A historic route, somewhere between caving and climbing. The tradition states that it should be done at night in terrible conditions by a large party...
1.From the marble arch descend right to wall with an obvious crack. climb this and scramble up to another crack.
2. climb the crack exiting left onto ledges. Walk right to giant flake, belay at tree
3. Enter the darkness, in front of you is a tight chimney crack leading deep into the rock. Climb up to the chockstone and scramble deeper into the cliff over several short boulders. Emerge after 120ft into the light again by large flake.
4. Save the walk by abseiling off the flake (old rope around flake) or climb straight up to metal spike. Descend to left by large gulley.

A Lockwood 1908

Ticklists: The troglodyte squeeze specials, North Wales Rock Graded List, Through Routes!, Classic Chimney - England and Wales, Unusual and Interesting Routes You Must Do VS- E2, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, AMC Uni Ticklist, Enigmatic Affection: The Dark Art of Chimneying, Thrutch and Clutch, Type 2 Fun, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet).

Martin Brierley 18/Aug Solo rpt

Took my family through Lockwoods. I am very proud of them. Some hauling of seconds required. Red did it barefoot, not bad for her first outing.

with Rowan , Jasper , Red
EJWest 28/Jul 2nd RP

More like caving than climbing. Ridiculous but great fun. The main cleft is only about 50cm wide and the starting chimney is usually covered in water. Did it in a bit group so took 4 hours and then had to do a 50m abseil to get back down to the base of the route

Joe.Elliott1 24/Jul AltLd
Tom66 24/Jul AltLd

Lead all but the chimney, a fun(?!) day out in heavy rain and wind. First 5m of the chimney is very physical!

LeeHawden 24/Jul AltLd

bloody hard work, "ideal" conditions, big spiders, green as hell! :-D

with joe, tom
DaveThexton 16/Jul AltLd O/S

Absolute gopping! Had mid route beer in the crack...

Jenn_Stretton 16/Jul AltLd

Words can't describe this route. We definitely did it in prime conditions - the wetter the better!

frejashannon 16/Jul AltLd
Hidden 16/Jul AltLd O/S
joe hallam 28/Jun AltLd

big f**king spiders everywhere. horrific. a good laugh and wet weather alternative

with james gibson
Hidden 23/Jun AltLd O/S
foobar123 23/Jun AltLd O/S

Led P1&3. Never laughed so much during a climb! Climbed through a very painful bush on P1 though, so probably off route...

Bilbo 12/Jun AltLd O/S

Perfect choice for a wet day. Great laugh enjoying "indoor" climbing outdoors.

with Martin Bischoff
BethTansley 04/Jun Lead
Hidden 30/May Lead
KBerggren 30/May 2nd
flying el burro 29/May AltLd
slab_happy 02/May -

Done in good style, i.e. while it was streaming with water, in a group, wearing boots, and through the use of combined tactics. Admittedly it was daytime and no-one was drunk, but we did our best.

with Claire, Cath, Hazel, Mandy
ayuplass 02/May 2nd

Done as a group in wet weather like God intended

hazeysunshine 02/May 2nd rpt

A large and jolly party, using combined tactics, including standing on heads and shoulders, hauling on slings and general obligatory grovelling and thrutching

with Mandy, Cath Sullivan, Claire
Mike Hood 17/Apr Solo
Hidden 02/Apr 2nd dnf
Hidden 27/Mar AltLd dnf
Keith O'D 21/Mar AltLd
Hidden 21/Mar AltLd
Hidden 21/Mar AltLd
Hidden 04/Mar Lead rpt
Cillian O Corrbui ?/Mar AltLd O/S

Probably one of the most adventurous climbs ive ever tried. Did it in pitch dark as was taken completely by surprise by the chimney. Class time on it but very tough for the grade if you aren't used to chimney climbing

with Keith
Kinge 27/Feb Lead rpt

Ticked two of the requirements for the climb: Night and a large group of 11. Left the minibus at 12:30am and were back for 7:00am. Next time it better be snowing!

Tim Ford 27/Feb 2nd
with Michael Edge, Kinge
Hidden 27/Feb 2nd
Hidden 27/Feb AltLd O/S
andrewmcleod 21/Feb 2nd rpt

Extraordinarily wet. I misremembered it having a roof in the chimney section but it does not; it was absolutely soaking! Did the first pitch correctly this time (very difficult in rubber boots in the wet!) and abseiled off rather than doing the extremely bold top slab top pitch.

G Weatherley 21/Feb 2nd
with andrewmcleod, Ed Walker
Hidden 24/Jan Lead
richardsavill 09/Jan AltLd

as a staff trip

dobby 200 06/Jan AltLd O/S
foostu4 06/Jan AltLd O/S

In a big group (12) for staff training.Amazing fun!

Rory Shaw ??/2016 -
Climbingspike ??/2016 -
Trace 31/Dec/15 AltLd

Wet and welsh

Fallow 31/Dec/15 2nd O/S


with Al, Trace
Monkey_Alan 31/Dec/15 2nd rpt

Wet, slimy, disgusting. Perfect Lockwood's conditions!

Hidden 31/Dec/15 AltLd O/S
myrddinmuse 15/Nov/15 Solo O/S

Severe weather warning be damned. Soloed up each pitch to set up belay, very rewarding climb. One of those you need to climb once.. But only once. Awesome.

Gabs Ruetz 15/Nov/15 Lead O/S

The wettest I got in a while, but very rewarding

BHuthers 15/Nov/15 2nd O/S

Absolutely soaking, not sure i enjoyed the caving part too much... Good fun having done it though!

rosatb 15/Nov/15 2nd O/S

My view of what is classed as 'wet rock' has been changed forever. Wild weather, but great adventure!

with Eben, Kirsten, MegWan
Rob McGurk 15/Nov/15 Lead dog

'Do it in boots' they said. Took a couple of falls on the soaking wet first pitch. Did the top of the first pitch and the whole second pitch barefoot.

KBerggren 15/Nov/15 2nd
with Rosa Taylor Beale, Megan Brown, myrddinmuse
Hidden 15/Nov/15 Lead
Elaine Reed 15/Nov/15 2nd
henry.jeffreys 08/Nov/15 Lead rpt

With 3 freshers

with UBMC
Hartz 08/Nov/15 AltLd dnf

Closer to a DNS - did not start

UBMC 08/Nov/15 2nd
thetradlad 06/Nov/15 -

A late night venture on a weekend that promised 17mm of rain in 1 hour. DNS

with James Woodman
benheinrich87 12/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Sep/15 Lead O/S
static266 07/Sep/15 2nd O/S
Mr Fuller 30/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

Led P2 and P4. Great fun, made all the more so by a very large rucksack for the second. Serious thuggery on P2 enhanced by a bat flying in my face.

Hidden 30/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
spalice 21/Aug/15 Solo O/S
Michael Bonallie 21/Aug/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 21/Aug/15 -
th0ma5_ander50n 21/Aug/15 TR dog
Hidden 21/Aug/15 -
Hidden 19/Aug/15 2nd
Mike505 12/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Lead/ grovelled all pitches, only needed on size 5 dragon and a draw, very wet after a couple of days of rain. Soloed then down climbed the last pitch for the ab.

with Henry
Yoshi 11/Aug/15 2nd O/S
with Mike
Dan Geh 05/Aug/15 AltLd rpt
with Matt, CGDStewart
Hidden 05/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
James Oakes 27/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
Fragmod 27/Jun/15 Lead
climbEdclimb 24/Jun/15 Solo O/S
tomwright1509 23/Jun/15 Solo rpt
Hidden 22/Jun/15 Lead
Hidden 11/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
bede.west 06/Jun/15 Lead O/S

What is this! ha ha!

with Thea, Stopsy
Stopsy 06/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
with Kinge, Bede, Thea
Kinge 06/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
with Thea, Stopsy
TheaSmea 06/Jun/15 AltLd
with James
ianstevens 31/May/15 Lead

Climbed up, climbed back down. Some of the most polished rock I've seen!

Hidden 28/May/15 -
Hidden 25/May/15 Solo O/S
lewk_c 10/May/15 AltLd O/S
Jack_Lewin 10/May/15 2nd β

Lead half of first pitch, too wet for 2nd half! Awesome route.

with Nick Lyons, lewk_c
SPD224 02/May/15 AltLd
with Andy Bunnage
yetidj4x 30/Apr/15 2nd
yetidj4x 30/Apr/15 2nd
Hidden 04/Apr/15 2nd
cdpuk 04/Apr/15 Lead O/S

SAKMC mass-ascent of the weekend. After a week of heavy rain it was very damp inside but still clean and great fun. Felt more like VDiff/Severe in the damp. Abbed off at the end of the chimney - top pitch didn't look worth it.

BenRyle 04/Apr/15 AltLd O/S
with Ian Grobowski, Steve Keys
ned_85 02/Apr/15 -
Kate Edhouse 02/Apr/15 -
with ned_85
FreddieSmith ?/Apr/15 Solo
with Luke Foster
Ewan Russell 23/Mar/15 AltLd O/S
huwaaron 23/Mar/15 Solo

With Timon, Cedri, Iwan and a massive hangover, raining, wet, crammed up but a great laugh!

Hidden 15/Mar/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 08/Mar/15 Solo
ash longreach ?/Mar/15 AltLd
with John
Samuel Wainwright 22/Feb/15 AltLd O/S

Did in B3s in the driving rain and snow.. Outstanding!

with Rafe Osborne
UncleMephisto 21/Feb/15 AltLd O/S

Awesome adventure!

Zack 25/Jan/15 AltLd O/S
andrewmcleod 25/Jan/15 AltLd O/S

Led p1, p3 and p4. My partner graded this VD - very damp (done in the rain as required)! Didn't quite get the first pitch right - started up just to the right of the arch then scrambled almost horizontally right for some distance until reaching the base of the chimney. Hauling bags through the crack was good fun! Top pitch seemed pretty unprotected though...

Curtis woodcock ?/Jan/15 -
Curtis woodcock ?/Jan/15 -
NatashaG ?/Jan/15 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
Tim Sparrow ??/2015 -
NatashaG ??/2015 -

bouldering, TR and abseiling

Hidden 10/Dec/14 -
conwatts91 08/Nov/14 TR
JDSwain 19/Oct/14 Solo
with Sam Radcliffe, Rich Cannel
mrginna 19/Oct/14 Lead O/S
with Tim
samrad 19/Oct/14 Solo
with john, rich
cat88 19/Oct/14 -

Wet with walking boots,left sacks at Marble Arch, got a few bruises on the way through

Tim Francis 18/Oct/14 Solo O/S
with ian
Qureshi 22/Sep/14 Solo O/S
adamre12 21/Sep/14 Solo O/S

Great fun but I will have to come back in bad weather. Very very polished, abseiled down and the ropes got stuck so we had to climb it again! Soloed up the whole route in 6 minutes. Not too bad!

emlynroberts 30/Aug/14 AltLd

Go through the arch, drop down walk along a narrow path to reach a short crack into the trees climb this it leads to another larger cracked wall. A large tree at the top of this crack marks the enterance to the chimney. Dont think I found these cracks last time! Was very wet, much more of a fight than last time, partly because the second crack is tricky but mostly because the feet were slipping off everything on the chimney pitch. Done in 5 pitches and a walk along the middle cave section. The sack was an error but glad of the shoes walking down the gully.

Matadoors 30/Aug/14 2nd
carl_123 26/Aug/14 AltLd
Matadoors 02/Aug/14 Lead dnf

bailed at the end of the first chimney pitch

with jana
runestone 02/Aug/14 2nd
Jani_J 02/Aug/14 2nd dnf
with Matt
eis201 ?/Aug/14 -
spags88 31/Jul/14 Lead
with Ryan gorman
ryan1410 31/Jul/14 2nd O/S
with Jamie Buttle
Quinnstunts1 31/Jul/14 2nd O/S

67 Meters. Great multi pitch route. Great weather throughout

with Jamie Buttle
herrettscott 19/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
with Neil Mc
Hidden 19/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
Harri777 19/Jul/14 AltLd
with Matt Snell
Motown 16/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

In pouring rain. Nearly came of the first pitch which Luke will not let me forget. Topped out and was soaked through in seconds. Great fun though - a good wet day activity.

with Luke
Mr Tickle 16/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

So much fun on a miserable day.

with Will
Sol Armer 16/May/14 Lead O/S

Weather was far too nice, but did do it at night in approach shoes in a 4! Very very very polished, soloed first 2 pitches, only used one big hex for crux pitch though is potential for couple of nuts. But once your in, lets face it your not coming back out. Rope soloed last pitch to stake, then climbed back down on belay at the abseil and clipped to the abseil ropes to avoid taking a fall onto the belayer.

tomwright1509 16/May/14 -
Hidden 11/May/14 AltLd
Tybalt Peake 28/Apr/14 2nd
Marti999 19/Apr/14 Solo O/S
Hidden 18/Apr/14 Solo
Hidden 23/Mar/14 AltLd rpt
Hidden 16/Mar/14 AltLd
Hidden 15/Mar/14 Lead
gazj1986 08/Mar/14 Lead
Wolfy1987 NEWMC 08/Mar/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Mar/14 Lead
Hidden 20/Feb/14 AltLd O/S
Matt Smith 19/Feb/14 AltLd O/S

What a crazy route !! Nice and slippery with added hail aided the thrutching.

Hidden 21/Jan/14 2nd
peakcaver ??/2014 -
Andrew will wilson ??/2014 -
Si ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
Allanfairfechan ??/2014 Lead
with John Swinburne, Steve McNally, Steve Davis, Phil Earl, Paul Jones, Dave Bolton, BJ, Andy Odger, Neil Metcalfe
SamHallam ??/2014 Lead
Hidden ??/2014 Lead
t8t9t8 14/Dec/13 -
with StevieG, Meirion, AndyS
stratandrew 14/Dec/13 Lead RP

In Boots and with sacs which we wish we had left at the bottom.....Steve fell off the P1 twice, i fell off once. Slimey wet and tricky. Cave pitch a struggle. To crown it all we got the ab rops stuck and only just made it down before it got dark. EPIC!

StuartP 13/Dec/13 AltLd O/S

Lead the first pitch and the 'Cave' section. Abb'd off from the exit of the cave which was fun on a 30m and 45m rope! Diff in the dry, 'Interesting' in the wet, and it was very wet. Painful knee jams needed in several places.

hotfeet 13/Dec/13 AltLd
with StuartP
ashsleight 28/Nov/13 2nd O/S

Fun route but better done as a scramble. I would recommend the Abseil off instead of the walk off.

with Tom doyle, Gary Mitchell
Rhonderfull 13/Nov/13 TR β
andy_e 02/Nov/13 2nd O/S
with Mike Gallimore
ben.phillips 02/Nov/13 2nd O/S

Climbed at night, in the rain, in walking boots, and while quite drunk. Felt quite adventurous, especially abseiling off as it was getting light!

with Tom Pidcock, Mike Gallimore, Andrew Erskine
MichaelGallimore 02/Nov/13 Lead
with ben.phillips, Whiskey tom, Andrew Erskine
EmSto ?/Nov/13 2nd

Slimy slippy grim.

henry.jeffreys 27/Oct/13 Lead O/S

Very wet!

with UBMC
UBMC 27/Oct/13 2nd
ClareSenny 06/Oct/13 AltLd
ed edwards 06/Oct/13 AltLd
stuart34 05/Oct/13 2nd

Drunk, brilliant

with Niels de german
lithos 15/Sep/13 -

rain, gales, fun, hard !

with Gwen L
alek 07/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Sep/13 Lead
TGreen 07/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
Rosie Henstock 07/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
tomjemmett 24/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Me, John and Guy led. Climb was damp, but was a great laugh with a big group from the Wolverhampton Mountaineering Club!

with Andy Truswell, Lee Cartwright, Claire Duffield, Sarah Clews, Pete Dutfield, Guy Oliver, DW2, John Ridley, Dave Wilkinson, Carol Umarova
Hidden 24/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Binder 04/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Wet again. Slippery in big boots + rucksack.

with Toby
gravity 04/Aug/13 AltLd

Climbed in big boots, in the rain. Really good fun. I did the cave pitch, which was ... different!

with George
Hidden 04/Aug/13 Lead
danp 27/Jul/13 Solo

wonderful adventure

Didymus 25/Jul/13 Solo O/S

As party of four with 10-yr-old daughter and her friend. Rich led with hangover (fourth of five ascents that week for his 50th birthday!)

with Rich
boza127 24/Jul/13 2nd O/S

fantastic abseil down and in the future i shall continue the tradition of doing it pissed at night in the rain.

Hidden 13/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
JenRoberts 13/Jun/13 TR
with Carlo, Josie, Fran, Alice, Dan, Neils, Ollie, Rhys
alicee 13/Jun/13 TR
francesanncavanagh 13/Jun/13 2nd
with Fellow CA's and Carlo
mrginna 08/May/13 2nd O/S

Sick, horrible route. More like caving than climbing!

Hidden 08/May/13 2nd O/S
jack01 08/May/13 2nd O/S

Not the best

lecko 08/May/13 -
Hidden 04/May/13 Lead O/S
Dan Geh 25/Apr/13 AltLd O/S

Lovely apart from the approach pitches, need to do in the dark now!

AMJ098 ?/Apr/13 AltLd
with Dan Geh
Hidden 03/Feb/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Feb/13 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2013 -
westong ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 TR
chubbyclimber 17/Nov/12 Lead
with Steve, The Nic Monk
Hidden 04/Nov/12 2nd
Hidden 16/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
Binder 16/Sep/12 Lead O/S

A hoot. So wet even the darkest recesses of the cave was running with water.

with Rafal S, Will B
general 16/Sep/12 AltLd O/S


MikeB1 26/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

Horrible, totally overgrown. More climbing trees than rock

Alan Dixon 22/Jun/12 Lead

Done in the wet, really enjoyable scrap. Good wet day option. Chris led the final topout. Reccomended. Left dignity and technique at the base of the climb along with our bags.

with Chris Wright
Sardien 14/Jun/12 AltLd rpt

Prime conditions for this one. Somehow the insight of the chimney was bone dry. Possibly the only bit if dry rock in Wales at the time

with Helena Robinson
Hidden 08/Jun/12 2nd
stephen ashworth 08/Jun/12 Lead
with nick andrews, floss_81
deklan 06/Jun/12 AltLd
with Niel, jak
pielips 03/Jun/12 AltLd
Ray Sparks 31/May/12 2nd

Rain so we done this climb good fun

with mike L
sgl0jd 19/May/12 -
gw3285 07/May/12 AltLd
jakethepeg 25/Apr/12 2nd
Hidden 05/Apr/12 AltLd
Hidden 26/Feb/12 Lead
minus273degrees 21/Jan/12 2nd
with megan, timboroo
Cardi 01/Jan/12 Lead O/S

Great New Year fun. Chimney very wet!

with Matt T, Nina, Clare D
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden 26/Oct/11 Solo O/S
Hidden 16/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Zoe Cockburn ?/Oct/11 -
malc 24/Sep/11 AltLd O/S

Ld Pitch 3

with Paul Scott, Nick
pastep 04/Sep/11 AltLd

Left campsite at midnight, back by 4am. a great adventure!

with Tibor, Woody, ebf
ebf 04/Sep/11 AltLd
with Tibor Barnoczki, Paul Stephenson, Woody
PaulHermes 02/Sep/11 AltLd O/S

Never again!!!

with Tibor
Hidden 20/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
hazeysunshine 20/Aug/11 2nd dog

and 9 other people...

with Sue H, Helen L, Fred, Alison
Hidden 26/Jul/11 AltLd
Krystalli 16/Jul/11 2nd

Party climb in the wet!...

with Andy, Kieran, Emma, Aidan, Cat, Dan, Luke
Homes 16/Jul/11 AltLd
Hidden 31/May/11 2nd
Rhys_Alun 28/May/11 AltLd

Awesome route. A little bit more difficult in parts. Fantastic route tho

with John Stringer, Red Dragon
jstringer 28/May/11 2nd O/S
Sam Simpson 07/May/11 Lead O/S

super fun

alias dave 07/May/11 Solo O/S
with Sam.EB
Neil Metcalfe101 02/May/11 AltLd

What a laugh! Ronnie and Mark were in second group. Dry climb which was novel for route.

with Allan Mac
Libby 04/Apr/11 2nd

strange but wicked route!

xusa 15/Mar/11 2nd O/S

Climb in the rain, very very wet but fun! A real battle, what a chimney! i ended up with no energy i couldn't even lift my arms!

Andrew Lamb 11/Mar/11 2nd dnf

wet and cold, did not summit, abseiled back down.

rob k 11/Mar/11 AltLd O/S

Wet 1st Pitch

Lapepina 20/Feb/11 2nd
paulerussell 20/Feb/11 AltLd O/S

Soloed 4th pitch (scramble up to ledge with holly tree)

with Isabel Garcia-Hermoza, Alex Angell, Jon, Maria Walker
Hidden 05/Feb/11 2nd
Tightsgirl 05/Feb/11 Lead dnf

Pouring with water and did it in big boots. Would have been brilliant in the dry! Backed off...

with Josh Arnott, Jake Parker Bishop
jcooper8 05/Feb/11 2nd
ian2707 04/Feb/11 2nd
andy dunn 21/Jan/11 2nd
with J
uncontrollable 01/Jan/11 AltLd O/S

first climb of the year, tripping wet and excellent fun!

with Alan T, Alan B
Monkey_Alan 01/Jan/11 AltLd rpt

Led P2,4. Very wet before getting into the chimney. Perfect conditions ;).

mataius ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
popov86 12/Dec/10 AltLd
Tom Seccombe 17/Nov/10 2nd O/S
Luke Brooks 01/Oct/10 -
moelfras 18/Sep/10 Lead
minus273degrees 11/Sep/10 2nd dog
jayrenegade 04/Sep/10 Solo O/S

Bloody mental trying to find the thing. The description in pravs snowdon guide was completely wrong. Had a look in another guide book and the description is different. Worth doing. Going to night solo it next time i'm at the hotel.

with Luke, Prav
Hidden ?/Sep/10 Lead
Martin Brierley 29/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Like nothing I've climbed before - I probably got the bum deal by going second and having to haul the rucksack(s) through the chimney - took forever. A few bit of it required not too much deep breathing and careful location of gear on the harness. Wished I'd had chalk and rockboots for the start, glad I didn't.

with Rich Coupland
mol 21/Aug/10 AltLd
with Luke, Sarah Smith, Jesse
lukas richardo ?/Aug/10 Solo

splendid. despite having lost out on the true onsight. (to climb when heavily intoxicated.) i was pathetically sober on far too sunny a day. ill make sure im totally mashed next time to make up for it. promise.

with prav, jamie
ed edwards ?/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Awesome route. Best done with a full oversized rucksack...

with martin brierly, tim bateson, richard coupland
Harri777 24/Jul/10 AltLd

Ridiculous. In a good way. While on the climb we saw a man with an umbrella (who retreated, perhaps wisely) and a man with a plaster cast on his arm (who did not- respect due).

with Liz
Dizz 24/Jul/10 AltLd O/S

Ridiculous - wet, shame that I did not have an umbrella. We cheated by wearing rock shoes - rather than nails but i do recommend tweed for friction.

Sardien 24/Jul/10 2nd O/S

Perfect day for that one! Pissing down, beers on the walk in and Rhod with his hand in a cast squirming up on Simons shoudlers :-) Brilliant fun!

with Thor Veen, Rhodri Morgan, Simon Moore
NB Pixel 24/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
with Karl
Nigel Bond 21/Jul/10 Lead
with Stuart Bond
climbfan 14/Jul/10 2nd O/S

Martin leading me and Tam into the darkness! The chimney was a hoot, we all did it differently. We did all 4 pitches then walked off. A true Welsh classic. Sunny start, rainy finish. Did it in big boots to make things more interesting.

with Martin Holland, Tam Risk
Cacyn 14/Jul/10 2nd O/S
with climbfan, Martin Holland
Hidden 27/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Jun/10 Lead rpt
Hidden ?/Jun/10 Solo
Hidden ?/Jun/10 Solo
tedburt 29/May/10 AltLd O/S
with Aaron Burdett
Tony Little 15/May/10 Solo rpt
Hidden 03/May/10 AltLd
andy dunn 25/Apr/10 AltLd rpt

Chimney pitch was awesome - only slightly wet, nothing difficult, just good old hard work to squirm your way up it!

with Alan
Hidden 20/Apr/10 Lead O/S
partz 24/Mar/10 AltLd O/S

Seconded Tom's pitch in approach shoes, then used climbing shoes for my pitch through the chimney. Was raining but awesome, headtorch would have been handy.

Matthew Edwards 24/Mar/10 AltLd O/S

In Walking boots, in the rain. Jamie took 1st and 2nd pitch. I took on the cave, spend a good 45+mins gettin over the 1st chockstone, very polished. Jamie took final pitch to the peg then gave me a decent waist belay for me to second. My Nike watch snapped off after the cave, just watched it roll down the edge, gutted.

JamieGreig 24/Mar/10 AltLd O/S
tdudley 24/Mar/10 AltLd RP

I lead 1st and 3rd pitch, Matt lead second (the chimney). Big Boots and very wet.

Noodles 19/Mar/10 Solo O/S

My 21st birthday climb with Jill, Sam and Ben :)

sthame 19/Mar/10 Solo O/S

noodles birthday with jill and ben

Jillybean 19/Mar/10 Solo

Martyns 21st with wurzel, Sam and martyn

Hidden 19/Mar/10 Solo
Ows ?/Mar/10 2nd
dan-8990 20/Feb/10 Solo O/S

in the wet in me wellies!

Hidden ?/Jan/10 AltLd
Jack Manfredi ??/2010 TR
Glyn Davidson 06/Dec/09 Lead O/S

Done with with a party of 7, the majority of which being large in girth, all with hangovers, in the rain and hail. No Moonlight though.

with Daz Haycock, Jason V, Rod Vandam, Lord Jones of Grange, Joss, Colin A, Ali
Hidden 06/Dec/09 -
colina 06/Dec/09 TR dnf

didnt fancy this at all .did the first pitch to the chimney entrance .loked a bit of a squeeze for me so bottled out this time.more akin to caving than climbing ,realised i'm not good in confined spaces . jason did well along with joss,rod daz,glyn ,ali and myself ,great locality though,horible day ,cold and wet but enjoyable all the same.Wont be beaten though "i'll be back" part of the cmc weekend...

JasonV 06/Dec/09 2nd

The chimney is something to be experienced. As Glyn said, not for the large of girth. It mangled a couple of my cams good style.

Hidden 06/Dec/09 AltLd
chubbyclimber 15/Nov/09 -

Great fun in the wet. Bit of a squeeze in the chimney, had to take pack off and haul it.

with Fred
kiwi boy 15/Nov/09 2nd O/S

Conditions bad driving rain at times and very slimy wet rock(in big boots)Climbed as part of AMC group of seven. Nice 3 metre air time for Sarah on leading the second pitch in front of us.(Ok though) Climbed as a three. Put the first two pitches together. Although the crux is not offically until the start of the chimmey by far the second pitch was the most problematic having to move left of the crack which take size 7 hex nicely. Chimmey fun with a good flakes for the final pitch. Credit to Dave for taking the first two pitches. One definately to do again but in good weather in rock boots

with Mark, Dave B
fishinwater ?/Nov/09 2nd
with Bald eagle
dan-8990 19/Oct/09 Solo

unsuccessful search for a yellow sling!

dan-8990 17/Oct/09 Solo

the traditional way again!

with NM
dan-8990 16/Oct/09 Solo

the traditional way!

with NM
Nathanael-Mc 16/Oct/09 Solo O/S
Keith Jones 10/Oct/09 AltLd

Very entertaining, bruised from head to toe!

with Tecwyn
Clogwyn y Gwin 10/Oct/09 AltLd O/S

Alt leads with a very patient partner. Im glad he used his Head or I SWARE Id still be on that chock stone. All in all enjoyable, in a perverse way.

with K J
Stoff ?/Oct/09 AltLd O/S

Cave or climb ?? Fantastic abseil off the top !

Hidden 28/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 28/Sep/09 AltLd
Sgt. Vest 23/Sep/09 Solo O/S
Nathanael-Mc 17/Sep/09 Solo
Neil Metcalfe101 30/Aug/09 Lead

Allan led the scramble up to the start which was fun in itself but I led the mad chimney route. Weird. Pitch out of the chimney at the top very easy but enjoyable no the less. metal spike at top.

with Allan Mac
gareth scott borthwick 22/Aug/09 Solo O/S
scorky345 20/Aug/09 AltLd
with Tim Oates, Owen Pearce
emlynroberts 16/Aug/09 AltLd
with S A Jones
simozzer 16/Aug/09 AltLd dnf

Tried this route out as a bad weather alternative and wore big boots to climb a route for the first ever time. Ran away screaming like a little girl due to the general slippyness of the first 2 pitches.

with Ian & Matt
Hjort 16/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
with Si Creer
Hidden 16/Aug/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 16/Aug/09 Lead O/S
rocklobster 16/Aug/09 AltLd
with Simon and Ian
BennoC 02/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
with Stace
staceated 02/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
with ben
Hidden 18/Jul/09 Solo
simon geering 09/Jul/09 2nd
Hidden 04/Jul/09 Lead O/S
tomtherockboy 04/Jul/09 -
Hidden ?/Jul/09 -
Hidden 07/Jun/09 2nd
Bennykr 06/Jun/09 AltLd O/S

Done in the poring rain, but was amazing, and very funny

with Dad
reinschgm 06/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
with Ben
Jillybean 06/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
with Fiona
lukewilliams 06/Jun/09 -
sarah hawker 31/May/09 2nd O/S

First multipitch climb, turned out to be more of a caving expedition!

with Rachael Harrison, Dave SB
davesb 31/May/09 Lead
frume 30/May/09 Lead O/S
with Ian
ndugu 22/May/09 2nd O/S
with Antony (SA)
allanfarrell 22/May/09 Lead O/S
with Emma Turnbull
peterdevlin 18/May/09 2nd dog

Desparate: give me a proper cave any day!

with Bryn Williams
Hidden 26/Apr/09 AltLd O/S
mike_lumby ?/Apr/09 TR

Good fun and brilliant views from the top.

fizzychewitt 22/Mar/09 Lead
with Phil
Hidden 07/Mar/09 2nd O/S
sqirt 01/Feb/09 2nd

A Classic which is hairy in the dark and high winds.

with Hiliary Thaker
adam06 24/Jan/09 AltLd

finally! 3 attempts at this climb. frist time we tried in the dark, but my head torch ran out of batteries on the walk in. Second time it was day, but very wet... we got badly lost and didn't even encounter the chimney. finally finished the route today, was light for the first half then dark for the rest!

with mike weaver, Hilary Theaker and david rider
hils theaker 24/Jan/09 Lead

fun route, but crux is pretty exhausting! finished route in the dark

with squrt, adam +mike
Mikelo 24/Jan/09 AltLd
with adam
danleyden 22/Nov/08 Lead

In pouring rain, big boots and about as much friction as a waterslide - the best place to be in the conditions :)

with Chris Townsend
jonnie3430 09/Nov/08 Lead O/S

Instruction in multipitch.

with Tom and Craig
Hidden 09/Nov/08 2nd O/S
lukehunt 25/Oct/08 Lead
with Jon Stokes
Hidden 25/Oct/08 Solo O/S
lukea 25/Oct/08 Lead O/S

in the pissing rain. brilliant fun.

with felix
treeminkies 25/Oct/08 -
with carole and alan
Weedyskid ?/Oct/08 Solo rpt

took a group of 35 through on a cold and starry night with candles for light

Hidden 28/Aug/08 2nd
alwyn101 22/Aug/08 2nd
with Dylan CMC
garetheverett 22/Aug/08 -
with Jeremy
Hidden 03/Aug/08 Lead
Julian Prieto 19/Jul/08 AltLd O/S

Did the recommended way - in a large group whilst raining, rock was very slippery!

tavarua 19/Jul/08 2nd dog
with wmc
Monkey_Alan 19/Jul/08 2nd dog
with Wessex MC
jsw1 28/Jun/08 2nd
with Jo Medcalf, Sarah Medcalf, Christian Lenehan, David Medcalf, Cathy Woodhead
jom 28/Jun/08 2nd O/S

'interesting'! I still have the bruises from squirming up the chimney...

with the Medcalf Clan plus 2
Hidden 22/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
thompson1000 22/Jun/08 Solo
Hidden 01/Jun/08 2nd O/S
Mike Goldthorp 30/May/08 Solo O/S


with Sam Jones, Kieran King, Matt Burdican, Jill Reinsch, Chris Shipway
dan_o_b ?/May/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden 12/Apr/08 Lead O/S
knicos 04/Apr/08 2nd
Hidden 21/Mar/08 AltLd
MoWalker3 21/Mar/08 AltLd
Hidden 08/Mar/08 2nd dnf
Karlos 08/Mar/08 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 2nd O/S
jade Edwards Leaney ??/2008 Lead O/S

did it in the rain, wicked.

alwyn101 14/Sep/07 AltLd O/S
with Joey Bethesda
Hidden 31/Aug/07 Lead O/S
featuresforfeet 28/Jun/07 Solo
Hidden 07/Jun/07 AltLd O/S
mick1jones 27/May/07 2nd dog

Amazing route - thrutched up the crux - didn't really get it - used up about 75% of my energy!

with Dave Wilkinson
Hidden 27/May/07 Lead
Hidden 13/May/07 2nd O/S
A Crook 06/May/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden 21/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
keith robo 21/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
with James Gerrie/Gareth Pierce
tumbling wizard ?/Apr/07 Lead
Glyn 18/Mar/07 -

Took 1st leading fall onto nut whilst leading the 1st pitch in the wet in boots.

with Perry Batteman
mortimea 28/Jan/07 2nd
with Roger Jackson, Pete Sanderson
danleyden ?/Jan/07 2nd O/S
Jennyjames ?/Jan/07 Lead
with Dan
fran04 ??/2007 Solo
Hidden ??/2007 2nd
Keith Jones 21/Nov/06 Lead

Also Graham

with ali
Hidden 12/Nov/06 AltLd O/S
Dan Shirley 12/Oct/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden 01/Oct/06 Solo
Hidden 17/Sep/06 AltLd O/S
Renegade_Pony 13/Jul/06 2nd
with Owen Barnicott, Ewan Brown
benchwarmer ?/Jul/06 -
with Owen Barnicott, Justin Hughes
victim of mathematics 27/May/06 AltLd O/S
crossdressingrodney 27/May/06 AltLd O/S
TRNovice 30/Dec/05 -

In the rain with a group as is traditional

with cider nut, featuresforfeet, Jenn
Jenn 30/Dec/05 -
with cider nut, featuresforfeet, TRNovice
James Meredith ?/Nov/05 AltLd O/S
with Simon
chrishedgehog 09/Sep/05 Lead O/S

I have put "clean onsight" but nothing about this route should have the word "clean" associated with it! Still, it's a magnificent experience in a storm.

with Clare Wilkie
Ann S ?/Sep/05 -

Total fun climb-couldn't stop laughing, but Gerry wasn't amused.

with Bill Harrision/Gerry Ryan/Dave Bartholomew
mattyork2 30/Jul/05 AltLd

A great day out, preceeding a great night out, making the best of the most minging but classic N Wales weather!

with josh, harry, nick and an aussie
bobette 03/May/05 2nd
KeithW 17/Apr/05 AltLd

Very odd route! More like caving. Very wet again.

with Mike Nuttall
2RoyalAnglian ?/Apr/05 -

fantastic route!!! perfect for a wet day!!!

with plas y brenin r/c course
Climb Rox ??/2005 Lead

several leads

Keith Jones ?/Dec/04 2nd
with David
Simon Caldwell 23/Oct/04 AltLd O/S

I led the short 2nd pitch, Rob led the rest

with Rob, Liz and Jenny
lithos 23/Oct/04 AltLd O/S

simon did the hard part (at the beginning pitch 2) I ran the rest into 1 pitch !!!!

Hidden ?/Sep/04 AltLd
Howard J 26/Jun/04 2nd

Massed ascent by Innominata MC in the wet

samwelli 05/Apr/04 AltLd O/S
with Steve Hobbs
broc 23/Nov/03 AltLd O/S
with Mike
Hidden ?/Sep/03 Lead
Hidden 15/Aug/03 2nd
Ian JL ?/Jun/02 Lead O/S
Alastair Hudson 19/May/02 Lead O/S
with Nik Weston, Nic Jones
Hidden 27/Aug/00 Solo rpt
Hidden 22/Apr/00 Solo
leonjones ??/2000 2nd
with Pete Miller
kjbix ??/2000 Solo
with Richard Beech
Lenny ??/2000 -
with Steve
Hidden 09/Oct/98 Lead
iskra2000 04/May/98 AltLd

Good fun on a wet and drizzly day.

with Danuska Rycerz
Hidden 16/Apr/98 AltLd
dionhughes ??/1998 Solo O/S

Nice tunnel to climb in. I remember a large ledge which I had a bit of trouble mantleshelving about halfway up.

with Bob Bertalot
zero six ??/1998 Lead
Simonfarfaraway ??/1998 AltLd

Did with Dave and Andy the day after my summer ML course at plas y brenin

DavidR 27/Apr/97 Solo O/S
with John Marston and Andy Owen
Hidden 19/Apr/97 AltLd
Callum Anderson ?/Sep/96 -
gd303uk ?/Jul/96 Solo O/S
with John Rogers
Hidden 01/Apr/96 Solo O/S
Ian Archer 10/Sep/95 AltLd O/S

What a laugh!

with CDW
chris d williams 10/Sep/95 Solo
five ?/Feb/95 AltLd O/S
ZA ??/1995 -

My first proper climb!

with family
Bullybones ??/1995 -
Hidden 25/Dec/94 AltLd
Tom Vivian 20/Nov/94 Lead

teaching multipitch

Hidden 03/Aug/94 TR
Hidden 15/Jun/94 Lead
Tom Vivian 16/Feb/94 Lead

group of 8

Hidden 22/Apr/93 Lead O/S
RichardP 09/Jun/91 -

moving roped together

Hidden 03/Jun/91 Lead
James Moyle ??/1991 2nd

with Newport MC

Nick Biven ??/1990 -
Nick Biven ??/1990 -
nigehughes ?/Apr/89 AltLd
with Mark Troy
nigehughes ?/Jan/89 Lead
with Chris Hewitt
Hidden 12/Dec/87 Lead
Hidden 16/Sep/87 Lead
Iain Thow 06/Sep/87 Lead

Mostly soloed, led through route pitch. Wasn't dark but might as well have been given the weather.

with Bob Lister, Steve Ball
nigehughes ?/May/87 Lead
with Chris Hewitt, Ted Wellstood
Hidden 26/Feb/87 Lead
michael burrows 22/Jun/85 2nd O/S

and john carpenter, started around 11pm and finished at dawn

with helen swygart
babymoac 04/Nov/84 -
with MTW & Paul R
Hidden ?/Aug/84 Solo O/S
Nevil ??/1982 -

Do not know year

mikej 17/Jan/81 Lead
with Andy Auty, Brian Norris, Geoff Williams
Backinthegame ?/Jul/80 AltLd

I was 12 - dad let me lead the main Chimney pitch... Mum did it with us.

with Dad
RichardMc 30/Mar/80 Lead
with Paul Richards, John Antill
Ghastly Rubberfeet ??/1980 AltLd
Rob Davies ??/1980 Lead

Date? This was in the afternoon after starting on the Welsh 14 3000' peaks in the morning. The attempt foundered at lunch-time in the Pen-y-Gwryd after a few pints of beer, though some did carry on over the Glyders. I think there is some additional climbing, starting low in the woods up mossy rock.

RichardMc 28/Oct/79 Solo
with Patrick Radford, Betty Seifert
rogerskews 29/Apr/79 AltLd
with John Blackburn
mikej 25/Mar/78 AltLd
with Mike Mason
George Elliott 21/Mar/76 AltLd O/S
Bolt Phobia 14/Feb/76 AltLd
RichardMc 05/Oct/75 Solo O/S
with Betty Seifert
Mark Kemball 24/Aug/75 Solo
leland stamper ?/Mar/75 Lead O/S
Sean Kelly ?/Oct/74 -

Mass ascent with a KMC group on a very wet day.

Hidden ?/Sep/74 2nd
mikej 19/Jul/74 AltLd
with Mike Byles
johnny20whales 01/Jul/74 2nd
kjacks ?/Jul/74 Solo

With a large group of idiots from Nant Peris

Howard J ??/1974 2nd

Massed ascent for Dave Ball's 21st

with Reading University MC
Ian Jones ??/1973 AltLd O/S
with Bill Dean
JonG ??/1970 -
tapley 07/Apr/69 2nd
with Dave Hearnshaw
Hidden 27/May/67 Lead
eroica64 ??/1965 2nd
with Keith Pritchard
eroica64 ??/1965 Solo
jcw 26/Nov/64 -

For the first of manytimes June 1993 with M. Harris Jim Geirge and ANOther

uphillnow ??/1963 Lead
with John Sargeant
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