128m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
One of the most amazing routes at Gogarth. The climbing is involved, adventurous but never desperate, and the geology is simply marvellous. Start at the base of the zawn at the left-hand side of a cave.
1) 5a, 40m. Climb to the top of the groove, place a high wire, move back down and step out onto the wall. Now trend up and right against the grain of the rock to eventually arrive at a slab. Follow this across right to a stance.
2) 5a, 45m. Climb up onto the wall and traverse right to a diagonal line. Move up this and then round a fin of rock on the right to enter the next groove. Follow this up to where it turns into a long narrow slab, and continue to a thread belay at its top, below a steep tower.
3) 5a, 30m. An exciting finale! Move right into a niche, and gain a crack on the right, follow this up with difficulty to where it kinks left to a corner. Follow the corner up to where the angle eases. Climb easy ground up right and then back left to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
In the definitive guide the first and second pitch's are both given 5b, which I would agree with. Take plenty of slings.

Ticklists: Hard Rock, Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice, North Wales Rock Graded List, ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales, MIA logbook must haves!, Unusual and Interesting Routes You Must Do VS- E2, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, The Road to Shibboleth, Ultimate E2 ticklist, UK Lonely Leads, The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist, The Top 5 E2's in the UK?, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, 2015 Objectives.

Brown 03/Nov AltLd
with Ben S
Martin Haworth 01/Nov Lead rpt

In a T-shirt....in November!

with Tony
Tony Holdsworth 01/Nov 2nd O/S
Dan Vaj 23/Oct 2nd O/S
with James Machaffie
Pete_Frost 19/Oct Lead dnf

Got to the bollard and high runner on p1 then holds started coming off leaving damp sand where they used to be attached. I downclimbed before I could damage the route any more. Feels like Red Rocks sandstone which is solid when dry, but quickly breaks when damp. I'll be back when it has had two days of sun and a drying wind.

with Climbing Joe from Anglesey
jamestaylor92 08/Oct AltLd O/S
with Alex Cutbush
JamesWilliams 25/Sep AltLd O/S

AMAZING! like climbing on the moon then top pitch of mars! hexes not essential. lots of slings tho, thought the top pitch was pretty tough for 4c unless went the wrong way. any 5a on all the pitches is very short lived tho. needs a confident leader, well done bren on the cheese chimney

with bren
JenShelley 20/Sep 2nd O/S

Led p3. Amazing rock - so weird to have hands and feet on totally different textures. My first route at Gogarth and loved it!

with Mike
MichaelGallimore 20/Sep AltLd

P1 P2, amazing juggy climbing in pitch 1, pitch two a little harrowing, ran out of slings. Unbelievably corrugated rock. Very impressed.

Hidden 19/Sep AltLd O/S
harry_lewis 04/Sep AltLd O/S

bizarre and terrifying

amccann 04/Sep AltLd O/S
RonnydeWeerd ?/Sep AltLd O/S
with Tom ten Voorde
mr mills 31/Aug AltLd O/S

Climbed p1-3, Roger climbed p2 which I thought was an awesome pitch, amazing climbing, Iv`e given all pitches 5a as I felt there was no 5b moves on the whole route

with Roger
Hidden 31/Aug AltLd O/S
Hidden 31/Aug AltLd
Steve Crowe 30/Aug AltLd O/S

Brilliant. Enter the world of Wallace & Grommit Words can't describe what an superb and unusual experience.

with KM
JRJones 21/Aug AltLd O/S

P1. Climbing is never too hard once you figure out which holds aren't going to fall off. On P3 the answer is that they will almost all fall off.

with chris
Hidden 21/Aug AltLd O/S
Nigel Bond 16/Aug Lead O/S
with Colin Hutton
spragglerocks 15/Aug AltLd O/S

Led p2. Great climb but scary and you wouldn't want to fall off!

with Misha
Misha 15/Aug AltLd O/S

Been wanting to do it for ages and it didn't disappoint! What a crazy crag - Red Wall on steroids! Looks like a giant piece of layered cake turned sideways. 110m static got us down to the bottom with rope to spare but the ab line down a wet chimney covered with slimey moss towards the bottom was unpleasant. The line is devious but makes sense when you're one it. Can't even begin to imagine what the FA in '66 would have been like. There's a fair bit of easy trad shuffling but now and then it gets steep and you have to pull on the holds and you definitely need to check what you're pulling on! I thought every pitch was 5b. Fortunately the harder bits generally had some half decent gear not too far away but don't think you'd want to fall off on any of it! There wasn't much loose stuff but certainly a lot of soft stuff and bits that looked like they were waiting to come off but somehow didn't. I led the wandering P1 - needs lots of extenders. Rach did P2 and wasn't phased by the steep crumbling cheese and talc chimney. I finished off with P3, which was more solid due to the Red Wall style skin but you still had to be careful. An experience to remember! Never desperate but hard enough to make it thought provoking. Surprised most people have voted 5a - I thought there were some 5b moves on every pitch and I usually downgrade things, especially tottering sea cliffs!

with Rach
Hidden 12/Aug AltLd
David Kay 12/Aug AltLd O/S

Pitch 1 and 3. Totally absorbing climbing.

with Richard Waltham
Hidden 11/Aug AltLd O/S
renetemple 11/Aug 2nd O/S

Beautiful sunny day. Brilliant memorable route. Hilarious cheese-like rock bands that just crumble if you happen rub it.....

with Kev Avery, Dave Sharpe
guy757 01/Aug -
with Vic
Hidden ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
phil64 ??/2015 Lead
adie84 ??/2015 -
greglad 29/Nov/14 -
john morrissey 04/Oct/14 AltLd rpt

Amazing, still scary but fantastic, Watched by two seals and loads of tourists. Twice is enough now.

with Dave Mann
Hidden 27/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
johnwarburton 22/Sep/14 AltLd

Hot and sunny Mike led first pitch,i got 2nd and Mike led last 2.Felt serious on all pitches,as you wonder if any of the gear will stay in.Belays are solid thank god!!Top pitch is well protected and on better rock,originaly graded HVS.4C 4C 4B 5A (I DONT THINK S) more like E2 5B.

with Mike Hartley
jimxxx 13/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

lead pitch 1 then Ron lead pitch 2 .arrived at the belay only to realise to my dismay that I had left the rope bag at the last belay lol . had to downclimb and back up again .lead up pitch 3 in the sun .great route .We also used a 60m rope to ab in from the usual huge block and scrambled down ,but would not recommend if the grass is damp.

Dave Almond 07/Sep/14 AltLd

Fun in the sun. Another classic Gogarth Day.

Nicole Almond 06/Sep/14 2nd

Very hot, super climb on very interesting rock, really enjoyed it.

with Dad
freemanTom 06/Sep/14 AltLd β

Wow. Let team go ahead of us so can't claim the insight though ended up doing crux different way. Jurgen played the its your lead card so got 1st and 3rd pitch. Amazing and unique route and rock

with Jurgen
duncandarnell 26/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
Daniel Duerden 23/Aug/14 AltLd
PaulTanton 17/Aug/14 AltLd rpt

Just did the first, best, pitch then went onto Mantrap

Martin Haworth 09/Aug/14 AltLd rpt
Brannock 09/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Like climbing the back of stegosaurus, the essential British sea cliff experience? Committing, more than a bit scary but nowhere near as hard as it looks. Brilliant, brilliant route.

dan gibson 08/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with julie carroll
Julie Carroll 08/Aug/14 2nd O/S
with Dan Gibson
Frank the Husky ??/2014 -
Nick Biven ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
Allanfairfechan ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
dave mann ??/2014 AltLd O/S

Adventure climbing at its best.

James Thacker ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
Hidden 09/Oct/13 AltLd O/S
Glenn Sutcliffe 09/Oct/13 AltLd O/S

Quartz chimney section on 1st pitch can only be V diff climbing in the most impressive of positions. 1st pitch is quite possibly one of the best pitches i have ever climbed

with Pete Cresswell
Andrew Wilson 05/Oct/13 AltLd O/S

P1 and p3

Luke Brooks ?/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
with Konrad Doyle
Hidden ?/Sep/13 AltLd
Just Another Dave 28/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Amazing atmospheric route, what terrain! Totally absorbing. Led 1st & 3rd. All technically easy and enough gear too, you just wouldn't particularly like to test any of it.

with Jo Bertalot
Hidden 28/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 10/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/13 -
andybirtwistle ??/2013 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2013 -
Ewan Russell 13/Oct/12 AltLd O/S

1st and 3rd.

with gwen
Hidden 09/Oct/12 2nd
Hidden 22/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 02/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
alasdair19 01/Sep/12 -

with mike brownlow, led middle pitch. phenomenol, what a place

Gezzer 13/Aug/12 2nd

Superb route! Waited about 30 years to do it.

with Val Partington, Steve Burns
Hidden 13/Aug/12 AltLd
Martin Haworth 10/Aug/12 AltLd rpt


with Andy
Andrew Sloan 10/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Have waited 10 years to do this and I wasn't disappointed. The first pitch is surreal.Led 2nd pitch.

Captain Gear ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Stewart Armstrong ??/2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
matt perks ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Adam Booth 03/Dec/11 AltLd O/S

We just needed a touch of snow and would have been full on winter climbing. Awesome terrain.

Ed Booth 03/Dec/11 AltLd O/S

Lead p1+3. Big abseil.

Hidden 21/Oct/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 21/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Drew M 21/Sep/11 -
KRB 18/Sep/11 AltLd O/S

Came up from Bristol for the weekend to specifically do this route, 31 years after 1st setting eyes on it from across the zawn. Had to wait for the rain to stop before eventually climbing in brilliant afternoon sunshine. A fantasic adventure and a real test of nerve despite not being technically difficult - not one to do fresh from the climbing wall. Great to have done such a real classic - thanks Mike.

with Mike Bridges
mike bridges 18/Sep/11 AltLd O/S

Came up for the weekend with Kev especially to do Mousetrap.(it had been 31 yrs since we decided we'd be back another day!)Finally got on it on Sunday afternoon after waiting for the rain to subside.Made the long ab into the zawn and left the rope in place.Turned very hot and sunny & could have done with taking a drink.Kev led pitches 1 & 3, I led 2.Very very impressive climb!most unusual rock.Great care is needed from both leader and second.This is one climb you don't want to fall off on! Great route,worth every star.

Hidden 16/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
dan ely 15/Aug/11 AltLd

no birdshit.

with terry
Si 09/Aug/11 AltLd

Slightly intense but an enjoyable romp non-the-less!

owain86 04/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

Led Pitch 1 + 3. Bit more tricky than I was expecting.

with Chris
chriscarroll 04/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

Had the second pitch. Bold and exciting with snappy footholds...a gogarth classic!

with Owain
Hidden ??/2011 AltLd
Hidden ??/2011 -
JEP ??/2011 -
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
pasbury ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Pete Graham 08/Nov/10 AltLd O/S
Lenny 12/Oct/10 2nd O/S
with Steve
Dave Thompson 04/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
with Thomas Martin
Hidden 22/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
gforce 17/Aug/10 Lead

Most bizarre rock I've ever climbed on. A great adventure.

with Kath
Neil Adams 15/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Brilliant route!

with Andy N
Hidden 15/Aug/10 -
AJM 14/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Tom got a psyche on so led p1&3. Top two pitches quite enjoyable, but belaying p1 was harrowing... More of the grey talcum powder rock than on Red Wall - easier but more serious.

Skinny Kin 01/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Cliff was fine with loads of gear but not loose rock and marginal gear like Mousetrap. Fantastic situation though. 1st people to do after bird ban lifted.

Hidden ?/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
Duncan Campbell 09/Nov/09 AltLd O/S

I led 2nd pitch, loose rock, sandy rock with no real gear for last 20m of pitch well u cud put real crap slings over the quartz extrusions but i doubt they do much or stay on!

with Burgerking!
Hidden 09/Nov/09 AltLd
Hidden 14/Oct/09 AltLd O/S
HeatherF 14/Oct/09 AltLd O/S
with Tom R
Hidden 10/Oct/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 10/Oct/09 AltLd O/S
lukehunt 10/Oct/09 AltLd O/S
Franco Cookson OLD 10/Oct/09 AltLd O/S

Led the bottom (crux) Pitch. proper ace route and pretty solid.

Dave Foster 21/Aug/09 AltLd O/S

Lead P2. Exciting but not hard climbing. Amazing belays that give you plenty of time to take it all in.

with Andy
Hidden 18/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
sinbad 18/Aug/09 AltLd O/S

VERY windy! Got wet getting to the bottom of the route. Led first pitch - great! tricky move out of first chimney. Top pitch - wall was very very windy - a battle - but great!

with Mike Raine
Hidden 18/Aug/09 AltLd
Chad123 06/Aug/09 AltLd O/S

Classic route, first two pitches are fairly exciting but not hard technically, top pitch is excellent on good rock. Funky rock formations....

with Sam and Jo
sgl 06/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
with chad and mallard
Hidden 02/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/09 -
Hidden ?/Aug/09 AltLd
Hidden ?/Aug/09 AltLd
Seymore Butt ??/2009 -
Hidden ??/2009 -
Hidden ?/Sep/08 AltLd
adi bryant 15/Aug/08 AltLd dnf
with Lee
climbingpixie 02/Aug/08 AltLd O/S

Amazing route. Less scary and loose than expected with interesting climbing on every pitch. A surprisingly amenable trip through some awesome terrain. Led pitches 1 and 3.

with Andy Hobson
gjd 25/May/08 AltLd
with Ronnie
Al Evans ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2008 AltLd O/S
Marcus ??/2008 -
chris fox ?/Nov/07 AltLd
smallerrich 24/Oct/07 AltLd

Loose and sandy in places but an amazing climb despite this, the top pitch feels a bit harder than the first which is apparently 5b...

Owain Llewelyn 07/Oct/07 Lead


with Dad
Hidden 06/Oct/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Oct/07 AltLd
frost ?/Sep/07 AltLd
with D Garry
Hidden 13/Aug/07 AltLd O/S
Rich Mayfield 13/Aug/07 AltLd

Silvi Fritzpatric and Glenda Huxter

red1200 ?/Aug/07 AltLd O/S
smollett ?/Aug/07 AltLd


richiebongo ??/2007 AltLd O/S
with Michael Rawlinson
centurion05 ??/2007 AltLd O/S
with chris thorne
mux ??/2007 AltLd O/S
tumbling wizard ??/2007 -
Hidden 11/Sep/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden 10/Sep/06 AltLd O/S
jim robertson ??/2006 -
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
Mark Reeves ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
Hidden ?/Oct/05 AltLd O/S
chrishedgehog 27/Sep/05 Lead O/S
with Clare Wilkie
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 18/Sep/05 AltLd O/S

One of the best routes of its grade in the UK. The climbing and route finding isn't that easy either, so not one to underestimate.

with Dave Ferguson
Hidden ?/Sep/05 AltLd
david morse ?/Sep/05 AltLd O/S
with chris todd
TimJM ?/Sep/05 AltLd O/S
with Dave Reynolds
Hidden ?/Sep/05 AltLd O/S
datoon 14/Aug/05 AltLd O/S
with RT
Phill Mitch ??/2005 Lead O/S
with john d
Hidden ??/2005 AltLd
Davros the Psyched ??/2005 AltLd O/S
Mark Riley ?/Oct/04 Lead O/S
with Tod Emerson
michael burrows 08/Sep/04 2nd
Hidden 07/Aug/04 AltLd
nicholas Barrowclough ?/Aug/04 Lead
Hidden ??/2004 AltLd
haydng ??/2004 AltLd O/S
with Sam, Will
lukea 18/Nov/03 Lead O/S
with Al
DubyaJamesDubya 23/Aug/03 AltLd O/S

Beautiful day for it.

with Paul Collis
Simonfarfaraway ??/2003 AltLd

Fun - but will never repeat (due to poor gear)!

with Steve Hastings
Hidden ??/2002 AltLd O/S
Hidden 27/Aug/01 Lead O/S
nige ?/Apr/00 Lead
with mark hounslea
philhilo ??/2000 Lead O/S

Weekend with SC - he was ill on the day so did it with his mate ? Bold but steady, pegs just stains. Tried this route in 1982 - got lost, scared, and retreated in terror!

tuftynick ??/2000 Lead
zero six ??/2000 Lead O/S
Hamish Leslie ??/1999 AltLd O/S


with Martin Barclay
Rich Kirby 01/Aug/98 AltLd O/S
ArnaudG ?/Aug/98 -
with Gunter
ian caton ?/Aug/98 Lead O/S
with Matt
ColdAndWet ??/1998 AltLd
with Matt Telfer
sadams 27/Sep/97 AltLd
with Hugh Cottom
phardman 20/Jul/97 -
Dave Musgrove Jnr 27/Sep/96 2nd
with Jamie Fisher, Muir Morton
GuyM ?/Aug/96 AltLd
with will
WB ?/Jul/96 AltLd O/S
with Guy
Hidden ??/1996 AltLd O/S
phardman 09/Sep/95 AltLd


with Jon Bibby
Pete Nugent 31/Aug/95 AltLd

led p1 &3. Given E2,5b (p1) at the time (CC Guide 1990)

with John Bennison
Ched ??/1995 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
NeilGriffiths ??/1994 Lead
with Duncs
Hidden 04/Aug/92 Lead
Hidden ??/1992 AltLd
jcw ??/1992 -
with Simon Donowho
Tony Little 09/Nov/91 AltLd O/S

I led the second pitch

whispering nic 03/Sep/91 AltLd
with Graham Iles
mark-abz 25/Aug/91 Lead
with Andy W
Hidden ?/Aug/91 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Sep/90 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/90 AltLd
Dave Rumney ??/1990 -
Hidden ??/1990 -
andy gittins ??/1990 -
Steve Lenartowicz ??/1990 -
johno072 ??/1990 Lead
michael burrows 26/Jul/89 AltLd O/S

led 1st and 3rd pitches

with steve ward
steveboote ??/1988 Lead

With Pete Corbishley

with Pete Corbishley
Hidden 01/Nov/87 AltLd
MikeYouCanClimb 14/Sep/86 -
with Dave Dowson
wynaptomos ?/Jul/86 AltLd O/S
William Robertson ??/1986 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
Hidden ??/1986 AltLd
Hidden 17/Aug/85 AltLd
charlesmfrench 12/Aug/84 AltLd O/S

2,L,2. Again 25/10/1997 with Mark L,2,L.

with Alan Bennett
Martin Haworth ??/1984 Lead O/S
with tim wright
Bob 24/Sep/83 AltLd O/S
with S. Harry
RichardMc 28/Aug/83 AltLd O/S
with John Evans
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ??/1983 Lead
with Phillippa Mathews
nigehughes ?/Sep/82 AltLd
with Eric Joyce
Mike Owen 31/Jan/82 -
with Tim Bancroft, Phil Ralph
Hidden 07/Nov/81 AltLd
tapley 18/Oct/81 AltLd
with John Sumner
Hidden ?/Aug/81 Lead
Ken Taylor 15/Jun/81 AltLd
with Andy Chadwick
uphillnow ?/Jan/81 2nd
with Duncan Drake, Al Bennett
barny ??/1981 Lead O/S

Beautiful place, great climb. Wouldn't want to get into trouble on it, though.

with Mike Coussens
rogerskews 02/Nov/80 AltLd

We arrived below the top pitch quickly followed by (the !) Joe Brown and his american friends. With that audience we could not fail !

with Keith Jenkins
Hidden 04/Aug/80 Lead
Brian Wilderspin 15/Oct/78 AltLd
with Dave Winter
Hidden 03/Dec/77 Lead dnf
mike lawrence? 01/Aug/77 -
with Ian Millar
GeoffG 11/Jul/77 AltLd
with tony bowker
GeoffG ?/Jul/77 AltLd
with tony bowker
Hidden 03/Oct/76 Lead O/S
Bolt Phobia 17/Jan/76 AltLd
with Martyn Hurn
Marcus ??/1976 -
Mark Kemball 06/Apr/75 2nd
with Dave "Hamish" Wilkinson
petemeads ??/1975 Lead
Dave Musgrove 24/Aug/74 AltLd O/S
with Mike Butler
Andy Say ??/1974 Lead O/S
with Dave Marriott
granitbahn ??/1971 Lead
mikej 29/Mar/70 AltLd
with Pete Boardman
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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 57
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 58
Votes cast 59
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set