Gwynedd > Clogwyn Du'r Arddu (Cloggy) >
 
Octo** E1 5b

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[Cloggy - Octo - The Belay, 3 kb]A great corner-climb, and as well-positioned as you would expect for this wall. The approach scramble across steep grass needs some care. 1) 4a, 15m. Climb the right-hand crack to a stance in the chimney. 2) 5b, 20m. Move up to an overhang, heave around this with difficulty, then climb the corner above to a ledge. Scramble off easily right to escape. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, UK Extreme Corners, Ultimate E1 ticklist.

Photo: Cloggy - Octo - The Belay © jonnienomates
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 43 logbooks, and on 30 wishlists.

dswansonlow - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/13 with Darren McMaster

Hidden - 2nd - 21/Jul/13

Dougie led all in one pitch. Interesting climbing, couldn't find any of those perfect jams that Dougie was on about though!
shed_hed - 2nd O/S - 21/Jul/13 with Dougie Swanson-Low

led first pitch, seemed a bit pointless, better done in a onner i reckon. second pitch is a beast! tamed by technical footworj though!
AlexD - AltLd O/S - 17/Jul/13 with Alasdair

hard really needed size 4 cam! best done in one big pitch the intermediate belay is very uncomfortable
alasdair19 - AltLd - Jul/13

Bit of a beast
Owain Llewelyn - 2nd - 23/May/12 with Dan and Kris

Stone Muppet - 2nd O/S - 23/May/12 with Owain, dan ely

Hidden - Lead - 23/May/12

Seconded 1st pitch, but couldn't work out the 2nd, plus wasn't really feeling it. Must go back.
HIGHTOWER - AltLd dnf - 28/Mar/12 with Tom Ripley

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jul/11

Hidden - AltLd - 03/Jun/11

1st pitch only
Simon Allcock - Lead - 02/Jun/11 with Wilki

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

PAJames - 2011

PAJames - 2011

crack was wet in places. Good old fashioned struggle. Did it with hexes, protection was possible but harder to arrange than cams
nigel pearson - AltLd O/S - 22/May/10 with Robin

zukator - Lead - 2010

Hidden - 2010

beci tointen - Lead O/S - Jul/09

gregoritos - Lead O/S - Jun/09 with fox

led P1, didn't have sufficient large gear for P2
Danos - AltLd dnf - 15/Jun/08 with Ben

Hidden - 2008

barni - AltLd - 18/Apr/07 with Paul James

Nicos - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/07 with rich howels

Hidden - AltLd - 17/Jun/06

Hidden - 2006

sadams - 2nd - 22/May/04 with Hugh Cottom

one of my best days climbing ever. did lithrig, octo and vember. then went to the pub and chatted with Joe Brown about the routes. And got my photo taken on Octo which is now in the cloggy guide.
WB - AltLd O/S - 2000 with Paul

Ched - Lead O/S - 1998 with Glanfor

Hidden - AltLd - 28/Apr/93

led 1st pitch
michael burrows - AltLd O/S - 05/Jun/88 with ket

charlesmfrench - 2nd O/S - 27/May/87

Tried one before but it was wet
David Smith - Lead - May/87

The approach was scary, going down it afterwards again ditto, the ab descent was scary. The route is ....hard to criticise at all, but so good and so early in my climbing days. Defo one to go back for again.
howifeel - Lead O/S - 1987 with Morgan

Mark Kemball - AltLd - 19/Jul/82 with Dave Abbey

Chris Craggs - Lead - 1980

Desperate if you can't jam! Nice to see it upgraded, I must revisit.
Ian Jones - AltLd O/S - 1978 with Paul Stott

granitbahn - AltLd - 1978

Dave Musgrove - AltLd - 15/Oct/77 with Jim Worthington

mikej - AltLd - 09/Aug/76 with Mike Byles

In drizzle. John fell off leading crux. Abbed off.
Gordon Stainforth - AltLd dnf - 06/Sep/72 with John Stainforth

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
cpt_crunch, Nigel Coe, Hidden, ClimbingGlen, Hidden, Hidden, JonmapDL, Martin Davies, Hidden, The Nic Monk, Alan100, Just Another Dave, CM1992, tlmarjot, Sebastien Gastaud, andy dunn, Batt, Hidden, Hidden, samrad, Hidden, Calder, Hidden, tompilgrem, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Andy Chubb, sgl0jd

Voting
Total votes cast 23
hard E20 of 8
E20 of 8
easy E21 of 8
hard E11 of 8
E13 of 8
easy E13 of 8
hard HVS0 of 8
HVS0 of 8
easy HVS0 of 8
hard 5c0 of 7
5c0 of 7
easy 5c0 of 7
hard 5b0 of 7
5b6 of 7
easy 5b1 of 7
hard 5a0 of 7
5a0 of 7
easy 5a0 of 7
3 Stars5 of 8
2 Stars2 of 8
1 Star0 of 8
0 Stars0 of 8
Bag of .....1 of 8
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Style of ascent

Lead12 of 43 (27.9%)
Followed6 of 43 (14.0%)
Alt Leads17 of 43 (39.5%)
Unknown8 of 43 (18.6%)

'Climbed'25 of 43 (58.1%)
clean O/S15 of 43 (34.9%)
dnf3 of 43 (7.0%)