Shrike*** E2 5c
[John Syrett and John Stainforth on Shrike (E1), Cloggy, August 1970, 2 kb]A superbly positioned route with massive exposure from the first move. 1) 5c, 12m. Climb a crack, then traverse left before tricky moves past a peg lead to a stance on ledges above. 2) 5b, 25m. Pull up the groove and over the overhang above, then move left to the arete. Climb up, then back right to the crack. Big holds lead up the exposed wall, move left and finish up the arete and wall to the right. © ROCKFAX
Climbs the superb steep wall via a weaving route on good holds. P1 Climb the left side of the pillar then traverse left to a thin crack which increases in difficulty where a hard move gains good holds then the belay ledge. P2 Jam up the crack to a widening, then traverse left to another crack, climb up then move back right into the original crack. This is climbed until a leftwards traverse leads to the arete for a few moves, then take the wall on the right past spaced gear to the top and hopefully the warmth of the sun.

Ticklists: Great Wall Climbs of the UK, North Wales Rock Graded List, ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales, MIA logbook must haves!, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, Ultimate E2 ticklist, Alex's Wales ticklist, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, The Road to Shibboleth.

Photo: John Syrett and John Stainforth on Shrike (E1), Cloggy, August 1970 © Gordon Stainforth
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 153 logbooks, and on 95 wishlists.

guy757 - 13/Sep/14 with Vic

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Sep/14

Callum_Johnson - AltLd O/S - 22/Jul/14 with Uisdean

Uisdean hawthorn - AltLd O/S - 22/Jul/14 with Callum_Johnson

Robin Nichols - 2nd O/S - 01/Jul/14 with Roger

Roget - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/14 with robin

Led P1. Pitch 2 is absolutely brilliant! Soooo good!
Duncan Campbell - AltLd O/S - 30/Jun/14 with Florence the Machine

P2 Stunning
wi11 - AltLd O/S - 24/Jun/14 with Will S

davewsargent - 2nd - 21/Jun/14 with andy neath

Lead P2.
GPN - AltLd - 21/Jun/14 with Misha

Misha - AltLd O/S - 21/Jun/14 with George

Amzing route. So atmospheric. Really cold area though.
Ally Baba - Lead - 21/Jun/14 with Gav Swinton

tim newton - AltLd O/S - 20/Jun/14 with rachel slater

Pitch 1.
Rachel Slater - AltLd O/S - 20/Jun/14 with Tim Newton

Great route, very atmospheric abseiling down into the cloud to start. I led P1, tricky start with wet rock. Superb second pitch.
Nick Russell - AltLd O/S - 19/Jun/14 with Alastair Begley

technically not quite onsight, as I slipped off the first groove on p1 due to it being soaking and then climbed it ground up. P1 felt hard for E1 5c! Lead P2, what a fantastic pitch :)
alastairbegley - AltLd O/S - 19/Jun/14 with Nick Russell

Very cold down there. Awkward start and very reachy, thin crux where I ran out of gas. Fantastic quality up to there though.
Ian Jones - Lead dnf - 13/Jun/14 with Tim Clarke

Hidden - 2014

Hidden - 2014

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

Hidden - 2014

Allanfairfechan - 2014

harold walmsley - 2nd rpt - 21/Jul/13 with Richard Bissell

drysori - AltLd O/S - 21/Jul/13 with brannock

With Will T, Led first pitch, tough.
Brannock - AltLd - 21/Jul/13

Lead the first pitch with a little hesitation to get gear in before the crux... The traverse left is ace!! Dave lead the second pitch and placed more gear in 30ish metres than I've ever seen. Simply one of the best E2s around.
James Oswald - AltLd O/S - 21/Jul/13 with Kiwi Dave

I led P1, pretty hard move to the jug
Mattlamb90 - AltLd O/S - 20/Jul/13 with Ryan

Julesthe1st - 2nd O/S - 20/Jul/13 with Mike

spidey - AltLd O/S - 20/Jul/13 with mat lamb

soph - Lead rpt - 20/Jul/13 with Lee Cooper

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Jul/13

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 18/Jul/13

Dan Mckinlay - Lead O/S - 17/Jul/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Jul/13

frost - AltLd O/S - 07/Jul/13 with D Almond

Dave Almond - AltLd - 07/Jul/13 with Simon Frost

Brilliant second pitch.
Andrew Barker - AltLd O/S - 07/Jul/13 with Si

1st pitch
Speeddemonsi - AltLd O/S - 07/Jul/13

Ed F - AltLd O/S - 05/Jul/13 with Bubbles

nathanlee - 2nd β - 19/Jun/13 with James Turnbull

lead in one monster pitch. better this way i reckon. Amazing pitch
jamesturnbull - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/13 with nathan lee

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/Jun/13

lead p1
markalmack - AltLd O/S - 08/Jun/13 with chris todd

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/Jun/13

Sam Simpson - AltLd O/S - 07/Jun/13 with Mark Grist

The Grist - AltLd O/S - 07/Jun/13 with Sam Simpson

This is a salutory note to myself more than anything... Obviously the climbing is good (if on somewhat poor rock, especially P1) but getting there 12ish, getting ab ropes stuck, scrambling out and then, despite a glorious day, getting v cold whilst belaying P2 to the extent that we didn't bother with The Axe made for a significant day's effort without great reward; I think I found the setting generally more stressful than I like for cragging and it was the scramble out that probably created this vibe.
ksjs - AltLd O/S - 07/Jun/13 with Joe C

ejected - Lead O/S - 2013

jcw - 2013

Super line high on Cloggy. Did on a nice clear day. Found the route-finding a bit tricky, but if you stick to clean rock and move back to the crack asap on the second pitch it is probably quite straighforward.
Oliver Sherman - AltLd O/S - 08/Sep/12 with Hugh Thomas

Hidden - Sep/12

Rob Pitt - Lead O/S - 28/May/12 with Helen Pitt

Led P1.
Stig - AltLd O/S - 26/May/12 with Chris

chrishedgehog - AltLd O/S - 26/May/12 with James Rees

Absolutely brilliant route. First pitch was dirty but worthwile. Main pitch goes on forever, maybe worth E2 for the exposure and lack of bomber gear in the top third.
Owain Llewelyn - Lead O/S - 23/May/12 with Dan and Kris

Stone Muppet - 2nd O/S - 23/May/12 with Owain, dan ely

dan ely - 2nd O/S - 23/May/12 with crispin, owian

Bob - 2012

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2012

Tony Kartawick - 2012

EagerAndy - Lead O/S - 2012

1st pitch,good holds some a bit creaky but great route
mynyddresident - AltLd O/S - 03/Jul/11 with gareth

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 03/Jul/11

Approach via 3 pitches of rotten rock and vertical grass from top of Llithrig. Me P1, Glynne P2.
theotherpetehill - AltLd O/S - 04/Jun/11

Russell Birkett - AltLd O/S - 03/Jun/11 with Murdoch J

Billg - Lead rpt - 24/Apr/11 with Megan Beaumont

Rory Shaw - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

alasdair19 - 2011

phil64 - 2011

Abbed in and just did top pitch.
Luke Brooks - Lead O/S - 2011 with Konrad Doyle

ewen - AltLd O/S - 21/Jun/10 with neil stabbs

Hidden - 2nd - 04/Jun/10

richiebongo - Lead O/S - 26/May/10 with Gwen Thomson

datoon - AltLd O/S - 23/May/10 with K

khawk - AltLd O/S - 23/May/10 with DT

Led top pitch.
Rich Kirby - AltLd - 22/May/10 with Ed Brown

feilx - Lead O/S - 22/May/10 with Heather

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/Apr/10

zukator - Lead - 2010

centurion05 - 2010

Hidden - 2010

beci tointen - Lead β - Jul/09 with my uncle carl

Seymore Butt - 2009

Hidden - AltLd - 27/Jul/08

jamesturnbull - Lead - Jun/08 with aiden

Julian Wedd - Lead - 2008 with Dave Evans

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2008

Marcus - 2008

Hidden - 2nd - 23/Aug/07

Rob Greenwood - UKC - AltLd O/S - 2007

I on-sighted both pitches
Mark A Humphries - Lead O/S - 17/Jul/06 with Jim

Hidden - AltLd dog - 15/Jul/06

dan gibson - Lead rpt - 10/Jun/06

dan gibson - AltLd O/S - 08/Jun/06 with john nuttal

Boy - 2006

mike lawrence? - 2006

Ian McNeill - 2006

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 31/Jul/05

lead the 2nd pitch
michael burrows - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/05 with rob geaves

nicholas Barrowclough - 2nd - 02/Apr/04 with Norman Clacher

Mark Riley - Lead - Aug/00 with Stuart Greenall

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jul/99

well protected cruxes.seem to remember it a bit run out higher up but climbing was easier.out there,one of my most memorable and exciting climbing days
dickypips - Lead O/S - 1999

Just Another Dave - Lead O/S - 1998 with Jo Bertalot

Hidden - Lead - 1998

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/96

Hidden - Lead - 21/Jul/96

sadams - AltLd - 08/Jun/96 with John Boyle

WB - AltLd O/S - 1996 with Guy

GuyM - 1996

Dave Musgrove Jnr - AltLd - 01/Aug/95 with Nick Ashton

Hidden - 2nd - 06/Jun/93

Paula Hamilton-Gibson - AltLd - May/92 with Paul Kallmes

mark-abz - Lead - 28/Aug/91 with Andy W

Billg - Lead O/S - 1991 with Jon Barton, Dave Gregory

Nigel Coe - 1991 with Tim Dunsby, Ray Mardon

jfletcher - AltLd O/S - 13/Sep/90 with Glen Jones

Paula Hamilton-Gibson - AltLd O/S - Jun/90 with Jean Williamson, Bill Williamson

Led first pitch
Neil R - AltLd - 04/May/90 with Ian

Steve Crowe - Lead O/S - 1990

Pedro50 - AltLd O/S - 17/Jun/89 with Nigel Preston

Hidden - AltLd - Jun/89

Hidden - AltLd - 28/May/89

Hidden - AltLd - 22/May/88

Paul Clarke - AltLd - 1988 with Paul Greenland

Melok - 1985

an exciting traverse to the bottom of the route from the top of Great Wall
neilh - AltLd O/S - 26/Jul/84 with kevin glass

Outstanding route. One of my first climbs on Cloggy
PaulTanton - Lead O/S - Jul/84 with Gwyn Ingman

Mark Kemball - AltLd - 05/Jul/83 with Matt Boyer

Led top pitch with Alan Bennett and Dave Smith. Led first pitch with Tony Lewis on 18 June 1988.
charlesmfrench - AltLd O/S - 03/Jul/83 with Alan Bennett

Mike Owen - 25/Jul/82 with Elaine Owen

Did it 'old style' (three points of aid) with Graham Arnold in about 1975 - best route we did all summer - and we did a lot. Free climbed it with Parky some time in the 1980s.
Chris Craggs - Lead - 1980

andy gittins - 1980

Not sure of the year but I'll never forget the day. Fantastic climbing in a magnificent setting.
Falko - Lead - 1980 with Peter Brashaw

Hidden - Lead - 24/Jul/79

With a guy called Frank ??
Brian Wilderspin - AltLd O/S - 22/Sep/78

granitbahn - AltLd - 1978

Mark Kemball - AltLd - 13/Aug/77 with George Mumford, Sarah Bridge

in those days we used a warthog ice screw as a nut key! paul was last man up and the warthog was sent down the rope to retrieve the last nut. unfortunately it embedded in his hand. we gave the A&E guys the invaluable advice that it was a hit in/unscrew type of implement!!!
GeoffG - AltLd - 09/Jul/77 with paul sharrock, tony bowker

sharpie - AltLd O/S - May/77 with Steve lewis

steve L - 1977

Hidden - AltLd - 19/Apr/76

Hidden - AltLd - 1976

Nigel Bond - 2nd - 02/Aug/75 with Dave Humphries

mikej - AltLd - 02/Sep/69 with Chris Fitzhugh

Climbed with John who led. Since led the route on a number of occasions. On first ascent Ken Wilson was photographing - some pictures in The Black Cliff.
David Smith - AltLd - 17/Jun/67 with John Grieve

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Voting
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