Rockfax Description
A line up the grey buttress that forms the right-hand side of the face. It is the most popular of the longer routes. 1) 5. Climb to the base of a big tapering chimney. 2) 6a. Move right onto the arête (lower-off) then up to a steep bulge. A tricky pull gains the belay on the right.3) 6a+ A steep rising traverse leads left then head straight up the wall to easier ground. 4) 5+. The final pitch is very pleasant.Descent - Abseil back down the route. © Rockfax
FA. P.Hern?ndez, T.Pastor 1998.
User | Date | Notes | ||
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goddamm7 | 26 Dec, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Well that’s an outing Pitch 2 has a sting in the tail Pitch 3 felt 6b Pitch 4 at least 6a And the abseil from the last pitch is requiring 80m rope we fell short on a70m | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Well that’s an outing Pitch 2 has a sting in the tail Pitch 3 felt 6b Pitch 4 at least 6a And the abseil from the last pitch is requiring 80m rope we fell short on a70m |
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goddamm7 | 26 Dec, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Well that’s an outing Pitch 2 has a sting in the tail Pitch 3 felt 6b Pitch 4 at least 6a And the abseil from the last pitch is requiring 80m rope we fell short on a70m | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Well that’s an outing Pitch 2 has a sting in the tail Pitch 3 felt 6b Pitch 4 at least 6a And the abseil from the last pitch is requiring 80m rope we fell short on a70m |
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Jeeedeee | 5 Jan, 2015 |
Show βeta
βeta: Nice route and great rock! Easy start, second 6a has a quite hard move, the 6a+ has some small finger holds. Last 5+ still quite hard. Great adventure and view at top. Unfortunately, for the first abseil(from top) is something like 38 meters. So with a 70 m rope, like we ended up at the first bolt of the last pitch and we had to climb back down to the belay. Luckily we did not forgot a knot in the end of the rope!!! So use a 80 m rope, or 2x50/60. Heard from some English guys there is also another abseil further to the right. | ||
Show beta
βeta: Nice route and great rock! Easy start, second 6a has a quite hard move, the 6a+ has some small finger holds. Last 5+ still quite hard. Great adventure and view at top. Unfortunately, for the first abseil(from top) is something like 38 meters. So with a 70 m rope, like we ended up at the first bolt of the last pitch and we had to climb back down to the belay. Luckily we did not forgot a knot in the end of the rope!!! So use a 80 m rope, or 2x50/60. Heard from some English guys there is also another abseil further to the right. |
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john yates | 16 Dec, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: Agree with Brian. Three pitches not four. First belay wrongly illustrated in the picture. It is actually down and to the left in the cave. Next pitch is steep and has some loose rock but is good climbing with care. There are now several very good looking single pitch routes to the left of this route. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Agree with Brian. Three pitches not four. First belay wrongly illustrated in the picture. It is actually down and to the left in the cave. Next pitch is steep and has some loose rock but is good climbing with care. There are now several very good looking single pitch routes to the left of this route. |
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colin7298 | 27 Mar, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: we did this route last week.It starts at its name plate which is more left than the picture shows.The bolts are black for first pitch ,then turn to green.The rock on pitch two was a bit loose and conglomerate. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: we did this route last week.It starts at its name plate which is more left than the picture shows.The bolts are black for first pitch ,then turn to green.The rock on pitch two was a bit loose and conglomerate. |
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Grade: 6a+ ***
(La Panocha)