The Black Cleft** E2 5c
[The Black Cleft after a two week dry spell, 2 kb]

Rockfax Description
Horrific and slippery climbing up the compellingly-obvious line - you have to really want to climb this one. The corner is usually wet in a summer drought, and really wet at other times so expect to get filthy. In winter it can offer a great winter route - VII,7 mixed with thin ice on the first pitch.
1) 15m. Climb the right-hand edge of a pillar, left of the main corner and usually the driest option, and belay on the top.
2) 5c, 20m. Move into the corner and start swimming upwards to an optional stance.
3) 5c, 20m. Continue in the same damp line past some hanging gardens and a small overhang. Continue up then step left to a belay and junction with The Boulder.
4) and 5) As for The Boulder. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: Unusual and Interesting Routes You Must Do VS- E2, Alex's Wales ticklist.

Photo: The Black Cleft after a two week dry spell © ianstevens
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This climb is in 7 logbooks, and on 6 wishlists.

zukator - Lead - 2010

beci tointen - Lead O/S - Jul/09

Hidden - AltLd - 17/May/09

climbinggeorge123 - AltLd - 16/May/09 with fingers, matt

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2008

granitbahn - AltLd - 1978

The dry summer had reduced the running water to a trickle but the crack was still full of watercress which had to be peeled off, mostly onto Dave. A brilliant route, better than White Slab which we climbed the same day.
petemeads - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/75

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Edvenables, ianstevens, tlmarjot, andy dunn, richw2k2
Total votes cast 6
hard E30 of 2
E30 of 2
easy E30 of 2
hard E20 of 2
E22 of 2
easy E20 of 2
hard E10 of 2
E10 of 2
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hard 6a0 of 2
6a0 of 2
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5c2 of 2
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easy 5b0 of 2
3 Stars2 of 2
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