Longland's Climb*** VS 4c
[Longland's Climb, pitch 1, 2 kb]126m, 5 pitches. A fine old classic that takes an intricate line up the slender slab on this side of the West Buttress. The first route to breach the imposing West Buttress. Start at the foot of The Black Cleft and scramble across easy ground to a ledge below the corner proper. 1) 4a, 25m. Climb the corner to a chimney. 2) 4b, 12m. Climb up the chimney and slab above either on the left (easier) or by pulling out right and traversing back above (better). 3) 30m. Easy climbing leads up the slab to a ledge on the right. 4) 4c, 25m. From the right end of the ledge, pull up steeply then move right to a chimney. This leads to easier ground and the top. © ROCKFAX
Excellent, exposed climbing after a wet and loose start. First main slab pitch very long to get a stance with decent belays (35m) just by the 'Faith and Friction' bit.
JL Longland, AS Pigott, FS Smythe, W Eversden, M Wood May/1928

Ticklists: The 100 Best UK VS routes?, North Wales Rock Graded List, MIA logbook must haves!, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs.

Photo: Longland's Climb, pitch 1 © caradoc
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 194 logbooks, and on 84 wishlists.

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 13/Sep/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/14

Climbed in 3 pitches due to some trouble with route finding and working out where the pitches were lower down! I led what is p3 in the guide, up to the ledge belay. Had a great time - first climb on Cloggy! Was less exciting climbing than I'd expected, but a brilliant place to be.
Heather Osborne - AltLd O/S - 10/Sep/14 with Mike Nolan

Hidden - Lead - 08/Sep/14

Did in four pitches, rather than five. Led P1 (the usual P1) and P3 (roughly equivalent to P4). Very good fun.
cameron_hall - AltLd O/S - 09/Aug/14 with Martin Oldham

P1 is a slippery scramble. P2 is a nice pitch, but in my enthusiasm I went past the belay and then spent some time trying to find a suitable place to stop on the slab on P3. Cameron ran the remainder of P3 and P4 together. I did P5 - the overhang looks intimidating, but is easier than it appears.
smolders - AltLd O/S - 09/Aug/14 with Cameron

bob johnson - 05/Jul/14 with Rich Ball

R0bbie - AltLd O/S - 21/Jun/14 with Taba

Got lost on the top pitch and got a bit scared! While route seemed loose, vegetated and poorly protected.
Mowglee - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/14 with Ali

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Jun/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 17/May/14

Bob - 2014

IanGilbertJones - 2014

Si - 2014

mike mo - 2014

Hidden - 2014

Allanfairfechan - 2014

Nice climb to finish on, running 3 pitches together helped speed up the climb which was well worth it.
nicole almond - 2nd - 21/Jul/13 with Dad

Nice route to finish making a reasonable trio of Cloggy routes in a day. Made it in 3 pitches counting the scramble start.
Dave Almond - Lead - 21/Jul/13 with Nicole Almond

Lead pitches 1, 4, 5.
RCrockford - AltLd O/S - 20/Jul/13 with Graham

Good climbing and fantastic exposure and positions. Re: The comment below - if you think this is loose and chossy then you've never lived.
Calder - AltLd O/S - 20/Jul/13

joese7en - AltLd O/S - 20/Jul/13

Palindrome - 2nd O/S - 20/Jul/13

fizzychewitt - AltLd - 14/Jul/13 with Ali, Jayne

Led crux pitch.
Double Knee Bar - AltLd O/S - 13/Jul/13

Ollie B - AltLd O/S - 13/Jul/13 with H.Gibson

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 13/Jul/13

did a variant last pitch to the left - I think HVS 5a ?
Helen Gibson - AltLd - 13/Jul/13 with Ollie B

An Epic day in Epic surroundings, would only give it 3* for the last 4c pitch. The rest was quite loose and chossy.
ashsleight - AltLd O/S - 10/Jul/13 with Scott, Glen bloomer

Big long day out, slowed considerably by the team ahead. Felt all the pitches, bar the first and last deserved 4b, the overhang was simple but steep and exposed. Gear overall was poor as were the belays....normal day at Cloggy!
Zoomer - AltLd O/S - 10/Jul/13 with Scotty Mayled, Ash Sleight

Good climb, surprisingly cheeky at spots. The ungraded sections should be graded 4A/4B maybe? Long day out! A bloomer adventure!
scott mayled - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/13 with ashsleight, zoomer

alpinismo.uk - AltLd - 10/Jul/13

In 4 pitches, led 2 & 4. Good fun, but none of the pitches are as good as any of the pitches on Great/Bow.
victim of mathematics - AltLd O/S - 06/Jul/13 with James Oswald

Not as good as great-bow but still good. Fun
James Oswald - AltLd O/S - 06/Jul/13 with Colin Angus

newtonmore - Jul/13

Jones_88 - AltLd - 09/Jun/13

adam06 - AltLd - 09/Jun/13 with Wyn Jones

Meandered easily up the first three pitches then fell off the crux pitch. Lacerated my forearm in the fall and needed 11 stitches. Managed some climbing the following day at least.
Big Lee - AltLd dnf - 08/Jun/13 with Ryan Osborne

Steve Woollard - AltLd - 08/Jun/13 with Padraig O'Caigh

Lead P1 and then P2+3 together. Dirty and scrappy. Poor introduction to the cliff. Abbed off a chockstone after pulling on to the slab above the chimney. Thought we were on the wrong route at the time, but we were right, it just wasn't very nice.
JezH - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/13 with Ellie

Hidden - AltLd - 03/Jun/13

Dan724 - AltLd O/S - 03/Jun/13 with Ben Ryle

Amazing intro to Cloggy, what an unbelievable place
BenRyle - AltLd O/S - 03/Jun/13 with Dan

Ioan jones on lead, good intro to cloggy, sunny day in the shade.
Melok - 2nd - Jun/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/May/13

Hidden - AltLd - 2013

Hidden - 2013

rob16 - 2013

jcw - 2013

DubyaJamesDubya - 2013

roberts1234567890 - AltLd - 02/Jun/12 with Simon Verspeak

Led P2, P3 and half of P4 in one go
MD - AltLd O/S - 27/May/12 with Jo

Happy Wanderer - AltLd O/S - 27/May/12 with Mike D

If your comfortable at the grade then soloing p1 and stringing p2 + p3 together makes this climb pretty awesome.
djromberg - Lead O/S - 27/May/12

great route. some good moves on final pitch.
vertically_challenged - AltLd O/S - 26/May/12

cheeky - AltLd O/S - 25/May/12 with Mark Philipson

mark4344 - AltLd O/S - 25/May/12 with Matt Payne

antonymcphillips - AltLd - May/12

Hidden - Lead - 27/Mar/12

Hidden - AltLd - 26/Mar/12

joe_lancs - Lead O/S - 25/Mar/12

Hidden - Lead - 25/Mar/12

davidtrelawnyross - 2012

Hidden - 2012

Stewart Armstrong - 2012

JamesP - 2012

Hidden - 2012

Stone Idol - 2012

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 02/Oct/11

tedburt - AltLd O/S - 01/Oct/11 with Aaron Burdett

lead 2+3 then abbed off cos of rain and wet slippy rock
0ddba11 - AltLd dnf - Oct/11

Never worth 3 stars! Way too vegetated and loose..Lead all pitches
Lawrie Brand - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/11 with Sarah Laing

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 03/Jul/11

Hidden - AltLd - 04/Jun/11

Truly epic with really strong winds, loose rock and awkward moves in a fantastic position!
Tomprusk - AltLd O/S - 02/May/11 with Dad

Beautiful sunny day but strong cool wind.
Chris M Thomas - AltLd - 30/Apr/11 with Luke

Julie Carroll - AltLd - 28/Apr/11 with Ross

Led P2 & 3 together, them 5. Couldn't see anywhere to belay where the chimney widened so just kept going. Starting moves on the final pitch went much easier than expected... wish it was a longer section. Not dissapointed with my first Cloggy experience.
andy dunn - AltLd O/S - 25/Mar/11 with J

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

adie84 - 2011

PAJames - 2011

PAJames - 2011

Sean Kelly - 2011

pasbury - 2011

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 03/Jul/10

Lead 2nd and 4th pitches. Excellent route with great exposure on the arete.
Tadams - Lead O/S - 22/Jun/10 with Will Jung

stuart34 - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/10 with Joe Shipcott

relatively easy climbing, tied first 2 real pitches together. Sting in tail is fine if you just go for it.
Jim Walton - AltLd O/S - 19/Jun/10 with Mike Owen

Lead P3 with Caroline and Bry
Katya - AltLd - 19/Jun/10 with Caroline

Bry - AltLd O/S - 19/Jun/10 with Caroline and Kat

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/10

First visit to Cloggy. Not that impressed with the climbing on this route but the position is stunning. Tricky belay after the slab and moving up the groove.
JWB - AltLd O/S - 12/Jun/10 with Mike Allen

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/Jun/10

Scary, wet pitch to get to the start of the slab. Belay in the chimney on first slab pitch not really on so ran out 35 m. to get something.
Haszko - Lead - 05/Jun/10 with Danuszka Rycerz

Hidden - AltLd - 05/Jun/10

jon lead 1 and 4 me 2 and 3 combined and 5. Took a LONG time. tricky belay on pitches 2-3. AMAZING
dan ely - AltLd O/S - 27/May/10 with jon, jesse

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/May/10

in 3
tomhull - AltLd O/S - 23/May/10 with matt harris

Hidden - AltLd - May/10

Graham Westbrook - AltLd O/S - Apr/10

zukator - Lead - 2010

peter myers - AltLd O/S - Oct/09 with Ralph Heath

PaulHarris - AltLd - 19/Sep/09 with Simon, Micheal

PaulHarris - AltLd - 19/Sep/09

Hidden - 2nd - 25/Jul/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Jun/09

thompson1000 - 03/Jun/09 with Olly

nutallovertheface - AltLd O/S - Jun/09 with Steve

Led P2
CharlotteJelleyman - AltLd O/S - 31/May/09 with Herve Nuttall, Steve Franklin

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 31/May/09

Nice route. No one else anywhere on the crag on a Bank Holiday Monday and a lot of the routes were dry!
Conan - AltLd O/S - 25/May/09 with Philippa Reader

steve prior - AltLd - May/09 with Andy C

with arete finish
dickypips - AltLd O/S - 2009

SimonvanDam - AltLd - 23/Jul/08 with James

dja - AltLd O/S - 06/Jun/08 with Mike Hargreaves

Mike Hargreaves - AltLd O/S - 06/Jun/08 with Dave Atkinson

Joe Miller - 2nd O/S - 31/May/08 with Ray Cassidy

unfit - AltLd - 20/May/08 with john N

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 20/May/08

Hidden - 2nd - 15/May/08

Matt Vigg - 2008

Marcus - 2008

dave657 - AltLd O/S - 15/Sep/07 with Steve

Hidden - AltLd - 07/Sep/07

Gman - AltLd O/S - Sep/07 with Jonathan

jepotherepo - 07/Apr/07 with richard lackey

jonnie3430 - AltLd O/S - Apr/07

Sean Kelly - 2007

A fantastic climb in perfect conditions
John HW - AltLd O/S - Jul/06 with Cath

mikelaing - 2006

mike lawrence? - 01/Jul/05 with Alex B

Ann S - 2nd - Jul/04 with Bill Harrison

Hidden - AltLd O/S - May/04

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2004

ArnaudG - AltLd O/S - 20/Jun/03 with Dunc

kato'sdad - AltLd - 23/Apr/03 with Rob Simpson

RobSimmo - AltLd O/S - 23/Apr/03 with Jon Berry

five - AltLd O/S - Apr/03 with KR

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 03/Sep/02

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/01

rlrs - AltLd - 2001

John Pickles - AltLd O/S - 10/Jul/99 with John Short

Hidden - 1999

Rained all the way up it
Duncan I - May/98 with Toby Hulf

BenTiffin - AltLd - Feb/98 with Matt Baker

Ched - Lead O/S - 1998 with Glanfor

alan moore - 1998

zero six - AltLd O/S - 1998

Hidden - Lead - 1998

Tim Sparrow - Lead - Oct/97 with Rhiannon

nickdonohue - AltLd - 12/Jul/97 with Andy ?

goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 04/Aug/95 with Roy Thomas

Hidden - Lead - 25/Jun/95

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/May/94

Hidden - Lead - 12/Aug/93

Richard Weller - AltLd - 05/Jun/93 with Robin Cowan

Hidden - AltLd - 02/May/93

WB - 1992

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 1991

Hidden - AltLd - 09/Sep/90

sadams - AltLd - Jul/90 with Mark Bonham

S,L,L,2,L. Did direct finish, 2nd, 18/9/82. Did West Direct Finish on 13/8/82.
charlesmfrench - AltLd O/S - 10/Jun/90

Steve Lenartowicz - 1990

After Main Wall Cyrn Las
babymoac - AltLd - 17/Jun/89 with Andrew Ecker

Pete_Frost - AltLd O/S - 1988

PaulTanton - AltLd O/S - Jul/83 with Dave Campbell

Paula Hamilton-Gibson - Solo O/S - Jun/83

Ghastly Rubberfeet - AltLd - 1981

Chris Craggs - Lead - 1980

Chris Craggs - 1980

Hidden - AltLd - 26/May/78

granitbahn - AltLd - 1978

mikej - Lead - 29/May/77 with Tony Waite

Bolt Phobia - Lead - 24/May/77

steve L - 1977

led short final steep bit
JohnHutch - 2nd - Jul/76 with CR

petemeads - Lead - 1976

Hidden - AltLd - 01/Sep/75

Mark Kemball - AltLd - Aug/75 with Bill Wheeler

Nigel Bond - Lead - 28/Jun/75 with Robert Lloydd

Hidden - AltLd - Jun/75

Steve Woollard - Lead - 1974 with Doug Adams

sharpie - Lead O/S - Jul/73 with Steve Evans

Hidden - AltLd - 1973

climbed in early 1970's
ill_bill - Lead - 1973 with Martin Bown

Paul Clarke - AltLd - 1973 with FMC

Dave Musgrove - AltLd - 15/Jul/72 with Bob Knapton

pneame - AltLd - 1972

David Smith - Lead - 17/Jul/71 with charlie Tanner, Dave Ellis

Tom V - 1971

'Somewhat disappointing'
Gordon Stainforth - AltLd - 05/Aug/70 with Tim James

Campbell42 - AltLd O/S - 04/May/68 with David Cording

Hidden - AltLd - 28/Aug/66

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
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Voting
Total votes cast 93
hard HVS0 of 31
HVS0 of 31
easy HVS0 of 31
hard VS1 of 31
VS26 of 31
easy VS4 of 31
hard HS0 of 31
HS0 of 31
easy HS0 of 31
hard 5a0 of 31
5a0 of 31
easy 5a0 of 31
hard 4c10 of 31
4c19 of 31
easy 4c2 of 31
hard 4b0 of 31
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easy 4b0 of 31
3 Stars12 of 31
2 Stars13 of 31
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Style of ascent

Soloed
Lead
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Alt Leads
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