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Juliet's Balcony HVS 5a

Adjacent Climbs
<< Sarah Louise
 
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[ohhh yes it was dryer than the last time., 1 kb]Airy climbing featuring a runout wall and a tricky crux. Start at an area of easy-angled water-washed ledges.. 1) 9m. Climb easily up sloping ledges to a long grassy ledge and block-belay on the left.. 2) 5a, 22m. From the block, move up slightly left to a thin right-slanting flake-crack. Climb this to its end and then climb the bold wall above to below an overlap with twin pegs on the right. Move right past the pegs and make a tricky move up onto a ledge, 'The Balcony'. A couple of steep moves on good holds gain the top. © ROCKFAX
A rising traverse to the right arete of the orange slab to the right of the Fortress. 2 pitches but they can be run together although beware of rope drag. P1: 4b Begin on the left side of the easy gully (often wet) about 3m right of the start of Traitor's Gate. Scramble up over blocks and grassy ledges to reach a large grassy ledge at the base of the orange slab. Belay on a large boulder. P2: 5a Move left along the belay ledge to gain the beginning of the Left to Right diagonal weakness (small wires) and follow to the right arete. Climb the face to a large block on the arete (wires above) and then up and left to gain 2 old pegs (back 'em up). Mantle (tricky when wet) into the niche on the right ands then pull through the bulge above to gain easy ground and the top. Belay on the fence posts. Variation - P2: 5b From the two pegs pull up left and then climb through the bulges above.

Ticklists: West Country Climbs.

Photo: ohhh yes it was dryer than the last time. © mike hooper
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 44 logbooks, and on no wishlists.

Soloed the first pitch to the ledge. Really enjoyed the runout slab. Would have been nicer if the pegs at the top weren't so rusty
Chris Joyce - Lead O/S - 30/Nov/13 with Danya Schwerfeger

Cheesewring has no easy routes!
Cheesewring - 2nd rpt - Jul/13 with rich c

Hidden - 2nd - 24/Jun/13

NaCl - Lead O/S - Jun/13

Hidden - Solo rpt - 29/Sep/12

Mark Kemball - Lead - 18/Sep/12 with Matt Thompson

Hidden - Solo rpt - 06/Sep/12

SurfingRock - TR - 24/Jun/12

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 07/Apr/12

jack 9895 - 2nd O/S - 27/Mar/12

Robin Hall - TR O/S - 02/Mar/12

Spearos - 2nd O/S - 01/Mar/12 with Mike

climbhannahclimb - TR - 02/Oct/11 with Sam Burton

pete3685 - AltLd O/S - 30/Aug/11

Hidden - 2nd - 30/Jul/11

Hidden - Lead - 30/Jul/11

chris ebbutt - Lead - 15/Jun/11 with Mike

top route thanks chris
DCIGadget - TR O/S - 15/Jun/11 with Dave Coley, mike reading, chris ebbutt

nickdonohue - 2nd - Jun/11 with Chris Ebbutt

Pricey06 - Lead O/S - Apr/11

Hidden - Lead - 2011

easy but careful climbing due to run out.crux well tricky but well protected.gives a great sense of satisfaction
minexplorer - Lead - 09/Sep/10 with grant newcombe

great climb, was the last of our 2 days at the cheesering, Rad had been wanting to to it for a while, i have not done many hvs 5a's but i gave it a go, fairly easy going up till the crux, took a while but got over eventually
Paragonthewise - 2nd - 09/Sep/10

top section after the peg.treverse right WOW what a move made me twitch..:)
mike hooper - AltLd O/S - 04/Sep/10 with robin frazer

Hidden - 2nd - 03/Sep/10

self belay with grigri.a bit runout in middle(good holds tho)well protected crux was satisfying sussing the 5a moves.lookin fward to leading.
minexplorer - TR - 17/Aug/10

Nice route, good holds all the way with a nice little crux move near the top :-)
JonHarvey - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/10 with Jay Jackson

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 09/Jun/10

top rope solo last move is quite tricky
mackem - 10/May/10

Hidden - Lead - 10/May/10

Hidden - 2010

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/09

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 27/Sep/09

great route!!!
culmclimberRob - Lead O/S - 25/Sep/09 with stevieo10

rockferret - Lead rpt - 02/May/09 with Phil and Pedro

pedro.silva - 2nd O/S - 02/May/09 with Martin B, Phil

Phil79 - 2nd O/S - 02/May/09 with Pedro & Rockferret

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/08

rockferret - 2nd O/S - 20/Sep/08 with Pete

The Green Giant - 2nd rpt - 18/Jun/08 with Mossy, Plug

Marti999 - 2nd O/S - 02/Sep/07 with Tom Thorp

trev_f - TR O/S - 02/Sep/07 with Martin

Hidden - Lead - Jun/99

Hidden - 2nd - 18/Jun/86

Voting
Total votes cast 24
hard E10 of 8
E10 of 8
easy E10 of 8
hard HVS2 of 8
HVS5 of 8
easy HVS1 of 8
hard VS0 of 8
VS0 of 8
easy VS0 of 8
hard 5b0 of 8
5b0 of 8
easy 5b0 of 8
hard 5a1 of 8
5a5 of 8
easy 5a2 of 8
hard 4c0 of 8
4c0 of 8
easy 4c0 of 8
3 Stars2 of 8
2 Stars3 of 8
1 Star3 of 8
0 Stars0 of 8
Bag of .....0 of 8
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Style of ascent

Soloed2 of 44 (4.5%)
Lead15 of 44 (34.1%)
Followed17 of 44 (38.6%)
Toproped6 of 44 (13.6%)
Alt Leads2 of 44 (4.5%)
Unknown2 of 44 (4.5%)

'Climbed'18 of 44 (40.9%)
clean O/S20 of 44 (45.5%)
clean rpt6 of 44 (13.6%)