130m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
E3. A magnificent route up the Arete, which has lots of fixed gear of variable quality. A few nuts and threads are helpful to plug the gaps, or back-up the rust!
1) 3, 15m. As for El Dorado.
2) 6a+, 35m. From the sloping ledge, move right, then carefully down-climb to gain a low traverse-line. Follow this awkwardly, staying just above the water (difficult to protect) until it is possible to climb diagonally upwards (don't climb up too soon) to a scoop which leads to the hanging stance on the Arete.
3) 6b+, 45m. Power up the Arete above, first on the left, then on the right. From the diagonal break, either traverse left to gain the grassy ramp and abseil point, or:
4) 5, 40m. Climb up the rib above to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Costa Blanca "Must Do" routes, ROCKFAX Costa Blanca: Top 50.


ClimberDateStyle
LRob 27/Jan Lead
HansStuttgart ?/Jan -

very good route! Failed on the traverse a couple of years ago. This year tried it a few meter higher, once you find the right line, it is OK. The arete is really brilliant climbing

pearson9596 20/Dec/15 AltLd O/S
onlyfoddington 20/Dec/15 2nd dog

I was really pleased I managed to complete the initial traverse and with the effort I gave on the crux pitch. In truth I was not close to being able to cope with the sustained overhanging pitch.

with Michael
Stoney Boy 03/Dec/14 Lead O/S

Pitch 2

with Nick Conway
Nickc ?/Dec/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Dec/13 AltLd O/S
Lunar25 22/Dec/13 AltLd O/S
with Dave LE
Joughton 17/Feb/12 AltLd O/S

Too many bolts on the second pitch to be E3 but the first pitch was serious enough, brilliant route though.

elCapitano 18/Dec/11 2nd

Climbed as a 3 on twin icelines. Pitch 1 and 3 onsight. Clipped into several bolts to rest on Pitch 2.

with Patch, Coatesy
elCapitano 18/Dec/11 Solo rpt

Shallow water solo of pitch 1. Continued to belay for pitch 2 and jumped off. Class, but not safe at the start.

with Patch
Richard P Coates 18/Dec/11 2nd dog
with Patch, ianjfsutcliffe
Glyn 22/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Sun sea and sending..

with Jonny
Hidden 21/Mar/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden 12/Dec/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Feb/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Feb/04 AltLd dnf
Mark Riley ?/Mar/03 Lead O/S
with Stuart Greenall
Hidden ??/2003 Lead O/S
charlesmfrench 30/May/98 AltLd dog
Pedro50 ??/1996 Lead O/S
with Will Hurford
Hidden 28/Jan/95 Lead O/S
whispering nic ?/Jan/93 -
with Ali W
dominic lee 27/Mar/90 Lead O/S

Brilliant. Had a minor epic abseiling back to the beach...

with Dad
Hidden ?/Jan/89 AltLd O/S
6 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
Votes cast 4
Votes cast 4
Style of ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Repeated
Not Set