Staffordshire > Beeston Tor (Manifold Valley) >
 
The Thorn*** HVS 5a

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[Beeston Recce, 5 kb]48m, 2 pitches. One of the Peak's best limestone climbs and the classic of the crag. A superb central line, with a well-positioned crux. A pull on the peg of the crucial bulge lowers the grade to a solid VS. 1) 4b, 28m. From the ever-dry cave, climb the slabby right wall, right then left into the main groove, before easier climbing leads to threads (chains) under the huge overhangs. 2) 5a, 20m. Move out left and climb the short juggy rib to the bulges (several old pegs). Pull rapidly over to easier-angled ground in the groove above, continue to a belay in the big holly. © ROCKFAX
FA. Joe Brown Ron Mosley (some aid) 1954

Ticklists: Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett, Rockfax Peak Limestone Top 50, Classic Peak Limestone Trad - VDiff to E2, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, The Peak: past and Present.

Photo: Beeston Recce © Danzig
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 263 logbooks, and on 22 wishlists.

Ian started second pitch but his knee went on the crux. I led up with 1 pt aid
kez1 - Lead dog - 19/May/13 with ian clare

keith leonard - AltLd - 08/May/13

Julesthe1st - AltLd O/S - 06/May/13 with Mike

P1
ashtond6 - Lead O/S - 04/May/13

Felt much easier than 7 years ago...:)
Si dH - 2nd rpt - 14/Apr/13 with Alison Ingleby

Just p1, but great aspect.
mr_drains - Lead O/S - 13/Apr/13 with Rookey

Hidden - AltLd - 07/Apr/13

Dizz - AltLd - 02/Mar/13 with Dale

HB1 - 2nd rpt - 28/Feb/13 with KB

Hidden - 2013

jonny357 - AltLd O/S - 13/Oct/12 with Justin Barker

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/Sep/12

Jake Young - AltLd O/S - 15/Sep/12 with Mark R

mark20 - AltLd O/S - 15/Sep/12

A wonderful route. The moves through the bulge are great.
James Oswald - Lead O/S - 10/Sep/12 with Fred

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 10/Sep/12

lead second pitch, good position.
catblack - AltLd O/S - 06/Sep/12 with Andy Barker

Lead pitch 1. Overrated.
r fizzle - AltLd O/S - 18/Aug/12 with Olli Crudge, Chi Huo Cheng

Lead P2 the delights are short lived, the tat wasn't that good which made it a little worrying but the bulge was short and easy once commited.
Olli-C - AltLd O/S - 18/Aug/12 with Rachel Slater, chi

2nd both pitches, a little overrated. Give it 2 stars at the most
Chi Cheng - 2nd O/S - 18/Aug/12 with Olli Crudge, Rachel Stater

mary - 2nd dog - 12/Aug/12 with Dale Gautrey

Lead P1
sopaz - Lead - 11/Aug/12

admackie - AltLd - 11/Aug/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/12

jjclarke70 - 2nd - 27/Jun/12 with justin barker

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 20/Jun/12

Lead pitch 1.
phardman - AltLd rpt - 12/May/12 with Guy Maddox

Hidden - AltLd - 12/May/12

Led 2nd pitch. Nice route up to holly tree belay.
Mike Hegarty - AltLd O/S - 01/Apr/12 with Dave

markalmack - 2nd O/S - 25/Mar/12 with tim marjot

tlmarjot - Lead O/S - 25/Mar/12 with Mark Almack

MDowson - AltLd O/S - 11/Mar/12 with sam webb

bigdrew - Lead O/S - 11/Mar/12 with Ian Milward

Tony Kartawick - 2012

Led p1
cem - AltLd rpt - 18/Dec/11 with Kirill Spiridonov, Natalia Male Alcalde

led p2
Kirill - AltLd O/S - 18/Dec/11 with Natalia Male Alcalde, Charles Moreton

Main crux on the Thorn cleared after second attempt.
Ronan72 - 2nd RP - 26/Nov/11 with Jiefei Ma,Oliver Wintram

DannyK - AltLd O/S - 12/Nov/11 with pep

herrettscott - 2nd O/S - 12/Nov/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/Sep/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/Sep/11

Pete Randall - AltLd O/S - 24/Sep/11 with Albie

I led pitch 2
tmawer - AltLd O/S - 14/Aug/11 with Jaime Robertson

led the access pitch as access to pocket symphony the P2 as an exit frm the cave.
petellis - 2nd O/S - 06/Aug/11 with Sloth

Martin Haworth - AltLd O/S - 14/Jul/11 with Andy

Led top pitch, steep and intimidating. Super route.
Andrew Sloan - AltLd O/S - 14/Jul/11

sgl0jd - 14/Jul/11

Somerset swede basher - AltLd O/S - 02/Jul/11 with George Taylor

madasten - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/11 with Miquel

fun, exposed 2nd pitch was cool
al123 - 2nd O/S - 02/Jun/11 with hannes

Hannes B - AltLd O/S - 02/Jun/11 with Emlyn, Phil

after the crux, I led the final pitch of Beeston Eliminate (did other pitches earlier in the day) making an excellent combination.
Graeme Hammond - 2nd rpt - 21/May/11 with john Bramwell

Wimped out of leading p2 - a tough night last night. However, the famed "Beeston Tor effect" held true, dry & sheltered when damp, windy & miserable everywhere else!!
Pete Nugent - 2nd rpt - 16/May/11 with Will Pettet Smith

w.pettet-smith - Lead - 16/May/11 with pete nugent

thomasadixon - 2nd rpt - 24/Apr/11 with Becca

Led pitch 2 - just brilliant! Unforgettable crux moves in a fantastic position!
BeccaSnowden - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/11 with Tom

Led P1, P2 amazing.
odox - AltLd O/S - 16/Apr/11 with Tom Pitchforth

Chriswallis2 - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/11 with Anna

WB - AltLd O/S - 27/Mar/11 with Guy

did the easy bit to the cave S 4a really
augustus trout - AltLd O/S - 26/Mar/11 with Carolyn Mills

Done as one megapitch
GrantB - 2nd - 25/Mar/11 with El Bailos

Brannock - Lead β - 20/Mar/11

Hidden - 2nd β - 12/Mar/11

GF - AltLd - Mar/11

adie84 - 2011

Hidden - 2011


lukas richardo - AltLd rpt - 06/Nov/10 with prav

hung around too long at the crux and couldn't handle the pump. pathetic performance.
lukas richardo - AltLd dog - 30/Oct/10

Very good, moved through the crux quickly to prevent getting to tired.
jayrenegade - AltLd O/S - 30/Oct/10 with Dale, Luke

Lead the first pitch clean and got scared and backed off on the 2nd pitch, bold! Lost a black cam, if found please give me shout!
shafman - Lead - 21/Sep/10 with tomentalist, saul, ciaran1999, szelest

ciaran1999 - AltLd O/S - 21/Sep/10 with kasha, shafman, saul

both pitches
gregoritos - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/10

Bart Shaw - AltLd O/S - 04/Sep/10 with Dunc

decs - AltLd - 04/Sep/10 with Bart

wolverine - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/10 with James Graham

Bex_M - AltLd - 25/Jul/10 with Duncan Dunbar

p2
PanzerHanzler - AltLd O/S - 01/Jul/10 with Guy

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/10

chrisbussell - 2nd - 22/Jun/10 with Tim O'Neill

rikbattye - Lead rpt - 22/Jun/10

just the second pitch
szelest - 2nd dog - 22/Jun/10

lead 1st pitch
Oliver Houston - AltLd O/S - 18/Jun/10

Lead second pitch, awesome route...best in Peak? Probably!
thomasadixon - AltLd O/S - 18/Jun/10 with Ollie Houston

Hidden - Lead β - 16/Jun/10

(both pitches) F**KING FANTASTIC!!!!
Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 30/May/10 with Pete aka Dad

Hidden - 2nd dog - 22/May/10

Nigel Bond - Lead dnf - 16/May/10 with Stuart Bond

Sarah Brookes - 2nd O/S - 16/May/10 with terry

magic.
Milne - Lead rpt - 16/May/10 with sarah.

Brannock - AltLd dog - 09/May/10 with Annette

Hidden - AltLd - 09/May/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 03/May/10

led both pitches, first pitch was pretty rubbish, although there was a lot of dust around, so if it was clean, it might be nicer. And the 2nd pitch is really good although the crux section is a bit of a clip up.
Dan Lane - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/10 with Dad

Julian Lane - 2nd dog - 24/Apr/10 with Dan

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Apr/10

MarekM - Lead - 2010

GF - 2010

Hidden - Lead - 2010

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 10/Dec/09

Helen Gibson - Lead O/S - 25/Oct/09 with Richard

led pitch 1
dave_rose - AltLd O/S - 18/Oct/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Oct/09

Pulled on peg to get through the crux
asmith37 - 2nd dog - 18/Oct/09 with Matt Todd, Dave Rose

Dan led 1st pitch, I led 2nd
Lewis Stewart - AltLd O/S - 27/Sep/09 with Dan

Bevs23 - 2nd - 16/Sep/09

Picking up some Beta for 2010.
Danzig - Solo dnf - 15/Sep/09 with Rich Ogden

igneouscarl - 2nd - 13/Sep/09 with Tom Stahl, Robert Jones

Climbed second pitch, was over a little quick!
richardhopton - AltLd O/S - 11/Sep/09 with Martin Cleaver

Martin Cleaver - AltLd - 11/Sep/09 with Richard Hopton

Dave Mason - AltLd O/S - 07/Sep/09 with Adam Gill

Led P2. A bit disappointing as the interesting section is quite short, still worth a couple of stars though. Didn't use in situ gear but looked okish.
Misha - Lead O/S - 06/Sep/09

Hidden - 2nd - 31/Aug/09

My fifth lead, second outing on limestone. had 8 metre winger on first pitch for I went off route to the 4c line, had to leave it after that.
Glennjoe - Lead dnf - 29/Aug/09

Seconded the first pitch however it was the 4c line as our leader went onto a different route. So i had to clear the gear after he took an 8m fall.
nathanroberts89 - 2nd dnf - 29/Aug/09 with glenn

My first fall on lead, went off to 4c line at start and fell 8m. only my second outing on lime.
Double Knee Bar - Lead dnf - 29/Aug/09

Was being pathetic and held on to peg, but didn't use it to pull through. Fantastic positions on second pitch though!
Byronius Maximus - AltLd dog - 02/Aug/09 with Alex Twist

P2, nice route with good moves and bomber gear on good holds.
Twisty - AltLd O/S - 02/Aug/09 with Byron Buck

Compo - Lead O/S - 30/Jul/09 with Kev Faux

spacey - AltLd O/S - 04/Jul/09 with Tom

Mark Dennison - Lead - 17/Jun/09

I lead the second pitch which was the best by far
Stone Rooster - AltLd O/S - 15/Jun/09 with kim Hayward

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Jun/09

will6459 - AltLd O/S - 02/Jun/09 with Andy Hext

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Jun/09

skittles - AltLd O/S - 02/Jun/09 with Jonathan Vardy

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/May/09

Led P2. Rested on gear before crux..intimidating moves over the bulge.
Jim Slater - AltLd dog - 30/May/09 with Al Smith

Dave Rumney - 26/Apr/09

SGD - AltLd O/S - 22/Mar/09 with Rob Gray

rob1 - AltLd O/S - 22/Mar/09 with Stu Day

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 21/Mar/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 21/Mar/09

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 20/Mar/09

magnificent route, led both pitches. crux is stiff/powerful at 5a, but quality climbing in a wild position. keeps coming after the bulge. 1st pitch is probably only VS, but no walk over.
Milne - Lead O/S - 19/Mar/09 with john chambers

juza - Lead - 14/Mar/09

simonp - Lead O/S - Mar/09 with Kevin Bradbury

Hidden - 2nd - 11/Jan/09

Chris M - 2009

metal arms - Lead O/S - 22/Nov/08

danm - AltLd - 20/Sep/08 with Sion

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 19/Sep/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Sep/08

Different Steve - 2nd rpt - 25/Aug/08 with Karen Roberts & Guy Reid

P1 only, in the dark to retrieve gear from ivy gash.
Stig - Lead rpt - 08/Aug/08 with Charlie Reade-Jahn

Lead in one pitch.
masa-alpin - Lead O/S - 07/Aug/08 with Gemma F

Fantastic position and seems really out there whilst being really do-able with a determined side pull...
trekkie - Lead rpt - Aug/08 with Steve

Andy Fielding - AltLd - 22/Jun/08 with Mike Gilbert

smudge - AltLd O/S - 13/Jun/08 with Phil

Me 1st pitch - dan 2nd
Phil1967 - AltLd - 13/Jun/08 with Dan

thebigfriendlymoose - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/08 with Stephen

nice climbing in a nice position
mark s - Lead O/S - 10/May/08 with andi turner ,pete harris

Messed around on attempt to lead crux pitch, then backed off from the peg, was fine on the second
Sankey - 2nd - 10/May/08 with Luke

stemill - 2nd O/S - 03/May/08 with Mark

Diggler - Lead O/S - May/08

gripped01 - Apr/08 with Jim Jarvis

Tommy G - Lead O/S - 08/Mar/08 with Dad

daveagriff - 2nd - 2008

Silum - Lead O/S - 2008 with Tom and Dan

Hidden - 2008

sdht - 2008 with Jill

Brown - AltLd O/S - 15/Sep/07 with Max

colin milton - AltLd - 06/Jun/07 with pep

Hidden - Lead - Jun/07

3rd time lucky on crux move
EdShep - 2nd O/S - 17/May/07 with Pilch

Didn't find crux too hard, once sorted out gear, good rest, then fairly steady to top.
Pilch - Lead O/S - 12/May/07 with Ed

Phil led the second pitch
Brian Rodgers - AltLd O/S - 03/May/07 with Phil Leng

Lead 2nd pitch, excellent.
philhilo - AltLd O/S - 03/May/07 with brian rodgers

Owen W-G - Lead O/S - 14/Apr/07 with Duncan

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 03/Feb/07

Completely differant to how I remember it - posibly cos I could see it this time. Fantastic exposure. Again only did top pitch
Chris the Tall - Lead rpt - 05/Nov/06 with Jamie V

We did this (top pitch) as a great finale to the day - what a fantastic pitch - got to be one of the best limestone HVSs.
jamiev - 2nd O/S - 05/Nov/06 with Chris the Tall

Led pitch 1. Pitch 2 crux felt very hard for 5a.
Si dH - AltLd O/S - 13/Oct/06 with Neil Furniss

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Sep/06

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Aug/06

steve did the first pitch leaving me with the spectacular step across the void, and then the goey climbing through the roof 3* in anyones money.
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/06 with Steve Ramsden

Belier - AltLd O/S - 07/Aug/06 with Alex Mason

Hidden - Lead - 13/Jul/06

Gustav - Lead O/S - Jul/06 with Neil

neilh - Lead - 10/May/06

Hidden - 2nd - 29/Apr/06

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Feb/06

Benjones45_99 - AltLd O/S - 2006 with Sam Cookson

Hidden - 2nd - 11/Dec/05

Chesh - AltLd O/S - Sep/05 with Paul Lestor

Budge - AltLd O/S - 28/Jul/05 with Neil Botterill, Dave Valentine-Hagart

Stig - 2nd O/S - 23/Jul/05 with Jonathan Teale

Hidden - Lead - 02/Apr/05

Wayne S - Lead - 2005 with Jon Croxford

chrishedgehog - Lead O/S - 25/Jan/04 with Erwin Bottomley

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Mar/03

JohnHutch - 2nd - 2003 with L

Led top pitch - it's out there on the crux!
Different Steve - AltLd O/S - Aug/02 with Mervyn Lamacraft

The Pylon King - Lead O/S - May/02 with Fiend

CrashMat Rob - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/01 with Nicky

skygodley - Lead O/S - 17/Feb/01

Dave Bond - Lead O/S - 2001 with charles

cem - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/00 with James Gregory

tuftynick - Lead - 2000

marcoleptic - Lead O/S - 2000

craig h - AltLd O/S - 20/Apr/99 with Nez

1st pitch only
richard31 - 2nd O/S - 27/Mar/99 with Rich Hewitt

Marti999 - Lead O/S - Jun/97 with larry

Phill Mitch - Lead O/S - 1997 with gaz

I led 1st pitch Ivan second superb top pitch!
wadey1973 - AltLd - 09/Jun/96 with Ivan Green

AlanLittle - Lead - May/96 with Robert Clark

Tim Bateman - Lead - 31/Mar/96 with Chris Walsh

Hidden - Lead - 10/Dec/95

lead p2
colin milton - AltLd - 12/May/95

Daniel Wrightson - AltLd O/S - 27/Nov/94 with Dave

Hidden - Lead - 18/Sep/93

leathers - Lead O/S - 25/Mar/93 with Martin Vimpany

Roget - AltLd rpt - 20/Feb/93

Backinthegame - Lead rpt - 06/Feb/93

Ernie led the first pitch
Chris Ellis - AltLd O/S - 31/May/92 with Ernie Horrocks

Andy Say - Lead O/S - 01/Mar/92

rob.grafton - 2nd - 17/Feb/92 with Bruce

Roget - AltLd O/S - 25/Jan/92 with JT

Hidden - Lead - 06/Oct/91

tlr - AltLd - 03/Aug/91 with Cal

mark-abz - Lead - 02/Sep/90 with Simon K

Backinthegame - Lead O/S - Aug/90 with Andrew Hall

NickJH - Lead - Apr/90 with D Picker, J Airey, I Smith, D Townsend

tlr - AltLd - 03/Mar/90 with Nick

Ghastly Rubberfeet - Lead - 1990 with Duncan Martin

andrew300169 - Lead O/S - 1990

Nick Rundall - Lead O/S - 1990

bullybones - 1990

Gordon Stainforth - Lead O/S - 02/Jul/88 with Fliss Butler

Hidden - 2nd - 07/May/88

BigHairyIan - Lead O/S - 17/Apr/88 with Claire Redman

Pete Pozman - 2nd O/S - 07/Apr/88 with Mark Gray

Hidden - 2nd - 19/Apr/87

surfbish - Lead O/S - Mar/87

Top pitch only, done in the dark
Chris the Tall - 2nd - Oct/86 with Richard O'Meara

Hidden - Lead - 17/Jul/86

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 1986

Hidden - 2nd - 14/Sep/85

Strenuous crux moves around overhang. Not a sustained climb.
eroica64 - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/85

Hidden - AltLd - 19/Apr/85

Hidden - AltLd - 19/Apr/85

shark - AltLd O/S - 06/Mar/85 with Steve Senior

Ian Clare - 1985

malc - Lead dog - 19/Apr/84

Hidden - Lead - 24/Apr/83

L,2. S,L on 28-4-85.
charlesmfrench - AltLd O/S - 17/Mar/83

COLD
David Smith - Lead - 20/Jan/83 with Andrew (Pog) Horn

Gezzer - Lead O/S - 1983 with Andy Towne

Hidden - Lead - 1983

Hidden - 2nd - 15/Sep/82

Seconded the previous month
Andy Stephenson - Lead - 13/Jun/82

babymoac - Lead - 25/Jul/81 with MTW

Sean Kelly - 1980

robinsi197 - 1980 with Barbara

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/79

Mark Kemball - Lead - 25/Feb/79 with Sarah Bridge

Hidden - AltLd - 07/May/78

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/77

Bolt Phobia - AltLd - 07/Mar/76 with Martyn Hurn

rogerskews - AltLd - 1976 with Martin Coward

Nigel Bond - Lead - 25/Oct/75 with John Derbyshire

Nigel Bond - AltLd - 27/Apr/74

Rog Wilko - Lead - Oct/71 with Debbie Wilkinson

Dave Musgrove - AltLd - 12/Oct/68 with Bob Knapton

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
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Voting
Total votes cast 199
hard E10 of 69
E10 of 69
easy E11 of 69
hard HVS3 of 69
HVS53 of 69
easy HVS12 of 69
hard VS0 of 69
VS0 of 69
easy VS0 of 69
hard 5b0 of 66
5b0 of 66
easy 5b10 of 66
hard 5a18 of 66
5a37 of 66
easy 5a1 of 66
hard 4c0 of 66
4c0 of 66
easy 4c0 of 66
3 Stars38 of 64
2 Stars18 of 64
1 Star7 of 64
0 Stars1 of 64
Bag of .....0 of 64
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Style of ascent

Soloed1 of 263 (0.4%)
Lead98 of 263 (37.3%)
Followed44 of 263 (16.7%)
Alt Leads105 of 263 (39.9%)
Unknown15 of 263 (5.7%)

'Climbed'88 of 263 (33.5%)
clean O/S137 of 263 (52.1%)
clean β3 of 263 (1.1%)
clean rpt18 of 263 (6.8%)
clean RP1 of 263 (0.4%)
dogged11 of 263 (4.2%)
dnf5 of 263 (1.9%)