Octo** E1 5b
[Cloggy - Octo - The Belay, 3 kb]

Rockfax Description
A great corner-climb, and as well-positioned as you would expect for this wall. The approach scramble across steep grass needs some care. It is best reached from below by routes in the Pigott's Climb Area (see page 138 ). Start below the prominent left-facing corner.
1) 4b, 15m. Climb the right-hand crack to a stance in the chimney.
2) 5b, 20m. Move up to an overhang, heave around this with difficulty, then another pokey section leads back into the crack above. A brutal fight up this on rattly jams leads to easier climbing up to the grassy ledge on the right. Scramble off easily right to escape. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, UK Extreme Corners, Ultimate E1 ticklist, Alex's Wales ticklist.

Photo: Cloggy - Octo - The Belay © jonnienomates
Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 57 logbooks, and on 35 wishlists.

Brilliant- great clean rock. Definitely 3 stars. In one (45m?) pitch. Would be very well protected with two cam 3s but fine with 1.
soph - Lead O/S - 17/Aug/15 with Pablo Martin, Amy Underwood Thompson

guy757 - 13/Sep/14 with Vic

greenclimb - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/14 with Sarah

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/14

R0bbie - AltLd O/S - 22/Jun/14 with Taba

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

Hidden - 2014

dswansonlow - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/13 with Darren McMaster

Thrutchy beast!
Duncan Campbell - 2nd - 21/Jul/13 with Fingers

Dougie led all in one pitch. Interesting climbing, couldn't find any of those perfect jams that Dougie was on about though!
shed_hed - 2nd O/S - 21/Jul/13 with Dougie Swanson-Low

led first pitch, seemed a bit pointless, better done in a onner i reckon. second pitch is a beast! tamed by technical footworj though!
AlexD - AltLd O/S - 17/Jul/13 with Alasdair

hard really needed size 4 cam! best done in one big pitch the intermediate belay is very uncomfortable
alasdair19 - AltLd - Jul/13

Bit of a beast
Owain Llewelyn - 2nd - 23/May/12 with Dan and Kris

Stone Muppet - 2nd O/S - 23/May/12 with Owain, dan ely

dan ely - Lead - 23/May/12 with crispin, owian

Seconded 1st pitch, but couldn't work out the 2nd, plus wasn't really feeling it. Must go back.
HIGHTOWER - AltLd dnf - 28/Mar/12 with Tom Ripley

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jul/11

Hidden - AltLd - 03/Jun/11

1st pitch only
Simon Allcock - Lead - 02/Jun/11 with Wilki

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

PAJames - 2011

PAJames - 2011

crack was wet in places. Good old fashioned struggle. Did it with hexes, protection was possible but harder to arrange than cams
nigel pearson - AltLd O/S - 22/May/10 with Robin

zukator - Lead - 2010

Hidden - 2010

beci tointen - Lead O/S - Jul/09

gregoritos - Lead O/S - Jun/09 with fox

led P1, didn't have sufficient large gear for P2
Danos - AltLd dnf - 15/Jun/08 with Ben

Marcus - 2008

barni - AltLd - 18/Apr/07 with Paul James

Nicos - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/07 with rich howels

Hidden - AltLd - 17/Jun/06

mike lawrence? - 2006

sadams - 2nd - 22/May/04 with Hugh Cottom

one of my best days climbing ever. did lithrig, octo and vember. then went to the pub and chatted with Joe Brown about the routes. And got my photo taken on Octo which is now in the cloggy guide.
WB - AltLd O/S - 2000 with Paul

Ched - Lead O/S - 1998 with Glanfor

Hidden - Lead - 1998

Hidden - AltLd - 28/Apr/93

led 1st pitch
michael burrows - AltLd O/S - 05/Jun/88 with ket

charlesmfrench - 2nd O/S - 27/May/87

Tried one before, but it was wet.
uphillnow - Lead - May/87

The approach was scary, going down it afterwards again ditto, the ab descent was scary. The route is ....hard to criticise at all, but so good and so early in my climbing days. Defo one to go back for again.
howifeel - Lead O/S - 1987 with Morgan

Mark Kemball - AltLd - 19/Jul/82 with Dave Abbey

Chris Craggs - Lead - 1980

Desperate if you can't jam! Nice to see it upgraded, I must revisit.
Ian Jones - AltLd O/S - 1978 with Paul Stott

granitbahn - AltLd - 1978

Dave Musgrove - AltLd - 15/Oct/77 with Jim Worthington

mikej - AltLd - 09/Aug/76 with Mike Byles

RichardMc - 2nd O/S - 06/Jul/74 with Dave Langmead

In drizzle. John fell off leading crux. Abbed off.
Gordon Stainforth - AltLd dnf - 06/Sep/72 with John Stainforth

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
benclimbing, ashtond6, LanceSolf, hutchay, cpt_crunch, Nigel Coe, ClimbingGlen, JonmapDL, Martin Davies, The Nic Monk, Alan100, Just Another Dave, CM1992, tlmarjot, Sebastien Gastaud, andy dunn, Batt, samrad, Calder, tompilgrem, Andy Chubb, sgl0jd

Total votes cast 29
hard E20 of 10
E20 of 10
easy E21 of 10
hard E11 of 10
E14 of 10
easy E13 of 10
hard HVS1 of 10
HVS0 of 10
easy HVS0 of 10
hard 5c0 of 9
5c0 of 9
easy 5c0 of 9
hard 5b0 of 9
5b8 of 9
easy 5b1 of 9
hard 5a0 of 9
5a0 of 9
easy 5a0 of 9
3 Stars6 of 10
2 Stars3 of 10
1 Star0 of 10
0 Stars0 of 10
Bag of .....1 of 10
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S