Savage Slit*** V 6
[savage Slit. Severe. Coire an Lochan , 2 kb]No description has been contributed for this climb.

Ticklists: Cairngorm Winter Climbs.

Photo: savage Slit. Severe. Coire an Lochan © keith hal
View all 56 photos or

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 214 logbooks, and on 91 wishlists.

Brilliant route, absolutely plastered
Scotsken - AltLd O/S - 02/Mar/14 with Jamie Evans

More of a archaeological excavation than a climb. Powdery in the chimney, but some nevi at bottom. Thick verglas on the chimney walls and verglas and some hoarfrost on walls either side, making gear very hard to find or excavate. Some better gear opportunities emerged on top pitch as the verglas thinned. Overall totally brilliant climb!
jamiefoxen - Lead O/S - 01/Mar/14 with bob foster

Hard as very snowy - wall on left virtually no help - neve on slab usuable in places!!
davesykes - Lead - 25/Jan/14 with Stan

dragged up by Percy, and what a sterling job he did, conditions were pretty desperate, no ice just banked up with soft snow. Required a spot of feet-less pull up on axes and some interesting frogging movements.
mikehenesy - 2nd dog - 29/Dec/13 with Percy

Felt a bit stiff with the conditions but possibly just because it was first route of the year.
gripped01 - Lead O/S - 29/Dec/13 with Mike Henesy

Uisdean hawthorn - AltLd O/S - 26/Dec/13 with Dad

My first Scottish V lead, amazing!!
Mr. K - Lead O/S - 08/Dec/13 with Masa Sakano

Kyle's first grade V, and he did it very well. Done in 2 pitches. Rocks being rimed with some but not too much snow, the temperature floating at around zero, the conditions were great. We set off the carpark at 6:20, yet we were the third party of the route.
masa-alpin - 2nd rpt - 07/Dec/13 with Kyle

Hidden - AltLd - 30/Nov/13

John Workman - AltLd - 23/Nov/13 with Billy

Perfect conditions, fantastic route. Easy for the grade.
adw07 - AltLd O/S - 23/Nov/13 with Tom Jumar, Scott Becker

A long-held ambition....magic!
BillyBurnside1 - AltLd - 23/Nov/13 with John Workman

scottbecker - AltLd O/S - 23/Nov/13 with Tom Jumar, Andrew Warren

I don't know whether to love it, or hate it. I'm glad it's out of the way, as it has been a bogey man for me for a long time.
GaryK - Lead O/S - 21/Nov/13 with Stuart Inchley

pitch 2, great!
stuart34 - AltLd O/S - 21/Nov/13 with gary k

Hidden - AltLd - 12/Aug/13

Led the first pitch to the start of the slit, and a pitch from the second chock stone to the top of the slit where we abbed back down. Windy, warm (water running behind ice and bits falling off) - not the most pleasant conditions.
Ant Man Bee - AltLd O/S - 02/Mar/13 with Kirill Spiridonov

Was nicely rimed in the morning when we started but melted as we climbed. Made us very wet. Found it very hard.
Kirill - AltLd - 02/Mar/13 with Paul Bolton

sustained then!
Steven Andrews - 2nd O/S - 19/Feb/13 with Ben Tibbetts

Scott Rankin - AltLd - 09/Feb/13

Gordon Lacey - AltLd O/S - 09/Feb/13

Lovely, glad I did it again, a wonderful route.
jonnie3430 - Lead rpt - 03/Feb/13 with Will, Carol

And Will. Afternoon route on a wet and windy day. Very enjoyable struggle!
Carol Goodall - 2nd O/S - 03/Feb/13 with Will Taylor, Jonnie Williams

mshorter - AltLd O/S - 13/Jan/13 with ry

Hidden - AltLd - 11/Jan/13

Hidden - AltLd - 11/Jan/13

done as two pitches, i led 1+2 together then tim to the top. Awesome to get this ticked as first route of the season!
James S - AltLd O/S - 10/Jan/13 with tim

tim newton - AltLd O/S - 10/Jan/13 with james smith

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/Jan/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/Jan/13

Incredible route!! Poor Lotte got very cold but still cruised her first V!!!
Spence22 - Lead O/S - 01/Jan/13 with Charlie

Ri - 2013 with mike

Pretty Pleased doing this after fighting up in terrible weather, really fantastic and very memorable.
Sam Simpson - Lead O/S - 30/Dec/12 with Mark Grist

The Grist - 2nd O/S - 30/Dec/12 with Sam Simpson

Bailed, was taking too long to clean!
radioshed - AltLd dnf - 16/Dec/12 with Ruslan

Ben Sharp - 2nd - 03/Dec/12 with Graeme Barr

machars - Lead O/S - 02/Dec/12 with Ben Sharp

amy - 2nd - 02/Dec/12 with will_he_fall

mhamiltonj - 2nd dog - Dec/12

Andy Moles - AltLd O/S - 04/Nov/12 with Tom Everett

tom.e - AltLd O/S - 04/Nov/12 with Andy Moles

AGoodi - 2nd - 04/Nov/12 with carlos

An awesome start to the season.
BallsOfSteel - AltLd O/S - 03/Nov/12 with IainMunro

Hidden - AltLd - 03/Nov/12

JRae - AltLd - 12/Feb/12 with M Watson

cant remember the last time i fought for anything this much. brilliant route
mwatson - AltLd O/S - 12/Feb/12 with johnny

One of the best Scottish routes I have ever done; very technical and there is no easy move - even the supposedly easiest last pitch is I estimate III on its own. Superb!
masa-alpin - Lead O/S - 11/Feb/12 with Simon Da

Tom Davy - AltLd O/S - 05/Feb/12

Jack Loftus - AltLd O/S - 04/Feb/12 with Nick

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/Feb/12

Matthew Robinson - 2nd - 02/Feb/12 with David

Dave Latimer - 2nd - Feb/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Jan/12

Cold and cloudy but ice free cracks. Lead the lot, brought a new meaning to exhausted.
Kayan - Lead rpt - 23/Jan/12 with Joe fraser

Just about in nick. Was really starting to hore up more and more throughout the day. Wind made it a little more exciting.
Rick Ashton - AltLd - 21/Jan/12 with Lee Harrison

Full-on blizzard conditions with snow being blown vertically up all the routes from the coire. Possibly the toughest conditions I've endured on a Scottish route. Opted to ab down from the top the route given the likely treacherous plateau winds but this in itself was tough as the rope got blown all over the place and kept knotting as a result. Thoroughly enjoyable day despite conditions and a classic route.
Big Lee - AltLd O/S - 21/Jan/12 with Richard Ashton

And jay
mikecollins - AltLd O/S - 14/Jan/12 with manmike

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/Jan/12

jason - AltLd O/S - 14/Jan/12 with mike, manmike

Alot of slushy ice in the cracks made protection hard to find and progress slow. But a nice climb!
Edvin m - Lead O/S - 08/Jan/12

Incredible climb, led second pitch from the first chockstones.
BorisVBlade - AltLd O/S - 07/Jan/12 with Sam Thompson

Amazing climb in good condition although there was no useable neve on the route, just lots of powder. It was a little bit challenging with a rucksack on!
benclimbing - Lead O/S - 06/Jan/12 with Dave Latimer

Hidden - 2nd β - Jan/12

Glad I was seconding, digging out the gear placements looked hard work.
Shaw Brown - 2nd - 11/Dec/11 with Loz

Neil Adams - AltLd O/S - 10/Dec/11 with Jim Higgins

jameshiggins - AltLd - 10/Dec/11 with Neil Adams

Rickrick - AltLd - Dec/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Mar/11

Hidden - AltLd - 28/Feb/11

Maybe near perfect conditions? Either way, a fantastic route, with some great climbing with solid neve and mainly clear cracks for gear. Led first two pitches, linked as one 25m pitch, then the final pitch which included the final few metres of the 'slit', before easier snow above.
Ken Applegate - AltLd - 27/Feb/11 with Alex Wheldon

climbed to the top of the slit in 3 pitches. Lead the second. Proper winter conditions. Inside of chimney thiny iced so had to stay on outside/edge. Hard
davefount - AltLd O/S - 22/Feb/11 with Will K

tjmillen - Lead - 22/Feb/11 with vicky

Hidden - 12/Feb/11

I fell off and left my axes on the second chock stone. Stopped just before the first chock stone. Felt atleast a full tech grade harder than the message did last week
Harry Holmes - Lead dnf - 09/Feb/11 with Fran Coles

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Feb/11

Hidden - Lead - Feb/11

Ondrej led first 2 pitches of slit (2nd is crux), I led 3rd pitch of the slit.
JdotP - AltLd O/S - 29/Jan/11 with Ondrej Mandula

HamishD - Lead O/S - 28/Jan/11 with John Brannock

Brannock - 2nd - 28/Jan/11

danJBA - AltLd O/S - 26/Jan/11 with James HoarMaster

Kayan - AltLd O/S - 26/Jan/11 with Dan Abbatt

Callum T - AltLd O/S - 23/Jan/11 with Graham McGrath, Tom Jenkins

Ginger McGrath - AltLd O/S - 23/Jan/11 with tom jenkins, callum taylor

Piers Harley - AltLd - 23/Jan/11 with Jeremy Windsor, Rob Marson

Hidden - Lead - 21/Jan/11

freudy_love - Lead O/S - 17/Jan/11 with Dave Douglas

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/Jan/11

Lead pitches 1 & 3. The abb point is earlier than expected, so I went past it by accident.
AndyL - AltLd O/S - 08/Jan/11 with Adam Russell

I lead the second pitch up the bottom half of the slit to the chock stone. We ended up backing off due to the quantity of ice covering all the cracks and preventing us from finding good gear.
R0bbie - AltLd dnf - 04/Jan/11 with Taba

fantastic adventure
Glyn - Lead O/S - 03/Jan/11 with Tom Skelhon, Chris Davis

team savage ascent!
tskelhon - 2nd O/S - 03/Jan/11 with glyn hudson, chris davis

Hidden - 2nd - 03/Jan/11

Hidden - 2nd - 01/Jan/11

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

PAJames - 2011

alkira - 2011

Lester - 2nd - 16/Dec/10 with Conor Gahan

Brilliant! Finished up the corner at the top which fely pretty stiff. I think the normal route just finishes up easy ground to the plateau.
MonkeyDawson - Lead O/S - 20/Nov/10 with Bob Foster

Iced to the max, technical, a great route!
simon_D - AltLd O/S - 14/Nov/10 with Alex

gregor - 14/Nov/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 07/Nov/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 21/Oct/10

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 21/Oct/10

michael83 - 2nd O/S - 21/Oct/10 with Mark, Scotty

first one for me
jim888 - 10/Oct/10

Craig Rayner - 2nd O/S - 09/Sep/10

Ian Jones - 2nd O/S - 09/Mar/10 with Dan Moore, jazzyjackson, Jason Moffat

Finally. Great to get this iconic Scottish mixed route ticked, led pitches 1 +2. Some grunting, claustrophobic shuffling and tenuous torques on rounded Cairngorms granite. Beaut high pressure day.
jazzyjackson - AltLd - 09/Mar/10 with Dan, Ian Jones

Hidden - AltLd - 09/Mar/10

Hidden - AltLd - 08/Mar/10

wicked squirmy chimney torquey fun! pretty much had the corrie to ourselves in perfect conditions
robertmichaeladams - AltLd - 23/Feb/10 with Joe

Pete Graham - AltLd O/S - 21/Feb/10 with tom ripley

Route definetly packs a wee punch. Sort of climbed both in and out the chimney.
Ally Baba - AltLd O/S - 20/Feb/10 with R. Mcmurry

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 20/Feb/10

twoplates - 2nd O/S - 15/Feb/10 with dave sharpe

Route covered in thick rime. Snowing all day. Wet and uncomfortable crawling almost gave me a hernia!
jamestheyip - AltLd O/S - 13/Feb/10 with Ben Taylor, Alejandro Garcia

el cholo - 2nd O/S - 13/Feb/10 with Ben Taylor, jamestheyip

Hidden - Lead - Feb/10

Alco-nomic - AltLd - Jan/10 with Andy Wardle

Hidden - 2010

Hidden - 2010

Aweosme. Great conditions once you have dug the gear out. The weather though! So so cold and windy and snow consantly blowin at you. Hardcore.
Ed Booth - AltLd O/S - 19/Dec/09

Most savage winter conditions I've ever climbed in! Amazing.
Adam Booth - AltLd O/S - 19/Dec/09 with Ed Booth

barni - AltLd O/S - 17/Dec/09 with Nic cot

Heavily rimed, lots of gear excavation.
mynyddresident - AltLd - 17/Dec/09 with barni

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Dec/09

Hidden - 2nd - 05/Dec/09

Hidden - 2nd - 28/Nov/09

First winter climb! So much fun, reli well protected, great line! Inspired to do it by a previous summer ascent
pete87abs - AltLd β - 14/Nov/09 with Richard Clarke

first winter route, amazing. will be back for more
rclarke - AltLd β - 14/Nov/09 with pete87abs

Led by Di Gilbert - this was done as a summer rock route and quite wet. Some is it S or VD??
LostinLondon - 2nd - 11/Jul/09

Hidden - Lead - Mar/09

Hidden - Lead - 27/Jan/09

inuklm - AltLd - 03/Jan/09 with Dave Gent

k2scott - 2009

Jamie Simpson - 2009

timmy-ts - 2009

windy100 - 2009

mike.moss - AltLd O/S - 2009

markjarvie - 2009 with andymain

Hidden - 27/Dec/08

Greg Boswell - AltLd O/S - 14/Dec/08 with James Dunn

Led 2nd (crux) pitch.
davidgent - AltLd O/S - Dec/08 with Kunal

Awesome climbing in full on conditions; gusty winds and a foot of powdery rime causing half blindness for most of the climb. Decent to finally get it done after years of wanting. Easier than expected.
andymoin - AltLd O/S - 23/Nov/08 with Mark Jarvie

Wet. Ran out of time.
kleky - 2nd dnf - 29/Jun/08 with MRT

s kennedy - AltLd β - 29/Mar/08 with tris fox, mark mosgrove

Very unpleasent conditions.
Smelly Fox - AltLd O/S - 29/Mar/08 with Stuart Kennedy, Mark Mosgrove

Hidden - 2nd β - 29/Mar/08

alaan - AltLd O/S - 17/Mar/08 with Aly

Did the 1st 2 pitches, ran out of time to do the last
mshorter - Lead O/S - 15/Mar/08 with lycra dave

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 13/Mar/08

jonnie3430 - AltLd O/S - 09/Mar/08 with Tom

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Mar/08

Woodiee - 2nd O/S - 11/Jan/08 with Si Litchfield

Chris(cface!) - 2008

Ace, first mixed 5. I lead the top half of the slit.
decs - AltLd - 03/Dec/07 with Sam and Korad

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 03/Dec/07

sgl - AltLd O/S - 03/Dec/07 with Konnie and Duncan

emotional. expected gear to be better on third pitch. intimidating. go and train at curbar for the offwidth. totally unique. Everyone should do this route.
david morse - AltLd O/S - Feb/07 with chris todd

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Jan/07

ian bryant - 2007

john irving - 2007

timmy-ts - 2007

Hidden - 2007

On second attempt
barney_edin - AltLd - 17/Dec/06 with Geoff M

after failing on prore finished up savage. with the conditions harder than i remembered.
French Erick - AltLd O/S - 09/Dec/06 with Andy Clark

Brown - AltLd O/S - 07/Dec/06 with John

akhughes - AltLd O/S - Nov/06

Hidden - 2nd - Nov/06

kato'sdad - 2nd - 26/Feb/06 with Giles Trussel

Hidden - 2nd - 19/Feb/06

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 11/Feb/06

oor wullie - Feb/06 with Neil Batchelor

Tom M Williams - 2nd - 28/Jan/06 with Andy Hobson

Hidden - Lead - 28/Jan/06

Mike lead the first half, to a big block I think. Then it got dark and we decided it was best to descend. Too hard for me to lead! :)
mrtom - 2nd dnf - 14/Jan/06 with Mike Moss

1st V. Lead both pitches up chimney.
andyinglis - AltLd O/S - 06/Jan/06 with scotty burnett

CurlyStevo - AltLd - 2006

Hidden - 2006

Hidden - 2006

Rob Pitt - 2006

Much harder with the rucksacks on, but Blonde was scared of losing his at the bottom!
Chad123 - AltLd - Dec/05 with Blonde Tom

Hidden - Mar/05

ian bryant - Lead O/S - Feb/05 with steve

Hidden - Feb/05

Dangerous Dave - Lead O/S - 2005 with Steve Addy

French Erick - Lead O/S - 19/Dec/04 with Nick Harris

Katex - AltLd O/S - Jul/04 with Simon Edwards

Marq - 2nd O/S - 30/Jan/04 with Martin P

Hidden - 2nd - 19/Feb/03

I did the main 'slit' pitch
nickdonohue - AltLd - 08/Feb/03 with Mark McCarthy

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Jan/03

Hidden - 2003

Boxing Day solo. Used back-rope with tied off overhand knots every 2-3 metres. Not recommended.
innes - Solo O/S - 26/Dec/02

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Feb/01

frost - AltLd - Feb/01 with J Hubbard

bandersnatch - AltLd - Feb/01 with Brian Hume

Hidden - 2001

Dave Kerr - Lead - 11/Nov/00 with Iain Sharpe

Hidden - 2nd - 2000

graeme gatherer - 2000

Lots of deep snow - took 7 & half hours to climb!!!!
Yourlead - 2nd - 13/Feb/99 with Graham Penny

Hidden - 2nd - 11/Feb/99

dangates - 1999 with Derek Bain

Richard White - AltLd O/S - 28/Dec/97

Marti999 - AltLd O/S - 28/Dec/97 with Rich White

tlr - AltLd - 03/Feb/96 with Chris Harvey

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1996

L,2,L,2.
charlesmfrench - AltLd O/S - 1995 with Julian Fisher

Dave Musgrove Jnr - AltLd - 30/Dec/94 with Muir Morton, Al Willoner

timmy-ts - AltLd - 1990

Hidden - AltLd - Jan/89

Paul Clarke - 1976 with FMC

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
hoppojoe7, Zippy1999, iksander, prcleary, chris p duck, johnny_black7, MSchobitz, patricia, ffdalton, LJC, Swampi, kenneM, LibS, JonmapDL, moorsy88, oliverk, Andy Syme, drunkpossum, gordigotama, Mr Wild, tlmarjot, PebblePusher, mattrm, jay.mac, marcushorgan, michael83, djking1983, Tom_Harding, Robo17, Gibson, Diggler, Dustin, geoff.comley, vincentvega, Richard Gilbert, Lou Kennedy, davie.p., andybuckley, Redjesta, tobydunford, joeydurkin, WilliamBurnside, Neil Mackenzie, saillord, PanzerHanzler, Karl Wooffindin, Mr.Billiams, Mark020, stokesrees, KeithW, dunx55, gartmorn, jazzyjackson

Voting
Total votes cast 156
hard VI0 of 55
VI1 of 55
easy VI1 of 55
hard V5 of 55
V44 of 55
easy V3 of 55
hard IV1 of 55
IV0 of 55
easy IV0 of 55
hard 70 of 51
70 of 51
easy 70 of 51
hard 64 of 51
638 of 51
easy 67 of 51
hard 52 of 51
50 of 51
easy 50 of 51
3 Stars45 of 50
2 Stars3 of 50
1 Star2 of 50
0 Stars0 of 50
Bag of .....0 of 50
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent

Soloed
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Unknown
Climbed
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean rpt
dogged
dnf