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|Gwynedd > Clogwyn Du'r Arddu (Cloggy) >|
|The Black Cleft|| E2 5c|
<< The Boulderer
The Black Cleft >>
|Horrific and slippery climbing up the compellingly-obvious line - you have to really want to climb this one. The corner is usually wet in a summer drought, and really wet at other times so expect to get filthy. In winter it can offer a great ice route - VII,7 mixed with thin ice on the first pitch.
1) 15m. Climb the right-hand edge of a pillar, left of the main corner and usually drier, and belay on the top.
2) 5c, 20m. Move into the corner and start swimming upwards to an optional stance.
3) 5c, 20m. Continue in the same damp line past some hanging gardens and a small overhang. Continue up then step left to a belay and junction with The Boulder.
4) 5a, 15m. Pitch 3 of The Boulder.
5) 25m. Pitch 4 of The Boulder. © ROCKFAX|
Ticklists: Unusual and Interesting Routes You Must Do VS- E2.
Photo: The Black Cleft after a two week dry spell © ianstevens
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This climb is in 7 logbooks, and on 6 wishlists.
zukator - Lead - 2010
beci tointen - Lead O/S - Jul/09
Hidden - AltLd - 17/May/09
climbinggeorge123 - AltLd - 16/May/09 with fingers, matt
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2008
granitbahn - AltLd - 1978
The dry summer had reduced the running water to a trickle but the crack was still full of watercress which had to be peeled off, mostly onto Dave. A brilliant route, better than White Slab which we climbed the same day.
petemeads - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/75
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Edvenables, ianstevens, tlmarjot, andy dunn, Hidden, richw2k2