UKC Logbook - 'Ten Craters of Wisdom'

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Derbyshire > Tissington Spires (Dovedale) >

Ten Craters of Wisdom

VS 5a

Adjacent Climbs
<< Don van Vliet

Simeon >>

32m, 2 pitches. 1) 4b, 10m. As for Rose Bowl. 2) 5a, 20m. Step left and pull through a notch in the overhang to the left of a large hanging flake, onto the slab above. Continue up the face on good holds, trending slightly leftwards. A fine pitch with many (even 10 perhaps) surprising holds. © ROCKFAX
FA. Chris Calow 1978

Ticklists: The 100 Best UK VS routes?.

Photo: Ten Craters of Wisdom 2nd Pitch © Ian Clare
Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS

This climb is in 182 logbooks, and on 15 wishlists.

Great climb but the scramble upto the start is fun! P1 is just grand but then P2 trumps it and the view down into the dale below once topped out is fantastic! The walk off is a good one as it's not clear and not that easy, we went left for a while then came back right and eventually descended down using the rope as a pull through hand line round various trees due to the scrabbly/slippy scree type surface and ended up at the foot of Campanile - a brilliant route and worth the stars in my eyes!
doughobbs - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/13 with Antoinette Wintin

Really nice climb, don't be put off by the first pitch. Crux was a long reach for 5 foot 5 Katy.
tatz45 - Lead O/S - 27/May/13 with Katy Vose

Absolutely top class climbing, with an Awsome belay view. This route is well worthy of 3 stars! Brilliant!
gazfellows - Lead - 20/Apr/13 with Billy

madasten - 2nd - 20/Apr/13 with Gaz

Top class.
odox - 2nd O/S - 06/Apr/13 with Sam Webb

nic_andrews - 2nd - 02/Apr/13 with Ian Clare, Jason fox

good holds and pro,crux at the top!Good aproach shoes needed as scree is loose
Dave Pen - Lead - 2013

Hidden - 2013

Martin Bennett - 2013

Hidden - AltLd - 06/Oct/12

Steve led first pitch
Marq - AltLd O/S - 06/Oct/12 with Steve Mount

JEP - 2nd rpt - 18/Aug/12

Lead P2 Nice pocket pulling after slimey first pitch
Batt - AltLd O/S - 18/Aug/12 with Dan

Different Steve - Lead rpt - 11/Aug/12 with Emma Hawkins

Led P2
Chris Manasseh - AltLd - 28/Jul/12 with Ste Millington

P1
stemill - AltLd - 28/Jul/12 with Chris Manasseh

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/12

In one pitch, why would you do it any other way? Ignore the rockfax line at the top, it's completely wrong! it would be about E4 if you were to follow it, move rightwards into a groove.
Dan Lane - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/12 with Martin Kocsis

MDowson - Lead O/S - 10/Mar/12 with sam webb

Awesome, jugs all the way.
Brannock - Lead O/S - 10/Mar/12

Stewart Armstrong - 2012

Tony Kartawick - 2012

very nice, pull onto slab, go slightly right then back left at groove. The RF line is blank
lithos - Lead - 02/Oct/11 with Pete Bradshaw

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 01/Oct/11

Fran S8 - 2nd - 03/Sep/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 03/Sep/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 03/Sep/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - Sep/11

JEP - 2nd rpt - 28/Jun/11

999thAndy - Lead O/S - 28/Jun/11 with Jonathon Prager

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/11

I seconded it 3(?) years ago, and this time I lead it in an occasional drizzle. Confirmed the quality of the route - the best VS route I have ever done in Peak Limestone so far.
masa-alpin - Lead rpt - 18/Jun/11 with Matt B, Luke A

Hidden - 2nd - 18/Jun/11

Hidden - AltLd - 05/Jun/11

Great secret jugs.
victim of mathematics - Lead O/S - 25/May/11 with Dom

biobuild - 2nd O/S - 19/May/11

marcoleptic - Lead O/S - 19/May/11 with Banjo, Andy Shep

Hidden - AltLd - 29/Apr/11

Hidden - Lead - 16/Apr/11

Tim Brookes - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/11

MoWalker3 - 2nd - 09/Apr/11 with CJ, chrissy

Chriswallis2 - Lead O/S - 02/Apr/11 with Anna

Exhilarating solo after 2nding it again :D
Graeme Hammond - Solo rpt - 02/Oct/10 with john Bramwell

Graeme Hammond - 2nd rpt - 02/Oct/10 with john Bramwell

Ahab - Lead O/S - 02/Oct/10

Just had to solo it, mind blowing!
Ahab - Solo β - 02/Oct/10

polished and reachy. and dont get me started on the approach/descent...
pebbles - 2nd - 16/Sep/10

lead second pitch
Kirill - AltLd O/S - 01/Aug/10 with Gerard Thornley

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 01/Aug/10

lovely stuff. just take slings for the plethora of threads and all will be well. jamie cooked up a spicy looking direct finish. just go straight up from the ledge. non of this moving gently rightwards to follow the natural line on good holds nonsense.
lukas richardo - Lead O/S - Aug/10 with dale, prav, jamie

Led in one pitch
Jim Slater - Lead rpt - 25/Jul/10 with Graeme Hammond

EXCELLENT, what a great set of holds!!! Jim led in one big pitch which made for a even better route overall. clearly worth 3 stars!!
Graeme Hammond - 2nd O/S - 25/Jul/10

Sweet route, holds just appear from nowhere.
jayrenegade - AltLd - 25/Jul/10 with Luke

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 03/Jul/10

JEP - AltLd - 27/Jun/10

bigdrew - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/10 with Mark R

markfairbank - Lead O/S - 30/May/10 with SteveyM

SteveMyatt - 2nd O/S - 30/May/10 with Mark Fairbank

Bex_M - 2nd - 23/May/10 with Duncan Dunbar

Done before with Sarah
jshields - Lead - 25/Apr/10 with Ed James

GF - 2010

Hidden - Lead - 2010

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/09

Did in one long pitch. Brilliant climbing
jimdanson - Lead - 12/Sep/09 with dan middleton

danm - 2nd - 12/Sep/09 with Jim Danson

Led P2
Different Steve - AltLd rpt - 01/Sep/09 with Clare

Hidden - 2nd - 23/Aug/09

Cool route, tricky move at the top, the rest is simple at 4c
Sam1991 - 2nd - 18/Aug/09 with Mark

Did in one pitch. Amazing juggy pockets and lots of threads. Good clean rock too.
mark20 - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/09

I led pitch 2. A good route, but with the crux significantly harder than the rest of it, which is mostly 4a/b. Would be a doddle if you're tall!
Toreador - AltLd O/S - 08/Aug/09 with Carmen

bullwinkle - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/09 with Jon & Paul

aquazepp - Lead - Jul/09 with Treacherous

treacherous - 2nd - Jul/09 with aquazepp

porridgefan - Lead O/S - 28/Jun/09 with Niall Francis

Hidden - 28/Jun/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 31/May/09

Al backed out of the top moves.
Jim Slater - AltLd O/S - 31/May/09 with Al Smith

Different Steve - 2nd rpt - 30/May/09 with Steve Gray & Carol Fowles

bridget143 - Lead O/S - 11/May/09 with Sion

Hidden - 2nd - 10/May/09

Superb climb. With Giles (barefoot)
LittleJoe - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/09 with Michelle

Michelle_250 - 2nd O/S - 22/Apr/09 with Joe and Giles

Giles-Caradog - 2nd - Apr/09

stemill - AltLd O/S - 29/Mar/09 with Graham

Calder - AltLd O/S - 29/Mar/09 with Ste

Absolutely brilliant route.
thomasadixon - Lead O/S - 21/Mar/09 with Alan

Fantastic route, really peculiar holds, so many enormous incut jugs seperated by quite blank sections. Intial section very easy, then up the flake, feels steep but still easy. All the way up to the next steep section, then theres one 5a move into a big jug. Put my left foot quite far right (in relation to my body) stepped up and reached it easily. Lovely spot at the top, had a look around and abbed off the tree back down, took two abseils and ended up with a curious family watching us abb.
Reaver2k - 2nd O/S - 21/Mar/09 with Tom Dixon

Different Steve - AltLd rpt - 20/Sep/08 with Johnboy & Karen Roberts

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/08

Alfredo - Lead - Aug/08 with Ben H

b.hayley - 2nd - Aug/08

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 14/Jun/08

Matthallinan - Lead - 29/May/08 with Nicky Winn

Hidden - 2nd - 21/May/08

DannyK - Lead O/S - 10/May/08 with Katie

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/May/08

AndrewJenkins - 2008

Hidden - 2008

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2008