Derbyshire > Wildcat Crags (aka Wild Cat) >
Great Cleft** E1 5c

Adjacent Climbs
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38m, 2 pitches. The long crack system is a strenuous, slippery and awkward tussle, yet it is a kind of classic despite all of this. 1) 4c, 16m. Start left of a block and climb a thin crack to a groove then a small stance on the left. 2) 5c, 28m. Step right and do battle with the crack through a bevy of bulges. Sustained and strenuous though with good gear and the occasional solid jam to allow you to catch your breath. © ROCKFAX
FA. Doug Scott, Steve Read (3 pts) 1963. FFA. Unknown 1970s
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This climb is in 41 logbooks, and on 3 wishlists.

Mike Hegarty - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/13 with Lee

Nicos - Lead O/S - 02/Feb/13 with rich mansfield

Aided up jamming crack.
Palindrome - 2nd - Jul/12

led pitch 2, tough but excellent.
Graeme Hammond - AltLd O/S - 01/Apr/12 with Chris Hindley

Started as for Tut's Anomalous (as I had done the start of this route by mistake last year when I did Tut's), and finished as in Clash of Arms at the top after the crux crack. Superb! Best route in Wildcat! I felt hard for the grade, but still E1. Anna said it was the hardest E1 she had ever climbed.
masa-alpin - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/11 with Anni, Lee P

As a single pitch, not sure why you would do it any other way. It felt hard for the grade though - not sure if that was just because of the heat?
Brian Rodgers - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/11 with Simon Pape

Hidden - 2nd - 02/Jun/11

Chriswallis2 - Lead O/S - 29/May/11 with Pete

Might of got it clean but for a stuck nut.
petellis - 2nd dog - 29/May/11 with Jenny Clarke, Rock and Dole

Dave Bond - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/11 with Tim Banton

Hidden - 26/Apr/11

Better than Tut's overall but still a bit messy. The middle bulging crack felt tenuous on the finger and hand jams but determination and committment won through with solid gear for encouragement
Cragrat Rich - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/10

djones66 - 2010

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 13/Apr/09

Hidden - Lead - 30/Mar/09

Really desparate for the likes of me. Oh well. T'was fun though.
mattyork2 - Lead O/S - 27/Oct/08 with Jenny Clarke

DannyK - AltLd O/S - 26/Jul/08 with pep

Oceanic - Aug/07

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/Jun/06

ChrisJD - Lead - 17/Jun/06 with Clare

Boy - 2006

nickcanute - 2000

EagerAndy - 2000

Hidden - 2nd - 07/Nov/98

nice, fairly shortlived difficulties; Mark did pitch 1, I did 2nd
nickdonohue - AltLd - 14/Aug/98 with Mark McCarthy

phardman - 2nd - 10/Mar/96 with Bill McKee

Roget - Lead O/S - 04/Dec/93 with jon

Hidden - Lead - 10/Apr/92

ChrisJD - AltLd - 24/Aug/91 with Alex

Hidden - Lead - 30/Mar/88

malc - AltLd dog - 25/Apr/87 with T Higgins

Hidden - 2nd - 08/Oct/86

shark - 2nd - 26/Jun/86 with Seb Grieve

Hidden - 1986

craig d - 1986

andy gittins - 1985

charlesmfrench - AltLd O/S - 06/Jul/83

Andy Stephenson - 2nd - 22/Jun/83

Mark Kemball - Lead - 12/Nov/78 with Sarah Bridge

Free ascent. The 1970 guidebook that we were using (and that I still have in 2011) described two nuts for aid in second pitch. Same day as a free ascent of Tut's Anomalous.
Falko - Lead O/S - 26/Jan/75 with Andy S

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Michael Hood, Hidden, middle aged slob

Total votes cast 43
hard E20 of 16
E20 of 16
easy E210 of 16
hard E13 of 16
E13 of 16
easy E10 of 16
hard HVS0 of 16
HVS0 of 16
easy HVS0 of 16
hard 6a0 of 13
6a0 of 13
easy 6a0 of 13
hard 5c1 of 13
5c11 of 13
easy 5c0 of 13
hard 5b1 of 13
5b0 of 13
easy 5b0 of 13
3 Stars3 of 14
2 Stars10 of 14
1 Star1 of 14
0 Stars0 of 14
Bag of .....0 of 14
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Style of ascent

Lead16 of 41 (39.0%)
Followed8 of 41 (19.5%)
Alt Leads8 of 41 (19.5%)
Unknown9 of 41 (22.0%)

'Climbed'23 of 41 (56.1%)
clean O/S16 of 41 (39.0%)
dogged2 of 41 (4.9%)