Restricted Access
The previous owner who had a history of violent altercations with climbers has passed away. The attitude of the current occupiers towards access for climbing is not known. If climbers are asked to leave or are challenged for being on the cliff please contact the BMC with details.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 February to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Seasonal restrictions apply across the whole crag.
79m, 3 pitches.
An exciting and pumpy excursion around the zawn. Big cams are useful.
P1 5b 30m Climb over onto the diagonal ramp and pull on to the steep
face. Follow the obvious break curving up leftwards. This is surprisingly
pumpy and sustained; even as the angle eases the holds deteriorate! Continue
in the same line to belay on Gnome.
P2 5a 15m Climb up to the next break, and traverse under the overhang
to a junction with Smurf. Follow this to its stance.
P3 4b 34m Traverse horizontally into the corner, and descend this for 3m to
an obvious line. Follow this leftward to the easy-angled ramp and belay here.
Scramble off to finish.
P1 5b 30m Climb over onto the diagonal ramp and pull on to the steep
face. Follow the obvious break curving up leftwards. This is surprisingly
pumpy and sustained; even as the angle eases the holds deteriorate! Continue
in the same line to belay on Gnome.
P2 5a 15m Climb up to the next break, and traverse under the overhang
to a junction with Smurf. Follow this to its stance.
P3 4b 34m Traverse horizontally into the corner, and descend this for 3m to
an obvious line. Follow this leftward to the easy-angled ramp and belay here.
Scramble off to finish.
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Route of Interest
Mousetrap
Grade: E2 5a ***
(Gogarth South Stack)