Majolica** E3 5c

Rockfax Description
Good fun and almost a sport route at about 6b if you clip gear on the previous route. Climb the groove past some threadable pockets and the remains of the old pint-pot handle hold, to blanker rock. Press on up this to join The Spider. Finish up this or lower off. © ROCKFAX

UKC Logbook Description
Strip back any new growth on the ivy as you go past as it can hide a foothold which makes getting across to the jug handle a fair bit easier!

FA. Gary Gibson 1983
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This climb is in 70 logbooks, and on 3 wishlists.

Wasn't entirely sure where to go so went out right to the peg on the arÍte of the cave, got a purple friend in a pocket above and traversed across to the jug handle on 2-3 finger pockets and very poor feet. Not much of a rest at the jug handle so moved up from there to a sort of rest below the slight bulge. Decisive moves through that saw me to the top, just about - came close to getting a bit desperate! A good route which packs a punch. Thought it was a hard E3 5c. Jon said he'd done it before on someone else's gear and it felt F6b. I said he must have been going well! This is not a sport route (the threads alone would make for a very bold route and they all need replacing anyway), nor is it F6b - more like F6c! Lowering off I stripped off some of the ivy, which revealed a couple of footholds below the jug handle, which would have made life a lot easier! There might be a more direct way to get to the jug handle but Jon did the same as me and it was solid at the grade. Have backed up the upper lower off with 6mm cord but would be good to get a rope on it. The first lower off you get to is total mank, should have cut it down.
Misha - Lead O/S - 04/May/15 with Jon

Blimey. First route of the season, sketched my way up this getting very flash pumped in the process! The hard climbing is very intense with poor feet around the 'jug handle'. Threads could do with being replaced, all very sun bleached and some very thin.
Duncan Campbell - Lead O/S - 22/Mar/15 with GuyVG

Hidden - Lead RP - 13/Apr/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Mar/14

Alex@home - 2nd dog - 04/Jul/13 with The Doctor

ejected - 2013

think we managed to go between the e1 and e3, out of reach of both sets of threads. spicy!
w.pettet-smith - 18/Aug/12 with ben

Hidden - Lead - 12/May/12

Need to get back and try this one again..!
Mike Hegarty - Lead dog - 01/Apr/12 with Dave

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Mar/12

Ram MkiV - Lead O/S - 25/Mar/12 with Guy

Like a threaded version of the pegged up windhover at stoney, medieval sport climbing. Draws in from Steve's onsight. There are some tough but brilliant pulls on this - short lived 6b/+ but don't go thinking its sport
GuyVG - Lead β - 25/Mar/12 with Steve Ramsden

Quality - two stars def. Flash, on Chris's gear. We replaced one of the threads, the old ones need cutting out, the rest are ok.
Stig - Lead O/S - 17/Aug/11 with Chris

chrishedgehog - Lead O/S - 17/Aug/11 with James Rees

not much harder than solution pollution
Rachel Slater - Lead O/S - 21/May/11 with Nigel Slater

Wicked climbing.
thomasadixon - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/11 with Becca

So hard!
BeccaSnowden - 2nd dog - 24/Apr/11 with Tom

The insitu threads are looking very old now, worth doing the E1 on the left then abbing down to replace a few.
Somerset swede basher - Lead O/S - 26/Mar/11 with Dan Lane

Hidden - Lead - 2010

Bit of a clip up.
Brian Rodgers - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/09 with Phil Leng

Just as I remember
philhilo - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/09 with brian rodgers

danm - 2nd - 20/Sep/08 with Sion

J_Clark - 2008

Boy - 2006

Dave Bond - Lead O/S - 2004 with charles

Hidden - 2nd - 10/Apr/02

Hidden - Lead RP - 13/Feb/00

tuftynick - Lead - 2000

craig h - 2nd - 20/Apr/99 with Nez

Hidden - Lead - 21/Mar/99

Hidden - Lead - 06/Apr/97

andy_pemberton - Lead - 27/May/96 with Noel

Hidden - Lead - 10/Dec/95

Daniel Wrightson - Lead - 13/May/95 with Simon

mattnuttall - Lead O/S - 27/Nov/94 with Rupert Gladstone

Hidden - Lead - 18/Sep/93

D Tempest - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/93 with Rick

nai - Lead - 1993

Hidden - Lead - 17/Oct/92

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Sep/92

Rich Kirby - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/92 with Paul Tanton

Roget - Lead rpt - 04/Aug/92

tlr - 2nd - 18/May/92 with Cal

andrew300169 - Lead RP - 16/May/92 with Woz

whispering nic - Lead O/S - 1992 with Graham Iles

Hidden - Lead - 06/Oct/91

Hidden - Lead - 11/May/91

Bruce Kerr - Lead - 25/Mar/90 with Rab Young

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Dec/89

scree - Sep/89

Hidden - Lead dog - 29/May/89

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1989

Hidden - AltLd - 29/May/88

Stoney Boy - Lead O/S - 28/Nov/87 with Gareth James, Neil Binns

Hidden - 2nd - 26/Sep/87

Billg - Lead O/S - 12/Apr/87 with Liam Grant

Hidden - 2nd - 22/Mar/87

Hidden - 2nd - 04/Oct/86

sadams - Lead - Aug/86 with Colin from Stoney

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1986

Hidden - Lead - 02/May/85

Hidden - 05/Apr/85

shark - Lead - 06/Mar/85 with Steve Senior

Ian Clare - 1985

Hidden - 2nd - 16/Sep/84

neilh - 2nd - 23/Jun/84

Mark Kemball - Lead - 09/Feb/84 with Hugh Stuart

Hidden - Lead - 1984

uphillnow - 1980 with Andrew (Pog) Horn

Andy Edgar - 1980 with Hugh Woodland, Mick Hardwick

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
ashtond6, Gary Coggon, Michael Hood

Total votes cast 47
hard E40 of 16
E40 of 16
easy E40 of 16
hard E32 of 16
E314 of 16
easy E30 of 16
hard E20 of 16
E20 of 16
easy E20 of 16
hard 6a0 of 16
6a0 of 16
easy 6a0 of 16
hard 5c2 of 16
5c14 of 16
easy 5c0 of 16
hard 5b0 of 16
5b0 of 16
easy 5b0 of 16
3 Stars3 of 15
2 Stars12 of 15
1 Star0 of 15
0 Stars0 of 15
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