Rockfax Description
Good fun and almost a sport route at about 6b if you clip gear on the previous route. Climb the groove past some threadable pockets and the remains of the old pint-pot handle hold, to blanker rock. Press on up this to join The Spider. Finish up this or lower off. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Strip back any new growth on the ivy as you go past as it can hide a foothold which makes getting across to the jug handle a fair bit easier!

FA. Gary Gibson 1983

Misha 04/May Lead O/S

Wasn't entirely sure where to go so went out right to the peg on the arÍte of the cave, got a purple friend in a pocket above and traversed across to the jug handle on 2-3 finger pockets and very poor feet. Not much of a rest at the jug handle so moved up from there to a sort of rest below the slight bulge. Decisive moves through that saw me to the top, just about - came close to getting a bit desperate! A good route which packs a punch. Thought it was a hard E3 5c. Jon said he'd done it before on someone else's gear and it felt F6b. I said he must have been going well! This is not a sport route (the threads alone would make for a very bold route and they all need replacing anyway), nor is it F6b - more like F6c! Lowering off I stripped off some of the ivy, which revealed a couple of footholds below the jug handle, which would have made life a lot easier! There might be a more direct way to get to the jug handle but Jon did the same as me and it was solid at the grade. Have backed up the upper lower off with 6mm cord but would be good to get a rope on it. The first lower off you get to is total mank, should have cut it down.

with Jon
Duncan Campbell 22/Mar Lead O/S

Blimey. First route of the season, sketched my way up this getting very flash pumped in the process! The hard climbing is very intense with poor feet around the 'jug handle'. Threads could do with being replaced, all very sun bleached and some very thin.

with GuyVG
Hidden 13/Apr/14 Lead RP
Hidden 16/Mar/14 Lead O/S
Alex@home 04/Jul/13 2nd dog
with The Doctor
ejected ??/2013 -
w.pettet-smith 18/Aug/12 -

think we managed to go between the e1 and e3, out of reach of both sets of threads. spicy!

with ben
Hidden 12/May/12 Lead
Mike Hegarty 01/Apr/12 Lead dog

Need to get back and try this one again..!

with Dave
Hidden 25/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Ram MkiV 25/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Guy
GuyVG 25/Mar/12 Lead β

Like a threaded version of the pegged up windhover at stoney, medieval sport climbing. Draws in from Steve's onsight. There are some tough but brilliant pulls on this - short lived 6b/+ but don't go thinking its sport

with Steve Ramsden
Stig 17/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Quality - two stars def. Flash, on Chris's gear. We replaced one of the threads, the old ones need cutting out, the rest are ok.

with Chris
chrishedgehog 17/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with James Rees
Rachel Slater 21/May/11 Lead O/S

not much harder than solution pollution

with Nigel Slater
thomasadixon 24/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Wicked climbing.

with Becca
BeccaSnowden 24/Apr/11 2nd dog

So hard!

with Tom
Somerset swede basher 26/Mar/11 Lead O/S

The insitu threads are looking very old now, worth doing the E1 on the left then abbing down to replace a few.

with Dan Lane
Hidden ??/2010 Lead
Brian Rodgers 15/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Bit of a clip up.

philhilo 15/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Just as I remember

danm 20/Sep/08 2nd
with Sion
jondude ??/2008 -
Boy ??/2006 -
Dave Bond ??/2004 Lead O/S
with charles
Hidden 10/Apr/02 2nd
Hidden 13/Feb/00 Lead RP
tuftynick ??/2000 Lead
craig h 20/Apr/99 2nd
with Nez
Hidden 21/Mar/99 Lead
Hidden 06/Apr/97 Lead
andy_pemberton 27/May/96 Lead
with Noel
Hidden 10/Dec/95 Lead
Daniel Wrightson 13/May/95 Lead
with Simon
mattnuttall 27/Nov/94 Lead O/S
with Rupert Gladstone
Hidden 18/Sep/93 Lead
D Tempest 22/Aug/93 Lead O/S
with Rick
nai ??/1993 Lead
Hidden 17/Oct/92 Lead
Hidden 04/Sep/92 Lead O/S
Rich Kirby 13/Aug/92 Lead O/S
Roget 04/Aug/92 Lead rpt
tlr 18/May/92 2nd
with Cal
andrew300169 16/May/92 Lead RP
with Woz
whispering nic ??/1992 Lead O/S
with Graham Iles
Hidden 06/Oct/91 Lead
Hidden 11/May/91 Lead
Bruce Kerr 25/Mar/90 Lead
with Rab Young
Hidden 02/Dec/89 Lead O/S
scree ?/Sep/89 -
Hidden 29/May/89 Lead dog
Hidden ??/1989 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/May/88 AltLd
Stoney Boy 28/Nov/87 Lead O/S
with Gareth James, Neil Binns
Hidden 26/Sep/87 2nd
Billg 12/Apr/87 Lead O/S
with Liam Grant
Hidden 22/Mar/87 2nd
Hidden 04/Oct/86 2nd
sadams ?/Aug/86 Lead
with Colin from Stoney
Hidden ??/1986 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/May/85 Lead
Hidden 05/Apr/85 -
shark 06/Mar/85 Lead
with Steve Senior
Ian Clare ??/1985 -
Hidden 16/Sep/84 2nd
neilh 23/Jun/84 2nd
Mark Kemball 09/Feb/84 Lead
with Hugh Stuart
Hidden ??/1984 Lead
uphillnow ??/1980 -
with Andrew (Pog) Horn
Andy Edgar ??/1980 -
with Hugh Woodland, Mick Hardwick
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
ashtond6, Gary Coggon, Michael Hood
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 16
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 16
Votes cast 15
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set