Rockfax Description
16m. Climb the right arete of the buttress on its right-hand side, passing over the perched block to the final wall where spooky moves left into the chimney become imperative. A Direct Finish isVS 4b and a bold Right-hand Finish, via a flake, is HVS 4c. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Twelve fine routes in the lower grades at the Roaches, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, 100 Western Grit Stars.

MusicalMountaineer 21/Nov Lead O/S

Very good fun.

with Gloria
Gloria 21/Nov 2nd
clairemathews 27/Sep Lead O/S
with Richard Apthorp
Hidden 27/Sep 2nd O/S
Hidden 26/Sep Lead
gavster 26/Apr 2nd
with rob
Rob Royle 26/Apr Lead
with Gav
bantamdave 26/Apr 2nd O/S

Super day out

with Roger B
Hidden 25/Apr Lead O/S
fuzzysheep01 24/Apr Solo O/S
slab_happy 02/Apr 2nd
with Liam
jamestb 22/Mar Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Mar Solo
Finn Curry 27/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Tim Akast
gavster 19/Apr/14 2nd
with ruth, rob
Ruthie 19/Apr/14 2nd O/S
Rob Royle 19/Apr/14 Lead
with Ruth, Gav
pjames87 19/Apr/14 Lead
karlb 12/Apr/14 2nd
Smeghead 12/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Karl bamford
HannahC 30/Mar/14 Lead
with Jo Smith
Hidden 08/Mar/14 AltLd O/S
anthonylewis 08/Mar/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2014 2nd O/S
Hidden 05/Oct/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 05/Oct/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Sep/13 2nd O/S
Le Chevalier Mal Fet 14/Aug/13 Lead
DanChad 14/Aug/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 11/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Sarah2508 11/Jul/13 2nd O/S
csh.1000 09/Jun/13 TR O/S
with Robin, Mike
MikeDowsett 09/Jun/13 2nd
with Colin Harper, Robin Stiffin
Hidden 06/May/13 Lead
Hidden 06/May/13 2nd
catt 13/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Excellent. For the grade, that step into the chimney as memorable as 'the' move on Valkyrie.

with Amy
mrs catt 13/Apr/13 2nd O/S
with Iain
lukebowman551 22/Sep/12 2nd O/S
with Craig Shelley, Duncan Bourne
Robnort 24/Aug/12 TR O/S
bullybones 18/Aug/12 Solo
CGlennie 08/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Rob Smith
robphys 08/Aug/12 2nd
bennys89 ?/Jul/12 Lead
Bisteris 04/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with Glen Du Jardin
tim exley 11/Apr/12 Lead O/S

hard move up to the block

with alice
alicethwaites 11/Apr/12 2nd β
Dan0Me 19/Feb/12 2nd
with Daniel Smedley
Ross.Cooper 29/Jan/12 Lead O/S

A bit bold in places

yarrow 29/Jan/12 2nd O/S
fletch540 ??/2012 Lead O/S

direct finish VS

with joe flannagan
Hidden ??/2012 Solo
Hidden 04/Dec/11 2nd
Derek Furze 28/Oct/11 Solo
Hidden 22/Oct/11 Lead O/S
virgil ?/Oct/11 Lead

fantastic value for money. a sppoky move across the gap indeeed

with bcc
eeonz 20/Aug/11 Lead
tompilgrem 19/Aug/11 2nd O/S
with Nick/D
hotfeet 07/Aug/11 Lead
with Mac
Hidden 07/Aug/11 2nd O/S
Stevie_R 14/Jul/11 Lead rpt

Very pleasant little climb. Stepping across the gully gives good exposure for vd.

with dan brown
Hidden 12/Jul/11 Solo O/S
moelfras 03/Jul/11 Lead
Chris Sansum 02/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Kind of soloed - just placed a sling to protect the second at the top of the first section before the traverse. Did the route just to keep warm while waiting for 'Thrug' to become free.

with Nathaelle Bouttes
hazeysunshine 23/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with GT
Paul Hy 21/May/11 2nd O/S
with Damien K, Tony
colin milton 21/May/11 Solo
Doug Hughes 20/Apr/11 2nd O/S
with Paul
trish1968 17/Apr/11 Lead

took a while to step over the gap

Hidden 17/Apr/11 2nd
Sam Simpson 10/Apr/11 2nd O/S
alias dave 10/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Sam.EB
tubby Tez 03/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 27/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Mar/11 Solo O/S
mmalbon 22/Aug/10 Lead
with James, Simon
Paul1 19/Jun/10 Lead
with Jon
Hidden 12/Jun/10 2nd O/S
John Lewis 12/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Maureen
Hidden 12/Jun/10 2nd O/S
Leelogs 12/Jun/10 Lead
with SCC
Jim Malo 31/May/10 Lead O/S
electriclinz 23/May/10 2nd

Round of applause from the baby jackdaws as you make the step across into the chimney.

with Robert
Hidden 22/May/10 Lead
Kamikaze Badger 18/May/10 2nd
with Phil Newing
cooper leek 21/Mar/10 Lead rpt
with dawn
Hidden 06/Mar/10 Lead O/S
GF ??/2010 -
benny_m 13/Sep/09 2nd rpt
silhouette 13/Sep/09 Lead O/S

As I searched inside the horizontal crack for a placement I saw a tiny bat staring back!

with benny_m
Hidden 04/Jul/09 Lead O/S
benny_m 04/Jul/09 2nd O/S
with ali and jo
mmalbon 24/Jun/09 Lead
with Mick, Dave Lowndes, Mick Cartwright and James
Hidden 30/May/09 Lead O/S
deanr 23/May/09 Lead O/S
tomboyle ?/May/09 Lead O/S
with simon boyle
Rob Laird 11/Apr/09 Lead O/S
joe larner 03/Apr/09 Solo O/S
amstel ?/Apr/09 Lead
with Joe
Hidden 22/Mar/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Mar/09 Lead O/S
Ewan Russell 15/Mar/09 Solo O/S
Peter Drake 15/Mar/09 Solo O/S
Hidden 17/Dec/08 Lead O/S
donkster ?/Dec/08 2nd rpt
with DaveNW
masa-alpin 08/Nov/08 Lead O/S
with Adam W
Hidden 12/Oct/08 2nd O/S
asmith37 12/Oct/08 Lead O/S
jumpingjimminy 27/Sep/08 Lead O/S

Look out for the bat halfway up!

with Ellie
Hidden 13/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Sep/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 29/Jul/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 29/Jul/08 Lead O/S
mortimea 13/Jul/08 Lead
with Greg Richards
Hidden 09/Jul/08 Lead O/S
mmalbon 15/Jun/08 Lead

Took the easy route out to the left across the chasm at VDiff. Seconded it a year or 2 ago.

with Mick, Simon and James
Hidden 08/May/08 Solo O/S
Allan Young 03/May/08 2nd O/S
with Owen Evans
Hidden 26/Apr/08 Lead O/S
fizzychewitt 26/Apr/08 Lead
with Kat
pepperpot 22/Apr/08 Lead O/S
with Paul Wright
Dave Wearing 12/Apr/08 2nd
with Geoff Graham
Stig 09/Feb/08 Lead O/S

VS 4b variant

with Goi
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
Hidden 12/Oct/07 Lead O/S
doughboy_swiftandsure 27/Aug/07 Solo O/S

Took left route out (VD) with that interesting bridging over the abyss.

edmitchell 11/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with kai ren
Hidden 14/Jul/07 Lead O/S
donkster 20/May/07 Solo O/S
with ben
John-Luke Casey 28/Apr/07 2nd O/S
with Josh Jones
Guy Wilson 14/Apr/07 Lead O/S
dan gibson ??/2007 -
AJ007 07/Oct/06 Solo
with Dan
EAYL 05/Sep/06 2nd
with LMB
dread-i 26/Aug/06 Lead O/S


with castleman
eonuk 26/Aug/06 Solo

sadly backed off from chimney ... psyched out by the green - glad i left it

Castleman 26/Aug/06 2nd
with dread-i
John Eley ?/Jun/06 Lead O/S
DerwentDiluted 23/Nov/05 Solo
leonjones 30/Apr/05 2nd
with Paul Ness
Carl Smethurst 04/Sep/04 Solo O/S
Will Gordon ?/Aug/04 Solo
SteveM 28/Mar/04 Lead
with Roger
Hidden ??/2004 -
Simon Caldwell 19/Oct/03 Lead O/S
with Carmen
Mark Stitson (ULGMC) 12/Oct/03 Lead
Sankey 29/Mar/02 Lead
with Andy E
Hammy 27/Mar/02 Solo
Gus ??/2002 Solo
Stevie_R 22/Aug/01 2nd O/S
with rod
Katie Weston ?/Aug/00 2nd
Rich Malcolm 13/May/00 2nd O/S
with Dave Draycott
alan moore ??/2000 -
Brazzer ?/Sep/99 2nd O/S
with Ben Williams
Peakology ??/1999 Lead O/S
with cat
Chalky Cat ??/1999 2nd O/S
with Dom
craig h 08/Oct/98 Solo O/S
with Jamie Lillieman
FrankW 30/Aug/98 Lead O/S
with Roland K
EddieA 23/May/98 Solo O/S
Yourlead 11/Jun/95 Lead
with Graham Penny
smudge ??/1993 Solo O/S
Roget 11/Nov/90 Solo O/S
andrew300169 ??/1990 -
Iain Thow 17/May/89 Solo
tlr ?/Oct/88 Solo
with Fin and Nick
tapley 18/Sep/87 Solo
Ian Archer 06/Sep/86 Solo O/S
Nigel Bond 09/Jan/83 Lead
with Charlie Leverton
Rog Wilko ?/Mar/71 Lead
with Debbie Wilkinson
mikej 24/Jun/70 Solo
with Nick Taylor, Rosemary Lewis, Pete Williams, Malcolm Eldridge
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
shell145, hthom, TizzyA, SuperLee1985, Hidden, reckless_rat, Hidden, hapymike, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden
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Votes cast 24
Votes cast 21
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set