HS. A long route with a spectacular finish. Start to the right of some large bushes growing 10m up the face.
1) 4, 45m. Climb cracks and grooves to the right of the tree then continue direct up a thin crack. Follow this, and the broken rocks, to a belay on the left.
2) 2, 20m. Climb the short wall onto the vegetated slab and head left to the base of the slabs on the left.
3) 4, 30m. Climb the slab and then the slanting corner to a recess. Go rightwards up the diagonal arete then a short wall. Move left and right, past a bush, to a good belay ledge.
4) 4+, 30m. Climb the crack to the head-wall and traverse left to the base of the steeper section. Climb the fault-line and move right to a good flake. Pull over the roof and climb the slab to a belay. The easier finish of The Wasp is just to the left if needed! © Rockfax
FA. R.Edwards 1998
|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
first and last pitch
Lead pitches 3 and 4
MP. Fully trad climb which shares elements with Wasp. Very difficult top moves.
|Lyndsay Superclimber||29/Dec/13||AltLd O/S||
I led 3rd & 4th pitch - great views at the top :-)
|Jonny Harrison||14/Nov/13||Lead O/S|
With Paddy and Kev. Hard for a 4+. Take extra tat for abseils -First ab - bolt and tat, second ab- tat only
The last pitch was stiff for 4+.
|Ian JL||26/Mar/13||Lead O/S|
Lead 1st pitch
|A Mountain Journey||??/2013||-|
Did 2 and last pitch
|A Mountain Journey||07/Jan/12||AltLd|
first pitch only (HS)
Jake lead P1. Ab off from P1 belay.
|Cat Hendrie||?/Oct/10||Lead O/S|
2x ab off
|auld al||?/Jan/09||AltLd O/S|
Me p1&3, Jo p2. Missed top pitch.
Greg and Jo (RCL)
Lead all but first pitch
Cas lead first pitch, we found two nuts! Failed at crux with more gear left in 5m from top.
John retreated a few metres from top (sting is in the tail!)
Army Expedition Climbing
A stunning last pitch with solid holds and gear. Just grab the cemented block and go ape!
2nd first 3 pitches, lead last pitch - difficult move at end before final belay.
I followed carol then it rained on my pitch, so we abseiled off after an extreme picnic.