Rockfax Description
A great corner-climb, and as well-positioned as you would expect for this wall. The approach scramble across steep grass needs some care. It is best reached from below by routes in the Pigott's Climb Area (see page 138 ). Start below the prominent left-facing corner.
1) 4b, 15m. Climb the right-hand crack to a stance in the chimney.
2) 5b, 20m. Move up to an overhang, heave around this with difficulty, then another pokey section leads back into the crack above. A brutal fight up this on rattly jams leads to easier climbing up to the grassy ledge on the right. Scramble off easily right to escape. © Rockfax

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, UK Extreme Corners, Ultimate E1 ticklist, Alex's Wales ticklist.

soph 17/Aug Lead O/S

Brilliant- great clean rock. Definitely 3 stars. In one (45m?) pitch. Would be very well protected with two cam 3s but fine with 1.

with Pablo Martin, Amy Underwood Thompson
Amy UT 17/Aug 2nd O/S


with Pablo Martin, Sophie Whyte
guy757 13/Sep/14 -
with Vic
greenclimb 13/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Sarah
dan gibson 26/Jul/14 Lead O/S
R0bbie 22/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
with Taba
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
dswansonlow 21/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Duncan Campbell 21/Jul/13 2nd

Thrutchy beast!

with Fingers
shed_hed 21/Jul/13 2nd O/S

Dougie led all in one pitch. Interesting climbing, couldn't find any of those perfect jams that Dougie was on about though!

AlexD 17/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

led first pitch, seemed a bit pointless, better done in a onner i reckon. second pitch is a beast! tamed by technical footworj though!

alasdair19 ?/Jul/13 AltLd

hard really needed size 4 cam! best done in one big pitch the intermediate belay is very uncomfortable

Owain Llewelyn 23/May/12 2nd

Bit of a beast

with Dan and Kris
Stone Muppet 23/May/12 2nd O/S
with Owain, dan ely
dan ely 23/May/12 Lead
with crispin, owian
HIGHTOWER 28/Mar/12 AltLd dnf

Seconded 1st pitch, but couldn't work out the 2nd, plus wasn't really feeling it. Must go back.

Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ?/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Jun/11 AltLd
Simon Allcock 02/Jun/11 Lead

1st pitch only

with Wilki
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
nigel pearson 22/May/10 AltLd O/S

crack was wet in places. Good old fashioned struggle. Did it with hexes, protection was possible but harder to arrange than cams

with Robin
zukator ??/2010 Lead
Hidden ??/2010 -
beci tointen ?/Jul/09 Lead O/S
gregoritos ?/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with fox
Danos 15/Jun/08 AltLd dnf

led P1, didn't have sufficient large gear for P2

with Ben
Marcus ??/2008 -
barni 18/Apr/07 AltLd
with Paul James
Nicos 08/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Jun/06 AltLd
mike lawrence? ??/2006 -
sadams 22/May/04 2nd
with Hugh Cottom
WB ??/2000 AltLd O/S

one of my best days climbing ever. did lithrig, octo and vember. then went to the pub and chatted with Joe Brown about the routes. And got my photo taken on Octo which is now in the cloggy guide.

with Paul
Ched ??/1998 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
Hidden ??/1998 Lead
Rob Davies ?/May/95 2nd


Hidden 28/Apr/93 AltLd
michael burrows 05/Jun/88 AltLd O/S

led 1st pitch

with ket
charlesmfrench 27/May/87 2nd O/S
uphillnow ?/May/87 Lead

Tried one before, but it was wet.

howifeel ??/1987 Lead O/S

The approach was scary, going down it afterwards again ditto, the ab descent was scary. The route is ....hard to criticise at all, but so good and so early in my climbing days. Defo one to go back for again.

with Morgan
Mark Kemball 19/Jul/82 AltLd
with Dave Abbey
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead
Ian Jones ??/1978 AltLd O/S

Desperate if you can't jam! Nice to see it upgraded, I must revisit.

with Paul Stott
granitbahn ??/1978 AltLd
Dave Musgrove 15/Oct/77 AltLd
with Jim Worthington
mikej 09/Aug/76 AltLd
with Mike Byles
RichardMc 06/Jul/74 2nd O/S
with Dave Langmead
Gordon Stainforth 06/Sep/72 AltLd dnf

In drizzle. John fell off leading crux. Abbed off.

with John Stainforth
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 10
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 9
Votes cast 11
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set