Rockfax Description
A superbly-positioned route with massive exposure from the first move. It is steep, well protected and has plenty of rests. Start about 12m right of the abseil, where a pinnacle rests against the overhangs.
1) 5c, 18m. Climb up the left side of the pinnacle and traverse left below a steepening for 3m to reach a thin crack. Tricky moves up this lead to a stance on ledges above.
2) 5b, 28m. Follow the groove above and pull round the overhang with interest to good holds on the left. These now lead out leftwards towards the arete. Climb up for a few metres before a delicate traverse leads back to the main crack. The crack is short and steep but thankfully blessed with huge holds and spike runners. At its top there is a ledge, traverse out left again to the arete. Climb up before making a few tricky moves back right. A couple of steep and intimidating moves on buckets lead to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Climbs the superb steep wall via a weaving route on good holds.
P1 Climb the left side of the pillar then traverse left to a thin crack which increases in difficulty where a hard move gains good holds then the belay ledge.
P2 Jam up the crack to a widening, then traverse left to another crack, climb up then move back right into the original crack. This is climbed until a leftwards traverse leads to the arete for a few moves, then take the wall on the right past spaced gear to the top and hopefully the warmth of the sun.

Ticklists: Great Wall Climbs of the UK, North Wales Rock Graded List, ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales, MIA logbook must haves!, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, Ultimate E2 ticklist, Alex's Wales ticklist, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, The Road to Shibboleth, Radical Rockcats 2nd Year of Uni Ticklist.

breed 03/Oct/15 AltLd
Ewan Russell 03/Oct/15 AltLd O/S


with Brad
spidermonkey09 16/Sep/15 Lead O/S

The best E2 in Wales? An absolutely stunning route, intimidating but totally covered with jugs. An E2 climbers Right Wall perhaps. Did it in one massive pitch which is perhaps the best experience, but both pitches would be good. Varied climbing- cracks, walls, aretes- and mostly bomber gear, although slightly bold at the top.

Ellie Fuller 16/Sep/15 2nd dog

Wow incredible, it just keeps going! The top pitch doesn't feel easier either!

bede.west 11/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

Oh yes! great route! really glad to do this, first saw this line years ago while walking the Snowdon horse shoe visiting Bangor when I was first starting climbing. Topped out facing directly into the sunset sadly no photo as left camera in my bag rookie error.

with German loui
Dan Vaj 11/Jun/15 2nd O/S
with James Machaffie
Hidden ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
Dave Rumney ??/2015 -
Dave Rumney ??/2015 -
Dave Rumney ??/2015 -
Dave Rumney ??/2015 -
guy757 13/Sep/14 -
with Vic
Hidden 05/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Callum_Johnson 22/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
with Uisdean
Uisdean hawthorn 22/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
Robin Nichols 01/Jul/14 2nd O/S
with Roger
Roget 01/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with robin
Duncan Campbell 30/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Led P1. Pitch 2 is absolutely brilliant! Soooo good!

wi11 24/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

P2 Stunning

with Will S
davewsargent 21/Jun/14 2nd
with andy neath
GPN 21/Jun/14 AltLd

Lead P2.

with Misha
Misha 21/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
with George
Ally Baba 21/Jun/14 Lead

Amzing route. So atmospheric. Really cold area though.

with Gav Swinton
tim newton 20/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
Rachel Slater 20/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Pitch 1.

Nick Russell 19/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Great route, very atmospheric abseiling down into the cloud to start. I led P1, tricky start with wet rock. Superb second pitch.

alastairbegley 19/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

technically not quite onsight, as I slipped off the first groove on p1 due to it being soaking and then climbed it ground up. P1 felt hard for E1 5c! Lead P2, what a fantastic pitch :)

Luxulyan 18/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
with Tom Murrell
Ian Jones 13/Jun/14 Lead dnf

Very cold down there. Awkward start and very reachy, thin crux where I ran out of gas. Fantastic quality up to there though.

with Tim Clarke
Hidden ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
Allanfairfechan ??/2014 -
harold walmsley 21/Jul/13 2nd rpt
with Richard Bissell
drysori 21/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
with brannock
Brannock 21/Jul/13 AltLd

With Will T, Led first pitch, tough.

James Oswald 21/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Lead the first pitch with a little hesitation to get gear in before the crux... The traverse left is ace!! Dave lead the second pitch and placed more gear in 30ish metres than I've ever seen. Simply one of the best E2s around.

with Kiwi Dave
Mattlamb90 20/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

I led P1, pretty hard move to the jug

with Ryan
Julesthe1st 20/Jul/13 2nd O/S
with Mike
spidey 20/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
with mat lamb
soph 20/Jul/13 Lead rpt
with Lee Cooper
Hidden 18/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Jul/13 2nd O/S
Dan Mckinlay 17/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Jul/13 Lead O/S
frost 07/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
with D Almond
Dave Almond 07/Jul/13 AltLd
Andrew Barker 07/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Brilliant second pitch.

with Si
Speeddemonsi 07/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

1st pitch

Hidden 05/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
nathanlee 19/Jun/13 2nd β
The old James turnbull 19/Jun/13 Lead O/S

lead in one monster pitch. better this way i reckon. Amazing pitch

Hidden 08/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
markalmack 08/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

lead p1

Hidden 08/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
Sam Simpson 07/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
Mark Grist 07/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
ksjs 07/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

This is a salutory note to myself more than anything... Obviously the climbing is good (if on somewhat poor rock, especially P1) but getting there 12ish, getting ab ropes stuck, scrambling out and then, despite a glorious day, getting v cold whilst belaying P2 to the extent that we didn't bother with The Axe made for a significant day's effort without great reward; I think I found the setting generally more stressful than I like for cragging and it was the scramble out that probably created this vibe.

with Joe C
ejected ??/2013 Lead O/S
jcw ??/2013 -
Oliver Sherman 08/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

Super line high on Cloggy. Did on a nice clear day. Found the route-finding a bit tricky, but if you stick to clean rock and move back to the crack asap on the second pitch it is probably quite straighforward.

with Hugh Thomas
Hidden ?/Sep/12 -
Rob Pitt 28/May/12 Lead O/S
with Helen Pitt
Stig 26/May/12 AltLd O/S

Led P1.

with Chris
chrishedgehog 26/May/12 AltLd O/S
with James Rees
Owain Llewelyn 23/May/12 Lead O/S

Absolutely brilliant route. First pitch was dirty but worthwile. Main pitch goes on forever, maybe worth E2 for the exposure and lack of bomber gear in the top third.

with Dan and Kris
Stone Muppet 23/May/12 2nd O/S
with Owain, dan ely
dan ely 23/May/12 2nd O/S
with crispin, owian
Bob ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 Lead O/S
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
mynyddresident 03/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

1st pitch,good holds some a bit creaky but great route

with gareth
Hidden 03/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
theotherpetehill 04/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

Approach via 3 pitches of rotten rock and vertical grass from top of Llithrig. Me P1, Glynne P2.

Russell Birkett 03/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
with Murdoch J
Billg 24/Apr/11 Lead rpt
with Megan Beaumont
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
alasdair19 ??/2011 -
phil64 ??/2011 -
Luke Brooks ??/2011 Lead O/S

Abbed in and just did top pitch.

with Konrad Doyle
ewen 21/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
with neil stabbs
Hidden 04/Jun/10 2nd
richiebongo 26/May/10 Lead O/S
with Gwen Thomson
datoon 23/May/10 AltLd O/S
with K
khawk 23/May/10 AltLd O/S
with DT
Rich Kirby 22/May/10 AltLd

Led top pitch.

feilx 22/May/10 Lead O/S
with Heather
Hidden 24/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
zukator ??/2010 Lead
centurion05 ??/2010 Lead O/S
with dave g
Hidden ??/2010 -
beci tointen ?/Jul/09 Lead β
with my uncle carl
Seymore Butt ??/2009 -
Hidden 27/Jul/08 AltLd
The old James turnbull ?/Jun/08 Lead
with aiden
Julian Wedd ??/2008 Lead
with Dave Evans
Hidden ??/2008 AltLd O/S
Marcus ??/2008 -
Hidden 23/Aug/07 2nd
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2007 AltLd O/S
Mark A Humphries 17/Jul/06 Lead O/S

I on-sighted both pitches

with Jim
Hidden 15/Jul/06 AltLd dog
dan gibson 10/Jun/06 Lead rpt
dan gibson 08/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
with john nuttal
Boy ??/2006 -
mike lawrence? ??/2006 -
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
Hidden 31/Jul/05 2nd O/S
michael burrows 12/Jul/05 AltLd O/S

lead the 2nd pitch

with rob geaves
Hidden 11/Jul/05 AltLd
nicholas Barrowclough 02/Apr/04 2nd
with Norman Clacher
Mark Riley ?/Aug/00 Lead
with Stuart Greenall
Hidden ?/Jul/99 AltLd O/S
dickypips ??/1999 Lead O/S

well protected cruxes.seem to remember it a bit run out higher up but climbing was easier.out there,one of my most memorable and exciting climbing days

Just Another Dave ??/1998 Lead O/S
with Jo Bertalot
Hidden ??/1998 Lead
Hidden 21/Jul/96 Lead O/S
steveb2006 21/Jul/96 Lead

A satisfying route to do after The Axe - tired now

with Rob Gambles
sadams 08/Jun/96 AltLd
with John Boyle
WB ??/1996 AltLd O/S
with Guy
GuyM ??/1996 -
Dave Musgrove Jnr 01/Aug/95 AltLd
with Nick Ashton
NickJH ?/Aug/94 AltLd O/S
with SLambert
Hidden 06/Jun/93 2nd
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ?/May/92 AltLd
with Paul Kallmes
mark-abz 28/Aug/91 Lead
with Andy W
Billg ??/1991 Lead O/S
with Jon Barton, Dave Gregory
Nigel Coe ??/1991 -
with Tim Dunsby, Ray Mardon
jfletcher 13/Sep/90 AltLd O/S
with Glen Jones
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ?/Jun/90 AltLd O/S
with Jean Williamson, Bill Williamson
Neil R 04/May/90 AltLd

Led first pitch

with Ian
Steve Crowe ??/1990 Lead O/S
Pedro50 17/Jun/89 AltLd O/S
with Nigel Preston
Hidden ?/Jun/89 AltLd
Hidden 28/May/89 AltLd
steveb2006 22/May/88 AltLd

Mike leads first pitch and I the long second pitch

with Andy Hartog (Hedge), Mike Pycroft
Hidden ??/1988 AltLd
Martin Bennett 13/Jul/87 -
with MT
Hidden 03/Jun/85 AltLd
Hidden ??/1985 -
andybirtwistle 11/Aug/84 Lead O/S
with Ernie Greenwood, Mike Arnold
neilh 26/Jul/84 AltLd O/S

an exciting traverse to the bottom of the route from the top of Great Wall

with kevin glass
PaulTanton ?/Jul/84 Lead O/S

Outstanding route. One of my first climbs on Cloggy

with Gwyn Ingman
Mark Kemball 05/Jul/83 AltLd
with Matt Boyer
charlesmfrench 03/Jul/83 AltLd O/S

Led top pitch with Alan Bennett and Dave Smith. Led first pitch with Tony Lewis on 18 June 1988.

with Alan Bennett
Mike Owen 25/Jul/82 Lead O/S
with Elaine Owen
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead

Did it 'old style' (three points of aid) with Graham Arnold in about 1975 - best route we did all summer - and we did a lot. Free climbed it with Parky some time in the 1980s.

andy gittins ??/1980 -
Falko ??/1980 Lead

Not sure of the year but I'll never forget the day. Fantastic climbing in a magnificent setting.

with Peter Brashaw
Hidden 24/Jul/79 Lead
Brian Wilderspin 22/Sep/78 AltLd O/S

With a guy called Frank ??

granitbahn ??/1978 AltLd
Mark Kemball 13/Aug/77 AltLd
with Sarah Bridge, George Mumford
GeoffG 09/Jul/77 AltLd

in those days we used a warthog ice screw as a nut key! paul was last man up and the warthog was sent down the rope to retrieve the last nut. unfortunately it embedded in his hand. we gave the A&E guys the invaluable advice that it was a hit in/unscrew type of implement!!!

with paul sharrock, tony bowker
Martin Bennett 06/Jul/77 -
with JD
steve L 21/May/77 AltLd O/S
with sharpie
sharpie ?/May/77 AltLd O/S
with Steve lewis
Hidden 19/Apr/76 AltLd
Hidden ??/1976 AltLd
Nigel Bond 02/Aug/75 2nd
with Dave Humphries
mikej 02/Sep/69 AltLd
with Chris Fitzhugh
uphillnow 17/Jun/67 AltLd

Climbed with John who led. Since led the route on a number of occasions. On first ascent Ken Wilson was photographing - some pictures in The Black Cliff.

with John Grieve
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High E3
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High E1
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Votes cast 32
High 6a
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Votes cast 33
Votes cast 32
Style of ascent
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Flashed (β)
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