Rockfax Description
Airy climbing featuring a runout wall and a tricky crux. Start at an area of easy-angled water-washed ledges.
1) 9m. Climb easily up sloping ledges to a long grassy ledge and block-belay on the left.
2) 5a, 22m. From the block, move up slightly left to a thin right-slanting flake-crack. Climb this to its end and then climb the bold wall above to below an overlap with twin pegs on the right. Move right past the pegs and make a tricky move up onto a ledge, 'The Balcony'. A couple of steep moves on good holds gain the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A rising traverse to the right arete of the orange slab to the right of the Fortress. 2 pitches but they can be run together although beware of rope drag.

P1: 4b
Begin on the left side of the easy gully (often wet) about 3m right of the start of Traitor's Gate. Scramble up over blocks and grassy ledges to reach a large grassy ledge at the base of the orange slab. Belay on a large boulder.

P2: 5a
Move left along the belay ledge to gain the beginning of the Left to Right diagonal weakness (small wires) and follow to the right arete. Climb the face to a large block on the arete (wires above) and then up and left to gain 2 old pegs (back 'em up). Mantle (tricky when wet) into the niche on the right ands then pull through the bulge above to gain easy ground and the top. Belay on the fence posts.

Variation - P2: 5b
From the two pegs pull up left and then climb through the bulges above.

Ticklists: West Country Climbs.

Jelly Mould Surfer 18/Oct 2nd O/S

Fairly straight forward except the crux, which was a bit nails

Tom Seccombe 31/Jul Lead O/S
with Tom Marshal
Hidden 10/Jul Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Apr TR O/S
Hidden 02/Mar TR O/S
phil lewis 16/Oct/14 TR O/S
rubywaterfield 25/Sep/14 TR O/S
dannibunt 25/Sep/14 TR O/S
Hidden 30/Nov/13 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/13 2nd rpt
chrisdevon 24/Jun/13 2nd

The crux is... amazing. Nice climb.

with Mike
Hidden ?/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Sep/12 Solo rpt
Mark Kemball 18/Sep/12 Lead
Hidden 06/Sep/12 Solo rpt
tim.fairhall 26/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Hui
SurfingRock 24/Jun/12 TR
Hidden 07/Apr/12 2nd O/S
jack 9895 27/Mar/12 2nd O/S
Robin Hall 02/Mar/12 TR O/S
Spearos 01/Mar/12 2nd O/S
with Mike
climbhannahclimb 02/Oct/11 TR
with Sam Burton
pete3685 30/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 30/Jul/11 2nd
Frostie 30/Jul/11 Lead
chris ebbutt 15/Jun/11 Lead
with Mike
DCIGadget 15/Jun/11 TR O/S

top route thanks chris

with Dave Coley, mike reading, chris ebbutt
nickdonohue ?/Jun/11 2nd
with Chris Ebbutt
Pricey06 ?/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2011 Lead
minexplorer 09/Sep/10 Lead

easy but careful climbing due to run out.crux well tricky but well a great sense of satisfaction

with grant newcombe
Paragonthewise 09/Sep/10 2nd

great climb, was the last of our 2 days at the cheesering, Rad had been wanting to to it for a while, i have not done many hvs 5a's but i gave it a go, fairly easy going up till the crux, took a while but got over eventually

mike hooper 04/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

top section after the peg.treverse right WOW what a move made me twitch..:)

with robin frazer
Hidden 03/Sep/10 2nd
minexplorer 17/Aug/10 TR

self belay with grigri.a bit runout in middle(good holds tho)well protected crux was satisfying sussing the 5a moves.lookin fward to leading.

JonHarvey 09/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Nice route, good holds all the way with a nice little crux move near the top :-)

Hidden 09/Jun/10 2nd rpt
mackem 10/May/10 -

top rope solo last move is quite tricky

Hidden 10/May/10 Lead
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden 27/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Sep/09 2nd O/S
culmclimberRob 25/Sep/09 Lead O/S

great route!!!

rockferret 02/May/09 Lead rpt
with Phil and Pedro
pedro.silva 02/May/09 2nd O/S
with Martin B, Phil
Phil79 02/May/09 2nd O/S
with Pedro & Rockferret
Hidden 20/Sep/08 Lead O/S
rockferret 20/Sep/08 2nd O/S
with Pete
The Green Giant 18/Jun/08 2nd rpt
with Mossy, Plug
Marti999 02/Sep/07 2nd O/S
with Tom Thorp
trev_f 02/Sep/07 TR O/S
with Martin
Frostie ?/Jun/99 Lead
with Adrain Turner
Hidden 18/Jun/86 2nd
D Tempest ?/Mar/78 AltLd
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 10
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 10
Votes cast 9
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set