Staffordshire > Dovedale Church (Dovedale) >
Anaconda** HVS 5b

Adjacent Climbs
<< Tales of the Riverbank
Phil's Route >>
30m. A good climbs that snakes about less than you might be expecting. Bridge and jam the long groove up to the overhang then pass this with difficulty to gain the continuation corner. Continue up the crack, eventually stepping right to finish on the grassy crest. There are abseil anchors up there, honest. © ROCKFAX
FA. Roy Leeming (1pt aid) 1965

Ticklists: Peak Rock/10/White Life.

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This climb is in 29 logbooks, and on 3 wishlists.

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/13

Hidden - Lead - 22/May/12

great moves to get round the lip. would be close to 3* if it wasn't for the grotty finish. can't be far off E1
Alex@home - Lead O/S - 22/May/12 with The Doctor

Hidden - 2012

Got shut down big style. I'm going to be back when i've learned how to jam better. Got some nice bruises from this one.
jayrenegade - Lead dnf - 01/Aug/10 with Luke

i don't remember much beyond the maddening throb emanating from the lump on my head after having smacked into a sharp rock while attempting to swing jamie across to his gear earlier in the day. i had a go for the sake of it - to no avail. jamie wont let this one lie. we'll be back.
lukas richardo - Lead dnf - Aug/10 with jamie

Hidden - Lead - 2010

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 09/Sep/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/09

Brilliant, juggy and exposed! Never desperate until you reach the grassy summit pushto find the belay tree long gone, good job I carry tat around eh! The walk in is definitely worth the hype...
porridgefan - Lead O/S - 27/Jun/09 with Niall Francis

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 27/Jun/09

Should have done a warmup first - strenuous around the roof!
Different Steve - Lead dog - 30/May/09 with Steve Gray & Carol Fowles

Hidden - 2nd dog - 11/Aug/08

Hidden - 2nd - 30/Jun/08

Vegetated at top
cem - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/08 with Graham Dolman

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 06/Jun/04

Different Steve - 2nd O/S - 2002 with Martin Hore

eric lead 1st pitch which i thought was hard. I lead 2nd which i thought was despearate.
colin milton - AltLd - Jul/01 with eric milton

A scary climb! Access is hard work - 30 min walk in, wade across the river, hack through the stinging nettles, but lovely rock once you get there. Looks very impressive from the tourist path across the river, which is no doubt why we had so many spectators. An easy start takes you quickly up until you get to some terrifying moves around the arete, but some good friend placements if you can hold on that long! Higher up on the climb has 4-5 pitons and other fixed gear - how safe these are is hard to say, but take lots of large nuts/rocks and mid-large hexes if you have them. There is a good belay point with fixed gear on the back side of the rock - climb to the top and then scramble right along the top until you see it. Alternatively, don't find the belay, and spend three hours getting climbers, ropes, gear, etc. unstuck from the top! (ahem)
Nick Smith - UKC - Lead O/S - Jul/97 with Pete Webb

Roget - Lead O/S - 27/Jun/93 with jon

Hidden - 1992

Hidden - 2nd O/S - Jun/90

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/88

Hidden - Lead - 27/Jul/86

charlesmfrench - AltLd O/S - 10/Jun/85

Gezzer - Lead O/S - 1983 with Merv Dudley

Nigel Bond - AltLd - 04/Apr/82 with Charlie Leverton

mikej - 2nd - 20/May/77 with Mike Byles

Nigel Bond - Lead - 10/Jun/76 with Andy Brown

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Hidden, philhilo

Total votes cast 32
hard E10 of 11
E11 of 11
easy E16 of 11
hard HVS2 of 11
HVS1 of 11
easy HVS1 of 11
hard VS0 of 11
VS0 of 11
easy VS0 of 11
hard 5c0 of 11
5c0 of 11
easy 5c0 of 11
hard 5b7 of 11
5b3 of 11
easy 5b1 of 11
hard 5a0 of 11
5a0 of 11
easy 5a0 of 11
3 Stars3 of 10
2 Stars7 of 10
1 Star0 of 10
0 Stars0 of 10
Bag of .....0 of 10
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Style of ascent

Lead16 of 29 (55.2%)
Followed8 of 29 (27.6%)
Alt Leads3 of 29 (10.3%)
Unknown2 of 29 (6.9%)

'Climbed'10 of 29 (34.5%)
clean O/S14 of 29 (48.3%)
clean rpt1 of 29 (3.4%)
dogged2 of 29 (6.9%)
dnf2 of 29 (6.9%)