Derbyshire > Wildcat Crags (aka Wild Cat) >
 
Great Cleft** E1 5c

Adjacent Climbs
<< Clash of Arms
 
Lynx >>
38m, 2 pitches. The long crack system is a strenuous, slippery and awkward tussle, yet it is a kind of classic despite all of this. 1) 4c, 16m. Start left of a block and climb a thin crack to a groove then a small stance on the left. 2) 5c, 28m. Step right and do battle with the crack through a bevy of bulges. Sustained and strenuous though with good gear and the occasional solid jam to allow you to catch your breath. © ROCKFAX
FA. Doug Scott, Steve Read (3 pts) 1963. FFA. Unknown 1970s
Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 49 logbooks, and on 3 wishlists.

Hol led pitch 1; I led pitch 2.
DavidR - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/14 with Holly Adamthwaite

Nice route e2 in peak limstone :-) as one pich
Andy Peak 1 - Lead O/S - 02/Jul/14 with Rob stokes

dr_botnik - 2nd dog - 02/Jul/14 with Andy

greenclimb - Lead - 22/Jun/14 with Sarah

Led P2
Jim Slater - AltLd O/S - 22/Jun/14 with Pete

apw - 2nd - 22/Jun/14 with Jim Slater

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 14/May/14

Previously followed
bigdrew - Lead rpt - 14/May/14 with Eve

Mike Hegarty - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/13 with Lee

Nicos - Lead O/S - 02/Feb/13 with rich mansfield

Aided up jamming crack.
Palindrome - 2nd - Jul/12

led pitch 2, tough but excellent.
Graeme Hammond - AltLd O/S - 01/Apr/12 with Chris Hindley

Started as for Tut's Anomalous (as I had done the start of this route by mistake last year when I did Tut's), and finished as in Clash of Arms at the top after the crux crack. Superb! Best route in Wildcat! I felt hard for the grade, but still E1. Anna said it was the hardest E1 she had ever climbed.
masa-alpin - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/11 with Anni, Lee P

As a single pitch, not sure why you would do it any other way. It felt hard for the grade though - not sure if that was just because of the heat?
Brian Rodgers - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/11 with Simon Pape

Hidden - 2nd - 02/Jun/11

Chriswallis2 - Lead O/S - 29/May/11 with Pete

Might of got it clean but for a stuck nut.
petellis - 2nd dog - 29/May/11 with Jenny Clarke, Rock and Dole

Dave Bond - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/11 with Tim Banton

Hidden - 26/Apr/11

Better than Tut's overall but still a bit messy. The middle bulging crack felt tenuous on the finger and hand jams but determination and committment won through with solid gear for encouragement
Cragrat Rich - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/10

djones66 - 2010

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 13/Apr/09

Hidden - Lead - 30/Mar/09

Really desparate for the likes of me. Oh well. T'was fun though.
mattyork2 - Lead O/S - 27/Oct/08 with Jenny Clarke

DannyK - AltLd O/S - 26/Jul/08 with pep

Oceanic - Aug/07

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/Jun/06

ChrisJD - Lead - 17/Jun/06 with Clare

Boy - 2006

nickcanute - 2000

EagerAndy - 2000

Hidden - 2nd - 07/Nov/98

nice, fairly shortlived difficulties; Mark did pitch 1, I did 2nd
nickdonohue - AltLd - 14/Aug/98 with Mark McCarthy

phardman - 2nd - 10/Mar/96 with Bill McKee

Roget - Lead O/S - 04/Dec/93 with jon

Hidden - Lead - 10/Apr/92

ChrisJD - AltLd - 24/Aug/91 with Alex

Hidden - Lead - 30/Mar/88

malc - AltLd dog - 25/Apr/87 with T Higgins

Hidden - 2nd - 08/Oct/86

shark - 2nd - 26/Jun/86 with Seb Grieve

Hidden - 1986

craig d - 1986

andy gittins - 1985

2,L.
charlesmfrench - AltLd O/S - 06/Jul/83

Andy Stephenson - 2nd - 22/Jun/83

Mark Kemball - Lead - 12/Nov/78 with Sarah Bridge

Free ascent. The 1970 guidebook that we were using (and that I still have in 2011) described two nuts for aid in second pitch. Same day as a free ascent of Tut's Anomalous.
Falko - Lead O/S - 26/Jan/75 with Andy S

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Michael Hood, Hidden, middle aged slob

Voting
Total votes cast 49
hard E20 of 18
E20 of 18
easy E211 of 18
hard E14 of 18
E13 of 18
easy E10 of 18
hard HVS0 of 18
HVS0 of 18
easy HVS0 of 18
hard 6a0 of 15
6a0 of 15
easy 6a0 of 15
hard 5c1 of 15
5c13 of 15
easy 5c0 of 15
hard 5b1 of 15
5b0 of 15
easy 5b0 of 15
3 Stars3 of 16
2 Stars12 of 16
1 Star1 of 16
0 Stars0 of 16
Bag of .....0 of 16
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent

Lead19 of 49 (38.8%)
Followed11 of 49 (22.4%)
Alt Leads10 of 49 (20.4%)
Unknown9 of 49 (18.4%)

'Climbed'25 of 49 (51.0%)
clean O/S20 of 49 (40.8%)
clean rpt1 of 49 (2.0%)
dogged3 of 49 (6.1%)