115m, 2 pitches. Follow the diagonal break up and left crossing a few problematic steps, to below the much-photographed corner and belay. Climb the wonderful corner, step left and head up and left up grooves to the summit and belay. Can be done in two full 60m pitches (but have heard of people doing it in four.)

Ticklists: Cairngorm Winter Climbs, 3 star Scottish winter.

Hidden 21/Nov AltLd
JackM92 01/Apr AltLd O/S

Led P1.

Rod Strachan 31/Mar AltLd
with Mike Brian
Hidden 15/Mar 2nd O/S
Hidden 15/Mar Lead O/S
mikeyjbs 15/Mar AltLd O/S
with Tony Seale
Dansteck 14/Mar 2nd
with Will Mannors
alex toomey 10/Mar AltLd O/S

fantastic final pitch, in great weather

AndyL 10/Mar AltLd
mzchambers 04/Mar AltLd O/S

Lead second.

with Nathan
Nath93 04/Mar AltLd O/S

A superb mixed climb, lead first and last pitches.

Hidden 27/Feb AltLd
Hidden 27/Feb AltLd
Scotsken 25/Feb AltLd O/S

Great wee route. Done in two long pitches.

with Jamie Evans
rob16 25/Feb AltLd
with Matt Brook
wi11 25/Feb 2nd rpt
with Tom G
aljones91 16/Feb AltLd

Did in 4 short pitches what an awesome route!!!! Lead pitches two and four continuous interest throughout. Powder and spindrift made it hard work but well worth it.

with Ben hester
Hidden 07/Feb AltLd
calumhicks 07/Feb AltLd O/S

Quality route like

with Adam Harris
michael83 06/Feb AltLd O/S

as expected, hooked out and in-situ gear all over the place. Enjoyed the climbing though. Three parties on the route at the same time with us stuck in the middle...

s kennedy 06/Feb Lead O/S
with michel mcghie
Hidden 05/Feb AltLd O/S
Tom Redmond 05/Feb AltLd O/S

led 1st pitch- nice moves early in the blocky chimney, but apart form the vertical swimming! josh led main section, really good climbing! then i finished pitch 3,

Hidden 05/Feb 2nd O/S
Andrew1 30/Jan AltLd
with Ben
Hidden 27/Jan Lead O/S
chris smith 27/Jan AltLd O/S
andybroadway 24/Jan 2nd
olekemi 24/Jan AltLd O/S

What a great route.

with Andy B, Mark G
gavmac 23/Jan AltLd

Lots of unhelpful powder which made things tricky. But great hooks and gear.

gurumed 17/Jan 2nd dog

Bit of a baptism of fire! Pinged off a couple of times at the start.

with Brian
Brian Pollock 17/Jan Lead O/S
with Gordon
Nick Wallis ??/2015 -
with Phil Bent
plain kitten ??/2015 -
alexm198 13/Dec/14 AltLd O/S

In two pitches. Lead P2, crux corner. Fairly steady, but quite awkward leaving the belay. Conditions are pretty good at the moment, just a bit powdery in places.

with Ross
Tim Rodgers 05/Dec/14 AltLd
Hidden 04/Dec/14 AltLd O/S
Andy Nisbet 03/Dec/14 -

good early season conditions

graeme gatherer ?/Dec/14 -
with Rab, Steve Elliot
PLM ?/Dec/14 AltLd O/S

Great day, had been up the night before (working?) then early start and back to Aberdeen for lairig Christmas meal, folk were jell. Great day.

with Ali
Hidden 28/Mar/14 -
aebewick 15/Jan/14 2nd
MonkeyDawson 12/Jan/14 AltLd
with James Gordon
adam clarke 12/Jan/14 AltLd O/S

Jim led P1, Adam led P2 to P4 (P3+P4 combined)

with James Hulme
jon22 11/Jan/14 AltLd
with john nesbit
Matt Harle 08/Jan/14 AltLd dnf
Richard Thombs 08/Jan/14 2nd rpt

Strong wind and windchill made this quite a challenge for me. The technicality was OK and the snow was good in many places, too soft for tools in others. Nearly blown off while doing the easy bit after the final crux!

with Mark Walker
edmitchell 04/Jan/14 AltLd O/S
with Phil Wake
AndyDWilson 04/Jan/14 2nd O/S
petereynolds 04/Jan/14 AltLd
with Stu
Hidden ?/Jan/14 Lead O/S
Si ??/2014 -
Alexclimbs ??/2014 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2014 -
GordonAinslie ??/2014 -
alasdair19 ??/2014 -
peter.herd 22/Dec/13 AltLd

In 2 pitches. Good route

with Uisdean Hawthorn
Uisdean hawthorn 22/Dec/13 AltLd O/S
wi11 19/Dec/13 AltLd O/S
freudy_love 25/Nov/13 Lead rpt

Great weather, great mixed climbing conditions, great day out.

with Squirrel
Mine2209 22/Nov/13 Lead O/S
with Rob Maxted
Hidden 10/Nov/13 AltLd O/S
ferdia 09/Nov/13 AltLd O/S


with Adam Russell
Hidden 09/Nov/13 AltLd rpt
graeme gatherer ?/Nov/13 -
Wojttek 13/Apr/13 AltLd O/S
with Danii
Hidden 17/Mar/13 2nd dog
Hidden 11/Mar/13 AltLd
masa-alpin 09/Mar/13 Lead dog

In very wintery conditions, where I had to excavate loads of powder snow in every move - hence hard! Took a very short fall a few metres below the crux due to carelessness - gutted... Sustained all the way and excellent climb!

with Lee P
jandyd05 23/Feb/13 2nd O/S

Good conditions though some cracks quite iced up. Found it hard due to lack of winter climbing this season but getting into it by the end

with Dave Kenyon
JRae 17/Feb/13 2nd
with Ben Silvestre, M Watson
Pete Rigby 16/Feb/13 AltLd O/S
with Merlin March, Kelli Roberts
kelliroberts3 16/Feb/13 AltLd O/S
with merlin march, Peter Rigby
Gumery 03/Feb/13 2nd O/S

Interesting with wrist leashes

Sam Simpson 03/Feb/13 Lead O/S

Fantastic route,great conditions, lots of gear lots of bomber hooks what more could you want?

PAJames 01/Feb/13 -


benclimbing 01/Feb/13 AltLd O/S

Brilliant climb. Bomber hooks where you need them and the route is in excellent condition at the moment. Great lead by Jamie B on the crux!

with Jamie Bankhead, graham boistelle
Jamie B 01/Feb/13 AltLd

Buttress well covered, but not too much clearing. Benchmark IV,6

with Ben Cooling, Graham Boistelle
Charlie Zephyr Booth ?/Feb/13 Lead O/S
with michael kirby
clams ?/Feb/13 AltLd

Led P1

with PR&K
grp 31/Jan/13 Lead O/S
Strachan 31/Jan/13 2nd dog

Had a couple of rests on the crux corner. Hard work but good fun.

Hidden 31/Jan/13 AltLd
PeteLoveless 26/Jan/13 2nd
with Jon McCune
Adam Booth 25/Jan/13 AltLd O/S


gowla 25/Jan/13 AltLd O/S
with adam booth
furbrow 16/Jan/13 AltLd

Good conditions,very cold but cracks mostly free of ice. Dave made a good job of the crux.

with Dave A
al99 15/Jan/13 AltLd O/S

Lots of powder to clear!

with Rob Patchett
Hidden 15/Jan/13 AltLd
ollyroberts 14/Jan/13 Lead O/S

All pitches!

piersnewton 14/Jan/13 2nd O/S
wheelsucker 13/Jan/13 Lead
Jay C 01/Jan/13 AltLd O/S

Decent conditions, led the crux pitch

with Mark C
Hidden 01/Jan/13 AltLd rpt
Hidden 01/Jan/13 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
gavmac 30/Dec/12 AltLd
with Steve Paget
Scott Rankin 27/Dec/12 AltLd O/S
joeydurkin 26/Dec/12 AltLd
with Jockey
abbeywall 26/Dec/12 Lead O/S

Led all 3 pitches

with K
centurion05 24/Dec/12 AltLd rpt
with Ben thynne
BenFitzG 20/Dec/12 Lead O/S
buzby78 18/Dec/12 AltLd O/S

Amazing weather and a quality route. Nice steep 2nd pitch!

with Glenn
rufus.duits 17/Dec/12 Solo

Excellent conditions

Hidden 17/Dec/12 2nd dog
Alpenglow 16/Dec/12 2nd

First winter climb. Understandably a few rests.

with Will, NUMC
willhawkins 16/Dec/12 Lead O/S
glenngordon 11/Dec/12 AltLd O/S
with kenny o'brien, neill busby
Andrew Sloan 10/Dec/12 AltLd

Led 2nd,3rd and 4th pitches. 3rd (crux) pitch has 10m of quite sustained technical 6 which I think warrants grade V.

with Ben Sharp
Ben Sharp 10/Dec/12 AltLd
Hidden 04/Nov/12 2nd
tom.e 03/Nov/12 AltLd O/S
with Calum
Hidden 27/Oct/12 AltLd O/S
Andrew Wilson 23/Apr/12 AltLd O/S

P1 and P3

with Chris Vernon
Big Lee 21/Apr/12 AltLd O/S

Turf unfrozen, soft snow & no ice. Meant to climb Pot of Gold but I continued too far up the message by mistake. Kirill led the crux, after which we veered right and climbed the top pitch of Pot of Gold.

Kirill 21/Apr/12 AltLd O/S

After the main corner went right and linked it with the last pitch of Pot of Gold.

GaryK 07/Apr/12 AltLd O/S

A good day out considering the weather was worryingly warm on the walk in.

with James Edwards
nia 11/Feb/12 AltLd O/S
with harry
J1PEF 02/Feb/12 2nd

Good hooks, found very top corner the hardest!

with Neil Mackay
mark88 31/Jan/12 Lead
with Jennie Crook
Jen Crook 31/Jan/12 2nd
with Mark Patterson
ksneds 28/Jan/12 AltLd

Brilliant route with nice hooks and gear where required.

with Jack
Somerset swede basher 28/Jan/12 Lead O/S
with Jon Miles
The Mountain Goat 28/Jan/12 2nd
Kayan 24/Jan/12 Lead O/S

Managed to outclimb the freezing level as it rose through the day, good nick. Quality corner pitch.

roberts1234567890 24/Jan/12 2nd
sneaks 23/Jan/12 AltLd O/S

J p1, Me p2 + p3. Nice enough route, powder on all areas, Nae neve, turf where found was frozen, found getting up the step before the main crux the hardest bit, windy as fook at summit belay, almost froze solid. unsure if p3 was correct though.. went left after crux over blocks toward a bay, pulled up overhanging block then traversed right on thin powder covered edge then up twin cracks on a slab to the top. fucking scary and sketchy in the wind!

with janey
Hidden 23/Jan/12 AltLd
dan doran 08/Jan/12 -
Neil D 06/Jan/12 Lead O/S
Betha. 06/Jan/12 2nd O/S
with Neil D
Lamb 05/Jan/12 AltLd

Lead crux corner which was bang tidy, well protected & good moves.

pete87abs ?/Jan/12 AltLd O/S
with Rosie Crossley, rob
Pay Attention 20/Dec/11 2nd
Misha 19/Dec/11 Lead O/S

Great route, with good sections on all four pitches. In good condition, except that the crux corner pitch wasn't as white as I'd have liked it to be (but still in decent winter nick with a lot of the cracks chocked with snow and ice, so not much hooking on bare rock). Unconsolidated snow added to the fun, particularly at the top of P3. Great belays and good gear throughout. Not sure it's really tech 6 as all the hooks were really good but plenty of 5. Hardest IV I've ever done, deserves a V really as it's quite sustained, though the gear is good and there are plenty of rests. Started a bit late, towards noon. Paul led the easy section of P1 and I took over after that. After the crux corner I went left for a bit, then up and right and finished up Pot of Gold but don't think it made much difference. Got to a belay point 20 metres of easy ground away from the top just as it was getting dark. Paul took over two hours to second due to a combination of not being able to communicate (had radios but didn't bother getting them out, should have done!), having a poor head torch and finding it quite tough. Dropped down the Headwall to escape the wind and walked out in fresh snow, eventually picking up the track. Back at the car park around 9.30pm.

with Paul
luckyjim 18/Dec/11 AltLd
with D Helm
freudy_love 17/Dec/11 AltLd rpt

A lot trickier than last time, quite a bit of unconsolidated snow and not as much helpful ice in the back of the corners. That, plus it seemed I was climbing like a donkey :D Good lead by Dave up the main corner.

with Dave Douglas
Dave Douglas 17/Dec/11 AltLd O/S

Felt hard due to covering of snow the night before. My first tech 6 lead! I'll be a proper winter climber before long.

Ken Applegate 12/Dec/11 AltLd

Led the crux corner and upper corner. Great route, with bomber gear and hooks. Crux was good fun!

Hannah Evans 12/Dec/11 AltLd
Tom Livingstone 11/Dec/11 AltLd O/S
samrad 10/Dec/11 AltLd O/S

did in 3 pitches. led 1 and 3.

with tom livingstone
Hidden 10/Dec/11 AltLd O/S
geoff.comley 10/Dec/11 Lead O/S

Absolutely mobbed as usual on a Saturday, near enough only route that was free! Still nice climbing with some bullet hard ice.

Mowglee 10/Dec/11 AltLd O/S
with Conor
Hidden 09/Dec/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Dec/11 AltLd
Hidden 07/Dec/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 04/Dec/11 AltLd
ClimberMH 04/Dec/11 AltLd O/S
with Jacob Davies
Hidden 04/Dec/11 AltLd
Hidden ?/Dec/11 AltLd
jamesturnbull ?/Dec/11 AltLd
with aiden
Natalie feather ?/Nov/11 AltLd
BallsOfSteel 20/Oct/11 AltLd

settling a 3 year old grudge. good start to the season.

Hidden 20/Oct/11 AltLd
Hidden ?/Mar/11 AltLd
Jimmy1976 27/Feb/11 2nd O/S

'ard, but well protected.

DPaul 27/Feb/11 Lead O/S

Sustained,very good value.

tjmillen 12/Feb/11 Lead
with vicky
mikemartin 11/Feb/11 AltLd
Captain Solo 11/Feb/11 AltLd

Finally got round to doing this route to see what all the fuss was about. Good neve on ledges and even ice at the back of the crux corner which Mike led. I think climbing this route in powder and frozen gravel would be my idea of hell, great line though.

with Mike
Hidden 10/Feb/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Feb/11 Lead
rcammack 30/Jan/11 AltLd O/S
Harry Holmes 30/Jan/11 AltLd O/S

lead pitches 1 and 3. corner pitch was really nice, bomber hooks all the way. felt really secure too

Hidden 30/Jan/11 2nd O/S
Petarghh 08/Jan/11 AltLd O/S


Jack Loftus 08/Jan/11 AltLd O/S

Lead the 3 main pitchs.

Hidden 05/Jan/11 2nd
Martin Haworth 03/Jan/11 Lead O/S
with richard white
Hidden 03/Jan/11 2nd dog
stevebarratt 03/Jan/11 Lead O/S
sebrider 02/Jan/11 AltLd

Great nick, lovely route :)

with Alex
Hidden ??/2011 -
adie84 ??/2011 -
alkira ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
David Sherratt ??/2011 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Dec/10 2nd
Hidden 11/Dec/10 -
Hidden 23/Nov/10 AltLd O/S
Daniel Sutherland 22/Nov/10 AltLd O/S

Lead 1st Pitch, Fantastic

with Pat
jfmchivall 21/Nov/10 AltLd O/S

Great climb, well protected. Snow not quite consolidated, so pulling out of the crux groove was interesting.

with Iain Smith
Inti 21/Nov/10 AltLd
with John Chivall
t_stork 20/Nov/10 AltLd
with Steve Walls
Hidden 20/Nov/10 AltLd
robertmichaeladams 20/Nov/10 AltLd

good fun

with Lawrence
wence 20/Nov/10 AltLd dog

One slip low down.

with Rob
Pete Graham 14/Nov/10 AltLd O/S
with tom, James Monypenny
barni 14/Nov/10 2nd
with Rob
Hidden 13/Nov/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 13/Nov/10 AltLd
Hidden 10/Nov/10 AltLd O/S
lachlan ?/Nov/10 AltLd
Daniel Sutherland 24/Oct/10 2nd dnf

A dropped Belay plate, Big Leader Fall. Decided enough was enough and Abbed off from the crux pitch, The route was in great nick though!

with Peter
simon_D 24/Oct/10 AltLd O/S

could do with a wee bit more consolidation freezing but in nick jus now, the top corner is a belter!

with Tom
Hidden 24/Oct/10 AltLd O/S
jonnie3430 20/Oct/10 AltLd O/S
with Emily, Sian
SianR 20/Oct/10 2nd
with Jonnie and Emily
Hidden 20/Oct/10 AltLd
freudy_love 17/Mar/10 Lead O/S

Lovely day but bit warm and mushy. Everything dripping, water running down behind the ice and were getting bombed on all day long!! 2 good interesting tricky mixed corner pitches, both excellently protected.

with Stewart Munro
telemarker 17/Mar/10 2nd dog

Struggled up the route in not the best conditions, luckily the weather was good.

gaizka 23/Feb/10 2nd
with Dave
robertmichaeladams 14/Feb/10 AltLd
with Tom
tomdude 14/Feb/10 AltLd

lots of snow! warm too. brilliant route

with rob
Hidden 08/Feb/10 AltLd
Hidden 07/Feb/10 AltLd O/S
Ally Baba 07/Feb/10 AltLd O/S

a lot of snow about!!

with R. Mcmurry
Hidden 07/Feb/10 AltLd O/S
John Pickles 07/Feb/10 AltLd O/S
Ginger McGrath 06/Feb/10 AltLd dnf

tried it under alot of rime and snow. fell on the last pitch after getting pumped clearing snow for gear. a hex and peg held myt fall but we decided to call it a day and abbed off

Callum T 06/Feb/10 AltLd dnf

Interesting day was had by all... Bit more air time than intended for both of us and we abbed off as the pull to the ceilidh was stronger than the pull to the plateau. Will definitely go back for another try.

Hidden 27/Jan/10 2nd
Tile Diver ??/2010 AltLd O/S

Bloody tough climbing!!

with Rossi
Hidden ??/2010 AltLd
newtonmore ??/2010 -
Chad123 20/Dec/09 AltLd rpt

Very cold and super icy which made the route easier and a bit bolder especially at the top....2 hours to do the route then 5 hours to drive back to Edinburgh on a snowy A9!!

with Steve and Humble
D.Russell 18/Dec/09 AltLd O/S
with Adam
Hidden 18/Dec/09 AltLd O/S
andymoin 13/Dec/09 AltLd O/S

Very easy nick, pre made ice hooks all the way! Great climbing tho, will be back to do it in a blizzard and a foot of powder rime.

with Niel Silver
geoff.comley 12/Dec/09 2nd O/S

First steep mixed climb, another quality day in the Norries

Pete Main 12/Dec/09 AltLd O/S

Also Sandy Simpson joined us.

with Rab
rob1 12/Dec/09 AltLd
Greg Boswell 07/Dec/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 02/Dec/09 AltLd rpt
lachlan 02/Dec/09 -
with James MacLeod
Lawrie Brand 29/Nov/09 2nd O/S

An interesting introduction to steep mixed climbing, with interesting weather to match

with Al Goodridge
Hidden 28/Nov/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 28/Nov/09 AltLd O/S
Alco-nomic ?/Nov/09 AltLd

great finish

with Andy Wardle
Hidden ?/Nov/09 AltLd O/S
Chad123 29/Mar/09 Lead O/S

Great fun, lead all pitches (Mallards 3rd winter route!) - lots of interest on all pitches especially the crux corner. Windy on the plateau!

with Jo
Hidden 06/Mar/09 AltLd
Hidden ?/Mar/09 AltLd
Hidden 24/Jan/09 Lead
Ste Ridd 24/Jan/09 2nd dnf

Crux-get high up in the corner then reach up high on left-hand wall. Right hand wall crack also possible.

Hidden 23/Jan/09 Lead dnf
Neilm18 23/Jan/09 2nd dnf
markjarvie ??/2009 -
with scott becker
gaz.marshall 14/Dec/08 AltLd O/S
with Steve H
mgeek ?/Dec/08 AltLd O/S

Stated up Melting put but took longer than expected, so finnished up the 2nd and 3rd pitches of Message!

with Rob Aide
jazzyjackson 01/Nov/08 AltLd

hooking and torquing a plenty. Some wild moves but thankfully great gear throughout. Brilliant.

with Jimbob
French Erick 28/Oct/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden 26/Mar/08 AltLd
mikecopp 26/Mar/08 AltLd
with Dan Currie
breithorn4164 16/Mar/08 AltLd O/S

Superb torque fest

with Jackson
Matthallinan 11/Mar/08 AltLd
with Jon Winter
Hidden ?/Jan/08 AltLd dog
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 -
peebles boy ??/2008 2nd
Hidden ??/2008 AltLd
Fultonius 30/Dec/07 AltLd
James W ?/Dec/07 -

best mised route ive done in scotland, climbing at my limit after 3 yrs out

with graeme
peterp ?/Dec/07 AltLd
with Sully
Brown 25/Nov/07 AltLd dnf

Backed off due to one of party unable to follow

with Andy Hobbs
Jim Haydock 09/Mar/07 2nd
with Stuart Mc aleese
dave_tomlin 18/Feb/07 2nd

awsome route, though was a little bare which made it destinctly tricky

with Tom Evans
barney_edin 05/Feb/07 AltLd
with Adam H
akhughes ?/Feb/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
sgl 22/Nov/06 Lead O/S
with henry
Jim Haydock 09/Mar/06 2nd
with G. Ettle & Owen Samuels
Hidden ?/Mar/06 2nd O/S
Hidden 19/Feb/06 2nd O/S
Neil Adams ??/2006 AltLd O/S
Smelly Fox 20/Feb/05 AltLd O/S
with Ian Bryant
andyinglis ??/2005 AltLd O/S
with neil adams
Dangerous Dave ??/2005 Lead O/S
ruaridhmac 21/Nov/04 AltLd

Very poor, no ice!

with Dave Cowan
whispering nic ?/Nov/04 AltLd
with Tweedley
Jamie Simpson ??/2004 AltLd O/S

Good conditions.

with Andy Munro
Hidden 28/Dec/03 Lead dnf
Hidden ??/2003 -
mikeyjbs 29/Dec/02 2nd dog
with will woodhead
towdman 18/Dec/02 AltLd O/S
DerwentDiluted ?/Jan/02 2nd
with Chris Pearson
frost ?/Feb/01 -
Yourlead 19/Jan/01 2nd
with Graham Penny
Hidden 04/Nov/00 AltLd
Dave Kerr 27/Dec/99 Lead
with Iain Sharpe
NeilGriffiths 04/Dec/99 -
with James, Simon
dangates 08/Jan/99 AltLd

MRT call out!

with Alison Davey/ Pete Watson
Hidden 17/Jan/98 AltLd O/S
Lone Rider ??/1998 AltLd
innes ??/1998 AltLd O/S
Yourlead 28/Dec/97 2nd dnf

1st oitch only then up Hybrid?

with Graham Penny
tlr 14/Feb/97 AltLd
with Pete D
TobyA 02/Jan/97 AltLd O/S

Heavy conditions. Crazy weather. Great Stuff.

with Ed
Hidden ??/1997 AltLd
Hidden ?/Feb/94 -
pingora 12/Dec/93 AltLd O/S
with Blaggers
TheAndyBarker ?/Jan/93 AltLd
Hidden ?/Dec/89 AltLd
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
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High V
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Votes cast 68
High 7
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High 5
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Votes cast 68
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Style of ascent
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