380m, 12 pitches. At last an easy route, thanks to Raoul. It basically follows the edge of the buttress right of Autoroute Blanche. To get to the start, follow the Autoroute Blanche approach but instead of turning left to the foot of this route, continue up the main Giétroz footpath (this official footpath now follows the climbers' footpath almost to the start of Autoroute as it became more defined than the path's original steep route!) for another 50 or so metres. Keep looking on your left and you'll see reddy/orange spray painted spots and the start of the route just next to the path (the original first pitch, which is now pitch three, is to be found some five minutes further up the path and is useful to bypass slow parties occupying the first two pitches). The second part of the route is reached by a short walk up towards the Gorge secteur of Giétroz.



An amended list of pitch grades looks like this: L1 - 5c, L2 - 5c+, L3 - 5a, L4 - 5c+, L5 - 5b, L6 - 5b, L7 - 5c, L8 - 5b, L9 - 5b, L10 - 6a+, L11 - 5b, L12 - 5c. Take a 50m rope and 12 quickdraws.

Raoul Crettenand Jun/2012


ClimberDateStyle
OutdoorGirl 30/Dec/15 AltLd

Led 1st pitch (jack did the rest!)

with Jack
romatou18 27/Sep/15 2nd O/S

A fairly long route with 2 pitches requiring moves on thin footholds and couple of bouldery moves. A higher 6a+. Very pleasant. Alpine grade: TD- I P1/E2 6a+>5c Link to camptocamp.org with photos and video: http://www.camptocamp.org/outings/683328/fr/chatelard-gietroz-cacao-girls

with Kim Bodin, Stephane Lacourt
ray.allwood 14/Sep/15 2nd O/S

With Mark Cordingley. Only first 9 pitches.

with Andy Perkins (Guide)
James W 17/Aug/15 Lead
mchardski 02/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

Great route very varied with slabs, cracks, step outs etc. The 6a pitch near the top is only a few meters of 6a, but the moves are close to the floor.

with Nico
Hidden 19/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 08/Jun/15 Lead rpt
Hidden ?/Jun/15 AltLd
Rob Royle 20/Sep/14 Lead

Only up to pitch 5 then abseiled off as rain stopped play.....! Really good route on some great rock!!

with Steph
Hidden 17/Sep/14 -
Hidden 22/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
BoulderyDave 18/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 18/Jul/14 -
coachmacca 23/Jun/14 2nd

Only first 2 pitches due to thunder/impending rain - seconded to guide.

Hidden ?/Jul/13 AltLd
James Thacker 27/Jun/13 AltLd
cayteye 13/Jun/13 AltLd
Alan James - UKC and UKH 13/Jun/13 AltLd
DigitalSteak 08/Jun/13 AltLd

Led odd number pitches. Last 4 are the crux and best part of the whole route - don't cut off early!

Hidden ?/Jun/13 2nd
jon 19/Oct/12 AltLd
with H
the ant hill mob 14/Aug/12 2nd

seconded to eric for the first 6 pitches, then left down path due to being tired and really too hot.

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