Central Crack Route** IV 5
[Main pitch of Central crack route, 2 kb]No description has been contributed for this climb.

Ticklists: Cold Climbs, In the footsteps of the Cairngorm Tigers, Cairngorm Winter Climbs.

Photo: Main pitch of Central crack route © Ryan Wilson
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This climb is in 101 logbooks, and on 20 wishlists.

rob16 - AltLd - 11/Feb/15 with Matt Brook

Awesome, such fun climbing at the start! Interesting finish to the route...
joe.91 - AltLd O/S - 17/Jan/15 with Andy Harrison

Little AndyH - AltLd O/S - 17/Jan/15

gavmac - AltLd - 03/Jan/15 with Steve Paget

Steven Carter - AltLd O/S - 2015

Hidden - AltLd - 29/Dec/14

Excellent conditions, cold, clear and sunny. Led a tricky first pitch, with crux and chimney, well frozen turf further up where it widened out. Second and third pitches led by Rob, including a run out section at the top to a powdery cornice. Great views across a windy plateau. Triggered a small slab release from wind-blown build up on the western descent back to the lochan - lucky is wasn't worse and a timely reminder to be mindful of changing conditions throughout the day.
prwalker - AltLd - 29/Dec/14 with wupert

yesbutnobutyesbut - 2014

GordonAinslie - 2014

AidanMorris - AltLd - 07/Dec/13

robgixer - AltLd - Dec/13

oliverk - Lead O/S - 23/Nov/13 with Zoe

BillyBurnside1 - AltLd - 09/Nov/13

Hidden - 09/Mar/13

Bailed after pitch 1 - conditions were bad and unsuitable.
mikecollins - Lead dnf - 09/Mar/13 with manmike

Steep and hard start, followed by a powder swim and lots of pulling up onto powdery ledges. I think Carol enjoyed herself leading her first cornice...
jonnie3430 - AltLd O/S - 02/Feb/13 with Will, Carol

Great climb with a steep start and interesting steps all the way up. Was very snowy so glad to be on second most of the way but tackled a tunnel-like cornice to finish off.
Carol Goodall - AltLd O/S - 02/Feb/13 with Will Taylor, Jonnie Williams

PAJames - 13/Jan/13

Hidden - 2013

alasdair19 - 2013

Struggled a bit on the initial crack but got there in the end. Some useful ice on 2nd pitch but gear hard to find, easy neve romp to finish. Great top out with the setting sun.
Captain Solo - AltLd - 11/Dec/12 with Barry

Hidden - AltLd - 19/Nov/12

guy757 - 03/Nov/12

Hidden - 2nd - 03/Nov/12

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 03/Nov/12

BallsOfSteel - Lead O/S - 27/Oct/12 with steve peatfield

closer to IV 6 than tech 5 on the day. crux very aqward and pretty pummpy
connor - AltLd β - 05/Feb/12 with willey

Hidden - AltLd - 29/Jan/12

Hidden - AltLd - 29/Jan/12

with greg, more sustained than the guide book suggests, crux definitely first pitch bit next two had there moments pulling over bulges, scary steep snow at the top. Busy day in Lachain as well, teams on virtually all the classic grade 6/7 mixed routes and even a film crew.
Brannock - Lead O/S - 28/Jan/12

steev - AltLd O/S - 27/Jan/12 with Andy Buckley

Cool route. First couple of bulges pretty hard, then easier above. The final line of The Crack in the headwall looks like it'd make an awesome finale for those capable of it.
andybuckley - AltLd - 27/Jan/12 with Steve Crawford

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 26/Jan/12

Edvin m - Lead O/S - 26/Jan/12

sneaks - AltLd O/S - 14/Jan/12 with janey

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/Jan/12

Hidden - 2012

Nice climb, bit rushed due to it being second route of the day, climbed second pitch through cornice in dark, very atmospheric! :/ Nice first pitch though.
geoff.comley - AltLd O/S - 15/Dec/11 with Pat Ingram

P1 then mark led to below the cornice where i climbed through to top. Tony full of cold so stayed on second.
Andrew Wilson - AltLd O/S - 03/Dec/11 with Mark Schmude, Tony Womersley

Brilliant route in v. good night. Simon put in a blinder of a lead on the 1st pitch.
Brucemacrosson - AltLd O/S - 27/Feb/11 with Simon Opit

Soooperb nick. Three stars on the day.
John Workman - Lead - 06/Feb/11 with Chris D

Pete Graham - AltLd - 30/Jan/11 with Tom Powell, Tom Everett

tom.e - AltLd O/S - 30/Jan/11 with Pete, Tom Powell

Mr Powly - AltLd O/S - 30/Jan/11 with Pete Graham, Tom Everett

White-out made it difficult to find the crag. Somehow zigzagged underneath them all and summited onto the plateau to the West. We then followed the summit ridge back to the Couloir and descended this to eventually find our route. Quality route in good condition. Led 2nd & 4th pitches. Enough gear placements where required on the first pitch but virtually none after that. Climbing was steady enough from this point onwards however.
Big Lee - AltLd O/S - 23/Jan/11 with Ryan Wilson

jonnybull - AltLd O/S - Jan/11 with Sam

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jan/11

Timo Austino - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

great first pitch, steep start and interesting moves. First route of the season - conditions much better than expected. Recommended.
adw07 - AltLd O/S - 13/Nov/10 with Scott Becker, Andy Main

andymoin - AltLd O/S - 13/Nov/10 with Warren, American Scot

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 29/Mar/10

michael83 - AltLd O/S - 29/Mar/10 with Mark

Definitely at least V in the conditions. A lot of snow and not all of it was that secure. Pitch 1 awkward and a bit sketchy. Pitch 2 at least 4 with a fall factor of 2 a distinct possibility, therefore V. Pitch 3 mostly II with nay gear but a V 4 through the cornice. Great finish in the dark. Great leads from Jason and Dan.
Ian Jones - 2nd O/S - 09/Mar/10 with Dan Moore, jazzyjackson, Jason Moffat

Headtorch finish and borderline epic.
jazzyjackson - AltLd - 09/Mar/10 with Dan, Ian Jones

Hidden - AltLd - 09/Mar/10

led 2
abbeywall - AltLd - 13/Dec/09 with K, FM

Awkward start which wasn't holding much ice. Otherwise a beautiful day and perfect conditions.
jameshiggins - AltLd O/S - 12/Dec/09 with Hebe

Greg Boswell - AltLd O/S - 08/Dec/09 with James Dunn

Hidden - AltLd - Dec/09

Hidden - 2nd β - 07/Mar/09

Lots of powder covering the route. Nasty cornice to finish.
adamscottthomas - AltLd - 26/Jan/09 with Andy Wardle

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 08/Jan/09

Jamie Simpson - 2009

timmy-ts - 2009

Guidebook lies, the 2nd pitch is hard enough and has an interesting/head scratcher step up to the big wall! Good mixed route.
simon_D - Lead O/S - 13/Dec/08 with Roger C

nakedave - AltLd O/S - 06/Dec/08 with adam noble

Hidden - AltLd - 06/Dec/08

Did the first three pitches got dark and abseiled off. A rather hard introduction to scottish winter climbing. Need to consolidate at II/III then work back up to this grade and be able to lead at this level!
maxots - 2nd dnf - 02/Nov/08 with Helena EUMC

Neil D - AltLd O/S - Jan/08 with Jonny Phillips

TrollJester - AltLd O/S - 2008 with VARIOUS Throughout 80's+90's

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 21/Dec/07

I pulled on gear - twice! I should grade this route IV,5 A2. Lack of fitness and first route of the season, plus the difficulties being getting off the ground and therefore with big decking potential, led to me holding gear. Didn't use my tools until the second hard section. Not much snow build up, deeper snow would make the route easier. Decent weather but snow not frozen, corrie full of folk. Pitch 3 had two awkward steps, tech. 5, that are not in the guide so I suspect we were off route. Late finish.
AndyP - AltLd dog - 02/Dec/07 with Will

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Dec/07

simonw1 - 2nd O/S - 18/Feb/07 with Nick and Steve

timmy-ts - 2007

mikecopp - AltLd - 18/Dec/06 with Alex M

Dangerous Dave - Lead O/S - 08/Dec/06 with Neil Batchelor,Time Rose

Last climb with neil. We won't forget you.
oor wullie - AltLd - 08/Dec/06 with Dave Cowan and Neil Batchelor

Hidden - 2006

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Dec/05

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/Feb/03

Hidden - 01/Jan/03

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Feb/02

nickdonohue - AltLd - Jan/02 with Barry ?

Dave Kerr - Sent - 23/Dec/01 with Steve Wells

Hidden - 2000

Richard Weller - 13/Dec/99 with Nick Cruden

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Oct/98

CMacD - 1995

Melting and wet. Fell off.... in old guidebook this was grade III. flippin eck it was desperate. glad to see it is now IV 5/6.
jlury - 2nd - 15/Jan/92 with Wolfgang Klein

Yourlead - 2nd - 27/Mar/90 with Graham Penny

Hidden - 1989

mark-abz - Lead - 17/Feb/88 with Andy W

Hidden - AltLd - 1988

rob from scotland - 1987

Hidden - 1987

Hidden - AltLd - 23/Nov/86

my second winter route in Scotland. Was given grade III at the time.
Bob - AltLd O/S - 28/Dec/82 with D. Geere

Peg for aid on the first pitch. Spindrift pouring down face. Exit cornice 20 feet of vertical mush - desperate!
Derek Ryden - Lead dog - 19/Mar/75 with George Backshall

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
ColdAndWet, JamesWilliams, jrob8319, hoppojoe7, Zippy1999, iksander, dek, Dustin, PanzerHanzler

Total votes cast 70
hard V0 of 24
V0 of 24
easy V1 of 24
hard IV3 of 24
IV19 of 24
easy IV1 of 24
hard III0 of 24
III0 of 24
easy III0 of 24
hard 60 of 24
60 of 24
easy 61 of 24
hard 513 of 24
56 of 24
easy 53 of 24
hard 41 of 24
40 of 24
easy 40 of 24
3 Stars2 of 22
2 Stars17 of 22
1 Star2 of 22
0 Stars1 of 22
Bag of .....0 of 22
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat