|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
Great climb. Good conditions.
Lovely little climb. Nicely sustained but never too hard. Maybe a bit short on good snow/ ice at the moment.
Led the last pitch
|Matt Harmon||21/Feb||AltLd O/S||
led P2 and the top pitch after the fingers
Lewis Parsons, Alex McCann
Not under the best winter conditions, a bit bare but axes and crampons were still needed none the less, Harry's first winter route and a great effort on the top crux headwall by him! Number of large worryingly loose blocks just below the fingers
Led 1st, 3rd and last pitch.
Alpine conditions, snow and dry rock. Took the crux wall direct.
|Euan Todd||07/Feb||AltLd O/S||
Had a bit of an epic after starting late, topped out in the dark and tried to find our way out in thick cloud with one headtorch between us. Eventually made it down after going past Coire an Lochain! The climb was great, really enjoyed it! I led P1 and P3.
espen led through the fingers
|Tom Redmond||06/Feb||AltLd O/S||
led the best part of the route- the groove pitch and the fingers. really good climbing. the ridge was covered in huge rime icicles, made for some interesting climbing! watch out for large loose blocks 10m below the fingers.
Tom Redmond, Josh Willet
Just epic. Wild moves bridging on the fingers in the wind!!!
Started too far up Red Gully, so climbed a pitch to gain the ridge below the fingers - felt harder than the crux above. We call it the "Nosebleed Variation" for the copious amounts of blood Max left in the (now redder) Red Gully. Lead (both) crux(es).
Amazing climb. Led pitches 1, 3, 4. Did IV, 5 direct finish
In 4 pitches, with direct finish. Led p2
Sadistically cold but what a route!
|John McKenna||27/Dec/14||AltLd O/S|
|joe king||22/Mar/14||AltLd O/S||
12 years later and still as good.
No sleep, and straight up the mountain with Kenny. Great Day. Difficult section around the finger
With Andy H
quality improved on every pitch! top pitch beautiful!!
Led all pitches. First pitch was buried yeilding one piece of gear, upper pitches were in brilliant nick. Partner used the gully on the left to avoid the crux wall.
Did not do the last short wall (just after the fingers) and instead went left due to the intense wind and the sun had just set and the light was very low.
Great route in good condition for the time of year! The slab was rather lean up to the base of the rib, flake pitch was super cool and fingers were airy! Warning, top of the groove beneath the ridge leading to the fingers there was a large loose block, could be been as it wasn't frozen enough as it was early.
In powdery condition (beginning of November!). I lead P1, 3, 4, and Kyle did P2. In the final (direct) wall, the pros were hard to place, and worse all the runners fell out by the time I was high, which made the experience rather spicy. Brilliant route! Sustained for both interestingness and difficulty.
|Mr. K||09/Nov/13||AltLd O/S|
|Sam Simpson||04/Nov/13||AltLd O/S||
As Hannah says
Might be the last one of the season?
|Timothy Miller||?/Apr/13||2nd O/S|
Horrible weather but great fun and great route.
|DaveJ 11||26/Feb/13||2nd O/S|
Led 2 and 4
Done before so let Mark have the fun.
Stunning route in amazing weather. Learned some interesting new Polish words from Andzrej while he heroically tackled the headwall.
|andrzej kierzek||18/Feb/13||Lead β||
Lead all the pitches. Had epic on head wall, but did it without a fall. Did it in Feb last year with big boots on wet rock as summer D, hence "clean with beta" style of ascent. Perfect winter conditions this year!
david wall, Peter Neden
variation to help Darren followed by an escape up chossy snowslopes to the right and a 19 minute run down the goat track and back to the car park to pick people up in the bus.
A fantastic route in brilliant conditions!
Becky Lee, Martin Smith
Good route as always, great nick today
Fantastic day out and awesome climb, although lots of digging for gear required!
Great day out. Climbing conditions were quite good but quite a lot of powder. Lead pitches 1, 3 and 5. True classic climb!!
Rosie Goolden, Tim Miller
|Charlie Zephyr Booth||?/Feb/13||Lead O/S||
|Steven Andrews||26/Jan/13||AltLd O/S||
top two pitches are fantastic and threading the fingers a great ending!
Hands and knees probably more use than axes. First pitch was interesting!
Finished in the dark!! ooops!!
|Jay C||29/Dec/12||AltLd O/S||
Great route, led the crux
finnaly finnished the route, 3rd time lucky, stunning weather and great conditions, although had to dig through 1ft thick rime to find belays and pro making the route feel harder than last time.
Started a bit too far left, ended too far right. All round cock-up. I lead P1, Ben lead a pitch of FR Direct, Kip lead a pitch of Red Gully.
|peter fetlar||11/Dec/12||AltLd O/S||
Crag was plastered with this thick useless shit that took ages to clear to get at the features. Went a bit skiwif on the first pitch (followed some insitu gear steeply into a bay, that continued to sketchy slabs) so bailed on that and went out left. Top pitches spectacular - glorious weather!
2nd grade IV, great route
P1 and 3. first route of the season. good to get back into the swing of things.
Marcus 1st and 3rd sections, I led the middle.
A good amount of snow and ice but melting fast. The wind increased as we ascended so the fingers were fun. The final headwall was excellent, looks blank but enough there when you get on it. Felt pretty comfortable with the climbing but struggled with some of the high step-ups due to my lack of flexibility.
|Tomek S||20/May/12||AltLd O/S|
very dry tool:)
|Chris Ellyatt||12/May/12||AltLd O/S||
Great day out. First grade IV.
|Kyle Rance||12/Feb/12||Lead dnf||
Lead the first two pitches, was lovely, Alissa's first winter and couldn't do the mixed sections so chose to back off so not to freak her out. Really need to come complete this at some point.
|The Biochemist||12/Feb/12||2nd dnf|
great fun, bivvied in aviemore then managed to be first team on this. lead all pitches, including tech 5 bit at the top.
First IV :D, fun route, did p2 and 4. Very powdery, with good turf and hooks
Nice route, but snow not consolidated at all.
Snow was quite unconsolidated, so used rock hooks near enough all the way. Great route, and the top pitch (the steep wall beyond the fingers) is very good value!
John led. Awesome climbing throughout. First pitch (traverse) was very tenuous. First IV and loving it.
|John Pickles||02/Feb/12||Lead rpt||
Owen John, Lewis Thompson
lead all 4 pitches, the middle 2 twice. had to back off about 3 meters short of the top on the final pitch due to storm force winds,
Lead P1 and P3. Didnt do top pitch as it was getting late and tom forgot his torch!
|The Big Sender||30/Dec/11||AltLd||
bailed from the top pitch when it got dark and weather turned
An outstanding line! Great fun climbing around the fingers and then a bit of technical work getting up a short cracked wall before topping out.
Kilian, Dave Gent
Very strong wind
|Dave Latimer||20/Dec/11||AltLd O/S|
Excellent route, first time on a IV, some great leading by Rob in pretty full on conditions
Simply fantastic. Lead 3rd pitch.
Nice climb, a bit windy on the ridge!
Was nice to get on the proper route after Euan got halfway up the Direct...
All the snow and ice melting fast. Not much fun. Climbed badly.
Led P1 and P3. Top pitch was quite black, but quite a lot of iced up cracks.
|Harry Holmes||29/Jan/11||Solo O/S|
phil gibb, Garry Smith
Did in 3 pitches. Led 1st and 3rd pitch
Garry Smith, Mike Gray
|Adam Booth||22/Jan/11||AltLd O/S|
Tom Skelhon, Chris Davis
glyn hudson, chris davis
|Neil D||05/Jan/11||Lead O/S|
Fiona, Jonny Bull
kitty duncan, Steve Hillier
|David Sherratt||??/2011||Lead O/S|
Ross I Jones
|Chris L Hill||21/Nov/10||Lead O/S||
EPIC; claire dropped and lost her belay device before starting pitch 2.bit thin in places and a fair amount loose unusable snow.lucky to get off intact.
Merlin P1 and P3, Me P2 and P4
Slow under powder with some nice gnarly bits.
Windy. We finished in the dark due to late start.
Forgot the guidebook and got lured onto the direct by an in situ peg, backed off after some hard climbing.
|Smelly Fox||07/Nov/10||AltLd O/S||
Nice and snowy, when everything else in the coire was bare and thin.
good fun finish through the fingers
Sunny and dry. Did half of the route in bare hands!
Superb route. Very well protected and the exit was great fun.
|el cholo||07/Mar/10||AltLd O/S|
Fantastic day out! Leading through the fingers and up the iced wall beyond was absolutely brilliant.
|Kyle Rance||23/Feb/10||2nd O/S||
james swann, clare-dev
Lots of fun. Got a bit scared by the exposure stepping past the finger.
Lead first pitch and final pitch over pinnacles and top wall.
Great route in very snowy condition
This route is well good!
Chris Harling, Mark Davies
John Pickles, Chris Harling
Climbed in tricky powder snow very slow party in front
Lots of ice - crux totally buried!
Second Scottish winter climb. Gear very hard to find as cracks iced up / buried, so quite bold (even on P3, which is meant to have good gear). Led P1 and P3.
Simon from Leeds
|joe larner||09/Dec/09||AltLd rpt|
marek, Andy Wardle
Led pitches 1-3, particularly liked the 3rd. Lots of snow, no ice. Bailed up Broken Gully as weather was crapping out.
Excellent route with plenty of interest, and gets better as it gets higher - a tricky move past the fingers and a lovely direct move to finish. Made extra exciting by the wild, windy weather!
|Lawrie Brand||28/Nov/09||2nd O/S||
Direct Finnish (tec 5). Really enjoyable second route except for the thawing ice/snow around me!
Skipped the fingers (more's the pity), since Steve was dying!
|Andy Moles||14/Jan/09||AltLd O/S||
Led pitches 2 and 4, finishing direct.
led pitches 1 and 3
Nikki and Flash
|Mark Walter||?/Dec/08||AltLd dnf||
most ridiculous muck up ever, my helmet blew away on the first pitch
good interesting climbing throughout
|joe larner||01/Nov/08||AltLd O/S||
A good early start to the winter season! Snow down to the A9 (if I remember rightly). Joe led crux headwall, I led the fingers.
With direct finish.
alex and ian munro
Early season mixed conditions. Torquing a plenty and no ice. Blue sky day. More please.
Covered in powder and rime so took a while, blizzard didn't help any either. No much consolidated snow on the bottom, but turf was good on the second pitch.
|Neil Mackenzie||09/Dec/07||AltLd O/S||
Awesome route! feelin a little ill, the knarly weather didnt help but still loved it! fingers felt a bit more tenuous than in summer!
Wild and wintery, excellent!!
|dan cowley||08/Mar/07||AltLd O/S||
Chris Wall, Tom Powell
peter bosewll (dad)
|Mr Powly||?/Feb/07||AltLd O/S||
Tom Everett, Chris Wall
Tom E, and Tom P
|Southern Mark Smith||??/2007||-|
Led pitches 2 and 4 (the fingers). Mind the ropedrag on the last pitch.
G. Ettle & Owen Samuels
climbed 3 times
|Sandy P||?/Jan/06||AltLd O/S||
Went a bit off route in the white-out.
Worst hot-aches ever!
|My Gravity||24/Jan/05||AltLd O/S||
Did this as a rock route as all the ice had melted a few days prior to our arrival - bah! Goes at VDiff, but still a pleasant excursion.
|Dangerous Dave||??/2005||Lead O/S|
|Jamie Simpson||??/2004||AltLd O/S||
First time unconsolidated snow, second time buried in powder, both really fantastic days.
4hrs of shovelling snow.
Steve Wells, Erick Baillot
|French Erick||16/Nov/03||AltLd O/S|
pete and hugh
|John Pickles||?/Feb/01||AltLd O/S||
With Si Taylor
S Raw, J Turner