Rockfax Description
A great route that has the crux where it should be... at the top! Follow the ramp-line leftwards for about 25m to a resting ledge just right of a junction with Quasar. Attack the steep groove on the left with gusto (crux) to gain the ledge and belay. © Rockfax

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List.

Jack93 16/Oct Lead O/S

Didn't have a great time on this, got mega rope drag by the end and placed some panic gear just to make everything worse!

Pimwuh 30/Sep 2nd
Hidden 27/Sep 2nd rpt
Hidden 10/Sep Lead O/S
Steve Crowe 10/Sep 2nd O/S
with KM
Hidden 31/Aug Lead O/S
Matadoors 31/Aug 2nd
cymjt 18/Aug 2nd O/S
with David K
Hidden 18/Aug Lead dog
David Kay 18/Aug Lead O/S

Excellent! Faffed around with gear a lot though and accidentally went a little too far left. The final crack and groove seemed more fierce than they actually were.

Hidden 16/Aug Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Aug 2nd
Hidden 12/Aug Lead rpt
PaulTanton 08/Aug 2nd rpt
with Kevin Stephens
spalice 07/Aug 2nd O/S
with danny griffith
James Oakes 25/Jul Lead O/S
Fragmod 25/Jul 2nd
puppythedog 11/Jul Lead O/S

First lead of the day. I had intended to do Wind but the wet crack led to me continuing up Kaisergebirge Wall. Nice climb, quite easy to the ledge. I took a few minutes puzzling over whether to go up left into the groove or right. Once Committed to the move it all went smoothly. On CC big Weekend meet.

with David Nicol
Matthew Ferrier 15/Jun 2nd
Teappleby 15/Jun Lead
duncandarnell 09/Jun Lead β
Hardcore Pat 08/Jun Lead O/S
with Dr Julie
scottcoates ?/Jun Lead
with Martyn
Alasdair88 23/May 2nd O/S
with Coel
Hidden 13/May 2nd rpt
wynaptomos 13/May 2nd rpt
Davesmith1981 05/May Lead
alexjz 01/May Lead O/S
with Tom Nichols
Mike505 01/May 2nd O/S
with Neil
JamesWilliams 23/Apr Lead O/S

Easy all the way to the last groove which is slightly tricky climbed it from the right hand side. The easiest of the grochan HVS's I've done

useful 22/Apr 2nd
JoeCoxson 15/Apr 2nd O/S

Nice move getting into the last groove.

lukegorman 15/Apr Lead O/S
sgl 10/Apr 2nd rpt
with Phil, Bart
Hidden 10/Apr Lead O/S
wynaptomos 09/Apr Lead rpt
jezb1 08/Apr 2nd


Hidden 08/Apr Lead
Martin Haworth 06/Apr Lead O/S
Brannock 06/Apr Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Apr 2nd
wi11 05/Apr Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2015 -
spidermonkey09 23/Nov/14 Lead O/S

Beautiful climb. 5a only though.

with Jake Atkinson
Ade7 29/Sep/14 2nd dog
with Alan
Dibdawg 29/Sep/14 Lead rpt
Jim Slater 28/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Kev Glossop
Hidden 28/Sep/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 17/Sep/14 -
sgl 17/Sep/14 Lead
with will
zcsharp 14/Sep/14 Lead O/S
abtibbs 14/Sep/14 2nd O/S
with Jamie Roberts
Melonfly 08/Aug/14 2nd
with Caleb
Kemics 08/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Bit of whimpy ledge shuffling before committing to crux. Pretty stiff move.

with Mel
Hidden 27/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Rachel Slater 26/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Borg
Lessworkmoreclimbing 17/Jul/14 -
with Kev
Hidden 17/Jul/14 2nd
Dizz 17/Jul/14 2nd O/S
with David
NickJH 17/Jul/14 Lead rpt
with M Reed
Hidden 12/Jul/14 Lead
Hidden 01/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Ray Sparks 26/Jun/14 2nd
with joe
Hidden 15/Jun/14 2nd O/S
ColinD 15/Jun/14 2nd
with Peter Sterling
Hidden 13/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Jun/14 Lead
khalidq 03/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Dan Vaj 03/Jun/14 2nd O/S
with Khalid
Hidden 17/May/14 2nd
fizzychewitt 14/May/14 2nd
with Jayne
Hidden 14/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/May/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 03/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/14 -
jezb1 21/Apr/14 2nd

Easier crux than I remember but good route.

Double Knee Bar 14/Apr/14 2nd O/S
with Rafe
UncleMephisto 14/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Nice route, protection just about adequate throughout but good for the crux

Chris Manasseh 15/Mar/14 2nd
with Mike Buddle
Hidden ??/2014 -
highclimber ??/2014 Lead O/S

Nice route. Easier than the guidebook suggests. Top end 5a possibly - not 5b.

with Jez
Si ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
rbharries ??/2014 Lead
with denry, owain williams
Allanfairfechan ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
thegoatstroker 24/Sep/13 AltLd
Sardien 22/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Thought the crux was a bit unprotected, and therefor unnerving above the big ledge

with Megan Beaumont
Hidden 23/Aug/13 2nd O/S
jezb1 23/Aug/13 Lead

Really good route. Lot's of gear all the way, thought the crux was 5b, but well protected and short lived.

freemanTom 23/Aug/13 Lead
with Roger Lord
Curly Rich 23/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with GMC Tris
metal arms 23/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Aug/13 2nd
Pete_Frost 03/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Nice climb. Began the top groove on its left hand side - felt much easier than going direct.

Hidden 03/Aug/13 Lead
Thunderthighsontheloose 03/Aug/13 2nd O/S
CM1992 03/Aug/13 2nd

Good route. Final groove a little interesting, faffed around for a bit but got it done in the end

dan gibson 26/Jul/13 Lead rpt
with helen gibson
Hidden 05/Jul/13 Lead O/S
gripped01 30/Jun/13 AltLd
with Dave Tait
Hidden 18/Jun/13 2nd O/S
Julesthe1st 09/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Guy
Hidden 09/Jun/13 Lead O/S
dicky79 01/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Leon
Lenny 01/Jun/13 2nd O/S
with Iain
Hidden 20/May/13 Lead O/S
francesanncavanagh 20/May/13 2nd
with Craig Fussy Pants Letham
Dan724 02/May/13 AltLd O/S

Really enjoy this one, quality rock in a great position.

with Ollie Halford, Kyle Williamson
greenclimb ?/May/13 Lead O/S
with Rachel
Hidden ??/2013 Lead O/S
Alex.M-M. 22/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with chris ripper
petegruf 08/Sep/12 Lead rpt
with Karl
Lloyders 07/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Paddy
Hidden 05/Sep/12 Lead dog
Hidden 05/Sep/12 2nd
PaulTanton 02/Sep/12 Lead β

Done it before, lots of times

with Anita Grey
Hidden 28/Aug/12 AltLd
Cardi 21/Aug/12 2nd O/S
with Tom R
Jen Crook 20/Aug/12 2nd
guy757 14/Aug/12 -
with Vic
Hidden 11/Aug/12 Lead
ldadams ?/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/12 Lead
greglad 22/Jul/12 Lead
Hidden 22/Jul/12 Lead rpt
chriscarroll 18/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Sever up to the short but good 5b crux...very pleasant

with Owain
owain86 17/Jul/12 2nd O/S
with Chris
Hannes B 20/Jun/12 2nd
with Luke
martrin 18/Jun/12 Lead
with Sarah Kekus
Hidden 02/Jun/12 2nd rpt
kyaizawa 02/Jun/12 Lead O/S
lcullum7 02/Jun/12 2nd RP

Foot slipped off after passing crux in the top crack. Annoyed to not do it clean

Hidden ?/Jun/12 2nd
Hidden 27/May/12 2nd rpt
John Nuttall 27/May/12 Lead
with Mark
Johnywilks 06/May/12 Lead O/S
georgeevans88 05/May/12 Lead O/S
with James N
jamesn89 05/May/12 2nd dnf
Hidden 04/May/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Mar/12 Lead
Stone Muppet 27/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Mar/12 2nd
hrgcb 25/Mar/12 Lead
with John Chattaway
Hidden 22/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Feb/12 Lead
Hidden 25/Feb/12 2nd
cballard ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Owen_P ??/2012 -
Noodles 04/Oct/11 2nd
with Andy Mcque
benchwarmer 01/Oct/11 Lead O/S
flatland_warrior 01/Sep/11 2nd O/S
SteveJCox 01/Sep/11 2nd
Tom Cox 01/Sep/11 Lead O/S
psychomansam ?/Aug/11 TR
Sophie Nunn 24/Jul/11 2nd rpt
with Pete S
wynaptomos 12/Jul/11 Lead O/S
AlexD 03/Jul/11 2nd
McGuinness 29/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Gareth, Mills
HIGHTOWER 09/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Helen
suffolknick 30/Apr/11 2nd
with clams
al123 27/Apr/11 Lead O/S


with terry
Ceridwen 19/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Uber Mike
Sophie Nunn 10/Apr/11 2nd O/S
with Floris
MikeLeeds 10/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
with John McMahon
clams ?/Apr/11 Lead
with NB
crag_monster ?/Apr/11 Lead
with Dave Brown
Hidden 27/Mar/11 2nd O/S
Rory Shaw 23/Mar/11 Lead rpt

Guided Patrick

Rory Shaw 22/Mar/11 2nd
vertically_challenged ?/Mar/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2011 -
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
alasdair19 ??/2011 -
farmus21 14/Oct/10 2nd

Wussed out of the night-time lead. Really nice and atmospheric in the dark. Juggy traverse to a short but sustained cruxy top out but never too hard.

with Sam Radcliffe
samrad 14/Oct/10 Lead O/S

lead at night. really good fun climbing via headtourch! was gripping! felt like easy 5b tho.

with james G
Hidden 12/Oct/10 Lead
givemetea 18/Sep/10 Lead rpt
with Sarah Bayley
Hidden 31/Aug/10 2nd
Hidden 15/Aug/10 Lead dog
manik 15/Aug/10 2nd dog
with Ian Lau
gforce 14/Aug/10 Lead
with Kath
Rob Pitt 19/Jun/10 Lead rpt
with Pete Rowlands
Hidden 13/Jun/10 2nd O/S
adamscottthomas 13/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Chris Wright 12/Jun/10 Lead
givemetea 05/Jun/10 2nd O/S
with John T-CC
John Lewis 30/May/10 2nd dog
with Barra
Bennykr 27/May/10 2nd O/S

nice warm up route, good lead by ollie

david morse 24/May/10 Lead O/S
with Lawrence
Shauna 23/May/10 Lead O/S
with Jules
JulesV 23/May/10 2nd O/S
with Shauna Cunningham
Hidden 17/May/10 Lead O/S
wolf.leeb 04/May/10 Lead rpt
Hidden 17/Apr/10 Lead O/S
al99 28/Mar/10 Lead
with Luke Thomas
Hidden 08/Mar/10 Lead
Laurence Everitt 07/Mar/10 Lead O/S
andycooper 07/Mar/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 07/Mar/10 Lead O/S
mr mills ??/2010 -
with ioan d
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 AltLd O/S
centurion05 ??/2010 2nd
with milhouse
DuckingFesperate ??/2010 Lead
Hidden ??/2010 -
Ken Taylor ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
soph ??/2010 -
Dave Rumney 18/Oct/09 2nd
with Paul Drew
theotherpetehill 27/Sep/09 2nd

There was a dead sheep at the bottom

chrisallan 27/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Liam FLeming 13/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with karen dalzell
Mark D 11/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Tom Green
TGreen 11/Sep/09 2nd O/S
with Mark D
simonp ?/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Ivan Green
Ows ?/Aug/09 2nd
@ndyM@rsh@ll 20/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Jul/09 2nd O/S
RachelP 11/Jul/09 2nd
with Chris
Hidden ?/Jul/09 Lead
chris sm 30/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Pippa Froggatt
Kirill 14/Jun/09 Lead O/S
cem 14/Jun/09 2nd rpt
Em66 25/May/09 2nd
with Mat
mike lawrence? 20/Apr/09 Lead
with Simon Kemper
jimdanson 05/Apr/09 Lead
with justin tracey
Justin Tracey 05/Apr/09 2nd
with Jimdanson
barni 03/Apr/09 2nd rpt
with Sally
Glyn 03/Apr/09 2nd O/S
with Sally
jgrigson 16/Mar/09 2nd O/S
cavemancolumbus ?/Mar/09 2nd O/S
with dan
en7edh ??/2009 2nd
Seymore Butt ??/2009 -
Sally Lisle ??/2009 -
Chris M ??/2009 -
jelaby 18/Oct/08 Lead O/S
coffeepot 18/Oct/08 2nd
with jelaby
Hidden 18/Oct/08 2nd dnf
GPN 20/Sep/08 Lead dog
with Annette
Hidden 20/Sep/08 Lead
net 20/Sep/08 2nd dog

Definitely a gear retrieval exercise! And it was about to get dark...

with George
Hidden 20/Sep/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 20/Sep/08 2nd
Hidden ?/Aug/08 Lead O/S
liz77 27/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with HRC
Hidden 23/Jul/08 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/08 2nd
buzby78 28/Jun/08 Lead
Hidden 07/Jun/08 Lead rpt
Wilbur 20/May/08 2nd O/S
with Gareth
Hidden 15/May/08 Lead O/S
Abi Chard 15/May/08 Lead O/S
with Ian
ksjs 12/May/08 Lead rpt
with jose
Hidden 10/May/08 2nd
Hidden 10/May/08 2nd
Hidden ?/May/08 -
jimsrankin ?/May/08 Lead O/S
with Mel
Hidden ?/May/08 Lead
Matt Vigg ??/2008 -
ian caton ??/2008 2nd
with Abi
barni ??/2008 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 AltLd
Marcus ??/2008 -
joe larner 24/Oct/07 Lead O/S
Samsungl 24/Oct/07 2nd
with Joe Larner
Hidden 20/Oct/07 Lead O/S
Carly 20/Oct/07 2nd
with Richard
Sgt. Vest 20/Oct/07 Lead O/S
Marti999 06/Oct/07 Lead O/S
sammoore 13/Sep/07 2nd O/S
with Ivan Holroyd
JPGR 28/Jul/07 2nd O/S
with Paul
cem 23/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with Rob Smithies
ritchierich 05/Jun/07 2nd O/S
with Bob Dickson
Dan 85 04/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with Jonny
lukea ?/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with Al
Hidden 05/May/07 2nd O/S
richardr ?/May/07 -
Pythonist 29/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Dave Barlow
Hidden 18/Apr/07 2nd O/S
adam carless 12/Apr/07 Lead O/S

Had an absolute nightmare. Crap gear all the way along the traverse (admittedly, 2 decent bits at the end), then stood on the ledge for at least 15 mins trying to find a sensible way off it. Finally did the finishing groove scared out of my mind.

DavidR 08/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Apr/07 2nd O/S
blancbleu 20/Mar/07 2nd O/S
with Tim
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
zero six ??/2007 Lead O/S
Chris the Tall 14/Oct/06 2nd
John Kettle 08/Sep/06 AltLd
Bern ?/Sep/06 -
Hidden 12/Aug/06 Lead O/S
Si dH 05/Aug/06 2nd O/S

Found this technically very easy for the grade (thought 4c/5a) and was surprised by the "much fallen off" tag. Neil tought hard 5b though (!) so maybe I was just climbing well, and admittedly at the blunt end of the rope. Nice route.

with Neil Furniss
ewen 04/Aug/06 2nd O/S
with paul james
Shaw Brown 08/Jul/06 2nd
with Chris King
Owain Llewelyn ?/Mar/06 Lead
with Dad
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 2nd O/S
rob.grafton ??/2006 AltLd
with Bruce
Hidden 05/Oct/05 Lead O/S
shoulders 16/Jul/05 Lead O/S
with dai
Hidden 09/Jul/05 2nd
michael burrows 21/Jun/05 Lead
with mike hammill
Hidden ?/Jun/05 2nd
a_radiohead_fan ??/2005 -
akhughes ??/2005 Lead
Luke Brooks ??/2005 -
Alex Mason ??/2005 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2004 2nd O/S
Mark Kemball 12/Jul/03 -
with Nic Dill
Mark Riley ?/Jun/03 2nd β
with Stuart Greenall
Urgles ?/May/03 Lead O/S
with steve c
Hidden 10/Apr/03 Lead O/S
DubyaJamesDubya ?/Jun/02 Lead O/S
with Naomi Walker, Martin Flint
Siderunner 27/Aug/01 2nd

Hard crux move

with Paul M
agagsgrot ?/Jul/01 2nd O/S
with Pete
Dave Musgrove ?/May/01 2nd rpt
with Italian guy?
dan gibson ??/2001 Lead O/S
with helen gibson
RossG ??/2001 -
Hidden 23/Jul/00 2nd O/S
Hidden 16/Jul/00 2nd O/S
belay bunny turned bad ??/2000 -
Ed Booth ??/2000 Lead O/S
Roget 13/Jun/99 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/May/99 2nd O/S
wolf.leeb ??/1999 Lead O/S

1st ever lead

Colin Edwards 15/Aug/98 2nd
Julian Wedd ??/1998 -
Hidden ??/1998 Lead
stuart100 05/Jul/97 Lead O/S
with Claire Graham
Duncan I ?/Jul/97 -
with Simon Coles
tlr 17/May/97 Lead
with Fran
GuyM ??/1996 -
michael burrows 30/Apr/95 Lead rpt
with richard parry
Hidden ??/1995 AltLd
charlesmfrench 05/Aug/94 Lead O/S

An upside down, flaring jam is the key I seem to remember, even after 20 years.

with Cliff
ste_d 18/Jun/94 2nd O/S
with mik
Budge ?/Jun/93 AltLd O/S
with Richard Teed
Hidden 18/Mar/93 2nd
Hidden ??/1993 AltLd
Hidden 14/Jul/92 Lead
WB ??/1992 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1992 Lead
Mick King 08/Sep/91 Lead
with Mark Lavender
mark-abz 26/Aug/91 Lead
with Andy W
Hidden 20/Aug/91 2nd
NickJH ?/Aug/91 Lead
with DWilliams
Rob Davies ?/Jul/91 2nd

I've forgotten doing this with Charles

Hidden 14/May/91 2nd
Hidden 03/May/91 Lead
Ched ??/1991 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
AlanLittle ?/Sep/90 Lead
with Carl Blakeley
Hidden 10/Aug/90 AltLd
steve taylor ?/Jun/90 Lead
with neil willets
Neil R 05/May/90 2nd
with Ian
Hidden 28/Apr/90 2nd
Hidden 28/Apr/90 Lead
michael burrows 01/Apr/90 Lead rpt
with brian jones
Hidden ??/1990 -
michaelb1 ?/Aug/89 Lead

hard at the time

Phil Ingle 15/Jul/89 2nd
with Toby Harris
Hidden 27/May/89 2nd
Hidden 11/May/88 2nd
Dave Musgrove 01/May/88 Lead
with Pete Finklaire, David
rogerskews 14/Jun/87 AltLd
with Bryn Roberts
John Marsland 24/May/87 2nd
with Neil Bulloch
Nick Biven 05/May/87 Lead
Hidden 17/Apr/87 Lead
neil3965 ??/1986 -
Ian Clare ??/1985 -
Robmwatt ??/1985 -
with Gaz Morgan
sadams 22/Aug/84 Lead
with Chris Thwaites
Hidden ??/1984 AltLd
Mark Kemball 31/Jul/83 2nd
with Bill McKee
Tenko 03/Jun/83 2nd O/S
with Nick Rice
nigehughes ?/Jun/83 Lead
nigehughes ?/Jun/83 Lead
with Pete Kay
Hidden ?/Jul/80 Lead O/S
robinsi197 ??/1980 -
with Barbara
Hidden ??/1980 -
Falko ??/1980 AltLd O/S
with Howard Lancashire
Hidden ??/1980 Lead
Hidden ??/1980 -
Mike Owen 17/Jun/79 Lead rpt
with Elaine Watson
Nigel Bond 13/May/79 Lead
with Andy Brown
Chris Terrey 28/Oct/78 AltLd
with Ken Taylor
Brian Wilderspin 23/Sep/78 2nd
with Dave Winter
steve L 19/Aug/78 Lead O/S
uphillnow 22/Sep/77 Lead

climbed in 60's

Rob Davies 01/Apr/77 Lead dnf

Very windy. I hesitated a long time below crux, waiting for a break. Eventually moved up, swaying around in gusts of wind but couldn't reach finishing holds - fell about 25'

with Simon Wheeler (CUMC)
kjacks ??/1977 Lead

Was quite pleased to lead the crux but quite dismayed to find that all the great looking jugs to the stance were flat (and probably still are).

Mark Kemball 16/Sep/76 Lead
with George Mumford
Ian Jones ?/Jul/76 Lead O/S
with Chris Newton
beaumap ?/Jun/76 AltLd
with Bernie Green
Hidden 29/May/76 Lead
Mike Owen 17/Apr/76 -
with John Roberts
Derek Ryden ?/Apr/76 AltLd O/S
with Martin Smith
mikej 25/Oct/75 2nd
with John Bickerdyke
Rob Davies 01/Sep/75 2nd
with Pete McNulty (ICMC)
Hidden ?/Jul/75 -
Bolt Phobia 05/Mar/75 Lead
RichardMc 08/Feb/75 2nd
with Dave Langmead
RichardMc 04/Aug/74 Lead O/S
with Ian Carter
petemeads ??/1974 Lead
granitbahn ??/1974 AltLd
Andy Say ??/1974 Lead
Gordon Stainforth 26/Aug/68 2nd

Very close to our limit. A good climax to our 1968 climbing holiday.

with John Stainforth
mikej 15/Apr/67 Lead
with Geoff Williams
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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 64
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 61
Votes cast 54
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set