The Milky Way** II/III
[Approaching the Milky Way., 2 kb]100m, 3 pitches. No description has been contributed for this climb.

Ticklists: Cairngorm Winter Climbs.

Photo: Approaching the Milky Way. © Mr Fuller
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This climb is in 246 logbooks, and on 30 wishlists.

Robertgiddy - Solo - 29/Mar/15

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/Mar/15

fait - Lead - 13/Mar/15

scott mayled - Lead O/S - 12/Mar/15 with Euan Whitaker

Lead both pitches. First wasn't great but the second more than made up for it. Good route.
franhammond92 - Lead O/S - 14/Feb/15 with Calum Harvey, USMC, David Robinnette

Great day but lots of cloud and a windy top out
origamib - 2nd O/S - 14/Feb/15

Led pitch 1, James led pitch 2. Steady throughout but felt bold in places and harder than a grade 3 due to the soft nature of the Neve. Route felt like a great adventure
RUDIN.J.D.H - AltLd O/S - 14/Feb/15 with James Higgins

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 09/Feb/15

Some bomber neve, top pitch after notch, some tricky moves past steps with little frozen turf. Only ice on the bottom 2 metres.
Scott_vzr - 2nd O/S - 08/Feb/15

If this is II/III under these conditions, then I am getting too old for this! Soft powder all round traverse in and generally poor snow/ice on climb. Phil's imagination and experience meant some gear but not much. But brilliant top out just before sunset.
kj001 - 2nd - 06/Feb/15 with Phil Dowthwaite

Hidden - TR - 03/Feb/15

stanleynkk - AltLd - Jan/15 with Huw Mackin, Richard Kendrick

mattguy - Jan/15

Richard Kendrick - AltLd O/S - Jan/15 with Stanley

alasdair19 - 2015

Practically no usable gear on the entire route, this was defiantly type 2 fun but only just as Gen thought she was going to die repeatedly.
maddy92 - AltLd O/S - 20/Dec/14

Would be lovely if there was gear, line was not obvious and was extremely bold. Not sure how this is II/III, felt comparable to E3 5a.
i.fish2000 - AltLd O/S - 20/Dec/14 with Jon Hardman, David Maddison

Not very difficult moves but gear is pretty non-existent on this route.
HardmanJ - 2nd O/S - 20/Dec/14 with David Maddison, Imogen Fish

luckyjim - AltLd - 07/Dec/14 with D Helm

punj - AltLd - 11/Jan/14 with Russell Shanks

Deeply unpleasant. Powdery thawing crud to wade/teeter up with two bits of gear in 100 m. Asked for a top-rope for the last 3 metres.
Mr Fuller - AltLd - 10/Jan/14 with Paul Gibbison

K Mckay - AltLd O/S - 10/Jan/14 with Steve Hutton

Truly awful. Very banked out, one piece of gear per pitch, crap belays, plus the obligatory shonky cornice. Altogether a regrettable experience. I wish I'd been on a grade 6 instead, itr would have felt safer.
GaryK - AltLd O/S - 09/Jan/14 with Roger Webb

Jonescrusher - AltLd O/S - 04/Jan/14 with Phil Whitfield

Si - 2014

GordonAinslie - 2014

Took a lot of digging to find pro. Last pitch was very run out.
waiting for snow - AltLd O/S - 17/Dec/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Dec/13

The route was lean and difficult. Early climbing season.
Mapleleaf - AltLd - 09/Nov/13 with Jim Hall

Everything steeper was black. A very wintery day though with lots of new snow, frozen eyebrows and frozen snotters
graeme gatherer - Nov/13

glenngordon - AltLd O/S - 02/Mar/13 with gordon and bruce

Attempt to climb Milky Way in milky fog. We followed other team from Guildford Mountaineering, who managed to find a route in whiteout conditions. I lead first and second pitch and caught up with them on second stance. It seemed like an easy exit snow field from that point. However, Coups who lead exit pitch reported slushy cornice and had to downclimb back to the stance. All of us abbed off from this point using in situ tat - many people must have done it before ..
andrzej kierzek - Lead dnf - 20/Feb/13

GlennWatson - Solo - 20/Feb/13

Hidden - 09/Feb/13

CMacD - Feb/13

Zippy1999 - Feb/13 with Joe Gibson

Done in two pitches. I led first one.
Nille - 13/Jan/13 with johannes

A bit tricky to avoid the windslab at the exit
johannes - AltLd O/S - 13/Jan/13

scotclimb - AltLd - 13/Jan/13 with Maguel Martin

Elsier - AltLd O/S - 12/Jan/13 with Inken LSCC, Koon

Led 1st and 3rd pitch.
mksmith35 - AltLd O/S - 12/Jan/13 with Mark Roe

Done in 3 pitches. Lead pitch 2.
MarkRoe - AltLd O/S - 12/Jan/13 with Smithy

Led pitch 1 and 3. Conditions lean but turf excellent.
Koon - AltLd O/S - 12/Jan/13 with Elsie

Adrianw - 2nd O/S - 12/Jan/13 with John Vaughan

David Weston - 2nd - 29/Dec/12 with James Long

James_L88 - Lead O/S - 29/Dec/12 with Dave Weston

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 16/Dec/12

Hidden - 2nd - 03/Nov/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Feb/12

first unguided winter climb.. very fun!
jemmerson5 - 2nd O/S - 13/Feb/12

Matthew Robinson - Lead - 12/Feb/12 with Joe

MaxR - 2nd - 11/Feb/12

Lots of loose snow everywhere!
AGoodi - Lead O/S - 05/Feb/12 with Noemie Perret

One fall on the third pitches
noemie5438 - 2nd dog - 05/Feb/12 with Amy Goodill

Hidden - Solo O/S - 04/Feb/12

Jack Loftus - Solo O/S - 04/Feb/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 03/Feb/12

grp - Lead O/S - 03/Feb/12 with jon_ridley

jon_ridley - 2nd O/S - 03/Feb/12 with Will Pope, Geoff Pyatt

becoming-stranger - 2nd O/S - 03/Feb/12 with Geoff Pyatt, Jon Ridley

The Mountain Goat - AltLd O/S - 29/Jan/12 with Dom Sellers

Somerset swede basher - AltLd O/S - 29/Jan/12 with Jon Miles

a13x - AltLd O/S - 29/Jan/12 with Caspian

samwillo - AltLd - 29/Jan/12 with Lairig Climbing Club

First winter and mountain lead. Lots of in situ gear, really fun route.
peter.herd - AltLd O/S - 29/Jan/12 with Sam Williams

freudy_love - Lead O/S - 28/Jan/12 with Donald Campbell, Neil Barron

Hidden - 2nd - 28/Jan/12

Tricky in places in the conditions. Windslab accumulating, there was a small avalanche off to the right.
Andy Moles - Solo O/S - 26/Jan/12 with -

Rob84 - AltLd - 24/Jan/12 with Brian Seery

Great route bit thin on ice at the bottom but worth the two stars
eccyamigo - AltLd - 22/Jan/12 with Milo Dog, Brian Leonard

Very thin with some exciting moves.
mes32 - 2nd O/S - 22/Jan/12

milodog - AltLd - 22/Jan/12 with Mr B, eccyamigo

Hidden - 15/Jan/12

mikecollins - AltLd O/S - 15/Jan/12 with manmike

jason - AltLd O/S - 15/Jan/12 with mike, manmike

Liam FLeming - 13/Jan/12 with jill plumber

tim123487 - Lead - 11/Jan/12

muzz44 - Lead - 04/Jan/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Jan/12

On the walk in I felt quite like shit... But soon my climbing psych hit. The right line I did lose... So I pulled some big moves... And topped out and screamed like a bitch!
67hours - Lead O/S - 02/Jan/12 with Will Bourne

Moved over here after backing off the approach to Osophagus due to deep powder and avalanchy conditions in Y-Gully right. Took the start quite direct to make it more interesting but ended up having to take a lot of time because the leader ahead of us strayed on to appetite for destruction and had a bit of an epic, all walked off together in the dark in a whiteout resulting in a very long day, but worth it. Lots of spindrift again, and a fair bit of deep powder on the approach, upper part of the route and the walkout.
R_W_M - Lead O/S - 02/Jan/12 with Steve C

Ragingpossum - 2nd - 02/Jan/12 with George cave

SteveCarratt - 2nd - 02/Jan/12

Hidden - 2nd - Jan/12

Callum Anderson - 2012

Fell and broke my leg trying the first pitch. Lack of ice - lots of loose snow. Rescued by helicopter which was an experience! Had to leave 3 bits of gear - anybody finds these, I would be extremely grateful for return. A warthog, nut and really nice cam (I think it was a Camalot, size .75, green) and long extenders.
chisanga - AltLd dnf - 20/Dec/11 with Justin

Lenny - AltLd O/S - 11/Dec/11 with Paul

Felt hard for the grade due to unconsolidated snow.
climbing_wiggy - AltLd O/S - 11/Dec/11 with Leon

DigitalSteak - 2nd O/S - 07/Mar/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 06/Mar/11

Hidden - AltLd - 06/Mar/11

t_stork - Lead O/S - 06/Mar/11 with Finlay

Moved together with Tom. Another lairig mass ascent.
CacCarnBeag - 2nd - 06/Mar/11 with Steve, Andy Ruck, Tom Stork

Hidden - AltLd - 06/Mar/11

Hidden - AltLd - 06/Mar/11

Tdavy01 - Lead - 05/Mar/11

TomPollock - 2nd O/S - 03/Mar/11 with Andy

Hidden - Mar/11

Rickrick - AltLd - Mar/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Feb/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Feb/11

Great route, in wonderful nic. Lead the 1st and 3rd pitch, although the 1st pitch seemed to total 45-50 metres. Bit of a struggle finding a belay. Nice top out.
brighters - AltLd - 28/Feb/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/Feb/11

Done in 2 pitches. Michael led the (1) technical pitch. I led the (2) snow slope pitch to the top.
Kirill - AltLd O/S - 26/Feb/11 with Michael Hosemann

PeteLoveless - 2nd - 06/Feb/11

elbeanio - 2nd - 21/Jan/11

Brucemacrosson - Lead - 20/Jan/11 with Jonathan Cox

scorky345 - Lead - 19/Jan/11 with Luke Hefferman

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jan/11

Hidden - AltLd - Jan/11

Hidden - 2011

PAJames - 2011

Hidden - 2011

newtonmore - AltLd - 2011

mwatson - 2011

Hidden - 21/Nov/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 20/Nov/10

JdotP - AltLd O/S - 20/Nov/10 with Krzysztof Gorgolewski

oliverk - Lead O/S - 13/Nov/10 with Dan

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 13/Nov/10

Pete Graham - Solo - 13/Nov/10 with James Monypenny

Hidden - Lead - 20/Mar/10

Seconded with one walking axe
stevelismore - 2nd O/S - 20/Mar/10 with James L

Hidden - 2nd - 08/Feb/10

matt_ringrose - Lead - 08/Feb/10 with Alex Nevard

Hidden - 2010

philw - 2010

Hidden - AltLd - 2010

backed off due to deteriorating conditions.
JamieSparkes - 2nd dnf - 19/Dec/09 with Andrew Latham

stuart34 - Lead O/S - 18/Dec/09

thomasaneurinsmith - AltLd O/S - 13/Dec/09 with Carol Goodall

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Dec/09

Hidden - 2nd - 12/Dec/09

jameshiggins - Solo - 05/Dec/09

calumalien - AltLd - Dec/09 with Mr Chevall

Hidden - 2nd - 28/Nov/09

goingupintheworld - Lead O/S - 28/Nov/09 with Nikki, Becca

becca1990 - 2nd - 28/Nov/09 with Nikki, Rich

Hidden - AltLd - 08/Nov/09

LOTS of powder and not much else meant a slight detour to the right and a scary topout with the worst belay i've set up so far...(buried axe in the only bit of snow that was deep enough...the cornice. not cool.) lead pitches 1 and 3
frecro - AltLd O/S - 07/Nov/09 with olly gourd

jfmchivall - AltLd O/S - Nov/09 with Calum Hendry

Danny Boy Dunbar - Lead O/S - 12/Mar/09 with Martin Coleman

suunto12 - 2nd O/S - 03/Mar/09 with Dad, Giles

joeharvey - Mar/09

Wanderer100 - 2nd rpt - Mar/09

georgec - Lead O/S - Mar/09 with Martin Boner

MDowson - AltLd O/S - 01/Feb/09 with Karl wood

1st proper winter lead! good banked out conditions - hard nieve and ice, but sparse gear
Woodiee - AltLd O/S - 01/Feb/09 with Matt Dowson

Hidden - Lead - 31/Jan/09

A lot of unconsolidated snow on the route, but we were the third party climbing today so not too bad, except for the run-out!
PeteH - 2nd O/S - 27/Jan/09 with Dave Leonard

DaveLeonard - Lead - 27/Jan/09 with PeteH

My first lead at this grade. Lots of powder, and very run out. Great fun.
J Brown - AltLd O/S - 24/Jan/09 with RK

Hidden - AltLd - 24/Jan/09

I lead P1 (40m) and P3 (30m), Brian lead P2 (30m).
masa-alpin - AltLd O/S - 03/Jan/09 with Brian Q

Jamie Simpson - 2009

timmy-ts - 2009

Buried in snow, not much ice, what a mission!
overexposure - AltLd O/S - 14/Dec/08 with LB

centurion05 - Solo - 08/Dec/08 with chris thorne

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Nov/08

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 02/Nov/08

Nice early season route.
Ally Baba - AltLd O/S - 02/Nov/08 with R. Mcmurry

Powdery snow lower part of route. Good route.
Jim Slater - 2nd O/S - 01/Nov/08 with Tim Pearson, Phil Lee

Good climb with interesting steps. Some chossy snow.
dthomson - 09/Mar/08 with Mike Dixon

Hidden - 09/Mar/08

david0811 - AltLd - 07/Mar/08 with Mark Reid

Ace.. 1st mixed route. Interesting all the way. Lead 1st and 3rd (last) pitch
jimsrankin - AltLd - 02/Mar/08 with John & Mel

John Kettle - AltLd - 02/Mar/08

Becky E - 2nd O/S - 01/Mar/08 with Andy Nisbet

Different Steve - AltLd O/S - 01/Mar/08 with Andy Hansler

Hidden - 2nd - 01/Mar/08

PanzerHanzler - AltLd O/S - 01/Mar/08 with Steve Culverhouse

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/Feb/08

Mr.Billiams - Lead - 12/Jan/08 with Amy & Lyndsey

Glyn - 2nd dnf - 03/Jan/08 with David Fountain

Alastair MacSween - AltLd - 03/Jan/08 with Phil Warriner

lots of powder and snowing hard, weather deteriating. Think was trying to gain the ridge from the wrong place (from left, very hard). Back off and ran away :-(
davefount - Lead dnf - Jan/08 with Glyn Hudson

Neil D - AltLd O/S - Jan/08 with Jonny Phillips

Hidden - AltLd - Jan/08

stuaart - 2nd O/S - 2008 with Neil Redgrave

TrollJester - AltLd O/S - 2008 with VARIOUS Throughout 80's+90's

adw07 - AltLd - 30/Dec/07 with Mark Jarvie

Great route, with some entertainment on the second pitch. Surprising for a thin looking Lochain, but nevie all the way; tho most of it was crusty and shite. Some bomber stuff was about and a few bits frozen turf, ice and the occasional mixed move were also found.
andymoin - AltLd O/S - 23/Dec/07 with ollie

robertporter - AltLd O/S - 18/Dec/07

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Dec/07

Good fun. Clare did top pitch. Snow mostly solid, powdery in places.
Cardi - Lead O/S - 17/Dec/07 with Clare D

Eccentric - AltLd O/S - 16/Dec/07 with Sarah (Crumbly Rubbish)

Mark Walter - AltLd O/S - Dec/07 with Steve Becwith

Really nice route with a fun run-out at the top.
annabel hodges - 2nd - Dec/07 with Jon Bleiker

d_meacher - 2nd O/S - Dec/07 with Mark Walter

smcw - Dec/07

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/Nov/07

Hidden - AltLd - 25/Nov/07

very snowy!
morsy - AltLd - 25/Nov/07 with gerhard mors

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 20/Feb/07

Hidden - 2007

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Dec/06

Hidden - Dec/06

Captain Solo - Solo - 16/Apr/06

aged_ape - AltLd O/S - Mar/06 with LM

jamestheyip - AltLd O/S - 22/Jan/06 with Miguel Ciriza

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/Jan/06

Birdie - 03/Jan/06 with Oli

Hidden - 2006

CurlyStevo - AltLd - 2006

Hidden - 2006

Rob Pitt - 2006

konacol - Lead - 31/Dec/05 with Monica Dean

Hidden - 04/Dec/05

Hidden - Lead - 03/Dec/05

tallthinmonkey - 2nd - Dec/05 with Ewan Paterson

francis blunt - 2nd - Feb/05 with Kas and Tom

Hidden - 2nd - Dec/04

Chris L Hill - 2nd - Dec/04 with Di Gilbert, Stuart Shaw

sam coward - 2nd - Apr/03 with Mike and Lisyane

First ever winter climb :)
mrtom - 2nd O/S - 17/Mar/03 with Ben Williams, James Sample

Hidden - AltLd - 17/Mar/03

Early season start. Led P1.
Andy Clarke - AltLd O/S - 15/Mar/03 with Tommo, Alex

crowberry gully - 28/Feb/03 with Ross McGibbon

Hidden - AltLd - 01/Jan/03

joe king - 2003

Hidden - Solo O/S - 31/Dec/02

Tim W - AltLd O/S - Dec/02 with Matt Kilner, Jamie Moss

Hidden - Lead O/S - Feb/02

abbeywall - AltLd - 21/Apr/01 with K

Gman - AltLd O/S - Feb/01 with Carl

lawrenceK - AltLd - Jan/01

Andy Say - Lead - 29/Feb/00 with Fireman Steve

Hidden - 2000

Hidden - Solo - 30/Jan/99

Hidden - 01/Jan/99

Hidden - 1999

Jamie B - Lead - Feb/98 with Kris Quayle

niall_mac - AltLd - Jan/98 with am_bodach

dangates - 1998 with Kat Jones

seanyt - AltLd - Mar/97

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jan/97

Hidden - 1997

Hidden - AltLd - 10/Jan/94

Yourlead - AltLd - 07/Apr/90 with Kevin

dodders - Lead - 16/Feb/89 with Shaun Pickering

mark-abz - Solo - 17/Feb/88 with Andy W

Bob - AltLd O/S - 10/Jan/87 with J. Topping

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 10/Jan/87

Hidden - Lead - 1987

Mark Kemball - AltLd - 16/Jan/83 with Paul "Curly" Williamson

John Marsland - 2nd - 26/Mar/82 with Dave Mould

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
IainMay, Trevers, damob123, blue_sundown, iksander, CRiddiford, Dustin, Ruari Brooker, The Mountain Goat, halfaseesaw, Tom Robinson, Protheroe, Watty

Total votes cast 103
hard III2 of 48
III1 of 48
easy III26 of 48
hard II/III5 of 48
II/III10 of 48
easy II/III1 of 48
hard II3 of 48
II0 of 48
easy II0 of 48
3 Stars1 of 55
2 Stars40 of 55
1 Star6 of 55
0 Stars7 of 55
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean repeat