Derbyshire > Wildcat Crags (aka Wild Cat) >
 
Great Cleft** E1 5c

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38m, 2 pitches. The long crack system is a strenuous, slippery and awkward tussle, yet it is a kind of classic despite all of this. 1) 4c, 16m. Start left of a block and climb a thin crack to a groove then a small stance on the left. 2) 5c, 28m. Step right and do battle with the crack through a bevy of bulges. Sustained and strenuous though with good gear and the occasional solid jam to allow you to catch your breath. © ROCKFAX
FA. Doug Scott, Steve Read (3 pts) 1963. FFA. Unknown 1970s

Ticklists: World Graded List.

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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 55 logbooks, and on 3 wishlists.

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/14

Hoyes - AltLd dog - 31/Aug/14 with Jonathan H

Had a bit of a mare on this.
Jonathan Hall - AltLd - 31/Aug/14 with Rachel Batt, James Hoyes

Hol led pitch 1; I led pitch 2.
DavidR - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/14 with Holly Adamthwaite

Nice route e2 in peak limstone :-) as one pich
Andy Peak 1 - Lead O/S - 02/Jul/14 with Rob stokes

dr_botnik - 2nd dog - 02/Jul/14 with Andy

Hidden - Lead - 02/Jul/14

greenclimb - Lead - 22/Jun/14 with Sarah

Led P2
Jim Slater - AltLd O/S - 22/Jun/14 with Pete

apw - 2nd - 22/Jun/14 with Jim Slater

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 14/May/14

Previously followed
bigdrew - Lead rpt - 14/May/14 with Eve

Mike Hegarty - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/13 with Lee

Nicos - Lead O/S - 02/Feb/13 with rich mansfield

Aided up jamming crack.
Palindrome - 2nd - Jul/12

led pitch 2, tough but excellent.
Graeme Hammond - AltLd O/S - 01/Apr/12 with Chris Hindley

Started as for Tut's Anomalous (as I had done the start of this route by mistake last year when I did Tut's), and finished as in Clash of Arms at the top after the crux crack. Superb! Best route in Wildcat! I felt hard for the grade, but still E1. Anna said it was the hardest E1 she had ever climbed.
masa-alpin - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/11 with Anni, Lee P

As a single pitch, not sure why you would do it any other way. It felt hard for the grade though - not sure if that was just because of the heat?
Brian Rodgers - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/11 with Simon Pape

Hidden - 2nd - 02/Jun/11

Chriswallis2 - Lead O/S - 29/May/11 with Pete

Might of got it clean but for a stuck nut.
petellis - 2nd dog - 29/May/11 with Jenny Clarke, Rock and Dole

Dave Bond - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/11 with Tim Banton

Hidden - 26/Apr/11

Better than Tut's overall but still a bit messy. The middle bulging crack felt tenuous on the finger and hand jams but determination and committment won through with solid gear for encouragement
Cragrat Rich - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/10

djones66 - 2010

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 13/Apr/09

Hidden - Lead - 30/Mar/09

Really desparate for the likes of me. Oh well. T'was fun though.
mattyork2 - Lead O/S - 27/Oct/08 with Jenny Clarke

DannyK - AltLd O/S - 26/Jul/08 with pep

Oceanic - Aug/07

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/Jun/06

ChrisJD - Lead - 17/Jun/06 with Clare

Boy - 2006

nickcanute - 2000

EagerAndy - 2000

Hidden - 2nd - 07/Nov/98

nice, fairly shortlived difficulties; Mark did pitch 1, I did 2nd
nickdonohue - AltLd - 14/Aug/98 with Mark McCarthy

phardman - 2nd - 10/Mar/96 with Bill McKee

3 RESTS
crater - 2nd dog - 28/Aug/95

Roget - Lead O/S - 04/Dec/93 with jon

Hidden - Lead - 10/Apr/92

ChrisJD - AltLd - 24/Aug/91 with Alex

Hidden - Lead - 30/Mar/88

malc - AltLd dog - 25/Apr/87 with T Higgins

Hidden - 2nd - 08/Oct/86

shark - 2nd - 26/Jun/86 with Seb Grieve

Hidden - 1986

craig d - 1986

andy gittins - 1985

2,L.
charlesmfrench - AltLd O/S - 06/Jul/83

Andy Stephenson - 2nd - 22/Jun/83

tapley - Lead - 11/Aug/81 with Chris Seymour

Mark Kemball - Lead - 12/Nov/78 with Sarah Bridge

Free ascent. The 1970 guidebook that we were using (and that I still have in 2011) described two nuts for aid in second pitch. Same day as a free ascent of Tut's Anomalous.
Falko - Lead O/S - 26/Jan/75 with Andy S

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Michael Hood, Hidden, middle aged slob

Voting
Total votes cast 52
hard E20 of 19
E21 of 19
easy E211 of 19
hard E14 of 19
E13 of 19
easy E10 of 19
hard HVS0 of 19
HVS0 of 19
easy HVS0 of 19
hard 6a0 of 16
6a0 of 16
easy 6a0 of 16
hard 5c1 of 16
5c13 of 16
easy 5c1 of 16
hard 5b1 of 16
5b0 of 16
easy 5b0 of 16
3 Stars3 of 17
2 Stars13 of 17
1 Star1 of 17
0 Stars0 of 17
Bag of .....0 of 17
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Style of ascent

Lead22 of 55 (40.0%)
Followed12 of 55 (21.8%)
Alt Leads12 of 55 (21.8%)
Unknown9 of 55 (16.4%)

'Climbed'28 of 55 (50.9%)
clean O/S21 of 55 (38.2%)
clean rpt1 of 55 (1.8%)
dogged5 of 55 (9.1%)