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The Axe*** E4 6a

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[Michael Allday on top of The Axe, 3 kb]The amazing arete gives a magnificent long pitch for which the word 'exposed' is nowhere near descriptive enough. Photo on page 57. 6a, 35m. Climb right of the corner and make a hard pull over a small roof. Swing leftwards to a flake, then climb up to the arete above. This leads fairly directly all the way top the top. Sensational! © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, Good E4s, ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales, MIA logbook must haves!, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, Alex's Wales ticklist.

Photo: Michael Allday on top of The Axe © Michael Allday
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 88 logbooks, and on 92 wishlists.

Split it into 2 pitches, Uisdean lead first. Superb moves on great holds up the upper arÍte.
Callum_Johnson - AltLd O/S - 22/Jul/14 with Uisdean

Uisdean hawthorn - AltLd O/S - 22/Jul/14 with Callum_Johnson

Amazing. Was really intimidated before getting on this which made the tick even better. Crux is probably the roof, but above this difficulty is sustained and the very hollow nature of the flakes holds your interest as you place gear behind them! Brilliant technical climbing that is a little pumpy and pretty spicy. Very happy to have done this.
Duncan Campbell - UKC - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/14 with Florence the Machine

In the morning sun. Chuffed to make it - I was pretty pumped at half way.
Ed Babs - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/14 with AlexD

Epic!
AlexD - 2nd - 30/Jun/14 with Ed

Steve Crowe - Lead O/S - 23/Jun/14 with KM

Couldn't see the hype myself. Only good thing is that it's a big overhanging arÍte in an exposed position but didn't think the climbing was overly amazing and seemed like all the gear was expanding flakes and holds that could ping off. Reckon the 3rd E1 pitch of The Grooves on Cyrn Las is better value.
Ed Booth - 2nd - 23/Jun/14 with Angus Kille, Nick Dixon

excellent climb, felt go-ey early on with snappy flakes but awesome moves higher up and a great position
anguskille - Lead O/S - 23/Jun/14 with Nick Dixon, Ed Booth

Awesome route!
GPN - 2nd β - 21/Jun/14 with Misha

Misha - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/14 with George

Lead it, then abbed it to strip the gear, then Rachel lead it, so I seconded it again too. Brilliant climb, shame it's not better value for the grade though, it would be better if the upper half was more difficult.
tim newton - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/14 with rachel slater

Amazing. Very steady and it was so nice to climb in the sun.
Rachel Slater - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/14 with Tim Newton

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

Glyn - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/13 with Tom Skelhon

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Jul/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Jul/13

Great stuff. Had to hang on a cam to remove a stuck nut under the starting roof.
Andrew Barker - 2nd - 07/Jul/13 with Si

Speeddemonsi - Lead O/S - 07/Jul/13

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 06/Jul/13

Ed F - Lead O/S - 05/Jul/13 with Bubbles

nathanlee - 2nd β - 19/Jun/13 with James Turnbull

felt easy for 6a but still e4 for creaky flakes and some run outs. awsome route
jamesturnbull - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/13 with nathan lee

dan gibson - 2nd O/S - 18/Jun/13 with alice thompson

Epic!
Alice Thompson - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/13 with Dan Gibson

Hidden - 2nd - 08/Jun/13

markalmack - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/13 with chris todd

LRob - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/13

khawk - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/12 with DT

On my Birthday :o)
soph - Lead O/S - 28/May/12 with Dan McManus

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/May/12

Fell off crux took a big swing on strech. clean next good
Ewan Russell - 2nd - 27/May/12 with Connor

very windy, had to climb inbetween the gusts at times. Got a nice Kalymnos esk seat rest in the middle.
mux - Lead O/S - 26/May/12 with Dave Almond

Warm and windy
Dave Almond - 2nd - 26/May/12 with Dave Garry

Pete Graham - Lead O/S - May/12 with Howard Lawledge

Fluffed the pull over the roof on my first attempt and ended up back down by the belay. It felt easy the second time round, although interest was well maintained all the way to the top. A great pitch.
kingholmesy - Lead - 2012 with OffshoreAndy

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/11

Hidden - 2nd - Jul/11

Superb.
Russell Birkett - Lead O/S - 03/Jun/11 with Murdoch J

Ram MkiV - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/11 with Guy

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

ewen - 2nd - 21/Jun/10 with neil stabbs

Luke Brooks - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/10 with Owain

Ows - 2nd - Jun/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/May/10

A taxing pitch. Lots of 5c/6a sections, a committing start, but, generally solid gear. Absolutely superb and definately one of the best trad pitches in the UK.
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/10 with George Ullrich

Hidden - 2010

Rob Greenwood - UKC - Lead O/S - 2010 with Helena Robinson

the juicy dangler - 2nd dog - 01/Jun/09 with rob greenwood

Amazing climbing
datoon - Lead O/S - 15/Jun/08 with RT

there at bang on 6am. what a route!
IOAN D - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/07 with Mills

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Jul/06

Out there classic of epic proportions!
Shaved Atom - Lead O/S - 2002

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - 2nd - Sep/00 with Nick Bullock

Just Another Dave - 2nd O/S - 1998 with Jo Bertalot

ellis - Lead O/S - Sep/97 with Ally Coull

Roget - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/96 with jon

Hidden - Lead - 21/Jul/96

sadams - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/96 with John Boyle

Hidden - AltLd - Jun/96

Hidden - Lead - Jun/96

Hidden - Lead O/S - Sep/95

Dave Musgrove Jnr - 2nd - 01/Aug/95 with Nick Ashton

Campbell42 - 2nd - 02/Jul/95 with Chris Wilson

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Jun/95

Hidden - 2nd - Jun/95

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1995

shark - Lead O/S - 17/Jul/94 with John Codling

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/94

sharpie - Lead O/S - Jun/92 with PL

Arrived at the top of the Pinnacle about 07:00, climbed in the sun wearing only shorts. A memorable morning!
jfletcher - AltLd O/S - 17/May/92 with David Gilkes

one point of rest half way up.
michael burrows - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/90 with brian jones

Steve Crowe - Lead O/S - 1990

Pedro50 - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/89 with Nigel Preston

Paula Hamilton-Gibson - 2nd O/S - 14/May/88 with Luke Steer

Mike Owen - 24/Jul/84 with Eric Rooseberry

Hidden - Lead - 31/Aug/83

Mark Kemball - Lead - 14/Jul/83 with Dave Abbey

Ian Jones - 2nd O/S - 1983 with Super Yorkie Paul Craven

Chris Craggs - Lead - 1980

andy gittins - 1980

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Voting
Total votes cast 62
hard E50 of 21
E50 of 21
easy E51 of 21
hard E42 of 21
E416 of 21
easy E41 of 21
hard E31 of 21
E30 of 21
easy E30 of 21
hard 6b0 of 21
6b0 of 21
easy 6b0 of 21
hard 6a1 of 21
6a16 of 21
easy 6a3 of 21
hard 5c1 of 21
5c0 of 21
easy 5c0 of 21
3 Stars20 of 20
2 Stars0 of 20
1 Star0 of 20
0 Stars0 of 20
Bag of .....0 of 20
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Style of ascent

Lead52 of 88 (59.1%)
Followed21 of 88 (23.9%)
Alt Leads4 of 88 (4.5%)
Unknown11 of 88 (12.5%)

'Climbed'31 of 88 (35.2%)
clean O/S54 of 88 (61.4%)
clean β2 of 88 (2.3%)
dogged1 of 88 (1.1%)