Mousetrap*** E2 5a
[Jack Geldard leading Mousetrap - E2 - Gogarth, 3 kb]

Rockfax Description
One of the most amazing routes at Gogarth. The climbing is involved, adventurous but never desperate, and the geology is simply marvellous. Start at the base of the zawn at the left-hand side of a cave.
1) 5a, 40m. Climb to the top of the groove, place a high wire, move back down and step out onto the wall. Now trend up and right against the grain of the rock to eventually arrive at a slab. Follow this across right to a stance.
2) 5a, 45m. Climb up onto the wall and traverse right to a diagonal line. Move up this and then round a fin of rock on the right to enter the next groove. Follow this up to where it turns into a long narrow slab, and continue to a thread belay at its top, below a steep tower.
3) 5a, 30m. An exciting finale! Move right into a niche, and gain a crack on the right, follow this up with difficulty to where it kinks left to a corner. Follow the corner up to where the angle eases. Climb easy ground up right and then back left to the top. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: Hard Rock, Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice, North Wales Rock Graded List, ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales, MIA logbook must haves!, Unusual and Interesting Routes You Must Do VS- E2, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, The Road to Shibboleth, Ultimate E2 ticklist, UK Lonely Leads, The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist, The Top 5 E2's in the UK?, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, 2015 Objectives.

Photo: Jack Geldard leading Mousetrap - E2 - Gogarth © Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor
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This climb is in 249 logbooks, and on 95 wishlists.

AMAZING! like climbing on the moon then top pitch of mars! hexes not essential. lots of slings tho, thought the top pitch was pretty tough for 4c unless went the wrong way. any 5a on all the pitches is very short lived tho. needs a confident leader, well done bren on the cheese chimney
JamesWilliams - AltLd O/S - 25/Sep/15 with bren

Led p3. Amazing rock - so weird to have hands and feet on totally different textures. My first route at Gogarth and loved it!
JenShelley - 2nd O/S - 20/Sep/15 with Mike

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 19/Sep/15

bizarre and terrifying
harry_lewis - AltLd O/S - 04/Sep/15 with Alex McCann

amccann - AltLd O/S - 04/Sep/15 with Harry Lewis

RonnydeWeerd - AltLd O/S - Sep/15 with Tom ten Voorde

Climbed p1-3, Roger climbed p2 which I thought was an awesome pitch, amazing climbing, Iv`e given all pitches 5a as I felt there was no 5b moves on the whole route
mr mills - AltLd O/S - 31/Aug/15 with Roger

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 31/Aug/15

Hidden - AltLd - 31/Aug/15

Brilliant. Enter the world of Wallace & Grommit Words can't describe what an superb and unusual experience.
Steve Crowe - AltLd O/S - 30/Aug/15 with KM

P1. Climbing is never too hard once you figure out which holds aren't going to fall off. On P3 the answer is that they will almost all fall off.
JRJones - AltLd O/S - 21/Aug/15 with chris

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 21/Aug/15

Nigel Bond - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/15 with Colin Hutton

Led p2. Great climb but scary and you wouldn't want to fall off!
spragglerocks - AltLd O/S - 15/Aug/15 with Misha

Been wanting to do it for ages and it didn't disappoint! What a crazy crag - Red Wall on steroids! Looks like a giant piece of layered cake turned sideways. 110m static got us down to the bottom with rope to spare but the ab line down a wet chimney covered with slimey moss towards the bottom was unpleasant. The line is devious but makes sense when you're one it. Can't even begin to imagine what the FA in '66 would have been like. There's a fair bit of easy trad shuffling but now and then it gets steep and you have to pull on the holds and you definitely need to check what you're pulling on! I thought every pitch was 5b. Fortunately the harder bits generally had some half decent gear not too far away but don't think you'd want to fall off on any of it! There wasn't much loose stuff but certainly a lot of soft stuff and bits that looked like they were waiting to come off but somehow didn't. I led the wandering P1 - needs lots of extenders. Rach did P2 and wasn't phased by the steep crumbling cheese and talc chimney. I finished off with P3, which was more solid due to the Red Wall style skin but you still had to be careful. An experience to remember! Never desperate but hard enough to make it thought provoking. Surprised most people have voted 5a - I thought there were some 5b moves on every pitch and I usually downgrade things, especially tottering sea cliffs!
Misha - AltLd O/S - 15/Aug/15 with Rach

Hidden - AltLd - 12/Aug/15

Pitch 1 and 3. Totally absorbing climbing.
David Kay - AltLd O/S - 12/Aug/15 with Richard Waltham

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 11/Aug/15

Beautiful sunny day. Brilliant memorable route. Hilarious cheese-like rock bands that just crumble if you happen rub it.....
renetemple - 2nd O/S - 11/Aug/15 with Kev Avery, Dave Sharpe

guy757 - 01/Aug/15 with Vic

Hidden - 2015

Hidden - 2015

phil64 - Lead - 2015

adie84 - 2015

greglad - 29/Nov/14

Amazing, still scary but fantastic, Watched by two seals and loads of tourists. Twice is enough now.
john morrissey - AltLd rpt - 04/Oct/14 with Dave Mann

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Sep/14

Hot and sunny Mike led first pitch,i got 2nd and Mike led last 2.Felt serious on all pitches,as you wonder if any of the gear will stay in.Belays are solid thank god!!Top pitch is well protected and on better rock,originaly graded HVS.4C 4C 4B 5A (I DONT THINK S) more like E2 5B.
johnwarburton - AltLd - 22/Sep/14 with Mike Hartley

lead pitch 1 then Ron lead pitch 2 .arrived at the belay only to realise to my dismay that I had left the rope bag at the last belay lol . had to downclimb and back up again .lead up pitch 3 in the sun .great route .We also used a 60m rope to ab in from the usual huge block and scrambled down ,but would not recommend if the grass is damp.
jimxxx - AltLd O/S - 13/Sep/14

Fun in the sun. Another classic Gogarth Day.
Dave Almond - AltLd - 07/Sep/14 with Nicole Almond

Very hot, super climb on very interesting rock, really enjoyed it.
Nicole Almond - 2nd - 06/Sep/14 with Dad

Wow. Let team go ahead of us so can't claim the insight though ended up doing crux different way. Jurgen played the its your lead card so got 1st and 3rd pitch. Amazing and unique route and rock
freemanTom - AltLd β - 06/Sep/14 with Jurgen

duncandarnell - AltLd O/S - 26/Aug/14

Daniel Duerden - AltLd - 23/Aug/14

Just did the first, best, pitch then went onto Mantrap
PaulTanton - AltLd rpt - 17/Aug/14 with Connor Shepherd

Martin Haworth - AltLd rpt - 09/Aug/14 with John Brannock

Like climbing the back of stegosaurus, the essential British sea cliff experience? Committing, more than a bit scary but nowhere near as hard as it looks. Brilliant, brilliant route.
Brannock - AltLd O/S - 09/Aug/14

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/14 with julie carroll

Julie Carroll - 2nd O/S - 08/Aug/14 with Dan Gibson

Frank the Husky - 2014

Nick Biven - 2014

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

Allanfairfechan - 2014

Hidden - 2014

Adventure climbing at its best.
dave mann - AltLd O/S - 2014

James Thacker - 2014

Hidden - 2014

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Oct/13

Quartz chimney section on 1st pitch can only be V diff climbing in the most impressive of positions. 1st pitch is quite possibly one of the best pitches i have ever climbed
Glenn Sutcliffe - AltLd O/S - 09/Oct/13 with Pete Cresswell

P1 and p3
Andrew Wilson - AltLd O/S - 05/Oct/13 with jon stewart

Luke Brooks - AltLd O/S - Sep/13 with Konrad Doyle

Hidden - AltLd - Sep/13

Amazing atmospheric route, what terrain! Totally absorbing. Led 1st & 3rd. All technically easy and enough gear too, you just wouldn't particularly like to test any of it.
Just Another Dave - AltLd O/S - 28/Aug/13 with Jo Bertalot

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Aug/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 10/Aug/13

Hidden - Apr/13

andybirtwistle - 2013

Tony Kartawick - 2013

1st and 3rd.
Ewan Russell - AltLd O/S - 13/Oct/12 with gwen

Hidden - 2nd - 09/Oct/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Sep/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Sep/12

with mike brownlow, led middle pitch. phenomenol, what a place
alasdair19 - 01/Sep/12

Superb route! Waited about 30 years to do it.
Gezzer - 2nd - 13/Aug/12 with Val Partington, Steve Burns

Hidden - AltLd - 13/Aug/12

Martin Haworth - AltLd rpt - 10/Aug/12 with Andy

Have waited 10 years to do this and I wasn't disappointed. The first pitch is surreal.Led 2nd pitch.
Andrew Sloan - AltLd O/S - 10/Aug/12 with Martin Haworth

Captain Gear - 2012

Hidden - 2012

Stewart Armstrong - 2012

Tony Kartawick - 2012

matt perks - 2012

Hidden - 2012

We just needed a touch of snow and would have been full on winter climbing. Awesome terrain.
Adam Booth - AltLd O/S - 03/Dec/11 with Ed Booth

Lead p1+3. Big abseil.
Ed Booth - AltLd O/S - 03/Dec/11 with Adam Booth

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 21/Oct/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Sep/11

Drew M - 21/Sep/11 with Ed Feldman

Came up from Bristol for the weekend to specifically do this route, 31 years after 1st setting eyes on it from across the zawn. Had to wait for the rain to stop before eventually climbing in brilliant afternoon sunshine. A fantasic adventure and a real test of nerve despite not being technically difficult - not one to do fresh from the climbing wall. Great to have done such a real classic - thanks Mike.
KRB - AltLd O/S - 18/Sep/11 with Mike Bridges

Came up for the weekend with Kev especially to do Mousetrap.(it had been 31 yrs since we decided we'd be back another day!)Finally got on it on Sunday afternoon after waiting for the rain to subside.Made the long ab into the zawn and left the rope in place.Turned very hot and sunny & could have done with taking a drink.Kev led pitches 1 & 3, I led 2.Very very impressive climb!most unusual rock.Great care is needed from both leader and second.This is one climb you don't want to fall off on! Great route,worth every star.
mike bridges - AltLd O/S - 18/Sep/11 with Kevin Bridges

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Aug/11

no birdshit.
dan ely - AltLd - 15/Aug/11 with terry

Slightly intense but an enjoyable romp non-the-less!
Si - AltLd - 09/Aug/11

Led Pitch 1 + 3. Bit more tricky than I was expecting.
owain86 - AltLd O/S - 04/Aug/11 with Chris

Had the second pitch. Bold and exciting with snappy footholds...a gogarth classic!
chriscarroll - AltLd O/S - 04/Aug/11 with Owain

Hidden - AltLd - 2011

Hidden - 2011

JEP - 2011

Rory Shaw - 2011

Hidden - 2011

PAJames - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

pasbury - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Pete Graham - AltLd O/S - 08/Nov/10 with Malcolm Scott

Lenny - 2nd O/S - 12/Oct/10 with Steve

Dave Thompson - AltLd O/S - 04/Sep/10 with Thomas Martin

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Aug/10

Most bizarre rock I've ever climbed on. A great adventure.
gforce - Lead - 17/Aug/10 with Kath

Brilliant route!
Neil Adams - AltLd O/S - 15/Aug/10 with Andy N

Hidden - 15/Aug/10

Tom got a psyche on so led p1&3. Top two pitches quite enjoyable, but belaying p1 was harrowing... More of the grey talcum powder rock than on Red Wall - easier but more serious.
AJM - AltLd O/S - 14/Aug/10 with Tom Lambert

Cliff was fine with loads of gear but not loose rock and marginal gear like Mousetrap. Fantastic situation though. 1st people to do after bird ban lifted.
Skinny Kin - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/10 with Cliff Shasby

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Aug/10

Hidden - 2010

Hidden - 2010

I led 2nd pitch, loose rock, sandy rock with no real gear for last 20m of pitch well u cud put real crap slings over the quartz extrusions but i doubt they do much or stay on!
Duncan Campbell - AltLd O/S - 09/Nov/09 with Burgerking!

Hidden - AltLd - 09/Nov/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/Oct/09

HeatherF - AltLd O/S - 14/Oct/09 with Tom R

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 10/Oct/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 10/Oct/09

lukehunt - AltLd O/S - 10/Oct/09 with manker, Bl@ckhawkjac

Led the bottom (crux) Pitch. proper ace route and pretty solid.
Franco Cookson OLD - AltLd O/S - 10/Oct/09 with Luke Hunt

Lead P2. Exciting but not hard climbing. Amazing belays that give you plenty of time to take it all in.
Dave Foster - AltLd O/S - 21/Aug/09 with Andy

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Aug/09

VERY windy! Got wet getting to the bottom of the route. Led first pitch - great! tricky move out of first chimney. Top pitch - wall was very very windy - a battle - but great!
sinbad - AltLd O/S - 18/Aug/09 with Mike Raine

Hidden - AltLd - 18/Aug/09

Classic route, first two pitches are fairly exciting but not hard technically, top pitch is excellent on good rock. Funky rock formations....
Chad123 - AltLd O/S - 06/Aug/09 with Sam and Jo

sgl - AltLd O/S - 06/Aug/09 with chad and mallard

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Aug/09

Hidden - Aug/09

Hidden - AltLd - Aug/09

Hidden - AltLd - Aug/09

Seymore Butt - 2009

Hidden - 2009

Hidden - AltLd - Sep/08

adi bryant - AltLd dnf - 15/Aug/08 with Lee

Amazing route. Less scary and loose than expected with interesting climbing on every pitch. A surprisingly amenable trip through some awesome terrain. Led pitches 1 and 3.
climbingpixie - AltLd O/S - 02/Aug/08 with Andy Hobson

gjd - AltLd - 25/May/08 with Ronnie

Al Evans - 2008

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2008

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2008

Marcus - 2008

chris fox - AltLd - Nov/07

Loose and sandy in places but an amazing climb despite this, the top pitch feels a bit harder than the first which is apparently 5b...
smallerrich - AltLd - 24/Oct/07

Owain Llewelyn - Lead - 07/Oct/07 with Dad

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/Oct/07

Hidden - AltLd - Oct/07

frost - AltLd - Sep/07 with D Garry

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 13/Aug/07

Silvi Fritzpatric and Glenda Huxter
Rich Mayfield - AltLd - 13/Aug/07 with Mark Stevenson

red1200 - AltLd O/S - Aug/07

smollett - AltLd - Aug/07 with Francis blunt

richiebongo - AltLd O/S - 2007 with Michael Rawlinson

centurion05 - AltLd O/S - 2007 with chris thorne

mux - AltLd O/S - 2007 with Simon Frost

tumbling wizard - 2007

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 11/Sep/06

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 10/Sep/06

jim robertson - 2006

Ian McNeill - 2006

Mark Reeves - 2006

Hidden - 2006

Ian McNeill - 2006

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Oct/05

chrishedgehog - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/05 with Clare Wilkie

One of the best routes of its grade in the UK. The climbing and route finding isn't that easy either, so not one to underestimate.
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - AltLd O/S - 18/Sep/05 with Dave Ferguson

Hidden - AltLd - Sep/05

david morse - AltLd O/S - Sep/05 with chris todd

TimJM - AltLd O/S - Sep/05 with Dave Reynolds

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Sep/05

datoon - AltLd O/S - 14/Aug/05 with RT

Phill Mitch - Lead O/S - 2005 with john d

Hidden - AltLd - 2005

Davros the Psyched - AltLd O/S - 2005

Mark Riley - Lead O/S - Oct/04 with Tod Emerson

michael burrows - 2nd - 08/Sep/04 with nicholas Barrowclough

Hidden - AltLd - 07/Aug/04

nicholas Barrowclough - Lead - Aug/04

Hidden - AltLd - 2004

haydng - AltLd O/S - 2004 with Sam, Will

lukea - Lead O/S - 18/Nov/03 with Al

Beautiful day for it.
DubyaJamesDubya - AltLd O/S - 23/Aug/03 with Paul Collis

Fun - but will never repeat (due to poor gear)!
Simonfarfaraway - AltLd - 2003 with Steve Hastings

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2002

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/01

nige - Lead - Apr/00 with mark hounslea

Weekend with SC - he was ill on the day so did it with his mate ? Bold but steady, pegs just stains. Tried this route in 1982 - got lost, scared, and retreated in terror!
philhilo - Lead O/S - 2000

tuftynick - Lead - 2000

zero six - Lead O/S - 2000

Hamish Leslie - AltLd O/S - 1999 with Martin Barclay

Rich Kirby - AltLd O/S - 01/Aug/98 with Paul Tanton

ArnaudG - Aug/98 with Gunter

ian caton - Lead O/S - Aug/98 with Matt

ColdAndWet - AltLd - 1998 with Matt Telfer

sadams - AltLd - 27/Sep/97 with Hugh Cottom

phardman - 20/Jul/97

Dave Musgrove Jnr - 2nd - 27/Sep/96 with Jamie Fisher, Muir Morton

GuyM - AltLd - Aug/96 with will

WB - AltLd O/S - Jul/96 with Guy

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 1996

phardman - AltLd - 09/Sep/95 with Jon Bibby

led p1 &3. Given E2,5b (p1) at the time (CC Guide 1990)
Pete Nugent - AltLd - 31/Aug/95 with John Bennison

Ched - Lead O/S - 1995 with Glanfor

NeilGriffiths - Lead - 1994 with Duncs

Hidden - Lead - 04/Aug/92

Hidden - AltLd - 1992

jcw - 1992 with Simon Donowho

I led the second pitch
Tony Little - AltLd O/S - 09/Nov/91 with Guy Maddox

whispering nic - AltLd - 03/Sep/91 with Graham Iles

mark-abz - Lead - 25/Aug/91 with Andy W

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/91

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Sep/90

Hidden - AltLd - Aug/90

Dave Rumney - 1990

Hidden - 1990

andy gittins - 1990

Steve Lenartowicz - 1990

johno072 - Lead - 1990

led 1st and 3rd pitches
michael burrows - AltLd O/S - 26/Jul/89 with steve ward

With Pete Corbishley
steveboote - Lead - 1988 with Pete Corbishley

Hidden - AltLd - 01/Nov/87

MikeYouCanClimb - 14/Sep/86 with Dave Dowson

wynaptomos - AltLd O/S - Jul/86

William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1986 with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc

Hidden - AltLd - 1986

Hidden - AltLd - 17/Aug/85

2,L,2. Again 25/10/1997 with Mark L,2,L.
charlesmfrench - AltLd O/S - 12/Aug/84 with Alan Bennett

Martin Haworth - Lead O/S - 1984 with tim wright

Bob - AltLd O/S - 24/Sep/83 with S. Harry

RichardMc - AltLd O/S - 28/Aug/83 with John Evans

Paula Hamilton-Gibson - Lead - 1983 with Phillippa Mathews

nigehughes - AltLd - Sep/82 with Eric Joyce

Mike Owen - 31/Jan/82 with Tim Bancroft, Phil Ralph

Hidden - AltLd - 07/Nov/81

tapley - AltLd - 18/Oct/81 with John Sumner

Hidden - Lead - Aug/81

Ken Taylor - AltLd - 15/Jun/81 with Andy Chadwick

uphillnow - 2nd - Jan/81 with Duncan Drake, Al Bennett

Beautiful place, great climb. Wouldn't want to get into trouble on it, though.
barny - Lead O/S - 1981 with Mike Coussens

We arrived below the top pitch quickly followed by (the !) Joe Brown and his american friends. With that audience we could not fail !
rogerskews - AltLd - 02/Nov/80 with Keith Jenkins

Hidden - Lead - 04/Aug/80

Brian Wilderspin - AltLd - 15/Oct/78 with Dave Winter

Hidden - Lead dnf - 03/Dec/77

mike lawrence? - 01/Aug/77 with Ian Millar

GeoffG - AltLd - 11/Jul/77 with tony bowker

GeoffG - AltLd - Jul/77 with tony bowker

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Oct/76

Bolt Phobia - AltLd - 17/Jan/76 with Martyn Hurn

Marcus - 1976

Mark Kemball - 2nd - 06/Apr/75 with Dave "Hamish" Wilkinson

petemeads - Lead - 1975

Dave Musgrove - AltLd O/S - 24/Aug/74 with Mike Butler

Andy Say - Lead O/S - 1974 with Dave Marriott

granitbahn - Lead - 1971

mikej - AltLd - 29/Mar/70 with Pete Boardman

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Total votes cast 171
hard E30 of 56
E30 of 56
easy E30 of 56
hard E24 of 56
E241 of 56
easy E25 of 56
hard E14 of 56
E12 of 56
easy E10 of 56
hard 5b0 of 57
5b5 of 57
easy 5b8 of 57
hard 5a12 of 57
5a31 of 57
easy 5a0 of 57
hard 4c1 of 57
4c0 of 57
easy 4c0 of 57
3 Stars54 of 58
2 Stars4 of 58
1 Star0 of 58
0 Stars0 of 58
Bag of .....0 of 58
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat