Derbyshire > Tissington Spires (Dovedale) >
 
Ten Craters of Wisdom** VS 5a

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<< Don van Vliet
 
Simeon >>
[Ten Craters of Wisdom 2nd Pitch, 3 kb]32m, 2 pitches. 1) 4b, 10m. As for Rose Bowl. 2) 5a, 20m. Step left and pull through a notch in the overhang to the left of a large hanging flake, onto the slab above. Continue up the face on good holds, trending slightly leftwards. A fine pitch with many (even 10 perhaps) surprising holds. © ROCKFAX
FA. Chris Calow 1978

Ticklists: The 100 Best UK VS routes?.

Photo: Ten Craters of Wisdom 2nd Pitch © Ian Clare
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 202 logbooks, and on 16 wishlists.

Robin Nichols - Lead O/S - 29/Mar/14 with Roger

muppett - 2014

j.buckley87 - Lead O/S - 06/Oct/13

hazeysunshine - 2nd dog - 22/Sep/13 with Thea, Helen L

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Jul/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Jul/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Jul/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Jul/13

Hidden - AltLd - 27/Jul/13

Lead as one pitch, absolutely brilliant!
Whealiebob - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/13 with Terry

Milne - 2nd O/S - 15/Jul/13 with Dave

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 07/Jul/13

slacky - 2nd O/S - 29/Jun/13 with Ben

Great climb but the scramble upto the start is fun! P1 is just grand but then P2 trumps it and the view down into the dale below once topped out is fantastic! The walk off is a good one as it's not clear and not that easy, we went left for a while then came back right and eventually descended down using the rope as a pull through hand line round various trees due to the scrabbly/slippy scree type surface and ended up at the foot of Campanile - a brilliant route and worth the stars in my eyes!
doughobbs - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/13 with Antoinette Wintin

Really nice climb, don't be put off by the first pitch. Crux was a long reach for 5 foot 5 Katy.
tatz45 - Lead O/S - 27/May/13 with Katy Vose

Absolutely top class climbing, with an Awsome belay view. This route is well worthy of 3 stars! Brilliant!
gazfellows - Lead - 20/Apr/13 with Billy

madasten - 2nd - 20/Apr/13 with Gaz

Top class.
odox - 2nd O/S - 06/Apr/13 with Sam Webb

nic_andrews - 2nd - 02/Apr/13 with Ian Clare, Jason fox

good holds and pro,crux at the top!Good aproach shoes needed as scree is loose
Dave Pen - Lead - 2013

Hidden - 2013

andybirtwistle - 2013

Ca 2004?
eduardo - Lead O/S - 2013

Hidden - AltLd - 06/Oct/12

Steve led first pitch
Marq - AltLd O/S - 06/Oct/12 with Steve Mount

JEP - 2nd rpt - 18/Aug/12

Lead P2 Nice pocket pulling after slimey first pitch
Batt - AltLd O/S - 18/Aug/12 with Dan

Different Steve - Lead rpt - 11/Aug/12 with Emma Hawkins

Led P2
Chris Manasseh - AltLd - 28/Jul/12 with Ste Millington

P1
stemill - AltLd - 28/Jul/12 with Chris Manasseh

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/12

In one pitch, why would you do it any other way? Ignore the rockfax line at the top, it's completely wrong! it would be about E4 if you were to follow it, move rightwards into a groove.
Dan Lane - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/12 with Martin Kocsis

MDowson - Lead O/S - 10/Mar/12 with sam webb

Awesome, jugs all the way.
Brannock - Lead O/S - 10/Mar/12

Stewart Armstrong - 2012

Tony Kartawick - 2012

very nice, pull onto slab, go slightly right then back left at groove. The RF line is blank
lithos - Lead - 02/Oct/11 with Pete Bradshaw

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 01/Oct/11

Fran S8 - 2nd - 03/Sep/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 03/Sep/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 03/Sep/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - Sep/11

JEP - 2nd rpt - 28/Jun/11

999thAndy - Lead O/S - 28/Jun/11 with Jonathon Prager

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/11

I seconded it 3(?) years ago, and this time I lead it in an occasional drizzle. Confirmed the quality of the route - the best VS route I have ever done in Peak Limestone so far.
masa-alpin - Lead rpt - 18/Jun/11 with Matt B, Luke A

Hidden - 2nd - 18/Jun/11

Hidden - AltLd - 05/Jun/11

Great secret jugs.
victim of mathematics - Lead O/S - 25/May/11 with Dom

biobuild - 2nd O/S - 19/May/11

marcoleptic - Lead O/S - 19/May/11 with Banjo, Andy Shep

Hidden - AltLd - 29/Apr/11

Hidden - Lead - 16/Apr/11

Tim Brookes - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/11

MoWalker3 - 2nd - 09/Apr/11 with CJ, chrissy

Chriswallis2 - Lead O/S - 02/Apr/11 with Anna

Exhilarating solo after 2nding it again :D
Graeme Hammond - Solo rpt - 02/Oct/10 with john Bramwell

Graeme Hammond - 2nd rpt - 02/Oct/10 with john Bramwell

Ahab - Lead O/S - 02/Oct/10

Just had to solo it, mind blowing!
Ahab - Solo β - 02/Oct/10

polished and reachy. and dont get me started on the approach/descent...
pebbles - 2nd - 16/Sep/10

lead second pitch
Kirill - AltLd O/S - 01/Aug/10 with Gerard Thornley

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 01/Aug/10

lovely stuff. just take slings for the plethora of threads and all will be well. jamie cooked up a spicy looking direct finish. just go straight up from the ledge. non of this moving gently rightwards to follow the natural line on good holds nonsense.
lukas richardo - Lead O/S - Aug/10 with dale, prav, jamie

Led in one pitch
Jim Slater - Lead rpt - 25/Jul/10 with Graeme

EXCELLENT, what a great set of holds!!! Jim led in one big pitch which made for a even better route overall. clearly worth 3 stars!!
Graeme Hammond - 2nd O/S - 25/Jul/10

Sweet route, holds just appear from nowhere.
jayrenegade - AltLd - 25/Jul/10 with Luke

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 03/Jul/10

JEP - AltLd - 27/Jun/10

bigdrew - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/10 with Mark R

markfairbank - Lead O/S - 30/May/10 with SteveyM

SteveMyatt - 2nd O/S - 30/May/10 with Mark Fairbank

Bex_M - 2nd - 23/May/10 with Duncan Dunbar

Done before with Sarah
jshields - Lead - 25/Apr/10 with Ed James

GF - 2010

Hidden - Lead - 2010

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/09

Did in one long pitch. Brilliant climbing
jimdanson - Lead - 12/Sep/09 with dan middleton

danm - 2nd - 12/Sep/09 with Jim Danson

Led P2
Different Steve - AltLd rpt - 01/Sep/09 with Clare

Hidden - 2nd - 23/Aug/09

Cool route, tricky move at the top, the rest is simple at 4c
Sam1991 - 2nd - 18/Aug/09 with Mark

Did in one pitch. Amazing juggy pockets and lots of threads. Good clean rock too.
mark20 - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/09

I led pitch 2. A good route, but with the crux significantly harder than the rest of it, which is mostly 4a/b. Would be a doddle if you're tall!
Simon Caldwell - AltLd O/S - 08/Aug/09 with Carmen

bullwinkle - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/09 with Jon & Paul

aquazepp - Lead - Jul/09 with Treacherous

treacherous - 2nd - Jul/09 with aquazepp

porridgefan - Lead O/S - 28/Jun/09 with Niall Francis

Hidden - 28/Jun/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 31/May/09

Al backed out of the top moves.
Jim Slater - AltLd O/S - 31/May/09 with Alan

Different Steve - 2nd rpt - 30/May/09 with Steve Gray & Carol Fowles

bridget143 - Lead O/S - 11/May/09 with Sion

Ant Man Bee - 2nd - 10/May/09 with Alex Cowan

Superb climb. With Giles (barefoot)
LittleJoe - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/09 with Michelle

Michelle_250 - 2nd O/S - 22/Apr/09 with Joe and Giles

Giles-Caradog - 2nd - Apr/09

stemill - AltLd O/S - 29/Mar/09 with Graham

Calder - AltLd O/S - 29/Mar/09 with Ste

Absolutely brilliant route.
thomasadixon - Lead O/S - 21/Mar/09 with Alan

Fantastic route, really peculiar holds, so many enormous incut jugs seperated by quite blank sections. Intial section very easy, then up the flake, feels steep but still easy. All the way up to the next steep section, then theres one 5a move into a big jug. Put my left foot quite far right (in relation to my body) stepped up and reached it easily. Lovely spot at the top, had a look around and abbed off the tree back down, took two abseils and ended up with a curious family watching us abb.
Reaver2k - 2nd O/S - 21/Mar/09 with Tom Dixon

Different Steve - AltLd rpt - 20/Sep/08 with Johnboy & Karen Roberts

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/08

Alfredo - Lead - Aug/08 with Ben H

b.hayley - 2nd - Aug/08

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 14/Jun/08

Matthallinan - Lead - 29/May/08 with Nicky Winn

Hidden - 2nd - 21/May/08

DannyK - Lead O/S - 10/May/08 with Katie

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/May/08

AndrewJenkins - 2008

Hidden - 2008

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2008

I led the first pitch (4b), Simon the second (5a)
Chris the Tall - AltLd rpt - 10/Aug/07 with Simon Shaw

Hidden - Lead - 04/Aug/07

MD - AltLd - 04/Aug/07 with Misha

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Apr/07

Lead second pitch. Well positioned, amazing holds and gear (threaded nuts galore)
Sankey - AltLd O/S - 06/Apr/07 with Andy E

coffeepot - 2nd - 2007 with jelaby

keith leonard - Lead - 2007

Gets 5a in the guidebook! Probably 4c for me really. Great route.
Si dH - Lead O/S - 18/Nov/06 with Neil Furniss

Different Steve - 2nd rpt - 06/Nov/06 with Simon Chandler

Cameron13 - AltLd O/S - 11/Sep/06 with jules

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/06

scrappy first bit followed by some good 4c moves on large holds.
Whitt - Lead O/S - 18/Jul/06 with Andy

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 16/Jul/06

Hidden - 2nd - Oct/04

Hidden - Lead dog - 13/Jun/04

chrishedgehog - Lead O/S - 24/Oct/03 with Erwin Bottomley

krikoman - 2nd O/S - 10/Oct/03 with Kev Gibbs

Abi Chard - Lead dog - Jun/03 with Steve W, Ian

Rich Malcolm - AltLd β - 10/May/03 with Guy Tooth

Dave Bond - Lead O/S - 07/May/03 with Rich Hatton

Phill Mitch - Lead O/S - 2003 with john d

Hidden - Solo - 28/Sep/02

Hidden - 2nd - 21/Sep/02

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/02

Hidden - Lead - 13/Apr/02

sdht - 2002

lead p2.lovely holds, lovely moves
colin milton - AltLd - Jul/01 with eric milton

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/00

Hidden - 2000

Led p2. Also several times since
cem - AltLd O/S - 15/Aug/99 with Graham Dolman

Rich Malcolm - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/99 with Emma Pilkington, Darren Pallett

chris wyatt - 1999

Jim Brooke - 2nd O/S - 30/Aug/98 with James Latham

Hidden - Lead - 28/Jul/98

Stoney Boy - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/98 with Mark Walker, Duncan Cundy

FrankW - 2nd O/S - 05/Jul/98 with Joe

FrankW - 2nd O/S - 05/Jul/98 with Joe

stokienomad - Lead - 01/Jul/98

Nick Smith - UKC - 2nd - May/98

rob.grafton - Lead - 08/Nov/97 with Bruce

EddieA - Lead O/S - 08/Jul/97 with Simon W

Scott McRae - Lead O/S - Jun/97 with Martin Hore

Led 2nd pitch.
Le Chevalier Mal Fet - AltLd - 06/Apr/97 with Richard Bower

Led pitch 2, amazing holds. Led both pitches + Roger Hardon on 8/5/98
Iain Thow - AltLd - 02/Sep/96 with Dave Walch

Laramadness - AltLd - 02/Jun/96 with RF

craig h - Lead O/S - 29/Apr/96 with Janet Hannah

Daniel Wrightson - Lead O/S - Oct/95 with Olivia Horner

Bill led first pitch, I led the second
Chris the Tall - AltLd - Apr/95 with Bill G

nickcanute - Lead - 1995

Hidden - AltLd - 06/Aug/94

Hidden - 2nd - 11/Jun/94

leathers - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/93 with Charlotte Evans

Hidden - Lead - 20/Sep/92

Hidden - Solo rpt - 03/May/92

Brilliant
Backinthegame - Lead O/S - May/92

Roget - 2nd O/S - 21/Mar/92 with JT

nai - Lead - 1992

Hidden - 1992

andrew300169 - Lead O/S - 1992

whispering nic - AltLd - 10/Nov/91 with Ali W

tlr - AltLd - 22/Sep/91

Rog Wilko - Lead - May/91 with Alan Nuttall

Hidden - 2nd - 15/Feb/91

Ena - Lead - May/90

Hidden - 2nd - 18/Mar/90

DaveHo - Lead O/S - 1990

Steve Lenartowicz - 1990

Hidden - Lead - 15/Oct/89

Hidden - AltLd - Jul/89

Hidden - Lead - 12/Jun/89

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 1988

Hidden - Lead - 02/Jul/87

Brilliant Route
malc - Lead - 26/Apr/87

charlesmfrench - Solo O/S - 24/Nov/85

Hidden - Lead - 19/Aug/85

neilh - Lead - 02/Jun/85 with dave croker

Hidden - Lead - 06/May/85

Ian Clare - 1985

andy gittins - 1985

AlanLittle - Lead - 1984 with Carl Blakeley

Hidden - 2nd - 13/Nov/83

Hidden - Solo - Nov/82

pebblespanker - AltLd O/S - 21/Oct/82

Nigel Bond - AltLd - 04/Apr/82 with Charlie Leverton

Chris Craggs - 1980

robinsi197 - 1980

robinsi197 - 1980

rogerskews - AltLd - 1978 with Martin Coward

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
jamie ward, mapperley samurai, sting, sims, Richard Alderton, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Dave Mason, helios, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, LittleJoe, PanzerHanzler, DerwentDiluted

Voting
Total votes cast 134
hard HVS0 of 50
HVS0 of 50
easy HVS1 of 50
hard VS4 of 50
VS44 of 50
easy VS0 of 50
hard HS1 of 50
HS0 of 50
easy HS0 of 50
hard 5b0 of 36
5b0 of 36
easy 5b0 of 36
hard 5a2 of 36
5a22 of 36
easy 5a9 of 36
hard 4c3 of 36
4c0 of 36
easy 4c0 of 36
3 Stars34 of 48
2 Stars11 of 48
1 Star3 of 48
0 Stars0 of 48
Bag of .....0 of 48
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Style of ascent

Soloed6 of 202 (3.0%)
Lead85 of 202 (42.1%)
Followed48 of 202 (23.8%)
Alt Leads44 of 202 (21.8%)
Unknown19 of 202 (9.4%)

'Climbed'93 of 202 (46.0%)
clean O/S88 of 202 (43.6%)
clean β2 of 202 (1.0%)
clean rpt16 of 202 (7.9%)
dogged3 of 202 (1.5%)