135m, 5 pitches. Once the longest fully bolted sport route in the UK now the 4th longest to 'Tan y Ddraig' still a great adventure from the very bottom of Twll Mawr to the Top of the Quarryman wall.

Pitch 1 (30m)F6b Climbs the Slab in the corner with some bridging. Clip the high 9th bolt and carefully traverse right avoiding the scree ledge to a double bolt belay.
Pitch 2 (30m)F7a Takes the obvious crack and flake line, easy to start, with a hard move over a bulge near the top to a ledge and double bolt belay where Opening Gambit used to cross.
Pitch 3 (30m)F6b The slab / wall to a ledge at the foot of a short groove and possible belay ledge (2 bolts) continue up the arete past 3 bolts taking you to the 'Matilda Ledge' double bolt belay.
Pitch 4 (25m)F7b+ The immaculate green groove above beckons. A beginners Quarryman groove. 2 bolt belay below Wonderful World of Walt Disney.
Pitch 5 (20m)F7b Belay a few feet further right. Take the flake / crack system up the attractive bulging slab / wall. The thin crack doesn't take fingers very well. Crux is either a high step up right or left take your pick.

NOTE: If you've enjoyed any of the bolted routes in Twll Mawr please consider donating to the North Wales Bolt Fund :-)


Ian Lloyd-Jones and Sion McGuinness 03/Oct/2011

Ticklists: Classic UK F7s, Dinorwic Slate - Multi Pitch Sport Climbs, All the Llanberis SLATE sport @ 7b & 7b+, Slate Sport, The Longest Sport Routes in the UK, Twll Mawr Big Wall 1000 Metre Challenge!.

MischaHY 06/Sep AltLd

Mental. The groove pitch is immense and the upper slab is a classic slate hairline crack/flake. We climbed in the wet and mist with slimy lower pitches. What a wild ride. Got me psyched for the groove next door!

with Kallum
Luke Brooks ?/Aug AltLd

Not quite... rained off the top pitch. Groove pitch is more like 7a+.

with Kate
Glyn 31/Jul AltLd O/S

Fun adventure, grove pitch is seriously impressive. Worth it for this pitch alone, stunning bridging. A few bolts were loose on the lower pitches, worth taking a adjustable spanner to gently tightening on second. Take care with scree and loose rock on lower pitches. Took me a while to find the drilled hole in the rock for the summit belay. Good effort, excellent bolting.

jonleighton 30/Jul AltLd RP

Great fun. Failed to lead the crux pitch via some crazy grovelling beta, managed the red point after Glyn showed me the easier bridging way tho!

Albachoss 21/Mar/15 Lead

Lead the first pitch and alt-lead clean up till the P4 Groove and P5 slab. The groove was nuts and the top slab is proper ard! Quality adventure

with Dougie
dswansonlow 21/Mar/15 Lead dog
with Alex Banks
Hidden 12/Oct/14 AltLd dog
08nbrierley 12/Oct/14 AltLd dog

Lead pitches 2,4 and 5. meant to do desolation of smaug. did it clean till pitch 5 and 6

with jamie
soph 31/Aug/13 AltLd

A great route. Figured out groove pitch but stumped by reachy start on pitch 5.

with Steve Long
Hidden ?/Feb/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 28/Oct/11 AltLd O/S
ian Ll-J 03/Oct/11 Lead

First Ascent in the wind rain and cloud! .....Very memorable.

McGuinness ?/Oct/11 2nd

Awesome stuff!

with Ian ll-j
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