38m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
From the ledge, head left to a diagonal break/crack then climb direct up the excellent pocketed wall (threadable surprises aplenty) to pass right of the ivy and escape into the Ivy Gash. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
1) 4c, 18m. Move right along the ledge of Nocturne to a stance.
2) 5b, 20m. Head left to a diagonal break/crack then climb direct up the excellent pocketed wall (surprises a-plenty) to pass right of the ivy and escape into The Ivy Gash.

FA. Dave Jones R.Cope 1978

Ticklists: The Peak: past and Present, Peak Rock/13/The Limestone Revolution, Ultimate E1 ticklist, MUMC Ticklist.

DubyaJamesDubya 22/Nov Lead rpt

Superb (as ever)

with Phil Blaen
the power 15/Oct 2nd

Ooooooooooooo lovely

with rob
dr_botnik 15/Oct Lead rpt

Cool. Felt on good form today, read moves well and didn't faff when there wasn't a stance just climbed. Despite having a cold, felt like summer.

PeteWilson 25/Sep Lead O/S

in the middle of the thorn, cool route would be great if it was a bit longer!

with Dave
islandlynx 06/Sep 2nd
Matt77 06/Sep Lead O/S
with Alex Horton, Tom Riddelsdell, Shane
BTphonehome 07/Aug Lead rpt
with Kasha
kasha_gregson 07/Aug 2nd
with Bram
Hidden 18/Jul AltLd O/S
Graham Westbrook 18/Jul 2nd
with Gibbon
derekb 23/Jun Lead

Clean !

with Harry
jmills94 22/Jun 2nd O/S

definitely didnt go far enough left at the middle part of the route which made it a fair bit harder. quite sustained this way especially nearer the top but all the pockets are positive. No threads insitu which made things all the more fun for michael!

with michael
Mike505 21/Jun Lead O/S

I think I may have wondered a little too far right at one point but a brilliant little pitch all the same.

jamie ward 21/Jun 2nd O/S
with Chris Comrie
Alison Cairns 04/Jun Lead rpt
with Andy
Hidden 04/Jun Lead rpt
belay bunny turned bad 23/May Lead O/S
with Iain M
Hidden 17/May TR
Rachel Slater 16/May Lead O/S
with Rosie Slater
Hidden 10/May 2nd rpt
Jonathan Hall 10/May Lead
Hidden 02/May TR
Hidden 18/Apr 2nd
Hidden 11/Apr Lead rpt
Thunderthighsontheloose 11/Apr 2nd O/S
Hidden 14/Mar Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2015 -
benw681 02/Nov/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Aug/14 Lead rpt
Becky E 30/Aug/14 2nd O/S
Graeme Hammond 30/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Becky E
kenneM 24/Aug/14 AltLd
Chriswallis2 03/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Anna
robgixer 23/Jul/14 Lead O/S

no threads in place, some a little tricky to place and a bit too hot, but really good pocket climbing

chris smith 14/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Gets a little thin near the top. A pumpy route.

mickyv33 17/May/14 2nd O/S
with alun freem
Hidden 05/May/14 Lead O/S
EDB4YLI55 ?/May/14 2nd dog
Hidden 13/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Apr/14 Lead O/S
the power 11/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Redemption for being a slag

with Andy
Andy Peak 1 11/Apr/14 Lead

Very good slab climbing , completely focused on climbing to the tat that terns out wasn't on my route , mised the perfect thred infront of my face :-)

dr_botnik 11/Apr/14 2nd O/S
with Andy
Duncan Campbell 09/Apr/14 AltLd O/S

I led the approach pitch. Mian pitch is excellent, pockety climbing. Maybe worth 3*'s?

with Bubbles
jon_gill1 29/Mar/14 2nd O/S
with chris Lyness
Theeni 22/Mar/14 2nd O/S
with Will McEvoy, John McEvoy
Jonny Nick 09/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Great route, guy called Andy took some pics of me on it, would love to get a copy if they're good. Cheers

Bob ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
prcleary ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
adie84 ??/2014 -
Hidden 10/Dec/13 Lead O/S
tmawer 06/Oct/13 2nd rpt
with Bram
BTphonehome 06/Oct/13 Lead O/S
with Tony
leon 08/Sep/13 Lead O/S

easy climbing but the fact you cannot spot the gear until you on top of it adds an edge. started the day at dove dale but when i left the guide book in the car we decided to try here instead.

Hidden 08/Sep/13 2nd
Hidden 03/Sep/13 Lead rpt
Merlin 21/Jul/13 2nd O/S
with Polly Withers, Jimmy James
Hidden 07/Jul/13 Lead
Alex@home 04/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with The Doctor
JEP 18/Jun/13 2nd
Hoyes 18/Jun/13 2nd O/S
Batt 18/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Some tat in situ

with Jonathan Prager, James Hoyes
keith leonard 08/May/13 2nd
ashtond6 04/May/13 Lead O/S

amazing climbing

alp79 04/May/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 07/Apr/13 Lead
Dizz 02/Mar/13 2nd O/S
with Dale
HB1 28/Feb/13 Lead rpt
with KB
bullybones 19/Feb/13 Lead
with Neil
BoulderyDave 26/Oct/12 2nd
Jake Young 15/Sep/12 2nd O/S
with Mark R
mark20 15/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Jake Young 15/Sep/12 Lead rpt
with Mark R
James Oswald 10/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Really great. The grade of the route is heavily dependent on how solid the threads are.

with Fred
Hidden 10/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 08/Sep/12 Lead rpt
Thunderthighsontheloose 08/Sep/12 2nd O/S

Loved this - great pocket climbing. VERY hot in the sun!

with iain mount, Mike Hayes
catblack 06/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

lead second pitch. found gear fidly but climbing steady.

Hidden 12/Aug/12 Lead rpt
Hidden 21/Jul/12 2nd
Hidden 21/Jul/12 Lead
Hidden 20/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
David Kay 12/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Good pocket-pulling climbing.

Hidden 12/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Jules Lane ?/Jun/12 2nd O/S

Did this great route much better than 2 years ago.

with Dutch Mel
phardman 12/May/12 Lead rpt
Hidden 12/May/12 2nd
bigdrew 01/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Mike Hegarty 01/Apr/12 AltLd O/S

Led 2nd pitch..Excellent climb..!

with Dave
markalmack 25/Mar/12 2nd O/S
with andy lole
GuyVG 25/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

2nd Pitch, 3 stars, if only it was a longer.

with Steve Ramsden
tlmarjot 25/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Mark Almack
Souljah 24/Mar/12 2nd

The second pitch is mint

MDowson 11/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
with sam webb
cem 18/Dec/11 Lead rpt
with Kirill Spiridonov, Natalia Male Alcalde
Kirill 18/Dec/11 AltLd rpt

led p1 (4b)

with Natalia Male Alcalde, Charles Moreton
MD 24/Sep/11 AltLd O/S

Led P2

with Ed
Chris_barr 22/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with James
robinsi197 09/Sep/11 Lead
with Nick
simeclimb68 09/Sep/11 Lead rpt
with Phil Wilkinson
Hidden 04/Sep/11 2nd O/S
Nevil ?/Sep/11 TR
with Mike
Hidden ?/Sep/11 TR
caradoc 22/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Maybe I missed something but I thought the gear in the crux sequence was quite poor. View at- http://youtu.be/P_BV2lrharE

with nick yapp
petellis 06/Aug/11 2nd O/S

Access pitch to the Thorn

with Sloth
Hidden 27/Jul/11 Lead
Martin Haworth 14/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Andy
Andrew Sloan 14/Jul/11 2nd O/S
Pete Nugent 16/May/11 2nd rpt

Lovely climbing, I found Evensong to be harder but perhpas I was tired & emotional!

w.pettet-smith 16/May/11 Lead
with pete nugent
thomasadixon 24/Apr/11 AltLd

Wicked route, good pocket pulling all the way. Lead 2nd pitch.

with Becca
BeccaSnowden 24/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Led 1st pitch. 2nd pitch is very cool!

with Tom
odox 16/Apr/11 Lead
andybirtwistle 16/Apr/11 2nd
GrantB 25/Mar/11 Lead
Kirill 09/Jan/11 2nd O/S
cem 09/Jan/11 Lead rpt
cymjt ??/2011 -
Hidden 30/Oct/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 30/Oct/10 Lead
Hidden 02/Oct/10 Lead O/S
simonp ?/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Kyanouche
Coel Hellier 26/Sep/10 Lead
Hidden 04/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
decs 04/Sep/10 2nd
with Bart
Hidden 31/Aug/10 Lead
Hidden 15/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Nick Taylor 20/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Adam Long
spacey 29/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Tom
Hidden 26/Jun/10 Lead O/S
chrisbussell 22/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Tim O'Neill
Somerset swede basher 09/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Martin Cleaver
Martin Cleaver 09/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Dom Selers
Dan Lane 24/Apr/10 Lead O/S

Awesome route, led both pitches and found the 2nd pitch quite hard, but only because it is fairly hard to thread the threads, some of which are worryingly thin, although others are bomber. Thank god i had a Beeston Broddler.

with Dad
Jules Lane 24/Apr/10 2nd dog
with Dan
Hidden 19/Apr/10 TR
Hidden 13/Apr/10 Lead O/S
GF ??/2010 2nd
Hidden ??/2010 Lead
igneouscarl 13/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
with Robert Jones
Silum 13/Sep/09 Lead O/S


with Carl, Tom
Dave Mason 07/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
with Adam Gill
Misha 06/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Pete Randall 05/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
with Pete Neden
Barry D 09/Aug/09 Lead
with Ian W
Compo 30/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Kev Faux
Hidden 25/Jul/09 Lead
Hidden 07/May/09 AltLd RP
godusty 03/May/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 20/Mar/09 AltLd rpt
Ketu 07/Feb/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Jan/09 2nd
bullybones ??/2009 -
Brown 16/Nov/08 2nd O/S
with Henry
trekkie 13/Sep/08 Lead β

following the pockets helps in finding the gear - wrong line makes for long run-out...

with Wendy
Different Steve 25/Aug/08 2nd rpt
with Karen Roberts & Guy Reid
Stig 08/Aug/08 2nd rpt
with Charlie Reade-Jahn
stemill 03/May/08 2nd O/S
with Mark
Diggler ?/May/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Feb/08 Lead
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 -
sdht ??/2008 -
with Jill
Hidden 11/Nov/07 2nd O/S
Hidden 31/Jul/07 2nd
Brian Rodgers 03/May/07 Lead O/S
philhilo 03/May/07 2nd O/S
Owen W-G 14/Apr/07 AltLd O/S

Led P2. Hungover from Anthony & Nancy's wedding on a v hot day.

with Jody
Hidden 03/Feb/07 Lead
Hidden 03/Feb/07 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2007 2nd O/S
Chris the Tall 05/Nov/06 Lead O/S

Placing the threads is the hardest part

with Jamie V
jamiev 05/Nov/06 2nd β

i lead the first pitch, then 2nd-ed Chris up the 2nd pitch. excellent.

Si dH 13/Oct/06 Lead dnf

Backed off from the huge juggy pocket on the top wall, didnt trust any of the gear at all.

with Neil Furniss
Ben1983 07/Jul/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Apr/06 Lead
Hidden ?/Feb/06 2nd
Boy ??/2006 -
Hidden 16/Sep/05 Lead rpt
Stig 23/Jul/05 Lead O/S
with Jonathan Teale
chrishedgehog 13/Jan/05 Lead O/S
with Erwin Bottomley
Hidden ?/Jul/04 2nd
Hidden 15/Jul/03 Lead
nickdonohue 15/Jul/03 Lead
with Joe Brown
nige pacer 30/Mar/03 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Jul/02 Lead
Hidden 15/May/02 Lead
Urgles ?/May/02 2nd O/S
with Fiend
Hidden 10/Apr/02 Lead
Dave Bond ??/2002 Lead O/S
with Adrian Whitehall
CrashMat Rob 22/Jul/01 AltLd O/S

Nicky lead the first pitch

with Nicky
cem 28/Jan/01 Lead O/S
with Cam, Graham Dolman, Miles Butteriss
Julian Wedd ??/2001 -
with D. Body
DubyaJamesDubya ??/2001 -
Hidden 13/Feb/00 Lead
tuftynick ??/2000 Lead
marcoleptic ??/2000 Lead O/S
with Mel
Hidden 21/Mar/99 Lead
Le Chevalier Mal Fet 04/Jun/97 AltLd
John Southworth ?/Mar/97 Lead O/S
Phill Mitch ??/1997 Lead O/S
with gaz
Budge 13/Jul/96 AltLd O/S
with Brian Ottewell
Hidden 09/Jun/96 2nd
andy_pemberton 27/May/96 Lead
with Noel
craig h 28/Apr/96 Lead O/S
with Janet Hannah
Hidden 10/Dec/95 Lead
daprince ?/Aug/95 Lead
Colin Edwards 07/Apr/95 2nd
with Dave Fleet
steveriley ??/1995 Lead
Hidden ??/1995 Lead
Daniel Wrightson 27/Nov/94 Lead O/S
with Dave
mattnuttall 27/Nov/94 2nd O/S
with Rupert Gladstone
Roget 08/Oct/94 Lead rpt
with jon
Hidden 24/Apr/94 2nd
Hidden 24/Apr/94 Lead
Backinthegame ?/Mar/94 2nd
with John Wright
Hidden 18/Sep/93 Lead
D Tempest 22/Aug/93 Lead O/S
with Rick
Mark Kemball 11/Apr/93 2nd
with Bill Kemball
Mick King 13/Mar/93 AltLd

Lead P2

with Steve Hill
Roget 20/Feb/93 2nd O/S
with Jonathan T
nai ??/1993 Lead
rogerskews ??/1993 AltLd
with Phil
neilh 19/Sep/92 Lead
with sara hyde
Hidden 04/Sep/92 Lead O/S
rob.grafton 26/Jul/92 2nd
with Bruce
tlr 18/May/92 Lead
with Cal
andrew300169 16/May/92 Lead O/S

superb route

with Woz
Sean Kelly ?/May/92 Lead

Loved this climbing!

with Keith Bolton
Hidden 19/Apr/92 Solo rpt
Mick King 11/Apr/92 Lead
with Simon Walsh
Rob Davies 11/Apr/92 Lead
AlanLittle 11/Mar/92 Lead
Andy Say 01/Mar/92 Lead O/S
Gary Coggon ??/1992 Lead O/S

Purdy? 92?

with Simon Purdy
Hidden 06/Oct/91 2nd
adi bryant 05/Oct/91 2nd

Clive's first E1:)

with Clive
tlr 03/Aug/91 AltLd
with Cal
Ena ?/Aug/91 Lead β

Too hot for Beeston

with Martin Trouse
whispering nic 21/Apr/91 2nd
with Graham Iles
leathers 25/Mar/91 Lead O/S
with Hilary Gott
Hidden 24/Mar/91 Lead
paulpaint ?/May/90 Lead
NickJH ?/Apr/90 Lead
with D Picker, J Airey, I Smith, D Townsend
tlr 03/Mar/90 AltLd
with Nick
Ghastly Rubberfeet ??/1990 2nd
with Duncan Martin
Nick Rundall ??/1990 2nd O/S
Hidden 30/Oct/89 Lead O/S
tapley 30/Jul/89 Lead
with Alison Tapley
Hidden 29/May/89 2nd
Bruce Kerr 29/Apr/89 Lead
with Grahame Nicoll, Rab Young
Hidden ??/1989 Lead O/S
Gordon Stainforth 02/Jul/88 2nd
with Fliss Butler
mark-abz 04/Jun/88 Lead
with Andy W
Hidden 07/May/88 2nd
BigHairyIan 17/Apr/88 Lead O/S

My first proper E1 lead.

with Claire Redman
Pete Pozman 07/Apr/88 2nd O/S
with Mark Gray
Lone Rider 05/Apr/88 Lead O/S
with Sheila Lockhart
Paula Hamilton-Gibson 20/Feb/88 AltLd
with Bill Williamson
Michael Hood 07/Feb/88 Lead
Hidden 28/Nov/87 2nd
Dave Musgrove 01/Nov/87 Lead
with Frank Wilkinson
Hidden 17/Oct/87 2nd
Hidden 26/Sep/87 2nd
Hidden 19/Apr/87 2nd
Hidden 22/Mar/87 Lead
surfbish ?/Mar/87 Lead O/S
shark 10/Oct/86 2nd
with Chris
Hidden 04/Oct/86 Lead
sadams ?/Aug/86 Lead
with Colin from Stoney
Hidden 17/Jul/86 2nd
Hidden 05/Apr/86 Lead
Ian Clare ??/1985 -
charlesmfrench 25/Nov/84 Lead O/S
steve L 05/Aug/84 Lead O/S
with Clive Curle
Hidden ?/May/84 2nd rpt
stp 11/Mar/84 Lead O/S
AlanLittle ??/1984 2nd
with Dave Hall
Mark Kemball 12/Nov/83 2nd
with Dave Abbey
Nigel Bond 18/Sep/83 AltLd
with Charlie Leverton
Hidden 26/Mar/83 Lead
Gezzer ??/1983 -
with Andy Towne
Hidden ??/1983 Lead
Hidden 04/Jul/82 Lead
Andy Stephenson 16/May/82 Lead rpt

Had seconded the previous month

Nic Robinson 07/May/82 AltLd O/S
with Irish George
Hidden 25/Apr/82 AltLd
Mark Kemball 06/Feb/82 Lead
with Sian Calow
uphillnow 25/Nov/81 Lead


Andy Edgar ??/1980 Lead
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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 67
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 4
Votes cast 68
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set