Ross starting out on Karabiner Chimney, 3 kb]10m. The right-facing cleft is a mini-classic of its type. © ROCKFAX
FA. R Desmond-Stevens 1945

Ticklists: Twelve fine routes in the lower grades at the Roaches, The Pearson-Tanner Roaches Expedition.

Photo: Ross starting out on Karabiner Chimney © khumbu-Kid
View all 4 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 103 logbooks, and on 9 wishlists.

jack 9895 - Lead O/S - 07/Mar/14

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 05/Oct/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Oct/13

Quite tough, but hugely entertaining. Top out is interesting - but I cracked it once I stripped all the gear off the sides of my harness.
Otis - Lead - 31/Aug/13

Really nice. Keep out of the chimney and use the holds on the left.
Le Chevalier Mal Fet - Lead - 14/Aug/13 with Dan Chadfield

DanChad - 2nd O/S - 14/Aug/13 with Chris Murray

nesbear - Aug/13 with marshy

Hidden - Lead - 06/May/13

kez1 - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/13 with rob rendle, james davies

Hidden - 2nd - 14/Oct/12

CGlennie - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/12 with Rob Smith

robphys - 2nd - 08/Aug/12 with chris glennie

Mike Turner - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/12 with Joshua Turner

lcullum7 - 2nd O/S - 14/Jul/12 with Dave Lomax

Hidden - 2012

Paul Hy - 2nd O/S - 14/Aug/11 with Ian

hotfeet - Lead - 07/Aug/11 with Mac

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 07/Aug/11

razzorbuzz - TR O/S - 01/Aug/11

Difficult for tall people, as useful to be able to turn body in the top of the chimney
Monkey_bill - 2nd - 13/Jul/11

moelfras - Lead - 03/Jul/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 24/Jun/11

colin milton - Solo - 21/May/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Mar/11

donkster - 2nd rpt - 19/Mar/11 with DaveNW

Grotty, tricky and hard for the grade, especially the top out!
PeteWilson - Lead O/S - 06/Mar/11

Hidden - 2011

Blackgoby - 2nd O/S - 08/Sep/10 with Tracey

Lovely wet & grotty, just like chimney's should be!
slacky - Lead O/S - 07/Aug/10 with John Thompson

SteWatkins - Jul/10

Gking - 2nd - May/10 with Martin

Great open chimney, avoided stepping on the nest halfway up!
Alex Thompson - Lead O/S - 21/Mar/10 with Liz, Mayeul

GF - 2010

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 17/Oct/09

rfdl100 - Lead β - 27/Sep/09

A real tussle, especially the top out.
buzzjen - 2nd - 12/Sep/09 with JWP

Hidden - 2nd - 22/Aug/09

Per previous comments below - a right stuggle. Opted to traverse right and climb the handhold-less crack instead! Not what I had expected from a starred route.
hcooper - Lead - 22/Aug/09 with Jennifer Slack

tricky for hvd
axeman - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/09 with grace

Looks grotesque, but is actually quite pleasant.
Chris Craggs - Lead - 06/Aug/09 with Dave Gregory

Climb Ok but the chimmney at top is too thin fr my shoulders Had a stuggle to get out
bennevis - Lead O/S - 27/Jun/09 with Heather

donkster - Lead O/S - Jun/09 with crooko

ChrisBigwood - Lead - 10/May/09 with Lee Eccles, Mark Rowe

ChrisBigwood - Lead - 10/May/09 with Lee Eccles, Mark Rowe

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/May/09

Warren Earle - 2nd O/S - 11/Apr/09 with Nev and Nick

PaulGreenhead - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/09 with Kirsty

Kirsty - 2nd - 11/Apr/09 with PaulGreenhead

Just my sort of thing - a thrutchy chimney needing to be wrestled into submission :)
mike_hough_uk - Lead - 05/Apr/09 with chri55ie

chri55ie - 2nd - 05/Apr/09 with Mike Hough

khumbu-Kid - 2nd - 15/Mar/09 with Ross

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Mar/09

Laurence Everitt - Lead O/S - 07/Mar/09 with Rachel Takacs, Tessa Baston

Martyn - Lead - 2009

vet - Lead - 21/Sep/08 with Jon

Horrible! Got stuck in the chimney at the top, traversed out right and went up the crack instead. I'll have to have another go and try the layback approach at the top!
mmalbon - Lead - 19/Jun/08 with Mick

Hidden - Solo O/S - 08/May/08

daveagriff - Lead - 2008

Sean Kelly - 2008

VD in guide, good tussle all the way. awful.
Milne - Lead O/S - 07/Oct/07 with gemma & darrel.

Grunted up, hard work, good laugh although I left most of the skin off of my knuckles in the chimney.
Darrel - TR dog - 07/Oct/07 with Terry & Gemma

struggled at top
tuohy - 2nd dog - 07/Oct/07 with terry & darrel

Hidden - Lead - 22/Sep/07

Hidden - 2nd - 22/Sep/07

I reckon it deserves more than the 1* that the rockfax guide gives it!
Chris Lyon - Lead O/S - 31/Jul/07 with Tom Whitehead

doctom - 2nd O/S - 31/Jul/07 with Chris Lyon

Hidden - 2nd - 01/Jun/07

Hidden - Lead - 01/Jun/07

daza - 2nd - 25/Apr/07 with Ash

Wonderful, two nice laybacks the last one is to stop getting stuck in the chimney.
ungracefulathlete - 2nd O/S - 17/Apr/07 with Ben

only my third lead, so I picked it not to be too hard. Was interesting to a point. Never felt threatened even when I was a mterplus above my protection. A bit of a scrape getting over the top.
rawk - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/07 with maurice

Hidden - 2nd - 11/Sep/06

Alfredo - Lead - Sep/06 with Jen

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/May/06

Hidden - 2nd - 06/May/06

FrankW - 2nd O/S - 29/Apr/06 with Joe

Caralynh - 2nd - 17/Jul/05 with Jez Hadall

Hidden - Lead - 17/Jul/05

davek - Lead O/S - Jun/05 with Larson

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/04

Chesh - 2nd - 2004 with Sparky

Hidden - 2004

Hidden - Solo O/S - 2004

climbed on shunt
Yourlead - TR - 14/Apr/03

Smelly Fox - Lead O/S - 07/Apr/03

andy_pemberton - Lead - Mar/03 with Katharine Pemberton

Hidden - Solo - 2003

petekeron - Lead O/S - 2001

Hidden - 2nd - 01/Oct/00

Laramadness - Solo O/S - 16/Oct/99

Budge - Solo - 04/Jun/98 with Mike Oates

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1997

nai - Solo - 1995

smudge - Solo O/S - 1993

babymoac - Solo - 19/Apr/92

Roget - Solo O/S - 01/Jul/89 with jim

Iain Thow - Solo - 17/May/89

tapley - Solo - 18/Sep/87

Nigel Bond - Lead - 28/Mar/87 with Martin Cash

Ian Archer - 2nd - 06/Sep/86 with Tony Morris

RichardMc - Solo - 13/May/78

rogerskews - Solo - 1974

mikej - Solo - 26/Aug/70 with Stewart Grant

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, SuperLee1985, Hidden, pc1983, Hidden, hapymike, Chewie, Kamikaze Badger, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 27
hard S0 of 13
S0 of 13
easy S1 of 13
hard HVD3 of 13
HVD6 of 13
easy HVD1 of 13
hard VD2 of 13
VD0 of 13
easy VD0 of 13
3 Stars0 of 14
2 Stars8 of 14
1 Star4 of 14
0 Stars2 of 14
Bag of .....0 of 14
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent

Soloed15 of 103 (14.6%)
Lead46 of 103 (44.7%)
Followed32 of 103 (31.1%)
Toproped3 of 103 (2.9%)
Unknown7 of 103 (6.8%)

'Climbed'56 of 103 (54.4%)
clean O/S43 of 103 (41.7%)
clean β1 of 103 (1.0%)
clean rpt1 of 103 (1.0%)
dogged2 of 103 (1.9%)