Lockwood's Chimney*** VD
[apparent first pitch of Lockwood's Chimney 
(rather over grown scramble), 3 kb]

Rockfax Description
A route of great character. It is unusual in that most of the climbing takes place inside the cliff! It is traditional to climb it on a wet day with a large team for added entertainment. Start by scrambling up to the base of the crag, to the right of a streaked wall, by a prominent rock arch.
1) 20m. Move up and right to a short wall and find a crack. Climb this to a ledge and move right to a tree at the base of the chimney.
2) 8m. Back-and-foot frantically to gain the ledge/path in the chimney on the right.
3) 20m. Walk along the base of the chimney to where the pathway ends. Climb up the chimney again to exit back into the daylight at a large ledge.
4) 15m. An exposed and polished final slab leads to a belay on the top of the crag. © ROCKFAX

UKC Logbook Description
A historic route, somewhere between caving and climbing. The tradition states that it should be done at night in terrible conditions by a large party...
1.From the marble arch descend right to wall with an obvious crack. climb this and scramble up to another crack.
2. climb the crack exiting left onto ledges. Walk right to giant flake, belay at tree
3. Enter the darkness, in front of you is a tight chimney crack leading deep into the rock. Climb up to the chockstone and scramble deeper into the cliff over several short boulders. Emerge after 120ft into the light again by large flake.
4. Save the walk by abseiling off the flake (old rope around flake) or climb straight up to metal spike. Descend to left by large gulley.

A Lockwood 1908

Ticklists: The troglodyte squeeze specials, North Wales Rock Graded List, Through Routes!, Classic Chimney - England and Wales, Unusual and Interesting Routes You Must Do VS- E2, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, AMC Uni Ticklist, Enigmatic Affection: The Dark Art of Chimneying, Thrutch and Clutch.

Photo: apparent first pitch of Lockwood's Chimney (rather over grown scramble) © SnowyWales
View all 14 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 419 logbooks, and on 59 wishlists.

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Sep/15

static266 - 2nd O/S - 07/Sep/15

Led P2 and P4. Great fun, made all the more so by a very large rucksack for the second. Serious thuggery on P2 enhanced by a bat flying in my face.
Mr Fuller - AltLd O/S - 30/Aug/15 with Liz Smith

The most I've laughed on a climb for a while! Hauling the bags was interesting, the 2nd and 3rd pitches were great fun.
lizard-16-07 - AltLd O/S - 30/Aug/15 with Matt Fuller

spalice - Solo O/S - 21/Aug/15

Michael Bonallie - 2nd O/S - 21/Aug/15

Hidden - 21/Aug/15

th0ma5_ander50n - TR dog - 21/Aug/15

Hidden - 21/Aug/15

Hidden - 2nd - 19/Aug/15

Lead/ grovelled all pitches, only needed on size 5 dragon and a draw, very wet after a couple of days of rain. Soloed then down climbed the last pitch for the ab.
Mike505 - Lead O/S - 12/Aug/15 with Henry

Dan Geh - AltLd rpt - 05/Aug/15 with Matt, CGDStewart

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/Aug/15

James Oakes - AltLd O/S - 27/Jun/15 with Gareth Hooson

Fragmod - Lead - 27/Jun/15

climbEdclimb - Solo O/S - 24/Jun/15

tomwright1509 - Solo rpt - 23/Jun/15

Hidden - Lead - 22/Jun/15

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 11/Jun/15

What is this! ha ha!
bede.west - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/15 with Thea, Stopsy

Stopsy - AltLd O/S - 06/Jun/15 with Kinge, Bede, Thea

Mike.Kinge - AltLd O/S - 06/Jun/15 with Thea, Stopsy

TheaSmea - AltLd - 06/Jun/15 with James

Climbed up, climbed back down. Some of the most polished rock I've seen!
ianstevens - Lead - 31/May/15 with Mike Stuart

Hidden - 28/May/15

JonnySchofield - Solo O/S - 25/May/15 with Jo Philip

lewk_c - AltLd O/S - 10/May/15 with Jack Lewin, Nick Lyons

Lead half of first pitch, too wet for 2nd half! Awesome route.
Jack_Lewin - 2nd β - 10/May/15 with Nick Lyons, lewk_c

SPD224 - AltLd - 02/May/15 with Andy Bunnage

yetidj4x - 2nd - 30/Apr/15

yetidj4x - 2nd - 30/Apr/15

Lots of amusement in a large jolly party of 5, moving together up the chimney. Abbed off before the top pitch to avoid the horrible gully descent.
Babika - 2nd - 04/Apr/15 with Lucy Evans, Stuart Aylott, Chris Peka, Kiwi Pete

SAKMC mass-ascent of the weekend. After a week of heavy rain it was very damp inside but still clean and great fun. Felt more like VDiff/Severe in the damp. Abbed off at the end of the chimney - top pitch didn't look worth it.
cdpuk - Lead O/S - 04/Apr/15 with Kiwi Pete, Stuart Aylott, Rosi Yule, Lucy Evans

ned_85 - 02/Apr/15 with Kate Edhouse, Emily Bridger

FreddieSmith - Solo - Apr/15 with Luke Foster

Ewan Russell - AltLd O/S - 23/Mar/15

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 15/Mar/15

Hidden - Solo - 08/Mar/15

ash longreach - AltLd - Mar/15 with John

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Feb/15

Awesome adventure!
UncleMephisto - AltLd O/S - 21/Feb/15 with Sam Wainwright

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/Jan/15

Led p1, p3 and p4. My partner graded this VD - very damp (done in the rain as required)! Didn't quite get the first pitch right - started up just to the right of the arch then scrambled almost horizontally right for some distance until reaching the base of the chimney. Hauling bags through the crack was good fun! Top pitch seemed pretty unprotected though...
andrewmcleod - AltLd O/S - 25/Jan/15 with Zack Coleman

Hidden - 2015

Tim Sparrow - 2015

Hidden - 10/Dec/14

conwatts91 - TR - 08/Nov/14

JDSwain - Solo - 19/Oct/14 with Sam Radcliffe, Rich Cannel

mrginna - Lead O/S - 19/Oct/14 with Tim

samrad - Solo - 19/Oct/14 with john, rich

Wet with walking boots,left sacks at Marble Arch, got a few bruises on the way through
cat88 - 19/Oct/14

Qureshi - Solo O/S - 22/Sep/14

Great fun but I will have to come back in bad weather. Very very polished, abseiled down and the ropes got stuck so we had to climb it again! Soloed up the whole route in 6 minutes. Not too bad!
adamre12 - Solo O/S - 21/Sep/14 with Dan Qureshi

Go through the arch, drop down walk along a narrow path to reach a short crack into the trees climb this it leads to another larger cracked wall. A large tree at the top of this crack marks the enterance to the chimney. Dont think I found these cracks last time! Was very wet, much more of a fight than last time, partly because the second crack is tricky but mostly because the feet were slipping off everything on the chimney pitch. Done in 5 pitches and a walk along the middle cave section. The sack was an error but glad of the shoes walking down the gully.
emlynroberts - AltLd - 30/Aug/14 with Matadoors

Matadoors - 2nd - 30/Aug/14 with emlynroberts

carl_123 - AltLd - 26/Aug/14

bailed at the end of the first chimney pitch
Matadoors - Lead dnf - 02/Aug/14 with jana

runestone - 2nd - 02/Aug/14

Jani_J - 2nd dnf - 02/Aug/14 with Matt

spags88 - Lead - 31/Jul/14 with Ryan gorman

ryan1410 - 2nd O/S - 31/Jul/14 with Jamie Buttle

herrettscott - AltLd O/S - 19/Jul/14 with Neil Mc

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 19/Jul/14

Harri777 - AltLd - 19/Jul/14 with Matt Snell

In pouring rain. Nearly came of the first pitch which Luke will not let me forget. Topped out and was soaked through in seconds. Great fun though - a good wet day activity.
Motown - AltLd O/S - 16/Jul/14 with Luke

So much fun on a miserable day.
Mr Tickle - AltLd O/S - 16/Jul/14 with Will

Weather was far too nice, but did do it at night in approach shoes in a 4! Very very very polished, soloed first 2 pitches, only used one big hex for crux pitch though is potential for couple of nuts. But once your in, lets face it your not coming back out. Rope soloed last pitch to stake, then climbed back down on belay at the abseil and clipped to the abseil ropes to avoid taking a fall onto the belayer.
Sol Armer - Lead O/S - 16/May/14

tomwright1509 - 16/May/14

Marti999 - Solo O/S - 19/Apr/14

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 23/Mar/14

Hidden - AltLd - 16/Mar/14

Hidden - Lead - 15/Mar/14

gazj1986 - Lead - 08/Mar/14

Wolfy1987 NEWMC - Lead O/S - 08/Mar/14

Hidden - Lead - 01/Mar/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 20/Feb/14

What a crazy route !! Nice and slippery with added hail aided the thrutching.
Matt Smith - AltLd O/S - 19/Feb/14 with Joe Premier

Hidden - 2nd - 21/Jan/14

peakcaver - 2014

Andrew will wilson - 2014

Si - 2014

mike mo - 2014

Hidden - 2014

Allanfairfechan - 2014

SamHallam - Lead - 2014

t8t9t8 - 14/Dec/13 with StevieG, Meirion, AndyS

In Boots and with sacs which we wish we had left at the bottom.....Steve fell off the P1 twice, i fell off once. Slimey wet and tricky. Cave pitch a struggle. To crown it all we got the ab rops stuck and only just made it down before it got dark. EPIC!
stratandrew - Lead RP - 14/Dec/13 with Steve Graham

Lead the first pitch and the 'Cave' section. Abb'd off from the exit of the cave which was fun on a 30m and 45m rope! Diff in the dry, 'Interesting' in the wet, and it was very wet. Painful knee jams needed in several places.
StuartP - AltLd O/S - 13/Dec/13 with Alan Mountford

hotfeet - AltLd - 13/Dec/13 with StuartP

Fun route but better done as a scramble. I would recommend the Abseil off instead of the walk off.
ashsleight - 2nd O/S - 28/Nov/13 with Tom doyle, Gary Mitchell

Rhonderfull - TR β - 13/Nov/13

andy_e - 2nd O/S - 02/Nov/13 with Mike Gallimore

Climbed at night, in the rain, in walking boots, and while quite drunk. Felt quite adventurous, especially abseiling off as it was getting light!
ben.phillips - 2nd O/S - 02/Nov/13 with Tom Pidcock, Mike Gallimore, Andrew Erskine

Slimy slippy grim.
EmSto - 2nd - Nov/13

Very wet!
henry.jeffreys - Lead O/S - 27/Oct/13 with UBMC

ClareSenny - AltLd - 06/Oct/13 with Andrew Edwards

ed edwards - AltLd - 06/Oct/13 with Clare Gardiner

Drunk, brilliant
stuart34 - 2nd - 05/Oct/13 with Niels de german

rain, gales, fun, hard !
lithos - 15/Sep/13 with Gwen L

alek - Lead O/S - 07/Sep/13 with Katie Jeans, Phil Pavey, Tom Murray, Andy Barwell, Stuart Ward, Martin Lane, Rosie Henstock, Tom Green

Hidden - Lead - 07/Sep/13

TGreen - AltLd O/S - 07/Sep/13 with Martin Lane, Stu Ward, Andy Barwell, Tom Murray, Phil Pavey, Katy Jeanes, alek, Rosie Henstock

Rosie Henstock - AltLd O/S - 07/Sep/13 with Phil Pavey, Tom Green

Me, John and Guy led. Climb was damp, but was a great laugh with a big group from the Wolverhampton Mountaineering Club!
tomjemmett - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/13 with Andy Truswell, Lee Cartwright, Claire Duffield, Sarah Clews, Pete Dutfield, Guy Oliver, DW2, John Ridley, Dave Wilkinson, Carol Umarova

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/13

Wet again. Slippery in big boots + rucksack.
Binder - AltLd O/S - 04/Aug/13 with Toby

Climbed in big boots, in the rain. Really good fun. I did the cave pitch, which was ... different!
gravity - AltLd - 04/Aug/13 with George

Hidden - Lead - 04/Aug/13

wonderful adventure
danp - Solo - 27/Jul/13

As party of four with 10-yr-old daughter and her friend. Rich led with hangover (fourth of five ascents that week for his 50th birthday!)
Jon Didymus - Solo O/S - 25/Jul/13 with Rich

fantastic abseil down and in the future i shall continue the tradition of doing it pissed at night in the rain.
boza127 - 2nd O/S - 24/Jul/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 13/Jun/13

JenRoberts - TR - 13/Jun/13 with Carlo, Josie, Fran, Alice, Dan, Neils, Ollie, Rhys

alicee - TR - 13/Jun/13

francesanncavanagh - 2nd - 13/Jun/13 with Fellow CA's and Carlo

Sick, horrible route. More like caving than climbing!
mrginna - 2nd O/S - 08/May/13

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 08/May/13

Not the best
jack01 - 2nd O/S - 08/May/13

lecko - 08/May/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/May/13

Lovely apart from the approach pitches, need to do in the dark now!
Dan Geh - AltLd O/S - 25/Apr/13 with Adam Jordan

AMJ098 - AltLd - Apr/13 with Dan Geh

A CRAC effort it boots - Damp and slippery but an achievement nevertheless. Henry lead the chimney itself
robjdc - Lead O/S - 03/Feb/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Feb/13

Hidden - 2013

westong - 2013

Hidden - TR - 2013

chubbyclimber - Lead - 17/Nov/12 with Steve, The Nic Monk

Hidden - 2nd - 04/Nov/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Sep/12

A hoot. So wet even the darkest recesses of the cave was running with water.
Binder - Lead O/S - 16/Sep/12 with Rafal S, Will B

general - AltLd O/S - 16/Sep/12

Horrible, totally overgrown. More climbing trees than rock
MikeB1 - AltLd O/S - 26/Jul/12

Done in the wet, really enjoyable scrap. Good wet day option. Chris led the final topout. Reccomended. Left dignity and technique at the base of the climb along with our bags.
Alan Dixon - Lead - 22/Jun/12 with Chris Wright

Prime conditions for this one. Somehow the insight of the chimney was bone dry. Possibly the only bit if dry rock in Wales at the time
Sardien - AltLd rpt - 14/Jun/12 with Helena Robinson

Hidden - 2nd - 08/Jun/12

stephen ashworth - Lead - 08/Jun/12 with nick andrews, floss_81

deklan - AltLd - 06/Jun/12 with Niel, jak

pielips - AltLd - 03/Jun/12

Rain so we done this climb good fun
Ray Sparks - 2nd - 31/May/12 with mike L

sgl0jd - 19/May/12

gw3285 - AltLd - 07/May/12

jakethepeg - 2nd - 25/Apr/12

Hidden - AltLd - 05/Apr/12

Hidden - Lead - 26/Feb/12

minus273degrees - 2nd - 21/Jan/12 with megan, timboroo

Great New Year fun. Chimney very wet!
Cardi - Lead O/S - 01/Jan/12 with Matt T, Nina, Clare D

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - Solo O/S - 26/Oct/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/11

Ld Pitch 3
malc - AltLd O/S - 24/Sep/11 with Paul Scott, Nick

Left campsite at midnight, back by 4am. a great adventure!
pastep - AltLd - 04/Sep/11 with Tibor, Woody, ebf

Never again!!!
PaulHermes - AltLd O/S - 02/Sep/11 with Tibor

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 20/Aug/11

and 9 other people...
hazeysunshine - 2nd dog - 20/Aug/11 with Sue H, Helen L, Fred, Alison

Hidden - AltLd - 26/Jul/11

Party climb in the wet!...
Krystalli - 2nd - 16/Jul/11 with Andy, Kieran, Emma, Aidan, Cat, Dan, Luke

Homes - AltLd - 16/Jul/11

Hidden - 2nd - 31/May/11

Awesome route. A little bit more difficult in parts. Fantastic route tho
Rhys_Alun - AltLd - 28/May/11 with John Stringer, Red Dragon

jstringer - 2nd O/S - 28/May/11 with Rhys Williams, Red Dragon

super fun
Sam Simpson - Lead O/S - 07/May/11 with Christian Turford

alias dave - Solo O/S - 07/May/11 with Sam.EB

What a laugh! Ronnie and Mark were in second group. Dry climb which was novel for route.
Neil Metcalfe101 - AltLd - 02/May/11 with Allan Mac

strange but wicked route!
Libby - 2nd - 04/Apr/11

Climb in the rain, very very wet but fun! A real battle, what a chimney! i ended up with no energy i couldn't even lift my arms!
xusa - 2nd O/S - 15/Mar/11 with Gareth Borthwick

wet and cold, did not summit, abseiled back down.
Andrew Lamb - 2nd dnf - 11/Mar/11

Wet 1st Pitch
rob k - AltLd O/S - 11/Mar/11

Lapepina - 2nd - 20/Feb/11

Soloed 4th pitch (scramble up to ledge with holly tree)
paulerussell - AltLd O/S - 20/Feb/11 with Isabel Garcia-Hermoza, Alex Angell, Jon, Maria Walker

Hidden - 2nd - 05/Feb/11

Pouring with water and did it in big boots. Would have been brilliant in the dry! Backed off...
Tightsgirl - Lead dnf - 05/Feb/11 with Josh Arnott, Jake Parker Bishop

jcooper8 - 2nd - 05/Feb/11

ian2707 - 2nd - 04/Feb/11

andy dunn - 2nd - 21/Jan/11 with J

first climb of the year, tripping wet and excellent fun!
uncontrollable - AltLd O/S - 01/Jan/11 with Alan T, Alan B

Led P2,4. Very wet before getting into the chimney. Perfect conditions ;).
Monkey_Alan - AltLd rpt - 01/Jan/11 with Alan Turner, Frodo Stickel

mataius - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

PAJames - 2011

PAJames - 2011

popov86 - AltLd - 12/Dec/10

Tom Seccombe - 2nd O/S - 17/Nov/10 with Matt Parkinson, tj murry, tim exley

Luke Brooks - 01/Oct/10

moelfras - Lead - 18/Sep/10

minus273degrees - 2nd dog - 11/Sep/10 with timboroo

Bloody mental trying to find the thing. The description in pravs snowdon guide was completely wrong. Had a look in another guide book and the description is different. Worth doing. Going to night solo it next time i'm at the hotel.
jayrenegade - Solo O/S - 04/Sep/10 with Luke, Prav

Hidden - Lead - Sep/10

Like nothing I've climbed before - I probably got the bum deal by going second and having to haul the rucksack(s) through the chimney - took forever. A few bit of it required not too much deep breathing and careful location of gear on the harness. Wished I'd had chalk and rockboots for the start, glad I didn't.
Martin Brierley - AltLd O/S - 29/Aug/10 with Rich Coupland

mol - AltLd - 21/Aug/10 with Luke, Sarah Smith, Jesse

splendid. despite having lost out on the true onsight. (to climb when heavily intoxicated.) i was pathetically sober on far too sunny a day. ill make sure im totally mashed next time to make up for it. promise.
lukas richardo - Solo - Aug/10 with prav, jamie

Awesome route. Best done with a full oversized rucksack...
ed edwards - AltLd O/S - Aug/10 with martin brierly, tim bateson, richard coupland

Ridiculous. In a good way. While on the climb we saw a man with an umbrella (who retreated, perhaps wisely) and a man with a plaster cast on his arm (who did not- respect due).
Harri777 - AltLd - 24/Jul/10 with Liz

Ridiculous - wet, shame that I did not have an umbrella. We cheated by wearing rock shoes - rather than nails but i do recommend tweed for friction.
Dizz - AltLd O/S - 24/Jul/10 with Harri777

Perfect day for that one! Pissing down, beers on the walk in and Rhod with his hand in a cast squirming up on Simons shoudlers :-) Brilliant fun!
Sardien - 2nd O/S - 24/Jul/10 with Thor Veen, Rhodri Morgan, Simon Moore

NB Pixel - AltLd O/S - 24/Jul/10 with Karl

Nigel Bond - Lead - 21/Jul/10 with Stuart Bond

Martin leading me and Tam into the darkness! The chimney was a hoot, we all did it differently. We did all 4 pitches then walked off. A true Welsh classic. Sunny start, rainy finish. Did it in big boots to make things more interesting.
climbfan - 2nd O/S - 14/Jul/10 with Martin Holland, Tam Risk

Cacyn - 2nd O/S - 14/Jul/10 with climbfan, Martin Holland

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Jun/10

Hidden - Lead rpt - 01/Jun/10

Hidden - Solo - Jun/10

Hidden - Solo - Jun/10

tedburt - AltLd O/S - 29/May/10 with Aaron Burdett

Tony Little - Solo rpt - 15/May/10

Superb! Soloed across the initial ledges then I led up the steep and polished little wall to the cave proper. This had Charles' name on it..... Loads of fun, grunting and gurning but fortunately nice and dry. Getting on the first chockstone was the hardest due to the slippery wall. Popping out in the sunshine is a delight and back to my lead for the top wall/scramble. Only downside? The descent. The guidebook gives no clues so we headed down North Gully. Don't. Its a nightmare abseil in green wet moss, trees, overhanging blocks and sheep poo. Almost took longer than the climb........
Babika - AltLd - 03/May/10 with Charles Leek, Kiwi Pete

Chimney pitch was awesome - only slightly wet, nothing difficult, just good old hard work to squirm your way up it!
andy dunn - AltLd rpt - 25/Apr/10 with Alan

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/10

Seconded Tom's pitch in approach shoes, then used climbing shoes for my pitch through the chimney. Was raining but awesome, headtorch would have been handy.
partz - AltLd O/S - 24/Mar/10 with Tom Dudley

In Walking boots, in the rain. Jamie took 1st and 2nd pitch. I took on the cave, spend a good 45+mins gettin over the 1st chockstone, very polished. Jamie took final pitch to the peg then gave me a decent waist belay for me to second. My Nike watch snapped off after the cave, just watched it roll down the edge, gutted.
Matthew Edwards - AltLd O/S - 24/Mar/10 with Jamie Greig

JamieGreig - AltLd O/S - 24/Mar/10 with Matthew Edwards

I lead 1st and 3rd pitch, Matt lead second (the chimney). Big Boots and very wet.
tdudley - AltLd RP - 24/Mar/10 with Matt Everett

My 21st birthday climb with Jill, Sam and Ben :)
Noodles - Solo O/S - 19/Mar/10

noodles birthday with jill and ben
sthame - Solo O/S - 19/Mar/10 with Jill Reinch, Martyn Middleton

Martyns 21st with wurzel, Sam and martyn
Jillybean - Solo - 19/Mar/10

Hidden - Solo - 19/Mar/10

Ows - 2nd - Mar/10

in the wet in me wellies!
dan-8990 - Solo O/S - 20/Feb/10

Hidden - AltLd - Jan/10

Jack Manfredi - TR - 2010

Done with with a party of 7, the majority of which being large in girth, all with hangovers, in the rain and hail. No Moonlight though.
Glyn Davidson - Lead O/S - 06/Dec/09 with Daz Haycock, Jason V, Rod Vandam, Lord Jones of Grange, Joss, Colin A, Ali

Hidden - 06/Dec/09

didnt fancy this at all .did the first pitch to the chimney entrance .loked a bit of a squeeze for me so bottled out this time.more akin to caving than climbing ,realised i'm not good in confined spaces . jason did well along with joss,rod daz,glyn ,ali and myself ,great locality though,horible day ,cold and wet but enjoyable all the same.Wont be beaten though "i'll be back" part of the cmc weekend...
colina - TR dnf - 06/Dec/09

The chimney is something to be experienced. As Glyn said, not for the large of girth. It mangled a couple of my cams good style.
JasonV - 2nd - 06/Dec/09

Hidden - AltLd - 06/Dec/09

Great fun in the wet. Bit of a squeeze in the chimney, had to take pack off and haul it.
chubbyclimber - 15/Nov/09 with Fred

Conditions bad driving rain at times and very slimy wet rock(in big boots)Climbed as part of AMC group of seven. Nice 3 metre air time for Sarah on leading the second pitch in front of us.(Ok though) Climbed as a three. Put the first two pitches together. Although the crux is not offically until the start of the chimmey by far the second pitch was the most problematic having to move left of the crack which take size 7 hex nicely. Chimmey fun with a good flakes for the final pitch. Credit to Dave for taking the first two pitches. One definately to do again but in good weather in rock boots
kiwi boy - 2nd O/S - 15/Nov/09 with Mark, Dave B

fishinwater - 2nd - Nov/09 with Bald eagle

unsuccessful search for a yellow sling!
dan-8990 - Solo - 19/Oct/09

the traditional way again!
dan-8990 - Solo - 17/Oct/09 with NM

the traditional way!
dan-8990 - Solo - 16/Oct/09 with NM

Nathanael-Mc - Solo O/S - 16/Oct/09 with Dan Commander

Very entertaining, bruised from head to toe!
Keith Jones - AltLd - 10/Oct/09 with Tecwyn

Alt leads with a very patient partner. Im glad he used his Head or I SWARE Id still be on that chock stone. All in all enjoyable, in a perverse way.
Clogwyn y Gwin - AltLd O/S - 10/Oct/09 with K J

Cave or climb ?? Fantastic abseil off the top !
Stoff - AltLd O/S - Oct/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Sep/09

Sgt. Vest - Solo O/S - 23/Sep/09

Nathanael-Mc - Solo - 17/Sep/09 with Dan Commander

Allan led the scramble up to the start which was fun in itself but I led the mad chimney route. Weird. Pitch out of the chimney at the top very easy but enjoyable no the less. metal spike at top.
Neil Metcalfe101 - Lead - 30/Aug/09 with Allan Mac

gareth scott borthwick - Solo O/S - 22/Aug/09

scorky345 - AltLd - 20/Aug/09 with Tim Oates, Owen Pearce

emlynroberts - AltLd - 16/Aug/09 with S A Jones

Tried this route out as a bad weather alternative and wore big boots to climb a route for the first ever time. Ran away screaming like a little girl due to the general slippyness of the first 2 pitches.
simozzer - AltLd dnf - 16/Aug/09 with Ian & Matt

Hjort - AltLd O/S - 16/Aug/09 with Si Creer

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 16/Aug/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/09

rocklobster - AltLd - 16/Aug/09 with Simon and Ian

BennoC - AltLd O/S - 02/Aug/09 with Stace

staceated - AltLd O/S - 02/Aug/09 with ben

Hidden - Solo - 18/Jul/09

simon geering - 2nd - 09/Jul/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/09

tomtherockboy - 04/Jul/09

Hidden - Jul/09

Hidden - 2nd - 07/Jun/09

Done in the poring rain, but was amazing, and very funny
Bennykr - AltLd O/S - 06/Jun/09 with Dad

reinschgm - AltLd O/S - 06/Jun/09 with Ben

Jillybean - AltLd O/S - 06/Jun/09 with Fiona

lukewilliams - 06/Jun/09

First multipitch climb, turned out to be more of a caving expedition!
sarah hawker - 2nd O/S - 31/May/09 with Rachael Harrison, Dave SB

davesb - Lead - 31/May/09 with Sarah Hawker

frume - Lead O/S - 30/May/09 with Ian

ndugu - 2nd O/S - 22/May/09 with Antony (SA)

allanfarrell - Lead O/S - 22/May/09 with Emma Turnbull

Desparate: give me a proper cave any day!
peterdevlin - 2nd dog - 18/May/09 with Bryn Williams

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/Apr/09

Good fun and brilliant views from the top.
mike_lumby - TR - Apr/09

fizzychewitt - Lead - 22/Mar/09 with Phil

JonnySchofield - 2nd O/S - 07/Mar/09

A Classic which is hairy in the dark and high winds.
sqirt - 2nd - 01/Feb/09 with Hiliary Thaker

finally! 3 attempts at this climb. frist time we tried in the dark, but my head torch ran out of batteries on the walk in. Second time it was day, but very wet... we got badly lost and didn't even encounter the chimney. finally finished the route today, was light for the first half then dark for the rest!
adam06 - AltLd - 24/Jan/09 with mike weaver, Hilary Theaker and david rider

fun route, but crux is pretty exhausting! finished route in the dark
hils theaker - Lead - 24/Jan/09 with squrt, adam +mike

Mikelo - AltLd - 24/Jan/09 with adam

In pouring rain, big boots and about as much friction as a waterslide - the best place to be in the conditions :)
danleyden - Lead - 22/Nov/08 with Chris Townsend

Instruction in multipitch.
jonnie3430 - Lead O/S - 09/Nov/08 with Tom and Craig

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 09/Nov/08

best diff I've ever done!
lukehunt - Lead - 25/Oct/08 with Jon Stokes

Hidden - Solo O/S - 25/Oct/08

in the pissing rain. brilliant fun.
lukea - Lead O/S - 25/Oct/08 with felix

treeminkies - 25/Oct/08 with carole and alan

took a group of 35 through on a cold and starry night with candles for light
Weedyskid - Solo rpt - Oct/08

Hidden - 2nd - 28/Aug/08

alwyn101 - 2nd - 22/Aug/08 with Dylan CMC

Hidden - Lead - 03/Aug/08

Did the recommended way - in a large group whilst raining, rock was very slippery!
Julian Prieto - AltLd O/S - 19/Jul/08

tavarua - 2nd dog - 19/Jul/08 with wmc

Monkey_Alan - 2nd dog - 19/Jul/08 with Wessex MC

jsw1 - 2nd - 28/Jun/08 with Jo Medcalf, Sarah Medcalf, Christian Lenehan, David Medcalf, Cathy Woodhead

'interesting'! I still have the bruises from squirming up the chimney...
jom - 2nd O/S - 28/Jun/08 with the Medcalf Clan plus 2

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Jun/08

thompson1000 - Solo - 22/Jun/08

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 01/Jun/08

Mike Goldthorp - Solo O/S - 30/May/08 with Sam Jones, Kieran King, Matt Burdican, Jill Reinsch, Chris Shipway

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Apr/08

knicos - 2nd - 04/Apr/08

Hidden - AltLd - 21/Mar/08

MoWalker3 - AltLd - 21/Mar/08

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 08/Mar/08

Karlos - Lead - 08/Mar/08

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 2008

did it in the rain, wicked.
jade Edwards Leaney - Lead O/S - 2008

alwyn101 - AltLd O/S - 14/Sep/07 with Joey Bethesda

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/07

featuresforfeet - Solo - 28/Jun/07 with SecretSquirrel

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 07/Jun/07

Amazing route - thrutched up the crux - didn't really get it - used up about 75% of my energy!
mick1jones - 2nd dog - 27/May/07 with Dave Wilkinson

Hidden - Lead - 27/May/07

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 13/May/07

A Crook - AltLd O/S - 06/May/07 with Dave Garry, Neil Griffiths

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 21/Apr/07

keith robo - AltLd O/S - 21/Apr/07 with James Gerrie/Gareth Pierce

tumbling wizard - Lead - Apr/07

Took 1st leading fall onto nut whilst leading the 1st pitch in the wet in boots.
Glyn - 18/Mar/07 with Perry Batteman

mortimea - 2nd - 28/Jan/07 with Roger Jackson, Pete Sanderson

danleyden - 2nd O/S - Jan/07 with Jenny James

Jennyjames - Lead - Jan/07 with Dan

fran04 - Solo - 2007

Hidden - 2nd - 2007

Also Graham
Keith Jones - Lead - 21/Nov/06 with ali

Dan Shirley - AltLd O/S - 12/Oct/06

Hidden - Solo - 01/Oct/06

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 17/Sep/06

Renegade_Pony - 2nd - 13/Jul/06 with Owen Barnicott, Ewan Brown

benchwarmer - Jul/06 with Owen Barnicott, Justin Hughes

victim of mathematics - AltLd O/S - 27/May/06 with crossdressingrodney

crossdressingrodney - AltLd O/S - 27/May/06 with victim of mathematics

In the rain with a group as is traditional
TRNovice - 30/Dec/05 with cider nut, featuresforfeet, Jenn

Jenn - 30/Dec/05 with cider nut, featuresforfeet, TRNovice

James Meredith - AltLd O/S - Nov/05 with Simon

I have put "clean onsight" but nothing about this route should have the word "clean" associated with it! Still, it's a magnificent experience in a storm.
chrishedgehog - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/05 with Clare Wilkie

Total fun climb-couldn't stop laughing, but Gerry wasn't amused.
Ann S - Sep/05 with Bill Harrision/Gerry Ryan/Dave Bartholomew

A great day out, preceeding a great night out, making the best of the most minging but classic N Wales weather!
mattyork2 - AltLd - 30/Jul/05 with josh, harry, nick and an aussie

bobette - 2nd - 03/May/05

Very odd route! More like caving. Very wet again.
KeithW - AltLd - 17/Apr/05 with Mike Nuttall

fantastic route!!! perfect for a wet day!!!
2RoyalAnglian - Apr/05 with plas y brenin r/c course

several leads
Climb Rox - Lead - 2005

Keith Jones - 2nd - Dec/04 with David

I led the short 2nd pitch, Rob led the rest
Simon Caldwell - AltLd O/S - 23/Oct/04 with Rob, Liz and Jenny

simon did the hard part (at the beginning pitch 2) I ran the rest into 1 pitch !!!!
lithos - AltLd O/S - 23/Oct/04

Hidden - AltLd - Sep/04

Massed ascent by Innominata MC in the wet
Howard J - 2nd - 26/Jun/04

samwelli - AltLd O/S - 05/Apr/04 with Steve Hobbs

broc - AltLd O/S - 23/Nov/03 with Mike

Hidden - Lead - Sep/03

Hidden - 2nd - 15/Aug/03

Ian JL - Lead O/S - Jun/02

Alastair Hudson - Lead O/S - 19/May/02 with Nik Weston, Nic Jones

Hidden - Solo rpt - 27/Aug/00

Hidden - Solo - 22/Apr/00

leonjones - 2nd - 2000 with Pete Miller

kjbix - Solo - 2000 with Richard Beech

Hidden - Lead - 09/Oct/98

Good fun on a wet and drizzly day.
iskra2000 - AltLd - 04/May/98 with Danuska Rycerz

Hidden - AltLd - 16/Apr/98

Nice tunnel to climb in. I remember a large ledge which I had a bit of trouble mantleshelving about halfway up.
dionhughes - Solo O/S - 1998 with Bob Bertalot

zero six - Lead - 1998

Did with Dave and Andy the day after my summer ML course at plas y brenin
Simonfarfaraway - AltLd - 1998

DavidR - Solo O/S - 27/Apr/97 with John Marston and Andy Owen

Hidden - AltLd - 19/Apr/97

Callum Anderson - Sep/96

gd303uk - Solo O/S - Jul/96 with John Rogers

Hidden - Solo O/S - 01/Apr/96

What a laugh!
Ian Archer - AltLd O/S - 10/Sep/95 with CDW

chris d williams - Solo - 10/Sep/95 with Ian Archer

five - AltLd O/S - Feb/95

My first proper climb!
ZA - 1995 with family

bullybones - 1995

Hidden - AltLd - 25/Dec/94

teaching multipitch
Tom Vivian - Lead - 20/Nov/94

Hidden - TR - 03/Aug/94

Hidden - Lead - 15/Jun/94

group of 8
Tom Vivian - Lead - 16/Feb/94

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/93

moving roped together
RichardP - 09/Jun/91

Hidden - Lead - 03/Jun/91

with Newport MC
James Moyle - 2nd - 1991

Nick Biven - 1990

Nick Biven - 1990

nigehughes - AltLd - Apr/89 with Mark Troy

nigehughes - Lead - Jan/89 with Chris Hewitt

Hidden - Lead - 12/Dec/87

Hidden - Lead - 16/Sep/87

Mostly soloed, led through route pitch. Wasn't dark but might as well have been given the weather.
Iain Thow - Lead - 06/Sep/87 with Bob Lister, Steve Ball

nigehughes - Lead - May/87 with Chris Hewitt, Ted Wellstood

Hidden - Lead - 26/Feb/87

and john carpenter, started around 11pm and finished at dawn
michael burrows - 2nd O/S - 22/Jun/85 with helen swygart

babymoac - 04/Nov/84 with MTW & Paul R

Hidden - 1982

mikej - Lead - 17/Jan/81 with Andy Auty, Brian Norris, Geoff Williams

I was 12 - dad let me lead the main Chimney pitch... Mum did it with us.
Backinthegame - AltLd - Jul/80 with Dad

RichardMc - Lead - 30/Mar/80 with Paul Richards, John Antill

Ghastly Rubberfeet - AltLd - 1980

RichardMc - Solo - 28/Oct/79 with Patrick Radford, Betty Seifert

rogerskews - AltLd - 29/Apr/79 with John Blackburn

mikej - AltLd - 25/Mar/78 with Mike Mason

George Elliott - AltLd O/S - 21/Mar/76

Bolt Phobia - AltLd - 14/Feb/76

RichardMc - Solo O/S - 05/Oct/75 with Betty Seifert

Mark Kemball - Solo - 24/Aug/75

leland stamper - Lead O/S - Mar/75

Mass ascent with a KMC group on a very wet day.
Sean Kelly - Oct/74

Hidden - 2nd - Sep/74

mikej - AltLd - 19/Jul/74 with Mike Byles

johnny20whales - 2nd - 01/Jul/74

Massed ascent for Dave Ball's 21st
Howard J - 2nd - 1974 with Reading University MC

Ian Jones - AltLd O/S - 1973 with Bill Dean

JonG - 1970

tapley - 2nd - 07/Apr/69 with Dave Hearnshaw

Hidden - Lead - 27/May/67

eroica64 - 2nd - 1965 with Keith Pritchard

eroica64 - Solo - 1965

For the first of manytimes June 1993 with M. Harris Jim Geirge and ANOther
jcw - 26/Nov/64

uphillnow - Lead - 1963 with John Sargeant

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Robaduck, James A.S Read, SenzuBean, summerse, BoHeMlo, mzk, vix, Stopsy, humptydumpty, db79, dsgarner, teh_mark, yossarian714, maddy92, charlielow, damob123, splat2million, Moonwolf, Matadoors, Will Falder, simonscubadiver, JamesLloyd, CashaJones, benjamina bourbon biscuit, belaleaderdave, syv_k, ladymuck, monkeymark, Tom Hecht, vincentvega, gary.barr, dansmonkeytroubles, hcooper, mattrm, tdudley, davidhw, AHW27, speekingleesh, KatieLowe, Neil Mackenzie

Total votes cast 133
hard HVD0 of 65
HVD0 of 65
easy HVD0 of 65
hard VD0 of 65
VD0 of 65
easy VD0 of 65
hard HD7 of 65
HD5 of 65
easy HD41 of 65
hard D5 of 65
D5 of 65
easy D2 of 65
3 Stars54 of 68
2 Stars10 of 68
1 Star0 of 68
0 Stars0 of 68
Bag of .....4 of 68
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat
Clean RP