Rockfax Description
10m. The right-facing cleft is a mini-classic of its type. © Rockfax

FA. R Desmond-Stevens 1945

Ticklists: Twelve fine routes in the lower grades at the Roaches, The Pearson-Tanner Roaches Expedition.

Hidden 26/Sep 2nd
Hidden 21/Jun Lead
John Holden 13/Sep/14 Lead

Guide book writers sandbag of the year.

with Chris Lovewell, Helen Costelloe
Hidden 17/May/14 TR O/S
Hidden 17/May/14 TR O/S
matt8hew88 17/May/14 TR β
markK6 03/May/14 Lead O/S

Started on the slab for the opening moves but fancied a fight so committed to the chimney, there was a Blackbirds nest with 4 eggs about a third of the way up,the finishing moves are interesting which found me having to rotate my body to "thrutch" up to the top. Great Scrap!

with Simon
Hidden 03/May/14 2nd O/S
gavster 19/Apr/14 2nd
with ruth, rob
Ruthie 19/Apr/14 2nd O/S
Rob Royle 19/Apr/14 Lead
with Ruth, Gav
pjames87 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S
jack 9895 07/Mar/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Oct/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 05/Oct/13 Lead O/S
Otis 31/Aug/13 Lead

Quite tough, but hugely entertaining. Top out is interesting - but I cracked it once I stripped all the gear off the sides of my harness.

Le Chevalier Mal Fet 14/Aug/13 Lead

Really nice. Keep out of the chimney and use the holds on the left.

DanChad 14/Aug/13 2nd O/S
nesbear ?/Aug/13 -
with marshy
Hidden 06/May/13 Lead
kez1 19/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with rob rendle, james davies
Hidden 14/Oct/12 2nd
CGlennie 08/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Rob Smith
robphys 08/Aug/12 2nd
with chris glennie
Mike Turner 21/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Joshua Turner
lcullum7 14/Jul/12 2nd O/S
with Dave Lomax
Hidden ??/2012 -
Paul Hy 14/Aug/11 2nd O/S
with Ian
hotfeet 07/Aug/11 Lead
with Mac
Hidden 07/Aug/11 2nd O/S
razzorbuzz 01/Aug/11 TR O/S
Monkey_bill 13/Jul/11 2nd

Difficult for tall people, as useful to be able to turn body in the top of the chimney

moelfras 03/Jul/11 Lead
Hidden 24/Jun/11 2nd O/S
colin milton 21/May/11 Solo
Hidden 19/Mar/11 Lead O/S
donkster 19/Mar/11 2nd rpt
with DaveNW
PeteWilson 06/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Grotty, tricky and hard for the grade, especially the top out!

Hidden ??/2011 -
Blackgoby 08/Sep/10 2nd O/S
with Tracey
Hidden 07/Aug/10 Lead O/S
SteWatkins ?/Jul/10 -
Gking ?/May/10 2nd
with Martin
Alex Thompson 21/Mar/10 Lead O/S

Great open chimney, avoided stepping on the nest halfway up!

with Liz, Mayeul
GF ??/2010 -
Hidden 17/Oct/09 2nd O/S
rfdl100 27/Sep/09 Lead β
buzzjen 12/Sep/09 2nd

A real tussle, especially the top out.

with JWP
Hidden 22/Aug/09 2nd
hcooper 22/Aug/09 Lead

Per previous comments below - a right stuggle. Opted to traverse right and climb the handhold-less crack instead! Not what I had expected from a starred route.

axeman 08/Aug/09 Lead O/S

tricky for hvd

with grace
Chris Craggs 06/Aug/09 Lead

Looks grotesque, but is actually quite pleasant.

with Dave Gregory
bennevis 27/Jun/09 Lead O/S

Climb Ok but the chimmney at top is too thin fr my shoulders Had a stuggle to get out

with Heather
donkster ?/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with crooko
ChrisBigwood 10/May/09 Lead
with Lee Eccles, Mark Rowe
ChrisBigwood 10/May/09 Lead
with Lee Eccles, Mark Rowe
Hidden 03/May/09 Lead O/S
Warren Earle 11/Apr/09 2nd O/S
PaulGreenhead 11/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Kirsty
Kirsty 11/Apr/09 2nd
mike_hough_uk 05/Apr/09 Lead

Just my sort of thing - a thrutchy chimney needing to be wrestled into submission :)

chri55ie 05/Apr/09 2nd
khumbu-Kid 15/Mar/09 2nd
with Ross
Valentino 15/Mar/09 Lead O/S
Laurence Everitt 07/Mar/09 Lead O/S
Martyn ??/2009 Lead
vet 21/Sep/08 Lead
with Jon
mmalbon 19/Jun/08 Lead

Horrible! Got stuck in the chimney at the top, traversed out right and went up the crack instead. I'll have to have another go and try the layback approach at the top!

with Mick
Hidden 08/May/08 Solo O/S
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
Sean Kelly ??/2008 -
Milne 07/Oct/07 Lead O/S

VD in guide, good tussle all the way. awful.

with gemma & darrel.
Darrel 07/Oct/07 TR dog

Grunted up, hard work, good laugh although I left most of the skin off of my knuckles in the chimney.

with Terry & Gemma
tuohy 07/Oct/07 2nd dog

struggled at top

with terry & darrel
Hidden 22/Sep/07 Lead
Hidden 22/Sep/07 2nd
Chris Lyon 31/Jul/07 Lead O/S

I reckon it deserves more than the 1* that the rockfax guide gives it!

with Tom Whitehead
doctom 31/Jul/07 2nd O/S
with Chris Lyon
Hidden 01/Jun/07 2nd
Hidden 01/Jun/07 Lead
daza 25/Apr/07 2nd
with Ash
ungracefulathlete 17/Apr/07 2nd O/S

Wonderful, two nice laybacks the last one is to stop getting stuck in the chimney.

with Ben
rawk 15/Apr/07 Lead O/S

only my third lead, so I picked it not to be too hard. Was interesting to a point. Never felt threatened even when I was a mterplus above my protection. A bit of a scrape getting over the top.

with maurice
Hidden 11/Sep/06 2nd
Alfredo ?/Sep/06 Lead
with Jen
Hidden 06/May/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/May/06 2nd
FrankW 29/Apr/06 2nd O/S
with Joe
Caralynh 17/Jul/05 2nd
Hidden 17/Jul/05 Lead
John Eley ?/Jul/05 Lead O/S
davek ?/Jun/05 Lead O/S
with Larson
Hidden 10/Jul/04 Lead O/S
Chesh ??/2004 2nd
with Sparky
Hidden ??/2004 -
Hidden ??/2004 Solo O/S
Yourlead 14/Apr/03 TR

climbed on shunt

Smelly Fox 07/Apr/03 Lead O/S
andy_pemberton ?/Mar/03 Lead
with Katharine Pemberton
Hidden ??/2003 Solo
petekeron ??/2001 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Oct/00 2nd
alan moore ??/2000 -
Laramadness 16/Oct/99 Solo O/S
Budge 04/Jun/98 Solo
with Mike Oates
Hidden ??/1997 Lead O/S
nai ??/1995 Solo
smudge ??/1993 Solo O/S
babymoac 19/Apr/92 Solo
Babika 09/Jul/89 Lead
with Mark Jones
Roget 01/Jul/89 Solo O/S
with jim
Iain Thow 17/May/89 Solo
tapley 18/Sep/87 Solo
Nigel Bond 28/Mar/87 Lead
with Martin Cash
Ian Archer 06/Sep/86 2nd
with Tony Morris
RichardMc 13/May/78 Solo
rogerskews ??/1974 Solo
mikej 26/Aug/70 Solo
with Stewart Grant
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
TizzyA, SuperLee1985, Hidden, pc1983, Hidden, hapymike, Chewie, Kamikaze Badger, Hidden
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
High VD
Mid VD
Low VD
Votes cast 15
Votes cast 16
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set