4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
172m. One of the classic VS routes of the Peak which provides a great outing with amazing situations for the grade. Not a good route for a busy weekend but fun and fairly dry (certainly the hardest bits) in light rain. The long version starts up Doggone Groove but you can miss the first traverse pitch by starting up The Chopper.
1) 4b, 30m. Climb Doggone Groove to a belay on the left.
2) 4b, 42m. Traverse the break to a tricky descent to easy ground. Belay above Match of the Day.
3) 4a, 35m. Traverse into the gully then out to reach a yew tree above Queer Street. The scenery is starting to get better.
4) 5a, 30m. Follow the break past many belays and threads, with a hard move above Ceramic, to a great hanging stance.
5) 4c, 35m. Keep going across the groove of Alfresco, tricky crossing the left wall, until you reach the tree/lower-off of Mortlock's Arete. Abseil off - 20m to the ground. © Rockfax

FA. C.Jackson, J.Atkinson, B.Starkey 1964

Ticklists: Hard Rock, The 100 Best UK VS routes?, Rockfax Peak Limestone Top 50, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, Peak Rock/10/White Life, Low grade quality Cheedale Trad.

GermanAlex 17/Oct Lead O/S

Fml, it really builds up to pitches 4 & 5! Found 4 absolutely nails at VS. In general: really fun traversing with great positions. Putting in more gear so Arno wouldn't have a bad time also made it more pumpy.

with Arno
Private Flounder 08/Aug AltLd
with chris manasseh
Chris Manasseh 08/Aug AltLd

Led 2 + 4. Abbed off before last pitch (Nick was knackered!)

Hidden 06/Aug AltLd rpt
Andrew Lodge 01/Aug AltLd rpt

Back to finish it with more daylight and it turns out the first three pitches were just the warm up. With Steve and Bob this time, Steve led 1, 3, 5 and I led 2 & 4. All went well until Bob took a whipper on the last hard move of pitch 5. Superb route and a great adventure. Steady rain at times but tucked under the roof it stays bone dry.

with Bob, Steve
Hidden 01/Aug AltLd
Hidden 15/Jul AltLd O/S
Dawn_K_B 10/Jul AltLd O/S

Ace, led p1,3,5 in super hot weather. Really enjoyed it.

with Dan Osbaldeston
Hidden 04/Jul AltLd
Tony Ryland 04/Jul AltLd dog

Led 1, 3 and eventually 5. Pitch 1 was greasy and I took a controlled fall after my foot slipped. Felt dehydrated after being baked whilst at belay after pitch 3. Found pitch 4 challenging and after looking at start of pitch 5 felt unable to lead it. However summoned up the courage and energy in the end and it went ok. I think it took us about 4.5 hours, is this a record?

with steveshaking, Steve Barby
Hidden 04/Jul AltLd
Hidden 23/Jun AltLd
Andrew Lodge 23/Jun AltLd dnf

We just started too late so had to ab off after P3 as it was getting dark, definitely need to go back and finish it though.

with Tony, Steve
Bernie L 09/Jun AltLd O/S
with Dave B
markalmack 06/Jun Lead O/S

Last pitch only

with will
PLM 18/May AltLd O/S

Sick fun on a showery day.

with Ruairi
markfairbank 15/May AltLd O/S

Led P2, 4 & 5... Overrated maybe

Anne Gumbley 15/May AltLd dog
Hidden ??/2015 -
phil64 ??/2015 Lead
Rachel Slater 20/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Lead 2+5. Fun trad-walking.

with Heather Florence, Duncan Campbell
Duncan Campbell 20/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Led P1 and 4. Brilliant fun in iffy weather. P1 was soaking wet so actually put my socks over my rock shoes to great effect. P4 is tricky VS. Proper laugh with them two crazy birds I did it with.

gripped01 20/Sep/14 AltLd
with Chris Berryman
j.buckley87 05/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Great fun, almost no need to take gear!

Le Chevalier Mal Fet 27/Aug/14 AltLd

Led P1 (Doggone Groove), P3 & P5. Amazing adventure climb.

DanChad 27/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

I led pitches 2 and 4.

tatz45 04/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 04/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 03/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
David_Gledson 28/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Led doggone groove, and a few other pitches. Nice positions and the odd nice move, a nice experience as the place is magical!

with Alan
willackers 27/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

My dad and his mates did the FA in 1964. It was a pleasure to climb it myself 50 years on! A great little adventure.

with Rob Napier
LakesWinter 23/Jul/14 AltLd

Great route

with Phil B
philboy 23/Jul/14 AltLd
with matt g
gavinpeach 22/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

A brilliant adventure. We climbed with a backpack and perfectly timed it across just as it began to get dark. I led pitches 2 and 4. The 4th and 5th pitches have some phenomenal climbing in some amazing positions. Thoroughly recommended.

with Scott
fifth 22/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

A real adventure for an evening! Led 1,3,5... An okay start with a great final 2 pitches!

with Gav
chrisbussell 15/Jul/14 -
with Tim O'Neill
Hidden 25/Jun/14 AltLd
Tony Ryland 25/Jun/14 AltLd dnf

Did 3 of the 5 pitches before abbing off as it got dark Great fun, felt like an adventure rather than a normal evening's cragging. Nice rock but vegetated with mice and lice

with Steve Barby
ColdAndWet 18/Jun/14 Lead
with Chris Allewell
67hours 01/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Fantastic climb - pitches get better and better from a fairly average start to the excellent final two. Lead P1,3,5

with Clay
Clay C 01/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
with George
Hidden 18/Apr/14 Lead O/S
richardashe 16/Mar/14 AltLd dnf

Unfortunately due to starting a bit late and faffing from both us and another team we had to bail one pitch from the end. Will definitely be going back to get it clean! Very nice traverse!

with Mark Jackson
Graham Westbrook 16/Mar/14 AltLd O/S
mjackson ??/2014 AltLd dnf

Had to bail due to insufficient daylight. Need to go back and finish the final pitch.

richardashe ??/2014 AltLd
mike mo ??/2014 -
James Thacker ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
Mike W 22/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
ClareSenny 21/Sep/13 2nd

First Hard Rock route!

ed edwards 21/Sep/13 Lead
Hardcore Pat 26/Aug/13 AltLd

1st, 3rd & 5th pitches

with Dan Osbasabooboo
Paul Hy 31/Jul/13 AltLd

the 1st pitch was soaking, the traverse was ok with just a few damp places where you didn't want them. i had to aid on crux of last pitch coz it was very wet there!

with Deacon
sting 27/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Good Adventure, plenty of holds. Led Pitches 1,3,5.

with kwaidy
Hidden 27/Jul/13 AltLd
deacondeacon 09/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Full length. Pitch one and another couple, not sure which. Fantastic route on great rock. brilliant fun.

the power 09/Jun/13 AltLd

A epic adventure

with deacon, rob
dr_botnik 09/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Wow. More like a mountain route, great exposure and a sense of real adventure.

Tamati 08/Jun/13 Lead O/S
JRigby ?/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
Mike Hegarty 31/May/13 AltLd O/S
with Christian Fox
Brannock 26/May/13 AltLd

With Bunny, Full length, very, very dirty in palces, mostly dry. Pretty good though, gets better as you go along, building up to the last pitch. Great to get back into the "lost world" atmosphere of cheedale.

MPSBunny 26/May/13 AltLd

OMG this climb is a proper adventure: river wading, jungle bashing, traversing, abseiling; what more can you ask for! John lead the first, third, fifth and sixth pitches whilst I lead the second and fourth. The main reason for us breaking it into so many pitches was due to my inability to gauge how far I had climbed each pitch and short changing myself each time. By the last pitch I was shattered and had pulled my right arm and despite talks of abseiling off I persevered and followed Johns sterling lead of the last pitch. I got as far as corner, still with the on-sight, despite some cheeky self protection techniques involving two cow tails and the in situ threads, before slipping off on a blank section after the corner making ample use of the final thread with an arm hooked through it for confidence!

ross brinson 16/Apr/13 Lead
with Hannah Watson
mikehenesy 09/Apr/13 AltLd O/S

Only did the first two pitches, well made them in to three! A lot of soil top of the first pitch(ie the additional second) made things a bit shakey and dirty. Can only vote on basis of the first two. Note, barrel on the abb screw gate disintergrated, could do with some tat replacement.

with Paul Smith
Hidden ??/2013 -
Andy Chadwick ??/2013 -
andybirtwistle ??/2013 -
andybirtwistle ??/2013 -
neilh ??/2013 -
treg 10/Sep/12 AltLd dog

Led P2&4. In the rain, but after a dry spell. I can imagine it would be a whole different proposition if it was seeping more. Made it hard to start with by having my feet in the break so took a decent tumble down the undergrowth on P2. The fifth pitch seemed harder than the fourth. Some fun with the ropes and the wade in made for a memorable day.

with Dan Osbaldeston
DanOsb 10/Sep/12 Lead O/S

lead pitches 1, 3 and 5. it was raining lightly throughout the day and we didnt even notice it most of the time. matt took a little slip at the start of the 2nd pitch into the undergrowth, other than that no problems occured. P5 had some nice moves on the left wall, bit of sludgy seep before that to overcome though which was fun. great day out all in all, exept for the little issue with ropes at the end, creatively overcome though.

pebbles 09/Sep/12 2nd

awesome route, if a bit polished in places. led access pitch via doggone groove only as have completely lost my trad limestone head

with guido
ChrisBrooke 08/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

Full version but lead the traverse in three rather than four pitches. Massively enjoyable with some very photogenic views of leader/second. If only I'd brought my camera! Pretty much bone dry after a week of dry weather. Bring sandals for the river crossing.

with Duncan Bell
Jake Young 22/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
with Jo Hiley
JHiley 22/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Long version, 5 pitches, lead P2 and P4. Completely missed a heavy downpour but nearly decapitated by a startled pigeon.

Oceanic 12/Aug/12 -
Hidden ?/Jul/12 Lead
cheeky 26/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

Was very wet in places, and had to lower off in the middle of pitch 5. Lots of disgusting birds nests in break which was all mixed with the water to make a toxic smelling cocktail.

mark4344 26/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

climbed after heavy rain. pitch 1 wet and slipery. pitches 2,3,and 4 fairly dry and sheltered with some wet streaks. had to abandon pitch 5 as too wet and slippery.climbing good fun to do a big route in peaks. quite vegetated and had to wade the river to get in and out. top adventure!

with Matt Payne
Hidden 20/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
Jonathan Hall 20/Jun/12 AltLd

Lead P2 and P4. Brilliant and sorry to the jackdaw that took its first flight!

spragglerocks 26/May/12 AltLd O/S

Led P1 and P3 and the start of P5

Hoyes 26/May/12 AltLd β

Best VS in the Peak?

Hidden 01/Apr/12 AltLd
Stewart Armstrong ??/2012 -
Stewart Armstrong ??/2012 -
JonG ??/2012 -
JonG ??/2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
DanH9883 ??/2012 Lead
with Julia
Steven Carter ??/2012 Lead O/S
Brannock 19/Sep/11 AltLd O/S

Nice last pitch, shame about all the bushwacking to get there.

OffshoreAndy ?/Sep/11 Lead O/S

Not really worth the effort.

with UKC John
Hidden 22/Aug/11 2nd
chiverstom 22/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hoyes 16/Aug/11 AltLd dnf

Started up Doggone Groove. Climbed three pitches to a thick-wire belay. Retreated in fading light. Next pitch past Alfresco looked most interesting, must return.

Hidden 02/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
belay bunny turned bad 25/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
with loundsy
Hidden 25/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 23/Jul/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 23/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
i.fish2000 23/Jul/11 2nd
with Martin Wing
jamesgodwin64 02/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with chris fox
M_W_Court 17/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Kitty Court
rikbattye 03/Jun/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 13/May/11 Lead O/S
caradoc 01/May/11 AltLd
with john b
Andy Peak 1 07/Apr/11 AltLd
with kenney
thekendo 07/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
JEP ??/2011 -
ColinD ??/2011 -
Glenn Sutcliffe ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
adie84 ??/2011 -
alasdair19 ??/2011 -

with fireman

cymjt ??/2011 -
LittleClimbingMaria 05/Sep/10 -
Hidden 05/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 31/Jul/10 AltLd
Graeme Hammond 17/Jul/10 AltLd rpt

Excellent, led pitches 2 & 4

with Jim
Jim Slater 17/Jul/10 AltLd O/S

Great climb. Climb gets better and better the further you go.

Hidden 03/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 03/Jul/10 AltLd
Dan Lane 28/Jun/10 AltLd dnf

we abseiled from the end of P2 because it was deemed too hot. I led P1 up the chopper and Dan did the 2nd pitch. definatly one to go back for.

tom.e 02/May/10 AltLd O/S

moved together clipping the in situ belays, with one stance when the quickdraws ran out.

with Malcolm
Pown 02/May/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 24/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
metal arms 24/Apr/10 AltLd O/S

1, 3 & 5

Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
LittleClimbingMaria ??/2010 -
Ken Taylor ??/2010 -
Hidden 27/Aug/09 AltLd dnf
Hidden 14/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
JGW ?/Jul/09 AltLd

MT led crux pitch

with Matt Tilley
jcurley 26/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
simonp ?/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
with Ivan Green
RCrockford 25/Apr/09 AltLd O/S

The Chopper start.

with Chris F
KeithW 22/Apr/09 AltLd O/S

Did the Doggone Start. Led that & the odd-number pitches. Superb moves & situation, excellent weather.

with Guido
Graeme Hammond 22/Apr/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22/Apr/09 -
Brown 17/Mar/09 AltLd O/S

In dark after work. Quite a lot of seapage.

with John
Different Steve 26/Aug/08 AltLd O/S

Good fun!

with Guy Reid
Sankey 08/Aug/08 AltLd

Approached via Doggone, so lead P2 and P4 (crux). Superb expedition, situations improve all the way along. Quite pumpy at the end.

with Andy E
andyebbens 08/Aug/08 AltLd
with Steve E
@ndy 23/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
Calder 23/Jun/08 AltLd O/S

What a great route! Made use of an additional 'belay' on P4, and was a little wobbly (bloody desperate more like!) on the last pitch. Led P2 & P4.

with Ste
stemill 23/Jun/08 AltLd O/S

With a cheeky rest on P4. Great route, a proper adventure.

with Graham
jeffb 23/Jun/08 AltLd dog

Brilliant route spoiled only by lack of talent on my part.....!Six of us on the route - Jonah and Andy C - Graham and Ste and me and Andy G - a proper good day.. Cheers boys..!

with andy g
Hidden ?/Jun/08 AltLd
Hidden 30/May/08 AltLd O/S
butterworthtom 21/May/08 AltLd O/S

Nice fun route, feels like a bit of an adventure. Met a birds nest on pitch 4 and they all started squaking at me which added to the excitement. I thought it was quite easy for vs.

with Dave Naylor
Hidden 21/May/08 Lead O/S
chrishedgehog ?/Apr/08 AltLd O/S

Not to be underestimated at VS if it's drizzling, seeping or both!

with Erwin Bottomley
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden 01/Nov/07 AltLd O/S
Matthallinan 01/Nov/07 AltLd
with Paul Winder
five 01/Oct/07 AltLd O/S
with JT
Hidden 15/Sep/07 AltLd O/S
PenJD 12/Sep/07 AltLd O/S

4b, 4b, 4a, 5a and 4c. I lead pitches 1,3 and 5. Awesome route!!!

Hidden 12/Sep/07 AltLd
Hidden 28/Jul/07 AltLd O/S
Rich Mayfield 28/Jul/07 AltLd
Somerset swede basher 09/May/07 AltLd O/S

All very pleasant. Lead pitches 2 and 4.

with Nick Selmes
Hidden 18/Sep/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden 18/Sep/06 AltLd O/S
Neil Ireson 14/Jul/06 AltLd

One of the most enjoyable routes I've climbed in the Peak.

with Jane
Hidden 08/Jul/06 AltLd
Brian Rodgers ??/2005 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2005 AltLd O/S
Gustav ??/2005 AltLd O/S
with Nick S
Hidden ?/Jun/02 AltLd
Hidden ??/2002 Lead
nige pacer ?/Sep/01 AltLd O/S
Hidden 27/Jun/01 Lead
TonyF ?/May/00 AltLd
with Alistair Gordon
tuftynick ??/2000 Lead
Hidden ??/2000 -
marcoleptic ??/2000 AltLd O/S

Done several times

with Ben
Hidden 03/Aug/99 AltLd
Phill Mitch ??/1998 Lead O/S
phardman 20/Jul/97 -
Billg ??/1995 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1995 -
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IanGilbertJones 24/Aug/94 Lead O/S
leathers 13/Sep/93 AltLd O/S
with Ian Hirst
Hidden ??/1993 AltLd
richparry ??/1992 -
Hidden 17/Jul/91 AltLd
mattnuttall 06/Jun/90 AltLd
with Alan Holden
RichardMc 28/May/90 AltLd
with Angel Vila
philhilo ??/1990 -
philhilo ??/1990 -
Steve Lenartowicz ??/1990 -
Gary Coggon ??/1990 AltLd O/S

Around 1990?

with Mike Block
Hidden ??/1990 AltLd
Gambit ??/1989 Lead O/S
with Barney
Hidden 19/Nov/88 AltLd
babymoac 24/Sep/88 AltLd
with Chris B
goi.ashmore 09/Jun/88 Lead O/S

Without a harness!

with Dave Forster, Ken Padgett
scree ?/May/87 -
with Dave H
MikeYouCanClimb 15/Mar/86 AltLd
with Dave Dowson
William Robertson ??/1986 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
andy tetsill ?/Oct/85 Lead
with Ian Bennet,
Billg 03/Aug/85 AltLd
with Dave Gregory
andy gittins ??/1985 -
Hidden ??/1985 AltLd
Hidden 21/Jul/84 2nd
Hidden 02/Jun/84 AltLd
malc 29/Apr/84 AltLd
with T Grey
Gezzer ??/1984 -
with Derek Shaw
Hidden 25/Sep/83 AltLd O/S
Martin Haworth ?/Sep/83 AltLd O/S
with tim wright
Ian Jones ??/1983 -
with Rich Lewis, Robert Kieske, Mick Ward, Karen Ghiselli
Hidden 22/Oct/82 AltLd
charlesmfrench 09/Apr/82 AltLd


Mike Owen 16/Aug/80 -
with Elaine Watson
Ghastly Rubberfeet ??/1980 Lead
Chris Craggs ??/1980 -
KRB 25/Aug/79 AltLd O/S

An excellent classic done in the days when we were less likely to annoy upward traffic. A great excursion.

with Mike Bridges
Nevil ?/Aug/79 AltLd
rogerskews ??/1979 AltLd

Climbed on a single rope, it was too short to ab off the tree, so we continued the traverse (Rarely repeated I suspect) fighting manfully through amazonian jungle, with carnivorous wildlife delighted to feed on us, and eventually appearing somewhere and a thruchy scramble to the top. Character building !!

with Martin Coward
mike bridges 01/Jul/78 AltLd O/S

A superb route,the best route I ever did with Martin.Began 2nd and finished lead,just did long run outs & belayed.

with Martin Veale
Rob Davies ??/1978 Lead

Angus & Graham were following until Graham fell off and was lowered all the way to the ground

with John Pethica
Mark Kemball 04/Jul/77 AltLd
with George Mumford
Hidden ??/1977 AltLd
Chris Terrey ??/1977 AltLd
with Chris Lloyd
Nigel Bond 12/Jun/76 AltLd
with Andy Brown
mikej 16/May/76 AltLd
with Mike Byles
Marcus ??/1976 -
Derek Ryden ??/1976 AltLd O/S
with Andy Douse
GeoffG 20/Dec/75 AltLd
with tony bowker
GeoffG ?/Dec/75 AltLd
with tony bowker
Hidden 08/Nov/75 AltLd
petemeads 19/May/75 Lead
Hidden 04/Apr/75 AltLd
Gordon Stainforth 02/Mar/75 Lead
with Mick Papworth, Pete McNulty
uphillnow ??/1975 2nd

Followed Steve. Climbed on many occasions since

with Steve Foster
Andy Edgar ??/1975 -
mikej 11/Aug/73 AltLd
with Ian Vaughan
RichardMc ??/1973 AltLd O/S

Started up first pitch of Chopper

with Ken Salter
tapley 09/Jul/72 Lead
with Alex George
lump'o'lead ??/1971 -

Finished by abbing into huge stinging nettle patch...

with Jeremy Nightingale
jcw 25/May/70 AltLd
with Lindsay Griffin
Dave Westby ??/1970 Lead O/S
with Phil Caley
rogerskews ??/1970 -

Peacefully quiet in those days

with Keith Jenkins
bob@daysmill ??/1970 AltLd O/S

Finished in the dark

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High HVS
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High 5b
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Votes cast 42
Votes cast 42
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