John Peel*** HVS 5a
[John Peel, 3 kb]40m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Another classic, taking a long diagonal line and giving strenuous but well-protected climbing with good rests.
1) 5a, 25m. From a large tree in the gully, trend left to reach the base of the crack (junction with George) then climb it as it leans over. Traverse right and climb up to a tiny stance.
2) 5a, 25m. Continue in the same line to where the mighty yew used to be, and finish leftwards to the ridge or abseil from the fixed gear attached to the tree's remains. © ROCKFAX

FA. Pete (Trog) WIlliams, John (who peeled) Amies 1964

Ticklists: Classic Rock Climbs In Northern England by Bill Birket, World Graded List, Peak Rock/10/White Life, Ultimate HVS ticklist.

Photo: John Peel © jimbonfire
View all 3 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 156 logbooks, and on 20 wishlists.

Gympaul - Lead - 04/Oct/15

a beast! started up george took a whipper lowered back to the tree. Chris took a long penduluming fall on second paul was the only person who got up it clean. real good climb tho
admackie - Lead RP - 19/Sep/15 with paul renwick, chris palmer

sopaz - 2nd - 19/Sep/15 with Mackie

Note to self - having not climbed outside for close to a year..start on something easy to warm up! Start was full of nettles and other greenery, so started by the base of Yew Tree Wall and took a long traverse left. Should have gone straight up the start of George, but that was also looking like a shrubbery. By the time I made it to the point where the JP fault line breaks back right, I was completely spent and feeling very exposed (far too little time on rock this year). After much talking to, I made a very ugly retreat sacrificing gear in a bomber placement as a lone bit of security.
brolte - Lead dnf - 13/Sep/15 with Ian Fergusson

amccann - AltLd O/S - 12/Aug/15 with Harry Lewis

harry_lewis - AltLd O/S - 12/Aug/15 with Alex McCann

BTphonehome - Lead O/S - 19/Jul/15 with Kasha

kasha_gregson - 2nd - 18/Jul/15 with Bram

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Jun/15

jimbonfire - 30/May/15

tricky move at the start, long right leg is helpful!
spidey - AltLd - 30/May/15 with Jimmy

quite full on for hvs but defo not e1. Couple of hard sections and the foot holds can be hard to spot which caused me to get unnecessarily pumped. hard for 5a but not quite 5b.
jmills94 - 2nd O/S - 28/May/15 with Neil McCallister

Chossy Start
Compo - Lead O/S - 24/May/15 with Kev Faux

Didn't feel this one all that much.
Kevster - 2nd - 24/May/15 with jon C

Repeat lead, early '90s.
jshields - Lead - 16/May/15 with Dave Sargent

davewsargent - 2nd - 16/May/15 with jon shields

With a direct start via George (George Peel, HVS 5b?). I needed a very tight rope in places on the lower section as the rain had by then begun to set in and make the rock very slippery.
cem - 2nd rpt - 25/Oct/14 with Kirill Spiridonov

Started via George as the traverse start looked a bit chossy. Reading other people's comments it seems to be the common way of doing it. The guidebook description refers to a large tree in the gully. We couldn't find it. It's gone presumably.
Kirill - Lead β - 25/Oct/14 with Charles Moreton

Merlin - 2nd dog - 28/Sep/14 with Jonathon Percival, Dave Tait

Fragmod - 2nd - 01/Jul/14

Tim Rodgers - Lead - 30/Jun/14 with Mike Lea

DanielGyi - 2nd O/S - 26/Jun/14 with James Oakes, Gareth Hooson

petegunn - 2nd - 06/Jun/14 with Davina

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/14

JasTaplin - 2nd - 01/Jun/14 with Jonathan Wells

J.Wells - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/14 with Jasmine Taplin

I lead this with Mike about 10 years ago. Still feels as hard as I remembered it, even seconding.
madasten - 2nd rpt - 31/May/14 with Gaz

ColinD - Lead - 31/May/14 with Craig

john lynch - Lead O/S - 29/Apr/14 with Lewis Andrew

Hidden - 2014

j.buckley87 - Lead O/S - 06/Oct/13

Harder than Brutus.Abbed off at lower off.
Andrew Sloan - Lead O/S - 10/Aug/13 with Martin Haworth

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Jul/13

Fell off at the start of the traverse, swung a good 6m. Good fun, but meant I didn't get to finish the route.
alp79 - 2nd - 27/Jul/13 with Jonny Ashton

thanks to Sam for donating the three star pitch ad taking the choss !!
ashtond6 - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/13

1st pitch only. The start ramp is overgrown so started direct (as for George) this is possibly 5b. Parts of the traverse are full on for HVS, but not E1!
tatz45 - Lead O/S - 27/May/13 with Katy Vose

SW P1 - I did P2 (went totally wrong way and had a loose epic)
odox - AltLd O/S - 06/Apr/13 with Sam Webb

Started up George and linked into one pitch.
GrantB - Lead - 07/Sep/12 with El Bailos

JEP - 2nd rpt - 18/Aug/12

Started up George. Pretty strenuous but v good. Remember to move up at the end!
Batt - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/12 with Dan

P1 only
Chris Manasseh - 2nd - 28/Jul/12 with Ste Millington

Abbed off after first pitch. Must not have found those good rests as I was pumped to buggery!
stemill - Lead dnf - 28/Jul/12 with Chris Manasseh

Aimed for George, but could not find where to establish its headwall (we later found the topo in RockFax new Peak Limestone guidebook was very wrong!), hence finished on this route (P1), and abbed off. Added a sling for the ab anchors. Judging from the overgrown ground, I guess there was not much traffic in this area lately.
masa-alpin - Lead rpt - 15/Jul/12 with Lee P, Andy Rich

Difficult but enjoyable but only reached first belay point, due to sunset. I found entering Crag from the far right hand side was the easiest method and no barbed wire from that angle either.
Pixie-Andy - 2nd dog - 15/Jul/12 with Masa

I did the start of George which made it feel quite hard for HVS. Great route though
Alex@home - Lead O/S - 22/May/12 with The Doctor

Grand of route, felt pretty hard but i htink i just did half of the moves completely wrong! The yew tree is in a dire state...i climbed up about 4 metres above the yew to a tree which looked vaguely alive. What a pile of crap on that belay! cut all the tat off and get rid of the manky old wires, double bolt belay anyone?
Dan Lane - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/12 with Martin Kocsis

Martin Haworth - Lead O/S - 10/Mar/12 with John Brannock

Brannock - 2nd rpt - 10/Mar/12

PAJames - 2012

Tony Kartawick - 2012

cymjt - 2012

Hidden - 2nd - 23/Oct/11

Just climbed up to the in situ gear and lowered cause it was raining. Superb climb, nice exposure and good gear. Approach is pretty rotten but work it.
climbinmunkey - 02/Oct/11 with Ken, Helen

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Oct/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 01/Oct/11

Chris Plant - Lead - Oct/11

Stoney Boy - AltLd O/S - 06/Aug/11 with Nick Conway

marcoleptic - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/11 with Andy Shep

bigdrew - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/11 with Mark R

mark20 - 2nd O/S - 05/Jun/11

Might have started up George, which felt quite hard!
victim of mathematics - 2nd O/S - 25/May/11 with Dom

biobuild - 2nd O/S - 23/May/11

Dizz - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/11 with David B

Tim Brookes - Lead - 10/Apr/11

Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 02/Oct/10 with john Bramwell

Ahab - 2nd - 02/Oct/10

drysori - 2nd - 15/Aug/10 with brannock

Brannock - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/10

Hidden - Lead - 26/Jun/10

felt exposed seconding
caradoc - 2nd - 19/Jun/10 with john b

rikbattye - Lead O/S - 19/May/10 with natalie28

Did "george" start and joined John Peel at the part where it crosses over.
natalie28 - 2nd - 19/May/10 with Rik

went up, came back down, went up again. Awesome climbing, abbed of the yew tree.
richardhopton - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/10 with Matt Thombs

Hidden - Lead - 2010

Seymore Butt - 2010

The final scramble is pretty loose and overgrown. Better to make use of the in situ lower offs.
jimdanson - AltLd - 12/Sep/09 with dan middleton

danm - AltLd - 12/Sep/09 with Jim Danson

Delicately does it - wasn't strenuous but had to get the feet right. Stopped at the first stance on the traverse as forgot that the pitch actually carried on for another 5 metres to the yew tree stump. Interesting ropework.
Misha - Lead O/S - 05/Sep/09

Brown - 2nd O/S - 22/Aug/09 with James T

metal arms - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/09

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 31/May/09

Long sustained 5a climbing, excellent but tough going.
Jim Slater - Lead O/S - 31/May/09 with Alan Smith

odox - Lead - 24/May/09 with Andy Birtwistle

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/May/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/Apr/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Mar/09

BallsofBritishSteel - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/08 with Charles

cem - 2nd rpt - 24/Aug/08 with Rob Truckle

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/08

masa-alpin - Lead O/S - 28/Jun/08 with Brian Q

Brian Rodgers - 2nd - 11/Jun/08 with Phil Leng

Hidden - Lead - 21/May/08

Hidden - 2008

juza - Lead O/S - 18/Jul/07 with John P

Ropeboy - Lead - 15/Apr/07

baltic :( Not a good day for climbing, couldnt feel anything. Neil had to come down from crux once too.
Si dH - 2nd dog - 18/Nov/06 with Neil Furniss

chrishedgehog - Lead O/S - 11/Oct/05 with Erwin Bottomley

Done in three pitches - better to ab off
Chris the Tall - AltLd - 15/Jul/05 with Simon Shaw

For first pitch, started up George
BruceW - AltLd O/S - Aug/04 with Al D.

PenJD - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/03 with Tony Heron

hard 2nd pitch
nickdonohue - 2nd - Jun/03 with Jim Barradale

Le Chevalier Mal Fet - AltLd - May/03 with Richard Bower

Phill Mitch - Lead O/S - 2003 with john d

Dave Bond - Lead O/S - 2003 with gemma

phardman - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/00

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2000

P1 only. Also several times since
cem - Lead rpt - 04/Sep/99 with John Smith

Led p2
cem - AltLd O/S - 15/Aug/99 with Graham Dolman

Hidden - AltLd - 12/Jun/98

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/96

In 1995 I thought it "pants"
andy_pemberton - Lead - Oct/95

nickcanute - Lead - 1995

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Aug/94

IanGilbertJones - Lead dog - 31/Aug/93

leathers - Lead O/S - 27/Jun/93 with Burt

Rog Wilko - Lead - Jun/93 with Debbie Wilkinson

Hidden - AltLd - 20/Sep/92

Mick King - 2nd - 31/Jul/92 with Simon Walsh

Roget - AltLd O/S - 21/Mar/92 with Jonathan T

nai - Lead - 1992

andrew300169 - Lead O/S - 1992 with Pom

tlr - Lead - 04/Aug/91 with Pom

Hidden - Lead - Aug/91

Ena - 21/Jul/91 with Martin Trouse

Mike? 91?
Gary Coggon - AltLd O/S - 1991 with Mike Block

RichardMc - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/90 with Dave Cooper

Steve Lenartowicz - 1990

Andy Edgar - Lead O/S - 1990 with Hugh Woodland

I think Ihad lead it before this
uphillnow - 2nd - 15/Oct/89

babymoac - 2nd - 11/Jun/89 with Dave P, Vic L

andy@ark - 2nd - Jun/89 with Quentin Heliwell

Babika - 2nd - 10/Apr/89 with Mark Jones

John Marsland - Lead - 30/Aug/87 with Paul

tapley - Lead - 08/Jul/87 with Tony Raphael

Hidden - Lead - 02/Jul/87

TonyF - 01/May/85

andy gittins - 1985

Hidden - AltLd - 06/Oct/84

John Marsland - Lead - 21/Jul/84 with Dave Mould

Hidden - AltLd - 16/Jun/84

shark - AltLd O/S - 09/Jun/84 with Phill Dickens

Simon2005 - 2nd - 1984 with JimB

AlanLittle - AltLd - 1984 with Carl Blakeley

charlesmfrench - AltLd O/S - 24/Sep/83

Andy Stephenson - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/82 with Chris Plant

MikeDowsett - 2nd - 1981

Hidden - Jul/80

Ken Taylor - AltLd - 20/Oct/78 with Andy Bond, Neil Williams

Hidden - Lead O/S - Oct/78

rogerskews - AltLd - 14/Jun/78 with John Hall

GeoffG - Lead - 09/Oct/77 with tony bowker

Too hard or bad har day. Fell both pitches seconding and leading! but got back on and completed eventually.
jmr - AltLd - Sep/77 with Gerry Ashton

Nigel Bond - AltLd - 13/Sep/75 with Ben Foord

I lead the first pitch of Black Flip
Derek Ryden - AltLd O/S - 1975 with Martin Smith

mikej - Lead - 09/Oct/71 with E

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
suffolknick, DanChad, dunk3607, mapperley samurai, TomRiddelsdell, hutchay, mickyv33, sting, gavinpeach, Steve Waters, Mynydd, Calder, Dave Mason, iceaxejuggler, jumpingjimminy

Total votes cast 135
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